Home > Bob on TV > Home Again > Victorian Restoration > Skylight Installation, Roofing and Painting > 1219 Transcript

Home Again
1219 - Skylight Installation, Roofing and Painting
January 7-13, 2002 | July 8-14, 2002
HI. I'M BOB VILA.

WELCOME HOME AGAIN
TO OUR REMODELING PROJECT
HERE IN MEDFORD, MASSACHUSETTS.

TODAY WE'RE PUTTING
A COPPER ROOF,
A STANDING SEAM ROOF,

ON TOP OF THE BREEZEWAY.

WE'RE ALSO PUTTING
SOME EXTERIOR PAINT
ON THE HOUSE,

TAKING A LOOK
AT A TUBULAR SKYLIGHT

AND A BEAUTIFUL GLASS
GABLE END PEAK WINDOW.

STICK AROUND. IT'S GOOD
TO HAVE YOU HOME AGAIN.

OK. WE'RE GONNA GET STARTED
TODAY UP ON THE THIRD FLOOR,

WHICH ORIGINALLY WAS MOSTLY
ATTIC STORAGE SPACE
AND ONE BEDROOM,

AND THE BEDROOM WAS PROBABLY
A 19th-CENTURY MAID'S ROOM,
IF YOU WILL.

IT HAD 3 WINDOWS,
A NICE LITTLE BAY
FEATURE OVER HERE.

NOW WHAT WE'RE DOING IS WE'RE
MAKING IT STILL A BEDROOM,

BUT WE'RE OPENING IT UP
AND INSTALLING BIG FLUSH
PIVOTING DOORS HERE.

THE OPENING WILL BE, I THINK,
ABOUT 7 OR 8 FEET,

AND INSTEAD OF BEING HINGED
AGAINST THE WALL,

THEY'RE PIVOTED TOP AND BOTTOM
SOMEWHERE ALONG THAT LENGTH

SO THAT THEY CAN BE KEPT OPEN

AND REALLY WORK
AS GALLERY SPACE,
A PLACE TO HANG ART.

AND THEN THE OTHER
MAJOR CHANGE IS,

WE TOOK OUT THE LITTLE WINDOW
AND PUT IN A LITTLE PAIR
OF FRENCH DOORS

SO THAT IF YOU'RE USING THIS
AS A DAY ROOM,

AS A LITTLE UPSTAIRS DEN
OR WHATEVER,

YOU'VE GOT THE GREAT OUTDOORS
RIGHT IN FRONT OF YOU.

THERE'LL BE A LITTLE BIT
OF A WOODEN RAILING PUT HERE
FOR SAFETY, OBVIOUSLY.

SO LET'S SAY HI
TO CHARLIE TOMASZEWSKI,
OUR CONTRACTOR.

HOW ARE YOU,
CHARLIE?
GOOD.

AND YOU'RE INSTALLING--

WHAT IS IT, AN ODL
TUBULAR SKYLIGHT, RIGHT?

CORRECT.

THIS IS A GREAT
DO-IT-YOURSELF PROJECT.

PRETTY SIMPLE
PROJECT.

IT'S JUST CUTTING
A HOLE IN THE ROOF

AND PUTTING THE PARTS
TOGETHER, RIGHT?
.
THAT'S ALL IT IS.

WHAT HAVE YOU DONE
SO FAR?

SO FAR WHAT WE'VE DONE
IS THAT WE'VE MADE
THE HOLE IN THE ROOF,

WE'VE INSTALLED
THIS FLANGE

THAT SITS RIGHT ON TOP
OF THE ROOF.

AND IT'S ONE PIECE,
SO YOU REALLY HAVE
VERY LITTLE CHANCE

OF ANY WATER
COMING THROUGH.

YEP. NO STEP FLASHING
INVOLVED.

AND WE TAKE
A REFLECTIVE TUBE,

AND WE PUT IT
THROUGH THE FLANGE,

AND THEN WE BRING BACK
THE SOLAR LENS THAT GOES
ON TOP OF IT.

SO THE CAP IS
AN ACRYLIC BUBBLE, REALLY.

RIGHT.

AND IT'S UP ON THE ROOF,
AND IT HAS A LENS IN IT--

REFLECTIVE LENS
THAT REFLECTS DOWN
THROUGH THE TUBE.

AND THEN THE TUBING
THAT GOES IN
THROUGH THE ATTIC SPACE--

IS RIGHT HERE.

AND IT'S GOT A PROTECTIVE
FILM ON IT.

IT'LL PEEL AWAY.

JUST LIKE A MIRROR.

OK. NOW HOW DO THEY
GO TOGETHER?

WE JUST FASTEN
THESE TWO TOGETHER
HERE.

SIMPLE PROCEDURE.

AND DO THEY GET
TAPED TOGETHER?

YEP. WE HAVE
A REFLECTIVE TAPE.

IF YOU COULD JUST
HOLD IT UP IN HERE.

SURE.

THEN WE CAN SLIDE IT
OUT A LITTLE BIT.

MAKE SURE WE HAVE
OUR SPOT.

YOU'VE ALREADY
MARKED IT.

A SLIGHT MARKING.

THESE ARE ARTICULATED,
AND YOU CAN BEND THEM
A LITTLE BIT

TO ADJUST FOR ANY KIND
OF FRAMING THAT MIGHT BE
IN YOUR WAY,

AND IN THIS CASE,
WE DO HAVE A LITTLE BIT
OF FRAMING TO AVOID.

WE HAVE FRAMING
AND HVAC PIPES
THAT ARE IN THE WAY.

SO WE'LL JUST PUT
A LITTLE PIECE THERE,

COME AROUND THE SIDE,
AND A LITTLE PIECE
RIGHT ON HERE.

OK. WE'RE ALL SET.

ALL RIGHT. NOW,
THAT GOES THROUGH--

YOU'VE ALREADY CUT
A PLYWOOD COLLAR
FOR THIS, RIGHT?

RIGHT, SO THAT
WE CAN BE ABLE TO
CUT OUR drywall,

SCREW OUR
drywall ON.

AND WE JUST TAKE
OUR COLLAR HERE,

PUT IT RIGHT UP
INTO OUR FRAMING
OPENING.

THERE YOU GO.

AND JUST SCREW IT
RIGHT TOGETHER.

AND WE'RE ALL SET.

THE FRAMING.

AND LET'S TAKE
OUR SKYLIGHT.

TUBULAR HERE.

EXCELLENT.

NOW ALL OF THAT SUNLIGHT

IN JUST
A 14-INCH-DIAMETER TUBE

IS MIRRORED DOWN
INTO THE LIVING SPACE.

ALL RIGHT. SO ONCE
THE CEILING IS PLASTERED,

YOU ATTACH THIS FLANGE
AND THIS TRIM KIT TO IT.

AND HOLD IT UP
FOR JUST A SECOND
SO WE GET THE IDEA.

IT'S JUST LIKE HAVING
A LIGHT FIXTURE ON,
EXCEPT NO ELECTRICITY.

VERY NICE. NOW BEFORE
WE LEAVE THE THIRD FLOOR,

THE ARCHITECT'S DESIGN
ORIGINALLY CALLED FOR THERE
TO BE ONE BIG GLASS TRIANGLE

IN THIS GABLE END.

THE IDEA WAS GOING TO
INVOLVE A LOT OF
STRUCTURAL REWORKING,

SO WHAT WE HAVE IS TWO
TRIANGULAR WINDOWS
FROM PELLA,

AND WE'VE MAINTAINED
2-BY-4s IN THE MIDDLE

SO THAT STRUCTURALLY
THIS IS ALL STILL SOUND.

BUT MATT ALEXANDER,
OUR CARPENTER,

WAS PUTTING THIS IN PLACE
JUST A FEW DAYS AGO.
LET'S WATCH.

Vila, voice-over: FIRST,
MATT REMOVED THE EXTERIOR
WALL COVERING FROM THE AREA.

THEN, USING A CHALK LINE,
HE MARKED THE OPENING
FOR THE WINDOWS

ACCORDING TO THE ARCHITECT'S
SPECIFICATIONS.

HE CUT AWAY THE SHEATHING
USING A RECIPROCATING SAW

TO CREATE
THE TRIANGULAR OPENINGS.

NEXT, MATT FOLDED OUT
THE NAILING FLANGE
ON THESE CUSTOM WINDOWS.

THEY'RE ALUMINUM-CLAD
WITH DOUBLE GLAZED,
ARGON-FILLED LOW-E GLASS.

WITH THESE CONTEMPORARY WINDOWS,
IT'S JUST A MATTER OF NAILING
THE FLANGE TO THE SHEATHING

TO COMPLETE THE INSTALLATION.

NOW, WHEN THIS IS ALL PLASTERED
AND PAINTED OUT WHITE,

BETWEEN THE TRIANGLE UP THERE
AND THE TWO VELUX ROOF WINDOWS,
ONE ON EITHER SIDE HERE,

WE'RE GOING TO HAVE
A VERY BRIGHT ROOM UP HERE.

Vila: COMING UP NEXT,
A STANDING SEAM COPPER ROOF

FOR THE BREEZEWAY.

STICK AROUND.



Vila: ALL RIGHT. NOW
WE'RE GOING TO LEARN

ALL ABOUT STANDING
SEAM COPPER ROOFING

WITH BOB FULMER
FROM HARRASEEKET
ROOFING.

AND WELCOME
TO MEDFORD.

YOU'RE DOWN
FROM MAINE, RIGHT?

YES, THAT'S CORRECT.

NOW, THIS IS,
I'M TOLD,

THE OLDEST
TYPE OF ROOFING
IN THE WORLD.

IS THAT RIGHT?

YES. IT DATES BACK
A NUMBER OF CENTURIES.

THE OLDEST FORM
OF COPPER ROOFING

IS DOUBLE-LOCK
STANDING SEAM.

PROBABLY THE OLDEST
EXAMPLE IN THE U.S.

IS ON CHRIST CHURCH
IN PHILADELPHIA.

CHRIST CHURCH
IN PHILADELPHIA.

BUT OF COURSE,
THOSE OF US
AND OUR VIEWERS

WHO HAVE BEEN
TO EUROPE

KNOW THAT IT'S
ALSO A PRODUCT

THAT'S BEEN USED
FOR CENTURIES.

YEAH.

NOW, WHAT DO YOU
START WITH?

BEFORE YOU PUT
THE BEAUTIFUL,
SHINY COPPER,

WE HAVE
A PLYWOOD DECK,

AND WE'VE GOT
A LAYER OF
BITUTHENE...

THAT'S CORRECT.

MOISTURE RESISTANCE.
AND THEN WHAT?

AND THEN WHAT WE HAVE
IS A RESIN SLIP SHEET,
A RESIN PAPER SLIP SHEET.

WHY DO YOU
NEED THAT?

WHY COULDN'T YOU
JUST PUT THE COPPER

DIRECTLY
ON THE PLYWOOD

OR DIRECTLY
ON THE BITUTHENE?

THERE'S TWO
CONSIDERATIONS HERE.

ONE IS THAT THERE'S
A CERTAIN AMOUNT
OF CONDENSATION

THAT'S GENERATED
ON THE BACK SIDE
OF THE PANELS

DURING THERMAL EXCHANGES
THROUGHOUT THE DAY.

THE RESIN PAPER
SLIP SHEET HELPS ABSORB
THAT CONDENSATION,

BUT MORE IMPORTANTLY,

IN THE CASE OF ANY
ASPHALT-BASED UNDERLAYMENT
OR BITUTHENE,

IT INSULATES THE COPPER
FROM ACTUALLY
TOUCHING THAT.

THE SLIP DOES?

YES, IT DOES.

BECAUSE IF YOU HAD
INTERACTION

BETWEEN THE COPPER
AND THE ASPHALT,
WHAT WOULD HAPPEN?

WELL, A LITTLE BIT OF WATER,
STANDING WATER,
ON AN ASPHALT PRODUCT

CREATES A DILUTED FORM
OF SULFURIC ACID,

AND THOSE SULFATES
ARE WHAT DEGRADES
THE COPPER.

I SEE. WELL, KEITH
IS READY TO PUT
THIS ONE DOWN, RIGHT?

AND HERE YOU SEE HOW
THEY WILL INTERLOCK.

SO YOU PUT THE CLIPS
DOWN ON THE NEXT SIDE

BEFORE YOU DO
ANY CRIMPING?

YEP.

YEAH.

NOW, BOB, TRADITIONALLY,
THESE BENDS OR FOLDS
IN THE COPPER SHEET

ARE DONE BY A MACHINE
CALLED A BRAKE.

THAT'S CORRECT.

DO YOU BRING
THE BRAKE ON SITE,

OR HOW DOES THAT
WORK?

WELL, WE HAVE A SMALL BRAKE
THAT WE BRING ON SITE

FOR USE FOR FLASHING DETAILS
AND SMALLER PANELS.

THESE PARTICULAR PANELS
ARE BRAKE-FORMED

ON A FLOOR BRAKE,
A LARGE FLOOR BRAKE
AT OUR SHOP.

Vila: OK.

NOW, WHAT'S THIS
TOOL CALLED?

THAT'S A SEAMER.

A SEAMER. MM-HMM.

WHAT THE SEAMER'S
DOING HERE, BOB,

IT'S A DOUBLE-LOCK
STANDING SEAM.

THERE'S A TWO-STEP
PROCESS.

THIS FIRST PROCESS
IS LOCKING THE MALE
OVER TOP OF THE FEMALE SEAM

AND FINISHES THE FIRST LOCK.

THE SECOND SEAMER
NOW COMES ALONG

AND WILL FINISH
THE SECOND LOCK

OF THE DOUBLE-LOCK PROCESS.

THEN THE MATERIAL WILL HAVE
ONE PROFILE AN INCH HIGH

AND DOUBLE-LOCKED
AT THE TOP.

LITTLE HAND CRIMPERS
TO TAKE CARE OF THAT.

MM-HMM.

EXACTLY. THERE YOU GO.
SEE HOW IT'S ROLLED OVER THERE.

AND THAT IS
A STANDING SEAM.

YES.

IT'S A FINISHED
DOUBLE-LOCK STANDING SEAM.

AND OF COURSE,
YOU CAN DO THIS
IN PLAIN COPPER.

WHAT GRADE OF COPPER
ARE WE USING HERE?

WE'RE USING 16-OUNCE.

COPPER IS NORMALLY
SPEC'D AND SOLD
WITH AN OUNCE RATING,

AND WHAT THAT MEANS IS,
16-OUNCE REFERS TO

ONE SQUARE FOOT
OF THIS COPPER
WEIGHS 16 OUNCES.

NOW, BOB, WHAT'S
THE LIFE EXPECTANCY

OF A COPPER ROOF
LIKE THIS?

A 16-OUNCE
STANDING SEAM COPPER ROOF
IN THIS APPLICATION,

75 YEARS WOULD BE
A REASONABLE
EXPECTATION FOR THAT.

AND HOW MUCH
OF A FACTOR

IS THE PROPER
INSTALLATION?

PROPER INSTALLATION
IS CRITICAL.

THE PRIMARY CAUSES
FOR THE FAILURE
OF ANY COPPER INSTALLATION,

WHETHER IT'S A COPPER ROOF
OR A COPPER GUTTER,

IS LACK OF A PROVISION
FOR THERMAL EXPANSION.

ANY COPPER PANEL CAN'T BE
PERMANENTLY ATTACHED
TO THE ROOF.

IF YOU NAIL THROUGH IT
OR ATTACH IT WITH SCREWS,

ITS MOVEMENT IS INHIBITED
ON A DAILY BASIS.

IT CREATES STRESS
IN THE PANEL,

AND IT WILL EVENTUALLY BREAK,
EITHER AT THE JOINTS

OR AT THE BENDS
IN THE COPPER.

THAT GETS
BENT DOWN JUST
WITH A HAND CRIMPER?

YES. THAT'S CORRECT.

IT'S BENT RIGHT AROUND
THAT LIP ON THE DRIP EDGE.
THAT'S HOW IT'S LOCKED ON.

ALL RIGHT. NOW,
IN THIS CLUTTER
OF TOOLS HERE,

WE HAVE WHAT'S KNOWN
AS THE VALLEY,

WHERE TWO SLOPES
OF A ROOF MEET.

HOW DO YOU DEAL
WITH THE COPPER
THERE?

WELL, AGAIN, BOB,
IT'S CRITICAL

TO LOCK
THE COPPER PANELS,

AND IN ORDER TO DO THAT,

WE ACTUALLY BEND
A LOCK INTO--

THIS IS A SINGLE
PIECE OF COPPER--

AND WE ACTUALLY BEND
THE LOCK ON THE BREAK
RIGHT INTO THE PIECE,

AND THAT ENABLES US
TO LOCK OUR PANELS

ONTO THE LOCK
THAT'S BUILT IN.

NOW, ANOTHER
IMPORTANT PART OF
THE INSTALLATION

IS WHAT KIND
OF FASTENERS
YOU USE,

WHAT KIND OF NAILS.

EXACTLY. THESE ARE
NUMBER 10 WIRE COPPER
SLATER'S NAILS.

THEY'RE SOLID COPPER.

IF YOU USED
ANOTHER METAL,
WHAT WOULD HAPPEN?

ELECTROLYSIS
WOULD SET UP.

DISSIMILAR METALS--
WHEN WORKING WITH COPPER,

YOU HAVE TO KEEP
WITHIN THE COPPER GENRE
OR BRASS OR BRONZE.

Vila: WHEN WE COME BACK,
WE'LL BE SOLDERING THE JOINTS

ON THE COPPER GUTTERS,
SO DON'T GO AWAY.



NEXT TIME
ON BOB VILA'S HOME AGAIN,

WE'RE INSTALLING
A TUBULAR SKYLIGHT

AT OUR FARMHOUSE PROJECT
IN MEDFORD, MASSACHUSETTS.

WE'LL ALSO BE LOOKING
AT THE TRIANGULAR WINDOWS
IN THE GABLE END WALL.

AND WE'LL BE PUTTING
A STANDING SEAM COPPER ROOF
ON THE BREEZEWAY.

WE'LL SEE HOW PROPER
INSTALLATION IS THE KEY

TO THE LONGEVITY
OF A COPPER ROOF,

WE'LL SOLDER SOME JOINTS
ON THE GUTTERS FOR THE ADDITION,

AND I'LL BE TALKING
WITH THE PAINTERS

ABOUT GETTING A COAT OF PAINT
ON THIS HOUSE.

SO DON'T MISS IT.
THAT'S NEXT TIME ON HOME AGAIN.



NEXT TIME
ON BOB VILA'S HOME AGAIN,

IT'S A STANDING SEAM
COPPER ROOF,

TRIANGULAR WINDOWS,
AND A TUBULAR SKYLIGHT.

DON'T MISS IT.



ALL RIGHT. NOW LET'S
TALK WITH BOB FULMER, SR.,

AND, BOB, YOU'RE
GOING TO SHOW US
ALL ABOUT THE GUTTER

AND THE TYPE OF GUTTER
THAT WE'RE PUTTING IN HERE.

WHAT DO YOU CALL THIS?

Bob Jr.:
THIS IS 16-OUNCE,

SINGLE BEAD HALF-ROUND
COPPER GUTTER.

Vila: HALF-ROUND,
SINGLE BEAD ON THE FRONT.

AND THAT MEANS

IT'LL GO INTO--DO YOU
CALL THESE DOGS,

OR WHAT DO YOU CALL
THESE HANGERS?

Bob Jr.: THOSE ARE
CIRCLE-TYPE FASCIA
HANGERS.

Vila: AND, BOB,
WHAT ARE YOU DOING
NEXT TO IT?

Bob Sr.:
WELL, WE HAVE TO PUT
THE OUTLET IN,

IS THE NEXT STEP.

THE OUTLET
FOR THE--

FOR THE DOWNSPOUT.

OK.

AS SOON AS I FIND IT.

THERE IT IS.

SO YOU GOT TO
FIGURE OUT EXACTLY WHERE--

SO WHAT WE HAVE TO DO

IS SET THIS ON HERE...

AND GET IT
SO IT'S PERPENDICULAR
WITH THE END CAP.

YOU DON'T PUT IT
BACK THERE.

YOU DON'T PUT IT
OUT THERE.

IT NEEDS TO SET...

PLUMB.
PLUMB.

SO HOW DO YOU
MAKE THE CUT?

HOW DO YOU CUT
THE CIRCLE?

WELL, WE HAVE TO
PUNCH A HOLE...

Bob Jr.: WHICH ONE?

YOU'LL NEED THEM BOTH.

Vila: AND THEN
YOU JUST SNIP OUT WITH--

YEAH. WE TAKE
OUR AVIATION SNIPS.

THEY'RE REALLY
CALLED CLINKS.

AND WE HAVE TO
CUT THIS CIRCLE OUT.

KEEP GOING
AROUND IN A CIRCLE

TILL YOU GET IT
BIG ENOUGH.

Vila: YOU'RE REALLY
GOING AROUND,

ALMOST CUTTING A SPIRAL
TILL YOU GET IT
BIG ENOUGH.

YES. THAT'S THE ONLY
WAY YOU CAN BASICALLY
DO THAT.

ALL RIGHT.
AND SO THE HOLE
IS CUT OUT.

AND NOW THIS WOULD FIT IN
FROM THE TOP SIDE,
RIGHT?

YES, SIR.

NOW, WE'VE TALKED ABOUT
HOW CONNECTING
ONE PIECE TO THE OTHER

IS A PROBLEM WITH METALWORK
BECAUSE OF EXPANSION
AND CONTRACTION.

WHAT WILL YOU DO HERE?

Bob Jr.: WE'RE GOING TO
SOLDER THAT OUTLET

INTO THE BOTTOM
OF THE HALF-ROUND
GUTTER

TO ACHIEVE A WATERTIGHT
CONNECTION.

Bob Sr.: ALL RIGHT,
NOW WE HAVE TO PUT
THE FLUX ON HERE...

Vila: RIGHT.

TO MAKE THE SOLDER
STICK.

UH-OH. I SEE THAT IRON
HAD GOTTEN TOO HOT.
IT'S BURNT.

IT HAS TO BE FILED.

THIS ONE'S SHINY,
SO THAT ONE WILL SOLDER.

Vila: SO IF IT'S SHINY,
IT'LL SOLDER.

YES.

IT HAS TO HAVE
A COAT OF SOLDER ON IT.

Bob Jr.: IT'S IMPORTANT
TO GET IT HOT ENOUGH
TO MELT THE SOLDER

BUT TO SWEAT IT
UNDERNEATH THE LAP JOINT.

THAT'S CRITICAL,
AND THEN ONCE IT'S
SWEATED UNDERNEATH,

A SECOND PASS IS MADE
TO BUILD UP THE LAYER
OF SOLDER.

Bob Sr.: THERE WE GO.

AND THAT DOES IT.
NOW, DOES THAT COOL OFF
RIGHT AWAY?

WELL, IN A MINUTE
OR SO.

DID YOU HEAR ME
YELL OUT?

YEAH.

I TOUCHED
THE OUTLET.

THEN I ALWAYS SOLDER--
WE ALWAYS SOLDER THIS LOCK
ON THE BACK

BECAUSE SOMETIMES
WHEN THEY BUILD UP--
IF THEY BUILD UP ICE...

YEAH.

THEN THAT'LL HAVE
A TENDENCY TO SPLIT.

BUT THIS PUTS
A STRENGTH TO IT.

ALL RIGHT.

EXCELLENT.

THEN WE SLIP
THE GUTTER IN HERE,
IN THE HANGERS.

AND THEN JUST ONE MORE
SOLDERING JOINT
AT THAT POINT.

AND THEN, BOB JR.,

HOW DO YOU FASTEN
THE WHOLE THING
DOWN TO THE HANGERS?

THE GUTTER'S SECURED
INSIDE THE CIRCLE-TYPE
HANGER

WITH A BRASS WIRE CLIP,

AND AGAIN,
WHAT THIS ALLOWS FOR

IS CONTRACTION,
EXPANSION, OR MOVEMENT
IN THE GUTTER.

TOP QUALITY.
THANKS, GENTLEMEN.

THANK YOU.

THANKS FOR COMING ON.

THANK YOU, SIR.

Vila: WE'LL BE BACK
IN A MOMENT

TO TALK ABOUT PAINTING
THE EXTERIOR

ON OUR FARMHOUSE PROJECT.



Vila: JOINING US NOW
IS AL ROBERTA

FROM A.F.J. PAINTING
COMPANIES,

AND, AL, THIS IS
NOT AN EASY HOUSE TO
TALK ABOUT PAINTING,

BECAUSE LIKE ANY OLD
NEW ENGLAND HOUSE,

IT NEEDED A LOT
OF PREP WORK, RIGHT?

Al: THAT'S TRUE, BOB.

WHAT DID YOU GUYS
HAVE TO DO?

WELL, AS YOU REALIZE,
THERE WAS A LAYER OF SIDING

THAT HAS BEEN REMOVED,
AND ESSENTIALLY
WHAT HAPPENED OVER TIME

IS THESE ORIGINAL SHINGLES
GOT PRETTY BAKED AND COOKED,
AND THEY GOT BRITTLE.

THAT'S INTERESTING.
FROM 30 OR 40 YEARS

OF HAVING
THE MANMADE SIDING
OVER THE SHINGLES,

YOU HAD A LOT
OF TEMPERATURE
BUILDUP IN THERE

THAT'S DAMAGED
THE WOOD.

EXACTLY.
IT COULDN'T BREATHE.

SO IN ESSENCE,
THE SHINGLES ARE VERY DRY
AND VERY BRITTLE.

Vila: AND WE DIDN'T
WANT TO TOTALLY STRIP
THE HOUSE

FOR BUDGET REASONS.

WE'VE REPLACE
SOME OF THE SHINGLES
IN SOME OF THE AREAS,

BUT IN OTHER AREAS
WHERE THEY WEREN'T
FALLING OFF,

WE'VE KEPT THEM.

Al: THAT'S CORRECT.
CHARLIE'S BEEN GREAT,
FOLLOWING BEHIND US.

ANYTHING THAT'S REALLY
FALLING APART ON US,

HE'S BEEN RIGHT BEHIND US
REPLACING THE SHINGLES.

NOW, IN THIS AREA,
WE'VE GOT A COMBINATION

OF SOME OF THE OLD
AND SOME OF THE NEW,

BUT ANYWAY, WHAT KIND
OF PRIMER IS GOING ON?

Al: THIS IS
AN OIL-BASED PRIMER
BY SHERWIN WILLIAMS,

AND WHAT THAT'S GOING
TO DO IS TWO THINGS.

IT'S GOING TO BASICALLY
SEAL THE HOUSE UP,

GIVING US A NICE,
HARD SHELL,

AND ALSO IT'S GOING TO
ACT AS A STAIN-BLOCKING
AGENT,

BECAUSE THE NEW CEDAR
SHINGLES HAVE A TENDENCY
TO BLEED ON US,

AND WHAT WE WANT TO DO
IS SEAL THOSE UP,

SO THAT'S GOING TO HAPPEN
WITH THE PRIMER.

SO IT'S AN OIL-BASED
PRIMER,

AND HERE HE IS,
APPLYING IT

EITHER WITH THIS
SMALL, 3-INCH ROLLER

OR WITH
THE CUTTING BRUSH.

CORRECT. YOU BASICALLY
COULD SPRAY,

BUT IN THESE CONDITIONS,
WE'D RATHER ROLL.

YOU'RE BETTER OFF
ROLLING.

RIGHT.

AND WE'VE GOT
THE PIPE STAGING
ON THAT SIDE,

BUT STILL, IT'S NOT
AN EASY JOB

TO PAINT A HOUSE
WITH THIS MANY
ANGLES AND SUCH.

AND THEN THIS
SECTION OVER HERE

HAS ALREADY GOT
THE FINISH COAT
ON IT, RIGHT?

THAT'S CORRECT.

NOW WHAT KIND--
IS THIS ALSO OIL-BASED
FINISH?

NO. THIS IS
A LATEX TOPCOAT.

IT'S A SHERWIN WILLIAMS
DURATION PRODUCT.

AND THAT GOES ON
QUITE THICK.

IT'S TWICE AS THICK
AS A NORMAL
CONVENTIONAL PAINT.

Vila: AND YOU DON'T
THIN IT OR ANYTHING.

YOU DON'T THIN IT
AT ALL.

WAS THIS PUT ON
WITH A ROLLER,

OR IS THIS BRUSHED ON?

THIS IS ROLLED
AND BACK-BRUSHED.

ROLLED
AND BACK-BRUSHED. WOW.

SO HOW BIG A JOB
IS THIS?

HOW MANY DAYS?
HOW MANY MEN?

WELL, WEATHER-PERMITTING,
AS USUAL,

WHEN YOU'RE DOING
EXTERIOR PAINT,

IF I CAN GET IN HERE
FOR 3 WEEKS,

I'LL BE HAPPY
WITH THAT.

3 WEEKS
TO GET IT DONE.

GREAT. WELL,
THANKS FOR
COMING ON.

THANK YOU, BOB.

WE'RE OUT OF TIME.
COME HOME AGAIN NEXT TIME,

WHEN WE'RE GOING TO BE
INSULATING ALL OVER THE PLACE,

INCLUDING THE CARRIAGE HOUSE,

AND LOOKING AT
SOME INTERNET-RELATED FEATURES.

TILL THEN, I'M BOB VILA.
IT'S GOOD TO HAVE YOU
HOME AGAIN.

Additional Bob Vila Showrooms
SelectBlinds.com - The window blinds and shades America trusts
SprayFoamDirect.com - Do It Yourself Spray Foam Insulation
Sears - Vinyl Siding, Eaves and Overhangs
ETO Doors - Shop for Interior & Exterior Doors - Lowest Price Guaranteed
Sears - Custom-Fit Replacement Windows and Entry Doors
CLR - Cleaners for the toughest household cleaning challenges


Carpentry, Construction & Materials
• Jacmar Carpentry - Carpentry

Doors & Windows
• ODL - Tubular Skylight
• Pella - Triangular Peak Windows
VELUX® - Skylights

Painting & Wallpapering
• Sherwin Williams - Exterior Paint

Roofing & Siding
• Harraseeket Restoration, Inc. - Copper Roofing
> View All Product Resources







About  | Press Room  | FAQ  | Contact  | Sitemap  | Privacy Policy  | Terms of Use  | Help

© 2009 BobVila.com