K, I had to post one more time on this thread to hit 50.

looks like an opportunity to practice paring with a chisel Justin. Gotta be easier than what T-man had to do with the bombe re-do

rob..that looks great...i think you got some time ahead ....so i think you should apply the drawer runners and cut the parts to your drawer...give me a call ...and i can give you the low-down on the drawer front...dont get too far on the drawer... i want to show you a killer approach to perfect lines between the veneer -banding -***** beading and space around the drawer opening.....you gonna like ...

i knew you were gonna re-do the foot....congrats....welcome to my world...i dont know if its a good thing...but i know the old foot has no chance of upsetting you now its gone...if you know what i mean....this is the stuff that keeps me up at night..

Yeah I redid it yesterday. It come off pretty easy being the grain was running horizontally. It Just like everyone else's now. Tommy, I get the same way(not really about this foot) but if something is not right I just get sick about it.

Justin

hey Chizz-rather than pulling cobbling together a scratch block I decided to use my other LN tool that has sat in a box unused for over a year. Its a scratch beading tool and it came with a few extra blanks. After a few mins of filing I was ready to get scratching. No problems getting straight lines although the veneer I picked up last night from Rockler to practice with is 1/32" so the lines are a bit faint. For this project, we aren't making a straight scratch across the stock but I decided to try it and even very light repetitive cuts result in a ragged slot. How are across the grain cuts done with stringing? Are they always knifed?

Chuck and I fashioned some cutters from an old 3/4" band saw blade and used it in a LN beading tool. The stock machined easily and worked great in the beading tool, although have to kiss up to the final depth since the thin stock and narrow profile is not well supported and can bend easily.

We are in the process of modifying an inexpensive set of yardstick trammel points. One of the points came with a lead tightened on with a collet. I've ordered up some 3/32 and 1/8 W1 drill rod stock from my local Fastenal store. I choose the diameter that best fits the collet and mill it to the approriate thickness and then heat temper the profile to bead the radius. I get the stock on Monday, so I'll let everyone know how it works.