0412 - Installing an Insulated Door and Fiberglass November 22-28, 1993 | May 23-29, 1994 HI, I'M BOB VILA.
WELCOME HOME AGAIN.
WE'RE STILL TRYING TO CLOSE
OUR LITTLE HOUSE
ON THE SIDE OF THE LAKE,
AND TODAY WE'LL INSTALL
A FRENCH PATIO DOOR.
IT'S A CONTEMPORARY-LOOKING
GLASS DOOR.
WE'RE ALSO GETTING TOGETHER
WITH THE INSULATION CONTRACTORS,
WHO WILL GIVE US
TIPS ON FIBERGLASS INSULATION
AND DOING IT
IN A CATHEDRAL CEILING.
LARRY, OUR CONTRACTOR,
WILL GIVE US INFORMATION
ON CREATING
A TEMPORARY-LOOKING RAILING
FOR THE MASTER
BEDROOM DECK.
STICK AROUND. IT'S GOOD
TO HAVE YOU HOME AGAIN.
CAPTIONING MADE POSSIBLE BY
B.V.T.V.
OK, LET'S GET STARTED
WITH OUR KITCHEN DOOR.
RYLEY,
HOW ARE YOU DOING?
HI, BOB.
IT'S A GOOD-LOOKING
DOOR.
IT'S A FULL-VIEW
GLASS DOOR
WITH INSULATED
THERMAL GLASS.
TEMPERED GLASS,
I'M SURE.
WHAT ARE YOU DOING
OVER HERE?
THESE ARE THE FLANGES
THAT COME WITH IT.
THEY COME BROKEN DOWN
SO AS NOT
TO GET DAMAGED
WHEN THEY'RE
BEING SHIPPED.
THIS JUST FITS
INTO A GROOVE
INTO THE DOOR.
AND YOU TAP IT
INTO PLACE.
THIS IS BRITTLE STUFF,
AND IT CAN BREAK.
THIS IS WHAT'S USED
TO ATTACH THE DOOR
ONTO THE PLYWOOD
OF THE HOUSE FRAME.
NOW, I SEE YOU'VE GOT
A LITTLE ROLL
OF LEAD OVER HERE.
WE WANNA USE LEAD
BETWEEN THE THRESHOLD
AND THE FRAME
TO PREVENT ANY MOISTURE
FROM COMING UP,
INSECTS...
IT'S A GOOD PROTECTOR.
IT'S A GOOD
PLIABLE MATERIAL
AND IT'S IN
A LOCATION WHERE
YOU'LL NEVER HAVE
TO WORRY ABOUT
CHILDREN AND
LEAD POISONING.
IT'S TOTALLY
HIDDEN.
DO YOU NAIL
IT DOWN?
I PUT A COUPLE
OF ROOFING NAILS
TO HOLD IT IN PLACE.
IS THERE ANY
PRELIMINARY WORK
YOU HAVE TO DO
TO THE FRAME
BEFORE YOU BRING
THE DOOR INTO PLACE?
BASICALLY,
WE WANTED TO MAKE SURE
THAT THE OPENING
IS THE RIGHT SIZE,
THEN WE CHECKED THE FRAME
TO SEE IF IT'S LEVEL,
AND LUCKY FOR US
THIS IS RIGHT ON THE MONEY.
IF IT WEREN'T,
WE'D HAVE TO SHIM
EITHER ONE SIDE
OR THE OTHER.
WE HAVE A GOOD
CONTRACTOR
ON THE FRAME.
SO NOW WE'LL PUT
A BEAD OF CAULKING
RIGHT ALONG HERE,
WHERE THE THRESHOLD
WILL SET RIGHT ONTO THIS.
AND WE'RE USING
A SILICONE CAULKING
MATERIAL.
SILICONE CAULKING
MADE SPECIFICALLY
FOR WINDOW
AND DOOR INSTALLATIONS.
WILL YOU HAVE TO
DO A LOT
OF TRIMMING
TO THIS LEAD?
THE REASON
WE'RE USING THE LEAD
IS BECAUSE IT'S
A NICE, PLIABLE MATERIAL
AS OPPOSED TO COPPER.
WHAT WE'LL DO
IS FORM IT.
AND YOU CAN CUT
THE EXCESS WITH
YOUR KNIFE.
I TRY TO ELIMINATE
THE CUTTING.
ARE WE READY
TO TRY IT?
IT'S ALL SET.
I'LL TAKE THAT SIDE.
READY TO PUT
THE BOTTOM RIGHT IN?
WE JUST MAKE
ONE TRIM CUT?
WE JUST WANT
TO PEEL THIS BACK
OUT OF THE WAY FOR NOW.
ISN'T THAT GREAT
HOW THAT STUFF
CUTS EASY?
THIS IS GREAT STUFF
TO WORK WITH.
NOW WE CAN GET
THIS DOOR HUNG.
I'LL CUT THIS SIDE BACK.
[BOB]
WHEN YOU CHECK IT
FOR PLUMB,
YOU ALWAYS PUT IT ON
THE HINGE SIDE, RIGHT?
YES, ALWAYS
THE HINGE SIDE FIRST.
THIS ONE'S PERFECT
RIGHT THERE.
I'M JUST GONNA TACK IT
BECAUSE WE WANT
TO MAKE SURE THAT
THE DOOR OPERATES.
SO, THIS IS TEMPORARILY
TACKED IN PLACE
SO THE WIND
WON'T BLOW IT DOWN.
NOW, LET'S LOOK
FROM THE OTHER SIDE.
THESE SHIPPING
FASTENERS MAKE SURE
THAT THE DOOR
STAYS SQUARE
WHILE YOU'RE
INSTALLING IT,
EVEN THOUGH
SOME PEOPLE
WANT THEM OFF
BEFORE YOU PUT
IT IN.
NOW WE'RE
READY TO SEE
HOW IT SWINGS
A LITTLE BIT.
THAT'S PRETTY GOOD.
THEN THE OTHER THING
WE WANT TO BE
SURE OF
IS THAT THIS PLUNGER
STILL LINES UP
WITH THE STRIKER PLATE.
THAT'S OF UTMOST
IMPORTANCE.
IT'S IN THERE
NICE AND SQUARE.
NOW WE CAN GO AHEAD
AND ATTACH THE JAMS.
HOW DO YOU DO THAT?
WE USE SOME SHIMS
USING THREE ON EACH SIDE,
TOP AND BOTTOM
AND ONE IN THE MIDDLE.
AND THE SHIMS
ARE A WAY
OF PROVIDING
EXTRA SUPPORT
IN BETWEEN
THE STUDWORK
OF A FRAME
AND THE JAM
OF A DOOR.
THEY SENT
THESE THREE-INCH SCREWS
TO SCREW IT RIGHT IN WITH,
PHILLIPS HEADS.
NOW THE ONE THAT GOES
NEAR THE STRIKER PLATE
IS THE ONE
YOU REALLY DEPEND ON
WHEN SOMEBODY'S
TRYING TO JIMMY
YOUR DOOR OPEN.
THAT'S RIGHT.
TO MAKE SURE
THAT THE DOOR
DOESN'T SWELL UP
FROM THE MOISTURE
IN THE AIR
YOU SHOULD PRIME IT
RIGHT AWAY,
ESPECIALLY AT
THE TOP AND THE BOTTOM.
RYLEY, YOU ONLY PUT
ONE SCREW IN
IN EACH PLACE?
YEAH, THAT'S ALL
IT REALLY NEEDS.
PUTTING IN
TOO MANY MIGHT
SPLIT THE WOOD.
YEAH. JAMS ARE
BASICALLY ABOUT
AN INCH THICK.
YEP.
OK. BASICALLY
YOU HAVE TO DO
THE SAME PROCESS
WITH THE OTHER SIDE
OF THE JAM,
THEN YOUR DOOR
IS INSTALLED.
THANKS, RYLEY.
WE'RE GOING TO BREAK
FOR SOME MESSAGES.
WE'LL INSULATE NEXT.
HI, I'M BOB VILA.
NEXT HOME AGAIN
WE'LL GIVE YOU SOME TIPS
ON HOW YOU INSTALL
PRE-HUNG DOORS
IN YOUR OWN HOUSE.
WE'RE ALSO WORKING
WITH OUR INSULATION CONTRACTORS
WHO'LL SHOW US HOW TO PUT IN
FIBERGLASS INSULATION
IN A CATHEDRAL CEILING
AND VENT IT PROPERLY,
AND OUR CONTRACTOR
WILL BUILD A RAILING
AROUND A MASTER
BEDROOM DECK.
NEXT ON HOME AGAIN.
I'M BOB VILA.
NEXT ON HOME AGAIN
WE'LL BE HANGING DOORS,
INSULATING, AND BUILDING
DECK RAILS.
DON'T MISS IT.
JOINING US NOW,
JIM AND JOHN CAISSE,
TWO BROTHERS IN
THE INSULATION BUSINESS.
I WANT TO TALK ABOUT
OUR CATHEDRAL CEILING.
THIS FEATURE IS FOUND
IN CONTEMPORARY HOUSES.
WHAT'S THE BEST WAY
TO INSULATE IT?
WELL, BOB,
A LOT DEPENDS
ON THE SIZE
THAT THE FRAMER USES
WHEN HE'S FRAMING
THE HOUSE,
BUT IN THIS CASE
WE HAVE 2 BY 1Os
WHICH GIVES YOU 9 1/2
INCHES OF SPACE.
WE INSTALL THESE
AIR BAFFOLDS,
WHICH ALLOW
A CONSTANT AIR FLOW
TO RUN ALONG
THE ROOF LINE,
WHICH HELPS PREVENT
CONDENSATION,
HELPS THE ROOF LAST
LONGER.
YEAH.
ONE OF THE
IMPORTANT THINGS
IS THAT YOU DON'T
HAVE MOISTURE
COLLECTING
IN THE CEILING AREA
OR IN THE INSULATION.
SO THIS WOULD ALLOW
AIR TO FLOW THROUGH HERE
COMING IN FROM THE EAVE.
AND HOW DOES IT GET
OUT THE TOP?
YOU GOT YOUR RIDGE RUNNER
RIGHT HERE, BOB.
THIS IS THE ITEM
THE ROOFING CONTRACTOR
PUTS ON AT THE TOP.
THERE'S ENOUGH OF A GAP
LEFT IN THE SHEATHING
THAT ALL THAT AIR
GETS RIGHT BACK OUT.
WHAT'S THE R FACTOR
THAT WE GET IN
THAT CEILING?
USING AN I-3O,
WE'RE USING
WHAT'S CALLED
A HIGH-DENSITY BLANKET,
IT'S 8 1/4
INCHES THICK.
IN THE LAST FEW YEARS
THEY'VE COME OUT
WITH THIS.
THEY USED TO JUST HAVE
THE 9 1/2 INCH BLANKET,
WHICH IS YOUR STANDARD
I-3O FOR CEILINGS.
THEY'VE COME OUT
WITH THIS
SPECIFICALLY FOR
2 BY 1O FRAMING,
SO YOU CAN GET
I-3O THICKNESS
AND STILL ALLOW
AIR SPACE ALONG
YOUR ROOF LINE.
THEY'VE DONE THIS
BY INCREASING
THE DENSITY,
BUT YOU DON'T HAVE
TO COMPRESS
THE MATERIAL.
SOME PEOPLE MAKE
THAT MISTAKE, RIGHT?
EXACTLY. THAT PRODUCT
IS NOT SUPPOSED
TO BE CONDENSED
IN ANY WAY.
THE 8 1/4 INSULATION
FILLS THAT 2 BY 1O
PERFECTLY
WITH THE BAFFOLD
IN PLACE.
THIS MATERIAL
HAS THE BROWN PAPER,
OR CRAFT PAPER,
AS A MOISTURE BARRIER.
YOU DON'T NEED
AN ADDITIONAL
VISQUEEN BARRIER
ACROSS THAT?
WE USE THAT
ON THE WALLS,
BUT ON
THE CEILINGS WE USE
THE CRAFT FACE.
IT ALLOWS A LITTLE
BIT OF AIR MOVEMENT,
A LITTLE BIT
OF BREATHING
WHERE YOU DO
ALREADY HAVE
AN AIR FLOW,
SO IF ANY MOISTURE
DOES ESCAPE
IT SHOULD EVAPORATE.
THAT MAKES SENSE,
TO CREATE AN ENVIRONMENT
THAT ISN'T TOO TIGHT.
IF YOU DO HAVE AN AREA
WHERE SOME OF
THE MOISTURE CAN BREATHE
THROUGH THE CEILING,
THAT'S BENEFICIAL.
WHAT KIND OF AN R-FACTOR
DO WE GET IN THE WALLS?
YOU'VE GOT R-13
IN THESE, BOB.
MASS. CODE SAYS
YOU CAN GET BY
WITH AN R-11,
BUT THE R-13 GIVES YOU
BETTER INSULATION
PRODUCT IN THERE.
THE R-11 AND THE R-13
ARE THE SAME,
3 1/2 INCHES
IN DIMENSION,
BUT YOU GET BETTER
R-VALUE WITH THE R-13.
FELLAS, WHAT ABOUT
COMFORT INSTALLING THIS?
A LOT OF DO-IT-YOURSELFERS
JUST GO CRAZY
COUGHING, HACKING,
AND SCRATCHING ON
THEIR FOREARMS
WHEN THEY HAVE
TO HANDLE THE FIBERGLASS.
STEVE, AS YOU SEE, IS
WEARING A FACE MASK,
A NOSE GUARD,
AND GOGGLES.
YEAH, BUT HE'S JUST
GOT A T-SHIRT ON.
STEVEN HAS DONE THIS
QUITE A WHILE NOW,
AND HE'S IMMUNE
TO A LOT OF IT.
SO IT DOESN'T
BOTHER HIM.
CORRECT. YOUR
HOMEOWNER, THOUGH,
IF SOMEONE IS
INSULATING THEIR
ATTIC OR WALLS,
THEY WOULD PROBABLY
WANT TO WEAR
LONG SLEEVES AND
A BASEBALL CAP.
AS WELL AS
A PARTICLE MASK
AND GOGGLES.
AND A PROPERLY
INSTALLED JOB,
NONE OF THIS
GETS OUT OF
THE SIDE WALL.
IT'S ALL COMPACTED
IN THERE.
IT'S COMPACTED,
SEALED UP,
AND YOUR SHEET ROCK
SEALS IT UP
EVEN BETTER.
NOW, IN THE SIDE WALL
YOU'VE USED THE SAME
FIBERGLASS INSULATION,
BUT IT DOESN'T HAVE
THE BROWN CRAFT PAPER
ON IT. WHY?
IN THE EXTERIOR WALLS
YOU DON'T HAVE
ANY VENTILATION
LIKE YOU DO
IN THE ATTIC,
SO THE MOISTURE
RETARDER, POLYETHYLENE,
SEALS IT UP TIGHTER
AND KEEPS MOISTURE
FROM GETTING INTO
THE WALL CAVITY.
THAT'S ONE CONTINUOUS SHEET
YOU'RE PUTTING UP.
THIS IS OF
EXTREME IMPORTANCE,
BECAUSE IF MOISTURE
PENETRATES INTO
THE WALL CAVITY
AND THAT INSULATION
GETS SOGGY,
YOU'RE LOSING
ITS EFFECTIVENESS.
IT SOME CASES,
I'VE SEEN IT FREEZE UP.
LET ME ASK YOU
A DOLLARS AND SENSE
QUESTION.
HOW BIG A JOB IS THIS?
SQUARE FOOTAGE WISE,
IT'S PROBABLY 45OO
TO 5OOO SQUARE FEET
OF MATERIAL
GOING INTO THIS JOB.
AND WHAT DOES
THE INSTALLATION COST?
IT COSTS
APPROXIMATELY $17OO.
EVERY JOB DIFFERS
DEPENDING ON
THE TYPE OF MATERIAL
AND THE SQUARE
FOOTAGE OF
THE MATERIAL.
AND THIS IS NEW WORK.
IT'S NOT THE SAME
AS AN EXISTING HOUSE.
AN OLDER HOME,
YOU HAVE A TOUGHER TIME
DEALING
WITH THE FRAMING,
AND THAT END OF IT.
AND THEN A SECOND
SHEET GOES RIGHT UP,
'CAUSE WE'VE GOT
AN EXTRA TALL WALL.
WHAT MIL. POLYETHYLENE
IS THAT?
THAT'S A FULL WEIGHT
THREE MIL. POLY,
WHICH IS INDUSTRY
STANDARD TODAY.
THANKS, JOHN AND JIM.
WHEN WE RETURN,
WE'LL BE BUILDING
A PORCH RAILING,
SO STAY WITH ME.
WE'RE ON THE DECK OUTSIDE
OF THE MASTER BEDROOM,
AND THIS IS ROUGHLY
A 12 BY 14 DECK
WHICH HAS A RUBBER
ROOFING PRODUCT
THAT'S ALREADY
BEEN INSTALLED,
AND WILL RECEIVE
A WOODEN STRAIGHT GRAIN DECK.
THE PROBLEM IS THAT
WE HAVE TO ACCOMMODATE
SOME SORT OF
A RAILING SYSTEM.
LET'S TALK
WITH LARRY LANDERS,
OUR GENERAL CONTRACTOR,
ABOUT HOW HE'S
BUILDING IT.
THIS IS VERY
CLEAN-LOOKING, LARRY.
WHAT KIND OF STOCK
IS IT?
THE TOP AND BOTTOM RAIL
IS DOUGLAS FIR.
STRAIGHT GRAIN.
THE BALUSTERS
ARE STRAIGHT GRAIN CEDAR
WITH A FOUR-INCH
SPACE IN IT.
CLEAR CEDAR.
WE HAVE TO MEET
A CODE REQUIREMENT.
BEING UP ON
THE SECOND FLOOR,
WE'RE ABOVE THE KITCHEN
WITH THIS RUBBER ROOF
ON TOP OF IT,
AND WE'RE ABOUT
12 FEET OFF THE GROUND.
YOU'VE GOT TO HAVE
A SAFE RAILING
BECAUSE
CODE REQUIRES...
A MINIMUM HEIGHT
OF 36 INCHES
OFF THE PORCH FLOOR.
WHAT ABOUT
THE SPACING
IN BETWEEN
THESE SPINDLES,
OR BALUSTERS?
THEY HAVE TO BE
A MINIMUM OF NINE INCHES,
PERPENDICULAR
TO THE BALUSTER.
WE CHOSE FOUR INCHES
BECAUSE IT LOOKS BETTER.
IT'S A CLEAN LOOKING,
CONTEMPORARY DESIGN,
AND WHAT I LOVE
IS THE WOODS YOU'VE CHOSEN
REALLY TAKE THE WEATHER
VERY WELL.
SHOW US HOW
YOU BUILD IT.
THESE PIECES ARE WHAT
I'M LAYING OUT
FOR THE BALUSTERS.
THESE ARE RAILS.
WELL, THIS PIECE
ATTACHES TO THE RAIL.
IT HOLDS
THE BALUSTERS
TOGETHER.
WE LIKE TO HAVE
SCREWS AND NAILS
COMING UP FROM
THE BOTTOM.
I'LL EXPLAIN THAT
IN A MINUTE,
BUT WE HAVE
TO LAY IT OUT.
I HAVE A FOUR-INCH
SPACE HERE,
SO I MADE A BLOCK
5 1/2 INCHES LONG
BECAUSE THE BALUSTER
IS AN INCH AND A HALF.
WE LINE THESE UP...
AND WE'VE GOT
THAT POINT THERE.
I PUT A MARK
HERE AND HERE...
AN X, SLIDE OVER,
AND HERE AND HERE,
AN X...
THEN I TAKE
THE SQUARE...
AND WHAT WE'LL DO...
IS INSTALL
THE BALUSTERS
ON THESE TWO PIECES
AND PUT THE TOP
AND BOTTOM RAIL
ON AFTERWARDS.
LET'S SEE HOW
YOU ASSEMBLE IT.
WE LAY THESE DOWN
AND THE X's ARE
RIGHT NEXT
TO EACH OTHER.
WE SPREAD THEM
OUT HERE,
TAKE A BALUSTER...
AND WE'RE
SHOOTING THEM.
WE SHOOT THEM
WITH TWO 2-INCH
GALVANIZED
FINISHED NAILS.
THEY'RE ALL
GLUED TOGETHER
BUT THEY'RE
LITERALLY
TWO-INCH
FINISHED NAILS.
AND THEY GO
RIGHT INTO PLACE.
[LARRY]
AFTER THE NAILS
GO IN,
WE'LL PRE-DRILL
SOME HOLES IN THE END,
AND A TWO-INCH
GALVANIZED
SCREW IN THERE
WILL REALLY
HOLD IT TOGETHER.
WHEN IT'S COMPLETE,
YOU WON'T SEE ANY
OF THE NAIL ENDS.
NO, YOU WON'T
SEE ANYTHING,
PLUS IT
WILL PREVENT THEM
FROM TWISTING OVER TIME,
WHICH YOU FIND IN
A LOT OF PORCH RAILS.
THAT'S CLEVER.
YOU'RE HOLDING
THEM IN PLACE
WITH THE OTHER RAIL.
OTHERWISE,
THEY'LL ALL
FALL DOWN.
WE LINE THOSE UP
AND SHOOT THEM
FROM UP TOP.
WHAT SIZE SCREWS
ARE WE USING HERE?
WE'RE USING TWO-INCH
GALVANIZED SCREWS.
DO YOU NEED THIS
IN ADDITION TO
THE NAILS?
IT HELPS SNUG
THE WOOD UP REAL GOOD
BECAUSE OVER TIME
IT WILL SWELL
AND CONTRACT.
EVEN WITH
A FINISH ON IT.
RIGHT.
THIS WILL SECURE
THAT IT WON'T WARP.
THAT'S RIGHT.
THIS IS THE TOP RAIL
WE'RE DOING,
SO ONCE WE PUT
THE RAIL IN...
THIS TWO BY FOUR
WHICH YOU'VE...
YOU'VE CUT THIS ON
THE TABLE SAW,
RIGHT?
WHAT DO YOU CALL
THAT BOARD
THAT YOU'VE GOT CLAMPED
WITH THE SAW CUTS.
IT'S CALLED
A FEATHER BOARD.
IT HOLDS THE WOOD
TO THE TABLE
SO THAT THIS CHAMPER
WILL BE EVEN AND SMOOTH.
NOW, THIS BEING
THE TOP RAIL,
WE'RE GOING TO SCREW
FROM THE BOTTOM
WITH INCH
AND A QUARTER SCREWS.
YOU'RE GONNA HOLD IT
ON THIS LINE HERE, BOB.
SEE THE LINE?
YEP. THERE IT IS.
I'LL LINE UP
THE CENTER, KENNY.
THE REASON
WHY WE'RE SCREWING
FROM THE BOTTOM HERE
ON THE TOP RAIL,
SO YOU DON'T SEE
ANY HARDWARE,
SCREWHEADS, OR NAILS.
BASICALLY, WE DO
THE SAME THING
ON THE OTHER END
ON THE BOTTOM.
BASICALLY,
BUT WE SCREW FROM
THE BOTTOM OF
THE BOTTOM RAIL.
WE'VE ALREADY
PRE-DRILLED THE HOLES.
I'LL GET OUT
OF THE WAY, HERE.
YOU'RE GONNA HELP
HOLD THIS
ON THE CHAMPER, HERE.
RIGHT ABOUT THERE.
OK!
THIS IS REALLY
FINISHED WORK
THAT WE'RE DOING.
YOU GUYS HAVE
TO BE CAREFUL
WITH THIS STUFF.
WE WANT TO GET
A PRE-MADE PANEL
IN PLACE,
AND DROP IT DOWN.
WHAT WE'VE DONE IS
WE'VE PRE-DRILLED
OUR HOLES, BOB,
BECAUSE WE'VE TRIED
TO NOT SHOW ANY NAILS
OR SCREWS,
SO WE'VE PRE-DRILLED
AT AN ANGLE FROM
UNDERNEATH.
WE'LL INSTALL
GALVANIZED SCREWS
INTO THE POSTS.
IT'S EXTREMELY
IMPORTANT
TO PRE-DRILL
THESE HOLES,
BECAUSE OTHERWISE
YOU CAN SPLIT
THAT HEAD
AT THE END, AND THEN
YOU'LL WANNA SHOOT
YOURSELF.
WE'LL BE BACK.
THANKS, LARRY.
THAT LOOKS GOOD.
ALL THAT'S MISSING
IS THE TRIANGULAR
SECTION OF RAILING HERE,
THE HARD PART.
COME HOME AGAIN NEXT TIME
WHEN WE'LL INSTALL A CEMENT
BOARD IN THE BATHROOM
AND ALSO A SHOWER PAN,
AND A RECESSED LIGHTING FIXTURE
IN THE KITCHEN AREA.
TILL THEN, I'M BOB VILA.
IT'S GOOD TO HAVE YOU
HOME AGAIN.
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