BobVila.com

Hi Jackie,

If you're being advised that the 3/4" flooring is 'not good' for your part of the country, it's probably true. I know the FL is humid a great deal BUT if your home has a dehumidifier on your HVAC system, then obviously you can control the humidity. With that, you should reask your question: solid flooring vs. engineered flooring ...

Now, Pergo flooring is a disposable floor. When it's ruined, you throw it away. It's a laminated plastic; it's NOT wood. Since I have a bias towards solid wood, Pergo is FAR from receiving a recommendation from me, especially in your particular situation.

Engineered flooring comes in MANY varieties. There is refinishable and non-refinishable Engineered flooring. There is Engineered flooring that has 'soft' vs. 'hard' wood as its substrates. There are floating vs. non-floating floors. You need to ask questions as to how one floor 'performs' vs. another.

RE: Alumide - It's a type of finish that's supposedly VERY hard vs. standard poly, and it comes w/something like a 25 year warranty. I don't know what it would take to 'remove' that type of hard finish if your particular flooring needs to be refinished (assuming you buy a floor that CAN be refinished.) When it comes to refinishing a standard, poly floor, the sanders work fairly hard as it is. To add a VERY hard finish (when it comes time to remove it to refinish the wood floor), I suspect it will work all the harder. Hence, the refinishing cost would be higher. I'm not trying to deter you from this but I'd ask a few Retailers about refinishing (if it's what you're interested in doing.) H-T uses it. I dont' know of any other Mfgr. that does. It's a fairly new technology so, at least, ask questions AND be skeptical.

Now, since you asked, I'll give you my suggestion for your particular. The bedrooms (in my home) aren't used that much. Our 5 year old daughter doesn't really play in hers. In short, they're used for sleeping and changing clothes in. WITH THAT, there isn't much 'floor activity' in them. What this translates to, for you, is I think you're fine with installing an Engineered floor w/a traditional poly finish. (I'm assuming your bedrooms are on a 2nd floor; NOT on concrete as in a Ranch House. I would answer differently if you were on concrete.) I'd get a floor that can be refinished 2-3 times. You should get one that can be nailed or stapled; not glued. Stay away from floating floors because they have a 'hollow' sound in them AND they're annoying to hear downstairs. Be SURE you're installing over a plywood substrate. You can buy an Engineered floor that uses soft woods underneath. You DON'T need one that uses TRUE solid woods. (Soft woods will save you $$$ in this case.)

One VERY important thing I suggest you do is this: Get a copy of the Warranty AND the Installation Instructions even if you're NOT installing it yourself. Reading this info BEFORE you even buy the material will help you understand if the flooring is 'appropriate' for your particular situation. If the Retailer doesn't have this info, ctc. the Mfgr's. WEB Site, e-mail them, or call if necessary. Just be SURE you get the paperwork that applies to your situation. (You can always 'compare' it to what comes w/the material once you buy it, so SAVE it.)

I like Bruce for 3/4" solid flooring. Price and quality are just fine. Not that there's anything wrong w/ H-T's solid wood. As for Engineered flooring, if H-T has what you want, just get it. If Bruce has what you want, just get it from them. They're all comparable.

Well, I've said a lot. For now, good luck! My best to ya and hope this helps.

Jay J -Moderator