Never try and fit a non-coped wood finish crown it will end up looking like production work. I would agree for mdf paint finish you could miter & glue then fill... I also wouldn't bother adding a fence you'd be better off cutting on flat if your saw isn't the right size. Or going to rent a saw if you can just cut the scarf on flat with a bevel... Also you won't want to cut a scarf at the 31 on angle, it will cross the stud. I used to do that when I was doing production work 25 years ago too.. you want the 45 for more glue area, but more importantly if the joint is off slightly a 45 won't show, and when the piece shrinks it won't seperate but slide on the joint and keep the look a year down the road when the installer is long gone, also if you cut the scarf at a 45 flat (against the fence or on the table) you'll have a wider surface and a straight cut over the stud for nailing. Other than that some great tips... except snapping in two ends coped, you'll want to work around the room, from straight cuts to coped corners.. it's easier to keep the crown at the proper spring angle and deal with the irregularities you'll inevitably find in the ceiling plane... use a short crown for the coped corners then go back once you have that next run up.. also if it's a new home with trusses you'll want to use the backer as in the tutorial. |
Moderated by Mark Hammond 
