0416 - Applying Bathroom Tile and Deck Treatment December 20-26, 1993 | June 20-26, 1994 HI, I'M BOB VILA.
WELCOME HOME AGAIN.
WE'RE STILL WORKING
ON OUR CLAPBOARD.
WE'LL SHOW YOU HOW TO CREATE
A NEAT DETAIL
FOR THE DORMER
CALLED A FAN SUNBURST
YOU MAKE WITH CLAPBOARDS.
INSIDE WE'RE WORKING
ON THE CERAMIC TILE FLOORS.
LARRY THE CONTRACTOR WILL
SHOW US HOW TO INSTALL
FLOOR TILE IN THE BATHROOM.
AND OFF THE MASTER
BEDROOM DECK,
WE'RE INSTALLING
THE FINISHED FLOOR.
DON'T GO AWAY. IT'S GOOD
TO HAVE YOU HOME AGAIN.
CAPTIONING MADE POSSIBLE BY
B.V.T.V.
WHEN YOU HAVE A DORMER
WITH A GABLE END,
YOU CAN EITHER CONTINUE
YOUR CLAPBOARDS
ALL THE WAY UP TO THE PEAK
OR DOING SOMETHING INTERESTING,
LIKE A SUNBURST.
BRIAN QUINN,
OUR SIDING CONTRACTOR--
BRIAN, CAN YOU SHOW US
HOW THAT'S DONE?
SURE.
IT'S SIMPLE
WHEN YOU LOOK AT IT,
BUT IN FACT IT'S
A PRETTY COMPLICATED
PIECE OF CRAFTSMANSHIP
TO CREATE.
AND WHAT'S THE WIDTH
OF OUR AREA?
WE HAVE AN OVERALL
OF 8O INCHES,
WHICH IS A GOOD,
EVEN INCREMENT
TO WORK WITH.
LET'S TAKE THE TAPE
MEASURE OUT
AND FIGURE OUT
WHAT YOU'VE DONE.
YOUR MIDPOINT
IS AT 4O INCHES.
THEN SHOW ME
THE REST OF WHAT
WE'VE GOT HERE.
FROM THIS SIDE
WE HAVE 4O 1/2.
AND YOU'VE DIVIDED
THIS AND GOTTEN
11 1/2 INCHES.
SO YOUR RADIUS
IS 11 1/2,
WHICH MAKES
THE WHOLE THING
HERE 23.
EXACTLY.
HOW DID YOU DETERMINE
THAT DIMENSION
FOR THE HALF-CIRCLE?
PRETTY MUCH
IT'S BY EYE.
WE TRIED A SMALL ONE.
IT DIDN'T REALLY
GO WITH THE GABLE.
YOU NEED A SENSE
OF PROPORTION.
HERE WE GO. 23 1/2,
ALMOST 2 FEET.
THAT MEANS THESE GUYS
ARE ABOUT 3O INCHES.
EXACTLY.
THAT'S THE SIMPLE
PART OF THE DEAL.
THE HARD PART
IS FIGURING OUT
HOW TO MAKE
THESE CUTS SO THAT
YOU'RE NOT BUILDING UP
CLAPBOARDS AND CREATING
A THICKNESS
ON THE WIDE END
THAT WOULD BE BEYOND
THE FACE
OF THIS PIECE
OF HALF ROUND.
HOW DO YOU DO THAT?
WE GO WITH THE THIN END
ON THE INSIDE
NEAR THE HALF MOON.
IF YOU DID GO WITH
THE THICK END,
BY THE TOP, YOU'D
BE STICKING OVER
AN INCH.
YOU'RE MEASURING
FROM THE THIN EDGE
OF THE CLAPBOARD
AND CUTTING OFF
THE THICK EDGE.
WE'VE LAID OUT
THE PATTERN
ON FELT PAPER.
THE BIG QUESTION IS
HOW DO YOU DETERMINE
HOW MANY CLAPBOARDS
ARE BEING USED
AND WHAT THESE
DIMENSIONS ARE?
I TAKE MY CIRCUMFERENCE
FROM HERE TO HERE,
GET THAT MEASUREMENT,
AND I LIKE TO KEEP
THE COURSES AROUND
2 INCHES HERE.
THAT'S AN AESTHETIC
DECISION YOU'RE MAKING.
YOU DON'T
WANT THEM WIDER
THAN ABOUT 2 INCHES.
THAT WORKS OUT
TO 11 COURSES.
RIGHT.
AT THE OTHER END?
ON THIS SIDE,
YOU GO FROM THE PEAK
DOWN TO THIS CORNER,
THEN DOWN TO THIS POINT.
YOU TAKE THAT
DIMENSION...
AND DIVIDE IT
BY 11.
WHAT DOES THAT
END UP BEING?
4 5/8.
ALL RIGHT. LET'S
SEE YOU CUT.
THE NEXT QUESTION IS,
HOW ABOUT THE OVERLAP?
I ADD A HALF-INCH
OVERLAP.
ALL RIGHT.
SO ON THE INSIDE
BY THE MOON,
WE HAVE 1 1/2 INCHES.
SO I ADD HALF AN INCH,
GIVING US 2 INCHES.
THESE ARE ROUGHLY
3O INCHES.
AND YOU'RE MAKING THEM
ROUGHLY 3O INCHES...
SO I GO
SOMETHING LIKE THAT.
RIGHT.
THEN DOWN HERE
WE HAVE 4 5/8.
I'LL ADD A HALF TO THAT.
IT'S LIKE 5 1/8.
SOMETHING LIKE THAT.
THEN YOU CAN TAKE
ANY ONE OF THESE.
JUST A STRAIGHT EDGE.
DRAW YOUR LINE.
YOU CAN USE
THE OTHER SIDE.
A NICE STRAIGHT LINE.
MAKE YOUR MARK.
AND RIP.
THAT'S IT.
AND THAT'S MY PATTERN.
BRIAN, NOW YOU HAVE
TO FIGURE OUT
HOW TO MAKE
THAT CURVED CUT
WHERE IT MEETS
THE CIRCLE.
WHAT I DO IS
LAY MY PIECE ON,
OVERLAPPING THE RAKE
AND THE HALF MOON.
AND I TAKE MY PENCIL
AND I DRAW
THE MARK.
AND YOU TRANSFER
THE CURVE FREEHAND.
FREEHAND.
AND THEN I TAKE
MY JIGSAW...
GIVE IT A TRY.
SOMETIMES YOU'VE GOT
TO PLAY WITH THEM
A FEW TIMES
TO GET THEM
NICE AND SQUARE.
WHAT ABOUT
THE OTHER END?
I LET IT OVERHANG
THE RAKE,
I MARK HERE,
AND UNDER THE RAKE
YOU HAVE ABOUT
3/4 OF AN INCH OF PLAY,
SO I MARK IT LONG.
AND IT DOESN'T HAVE
TO BE A TIGHT FIT.
NO, BECAUSE IT'S
SHELTERED FROM
THE WEATHER.
GREAT.
SO I FLIP THIS OVER.
WHAT I DO FIRST
IS I CUT MY ANGLE.
AND TRY IT AGAIN.
AND THERE'S A PIECE.
BRIAN, THAT REALLY
LOOKS TERRIFIC.
DO YOU REALLY NEED
THAT WHITE PARTING BEAM
IN THE MIDDLE?
YES, BOB. YOU DO.
IF YOU DIDN'T
GO WITH THIS,
YOU'D HAVE TWO CLAPBOARDS
BUTTING TOGETHER.
THAT'S A PERFECT SITUATION
FOR WATER DAMAGE.
YOU DON'T WANT THAT
TO HAPPEN.
NO.
WE CAN STAIN IT
TO MATCH THE REST.
THAT'S WHAT WE PLANNED.
THANKS A LOT.
WE'LL BE RIGHT BACK.
I'M BOB VILA.
NEXT TIME ON HOME AGAIN
WE'RE WORKING ON OUR SIDING.
WE'LL SHOW YOU A DETAIL
FOR A GABLE END
CALLED A SUNBURST DETAIL,
CREATED WITH CLAPBOARDS.
INSIDE THE HOUSE
WE'LL PUT DOWN
LARGE FORMAT, 12 BY 12
CERAMIC TILES.
OFF THE MASTER BEDROOM
WE'RE FINISHING OFF THE DECK,
PUTTING IN FOUR
PRE-FABRICATED PANELS.
SO DON'T MISS IT.
NEXT TIME ON HOME AGAIN.
I'M BOB VILA.
NEXT HOME AGAIN,
A SUNBURST IN CLAPBOARDS
AND A SPECIAL DECK DETAIL.
OK, HERE'S SOME MORE
OF THESE.
WHAT I LIKE ABOUT
THESE TILES
THAT WE'RE USING
IN THIS BATHROOM
IS THE FORMAT.
THEY'RE 12 INCH
BY 12 INCH,
AND THEY'RE PURE WHITE.
THEY'RE MADE IN IOWA.
REAL HARD MATERIAL.
ONLY A QUARTER-INCH THICK.
IT'S A GLAZED TILE
WITH A CERAMIC
GLAZING ON THE TOP.
LET'S TALK ABOUT HOW WE'RE
INSTALLING IT, LARRY.
WE'VE PUT ON THIS SUBSTRATE
OR UNDERLAYMENT
THAT'S A CEMENTICIOUS
BOARD, RIGHT?
WE DID THAT
THE OTHER DAY.
WHAT WE DO
AFTER THAT POINT
IS SNAP
A REFERENCE LINE,
WHICH IS
THE BLUE LINE,
DOWN THE MIDDLE
OF THE ROOM.
WE HAVE A FEW
BUSY AREAS
AND WE WANT
THE GROUT LINE
TO REMAIN PARALLEL
WITH YOUR VANITY
IN THE FRONT
OF YOUR SHOWER.
YOU SAID DOWN
THE MIDDLE OF THE ROOM,
BUT IT LOOKS OFFSET.
IT'S GONNA BE
OFFSET A TAB.
THIS IS
SIX FEET WIDE.
IT'S APPROXIMATELY
6 FEET BY 11 1/2.
WE WANT TO CUT AS
FEW TILES AS POSSIBLE
SO THAT IT APPEARS
BETTER TO THE EYE,
A NICE, STRAIGHT
REFERENCE LINE
DOWN THE MIDDLE.
AND YOU TAKE UP
A COUPLE OF FEET
WITH THE VANITY
AND THE TOILETS.
YOU'RE REALLY LOOKING
AT FOUR FEET,
AND YOU WANT A PERFECTLY
SQUARE GRID.
THAT'S WHY WE'VE COME DOWN
TWO FEET HERE.
I'M ABOUT TO LAY OUT
FOR THIS TRICKY CUT
AROUND THE SHOWER
AND WHERE THE WALL BOARD
MEETS THE SHOWER.
WHY HAVE YOU STARTED
IN THIS CORNER?
WHY HAVE YOU STARTED
BUTTING UP AGAINST
THE TUB?
WHY NOT COME OFF
THIS LENGTH OF WALL
WITH THE TILE?
IF I DID THAT,
I'D HAVE TO
ADD A STRIP
IN FRONT
OF THE SHOWER,
WHICH WE WANT TO
AVOID AT ALL COST
BECAUSE IT'S A BUSY
AREA WITH WATER.
BIG TILES ARE
THE WAY TO BE.
YOU WANT
FULL TILES THERE.
SHOW US HOW
YOU'LL SCRIBE THE TILE
TO FIT INTO
THAT CORNER.
THERE'S THREE
TRANSITION POINTS--
A CURVE, AND HERE,
THE DRY WALL
WHERE THE PLASTER
COMES IN.
THERE'S THREE
DIFFERENT PLANES.
THE METHOD
WE LIKE THE MOST
IS TO LAY
A TILE DOWN
THAT IS EVENTUALLY
GOING TO BE THE ONE
THAT YOU CUT TO FIT
INTO THIS AREA.
THE WAY I DO THAT
IS I USE ANOTHER TILE
AND LAY IT RIGHT
ON TOP OF IT.
YOU DON'T NEED
A MEASURING STICK
OR A SCRIBE,
OR ANYTHING.
WE USE GREASE PENCIL
SO THAT IT SHOWS UP
IN THE WATER
FROM THE TILE SAW.
I'LL DRAW A LINE
RIGHT THERE.
IT'S THAT POINT
AND THE SECTION
TO THE WALL.
THAT'S RIGHT.
I'M ALLOWING FOR
A GROUT LINE, TOO.
THIS POINT WILL BE
GOING UP TO THERE.
AND THIS WILL SHOW
THIS CURVE...
IS BASICALLY THERE.
WHAT'S INTERESTING IS
YOU LINE THIS UP
WITH THE FIRST TILE,
NOT WITH THIS BACK TILE.
RIGHT. THIS EDGE
IS ACTUALLY GOING
TO BE HERE.
I'M GOING TO SLIDE
THIS TILE AFTER
IT'S CUT...
SLIDE IT RIGHT IN.
THIS EDGE WILL BE
IN LINE WITH THIS
LINE OF TILE.
MY PARTNER LEO
HAS THE TILE SAW.
I'LL TAKE IT IN.
HI, LEO.
I GOT ANOTHER ONE FOR YOU.
OK, BOB.
THIS ONE IS TRICKY.
HOW DOES THIS SAW WORK?
BOB, THIS IS
A WATER SAW.
THERE'S WATER IN
THE BOTTOM, HERE.
THE PUMP PUMPS
THE WATER ONTO THE TOP
AND PULLS
THE DIAMOND BLADE.
YOU GOTTA KEEP
IT COOL, RIGHT?
CORRECT.
HOW WILL YOU
CUT THIS ONE?
I'LL DO THE STRAIGHT
CUTS ON HERE.
LARRY WILL DO
THE ROUND CUTS.
WE'LL CUT
THE LONG CUT FIRST,
THEN WE'LL BRING
THE OTHER CUT
DOWN TO HERE.
I'LL WATCH.
HERE YOU GO, BOB.
HOW WILL YOU GET
THE REST OF IT OFF?
HE'LL NIP
THAT RIGHT OFF.
THANKS.
WOW, YOU'VE GOT ANOTHER
EIGHT OF THESE DOWN!
THAT'S PRETTY QUICK.
THAT'S THE ADVANTAGE
YOU HAVE
WITH 12-INCH SQUARE
TILES.
YOU COVER MORE AREA.
CAN YOU SHOW US
HOW TO NIP THAT AWAY?
LET'S SEE IF WE
CAN DO THIS.
THAT'S OFF TO WASTE,
AND THAT'S
THE FIRST CORNER.
WE'LL GO DOWN TO
THE END OF THIS CUT.
NOW YOU HAVE
TO WORM YOUR WAY
TO THE CURVE.
LET'S SEE
HOW THAT FITS
BEFORE WE GO
ANY FURTHER.
THERE'S NO MUD
UNDER THIS YET.
LOOKS PRETTY GOOD
FROM HERE.
LET ME ASK YOU
ABOUT THESE SPACERS
THAT GO IN
THE JOINTS.
YOU KEEP THEM IN PLACE
AFTER THEY SET?
WE TAKE THEM OUT
AFTERWARDS
BECAUSE SUCH
A THIN TILE,
WE LIKE TO FILL IT UP
WITH AS MUCH GROUT
AS POSSIBLE.
STICK AROUND.
WE'LL BE BACK
AFTER THESE MESSAGES.
WE'RE LOOKING AT
A FINISHED SECTION
OF OUR DECKING MATERIAL
OFF THE MASTER BEDROOM.
WE'LL SHOW YOU
HOW IT'S BUILT,
BUT THIS
14-BY-1O FOOT AREA,
THIS SMALL TERRACE
OR DECK,
IS DIRECTLY OVER
THE KITCHEN DOWNSTAIRS.
YOU CAN'T JUST NAIL
A WOODEN DECK
INTO THE ROOF AND
NOT EXPECT A FAILURE.
WE HAVE A RUBBER
ROOFING MEMBRANE.
THE WAY WE'RE CREATING
THE DECKING
IS TO BUILD FOUR
INDEPENDENT SECTIONS
OF DECKING MATERIAL
AND SIMPLY LAY THEM DOWN
WITHOUT ANY KIND
OF FASTENERS.
WHAT YOU SEE IS
THE FRAMING FOR ONE OF THESE,
MADE OUT OF PRESSURE-TREATED
2 BY 4s.
THE EDGE IS JUST A 2 BY 4
RIPPED ON THE TABLE SAW.
ON THE BOTTOM, IN ORDER
TO CUSHION THE MATERIAL
AND HAVE IT SIT QUIETLY
ON TOP OF THE RUBBER ROOFING,
WE'VE ADDED ANOTHER TYPE
OF RUBBER PADDING.
LET'S TAKE A CLOSER LOOK
AT THAT INSIDE.
LET'S MEET KEN LENNOX,
ONE OF LARRY'S
CONTRACTORS.
HOW ARE YOU?
I WAS JUST LOOKING
AT THIS OUT THERE.
WHAT KIND OF MATERIAL
IS THIS, KEN?
IT'S A RUBBER WALKWAY
FOR COMMERCIAL ROOFS.
IT COMES IN
3 BY 3 SHEETS.
WE RIP THEM UP.
EXPENSIVE STUFF?
NO, ABOUT $13 A SHEET.
THAT'S GOOD TO KNOW.
I GUESS
YOU HAVE TO GET THAT
AT A SPECIAL SUPPLY
HOUSE FOR COMMERCIAL
ROOFING.
WHAT'S THE NATURE
OF THE CEMENT
WE'RE PUTTING DOWN?
IT'S RUBBER
CONTACT ADHESIVE.
YOU HAVE TO WAIT
FOR 15 MINUTES
BEFORE YOU START
PUTTING
THE TWO PIECES BACK
TOGETHER, RIGHT?
YES. YOU APPLY
THE GLUE TO BOTH
SURFACES,
WAIT 15 MINUTES,
AND STICK.
IS THIS READY
TO GO ON OVER HERE?
YES.
IT'S NOT TACKY ANYMORE,
AND THAT'S THE KEY.
ONCE THIS TYPE
OF CEMENT IS
NO LONGER TACKY,
YOU CAN PUT IT DOWN.
ONCE YOU PUT IT DOWN,
YOU DON'T GET TO MOVE
IT AROUND MUCH.
OK. WHAT HAVE YOU DONE
ON THE FLIP SIDE
OF THE FRAME?
I PUT DOWN SOME
PAPER STRIPS
AND SET UP A CHALK LINE.
WHY DO YOU NEED
THE FELT PAPER?
JUST A CUSHION
FOR THE WOOD.
A LITTLE ADDED
PROTECTION.
YOU'VE GOT A CHALK LINE
DOWN THE MIDDLE.
YEAH. I NEED ONE MORE.
I'LL GIVE YOU A HAND.
WHAT DOES
THE CHALK LINE DO?
THIS LINES UP
MY FIRST BOARD.
SO YOU'VE GOT A MARK
ON EITHER END
WHICH IS HALF
OF THE WIDTH OF ONE
OF THESE BOARDS.
NOW WE KNOW THAT WHEN
WE SET THE FIRST
BOARD DOWN IN PLACE...
IT'LL COME DOWN
RIGHT ON THE CORNER.
GOOD. LET'S START
NAILING IT.
WE'RE USING
ANNULAR RING NAILS,
WHICH GIVE IT A LOT
OF GRIP.
NOW, WE ALWAYS USE
A NAIL AS A SPACER,
AND WE ALWAYS TRY
TO KEEP A SPACE
IN BETWEEN THESE NAILS.
IF YOU BUTT THESE
BOARDS ALL TOGETHER,
THE RAIN
CAN'T GET THROUGH
AND YOU'LL PUDDLE UP.
AND YOU ALSO WANT
TO GIVE SOME SPACE
FOR EXPANSION
AND CONTRACTION.
ALL RIGHT.
WE'LL TRIM ALL FOUR
SIDES OF THE DECK
SO THAT WE CAN PUT
A PICTURE FRAME AROUND IT
THAT'S HALF THE WIDTH
OF ONE OF THESE BOARDS.
DO WE NEED TO PUT DOWN
A LEDGER FIRST,
A GUIDE, FIRST?
SET UP A GUIDE, YES.
THAT'S WHAT
THIS MARK IS FOR.
A PONY CLAMP WILL
HOLD IT IN PLACE
BEFORE WE BRING
OUR POWER SAW
INTO THE OPERATION.
OK. LET'S MAKE SURE
THAT THE MITER'S GOOD
AT THIS CORNER.
IT LOOKS NICE.
IS THAT ALL RIGHT?
PUT A MARK OVER THERE.
AND WE DON'T HAVE
TO TRANSFER THE ANGLE
BECAUSE THE ELECTRIC
MITER BLOCK IS
ALREADY SET.
LOOKS GOOD.
AND JUST TACK IT.
THEN, WE'LL GO TO
THE OTHER SIDE.
OK. THAT'S IT?
THAT'S IT.
A LITTLE BIT TO YOU...
NICE.
WE'RE GOING TO BREAK
FOR SOME MESSAGES.
WHEN WE RETURN,
WE'LL SHOW YOU
HOW THE WHOLE
DECK LOOKS.
BOY! THERE WE GO.
A NICE FIT.
THAT WRAPS THINGS UP.
NEXT WEEK, WE'LL INSTALL
THE VANITY IN THAT BATHROOM
AND WE'LL GO TO MIAMI
TO VISIT VIZCAYA,
AN ITALIAN
RENAISSANCE PALACE.
I'M BOB VILA. IT'S GOOD
TO HAVE YOU HOME AGAIN.
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