wicked simple.....cut the blanks 3/16 thick 2" long double stick them to a piece of mdf joint and cut till thet are 1 3/4 run them over the box bit to gry the profile... be careful taking them off the mdf then glue 2 sides .after the glue dries flush them up and apply the other 2 sides...then flush those as well ....there is no mitre...unless you want to make yourself mental....if so let me know how you make out...

Tommy, doing the applied foot your way, is that the way it would have of been done? I was thinking of mitering mine, but decided against it because I figured you where doing it the way it would have of been done back in the day?

Justin

to be honest i really dont know....but i was taught to do it this way so ...i did......but i think it is more typical....you will never see the difference from a couple of feet away....you gotta remember too...that this stuff was pumped out in big shops....so i dont think they would have spent allot of time on mitering feet .....they would spend time on more important elements of the entire project...visually speaking

Also, since you are looking at long grain on all of the pieces, they blend together. There's no end grain to hide.

Eli

NBSS Student

I'm going to make the applied leg like you did by gluing on parts and shaping the parts, but if one wanted to I came up with a solution. At the point where the applied foot intersects the tapered leg stock I could leave the leg untapered on all four sides and miter the moulding and apply it to stock that is square. That would avoid the compound angle altogether.

You bring up a good point about the mass-production. Well, its done now. Maybe on the next one I will play with mitering it. Back to work.

Justin

The problem I see with leaving a flat, is that the inside tapered leg is cut on the saw. So leaving the flat is going to be kind of difficult. You'd have to make a stop cut and then cut the flat with a different setup. It would be easier to leave a flat if we were flush cutting the leg, but then the router wouldn't leave a sharp corner at the top of the flat.

I might consider mitering only the outside corner. This way, the miter is on the square faces and none of the joints show. Apply the inside pieces first, then flush them to the sides. Mitre the two outside pieces leaving them too wide. Then, flush their edges.

Eli

NBSS Student

The point about no end grain was helpful. I do a lot of trimwork and couldn't imagine moulding running long grain vertically until you mentioned it. Sure made making the applied foot easier.

Well theres my problem, I missed that part about doing the edge detail on the end grain. Now you see why I wanted to miter mine. Hum, now do I take off the applied foot to fix it and make it right?

Justin

well it depends on your time.....if you are done with making the banding and have made the cuff for your strung leg already....you may want to change the foot...or not ...this is a learning tool.....you can keep moving ......get the cuff on and glue the table up....and get going on the runners and drawer....there is allot to this little thing....if it bothers you then i am sure you will change it...if not ....dont...