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Spray Finishing |
02/29/2008 09:53 PM |
McLaren1592 |

Hey Guys,
Don't know if anyone cares about spraying but I took a course on this last week. tons of useful stuff... vinyl sealers, stain, glazes, lacquer, tinted lacquer, crackling...
here's a pic of a sample door with vinyl sealer, golden oak stain, 1 coat lacquer, burnt umber wiping glaze and another coat of lacquer...
I came out of it saying "that's how they make those cabinets look like that"...
seeya |
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spray finishing |
03/01/2008 05:11 AM |
NLamens |
Dave........that looks in the ballpark to a choice Eli might use on his splayed leg maple table.
What did you learn about the vinyl sealer??? I'm not familiar with it at all. I'm assuming some kind of chemical poly coat of some sort. Always use nitro-lacquer based sealer or shellac.
Hey you learn new finishing techniqiue, you have to try on what's around, why not a repro Bombe??? |
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booth ? |
03/01/2008 06:43 AM |
romessina |
Hey Dave
it looks really nice !
but do you need a spray booth
and the gear that goes along
to do it?
-Ronaldo |
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sprayin' |
03/01/2008 10:49 AM |
McLaren1592 |
Hey Ronaldo, I do most of my spraying outside when the weather is nice.... for drying I still use a fan to exhaust the air from the garage... lacquer is dangerous, but just the smell of it doesn't mean its going to blow up... I was taught that as long as there is air flow in and out.... it will never build up enough... just be sensible...
The most important thing with spraying is the technique... I started out years ago doing autobody work.... now I've used a $30 gun to a $600 turbine system... if you don't have the right technique the equipment really doesn't matter...
Its fun, and fast
Dave |
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sealer |
03/01/2008 11:01 AM |
McLaren1592 |
Hey Neil,
All the products from this place are M.L. Campbell stuff... the sealer is called water white vinyl sealer, the info sheet says:
A fast dry, true water white vinyl sealer that is non-yellowing and is formulated to offer outstanding adhesion, stain blocking and superior moisture resistance as required.
The stuff is dry as soon as you carry it out of the booth, they said it helps even out the grain a bit and helps prevent blotchy areas
www.mlcampbell.com
later |
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respirator |
03/03/2008 01:37 PM |
romessina |
Dave,
I believe you wear a respirator even
if outdoors, what kind do you use/recommend??
Thanks for sharing
-Ronaldo |
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mask |
03/03/2008 04:44 PM |
McLaren1592 |
Hey Ronaldo
I use a FlexiStar respirator I bought at the local Lee Valley. It's comfortable and I use it for any misty, dusty or yucky stuff....safety glasses or a face shield is a good idea .... I have one pair of eye glasses that has poly overspray all over them...I always wear safety glasses over my glasses cause you never really know where some of the mist might end up.... I also try to wear long sleaves, a hat and nitrile gloves
Most of this stuff I figured out the hard way when I was younger spraying cars or parts of cars.... Hugger Orange is much better on a vehicle than you.... I'm sure cleaning off acrylic urethane overspray off your skin with medium reducer can't be good... haha
Hey Neil..... what kind of mask do you use? |
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Respirator Mask |
03/03/2008 08:17 PM |
NLamens |
Dave the Spider Silva McLaren and Rondo (AKA: Ronaldo):
My finishing combat apparel starts with the Full face 3M 6800. Able to switch filters from vapor to particulate and is very comfortable, also use the clear shields that peal on and off. If I'm going to lathe turn for an extended time I go to this mask with the particulate filter. It is much more comfortable than my 1/2 mask (not 3M).
Where do you buy the nitrile gloves, I've been using the clunky rubber coated ones and have heard the nitriles are very good.
As my work gets smaller in size, my goal is to live in the moment and heed the words of Mr Miogi, which are to "wipe-on, sprayless". Like Dave, way to many hours in spray boothes not protected properly....trying to lessen chemical exposure.
Although.....tell me Dave that Dr Bombe wouldn't be a gas to finish. I'd come out of semi-spray finishing retirment for that one. Line everything up, roll-in, roll-out, get a good flow going.......yeah that was a pun....it's meant to include the gun; and on those words I think I'll run.
So in the infamous words of David-son, more chop chop, less type type.
Neil |
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finishes |
03/04/2008 09:57 AM |
TChisel  |
wow...you guys seem to like this topic.....what i know about finish is that ...i dont know about finish.....i always find an expert to do it for me....i bet it would be fun to do but i think its kinda like a machanic doing body work....i have no business trying to put the correct finish on this bombe ....the woman who is doing it has been doing it for 20 years and is well known in the field....she is one of the countries best at restorations....you should see her place ..its loaded with priceless period pieces......i am lucky she agreed to do it....wait till you see what we do.....dont worry i will be documenting the process... right down to gilding the hardware.....i need to take care of the few brain cells i got left....they just started to communicate with each other...so i dont need the extra haze from all those chemicals... |
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chemicals and stuff |
03/04/2008 12:14 PM |
romessina |
Hi Doug and Neil,
this spray finishing does look to
involve a lot of work indeed !!
and also chemical hazards :O
thanks for you posts, but I think
I will go for something simpler.
hey T-Mac what about some french polishing for a nice body-work-finish??
nice that you are documenting the finishing on the bombé!
(and really nice to have an expert doing it!!! it looks like a whole world on itself this finishing business!!)
-Ronaldo |
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