1222 - Work on the Driveway and Finishing the Deck
January 28-February 3, 2002 | July 29-August 4, 2002
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HI. I'M BOB VILA.
WELCOME HOME AGAIN TO OUR
LITTLE FARMHOUSE PROJECT
HERE IN MEDFORD, MASSACHUSETTS.
LOTS OF PROGRESS TODAY.
WE'RE IN THE BACK SIDE
OF THE HOUSE
INSTALLING A BEAUTIFUL
MAHOGANY DECK.
ALSO, WE'RE PUTTING DOWN
TUMBLED CONCRETE PAVERS
ALL OVER THE PLACE.
WE'RE ALSO PUTTING IN THE VENEER
PLASTER INSIDE THE HOUSE
AND A REPLACEMENT
FOR THE OLD BARN DOOR.
STICK AROUND. IT'S GOOD
TO HAVE YOU HOME AGAIN.
CAPTIONING MADE POSSIBLE BY
SEARS
NOW, THE BACKYARD DECK ON
THIS HOUSE IS 42 FEET ACROSS,
THE WHOLE WIDTH OF THE HOUSE.
IT COMES OFF 10 FEET OFF
THE BACK OF THE HOUSE.
IT'S AN UNUSUAL DESIGN.
IT'S REALLY LIKE
AN OVERSIZED BALCONY.
AND OBVIOUSLY, ALL
THE STRUCTURE'S DONE OUT OF PTL.
AND THE POSTS THAT
YOU'RE SEEING HERE
ARE NOT FOR ANY KIND
OF A RAILING.
THEY'RE ACTUALLY THE SUPPORTS
FOR POST DRESSINGS OR WRAPPINGS
THAT ARE GOING TO BE PUT ON OVER
THEM TO SUPPORT TRELLIS WORK
THAT GOES IN THIS SECTION
ON TOP OF THE FRENCH DOORS AND
ON ANOTHER SECTION OVER THERE.
IT'S A COMPLICATED
DESIGN SCHEME.
AND WHAT CHARLIE AND MATT
ARE DOING RIGHT NOW
IS BASICALLY FINISHING UP THE
PICTURE FRAME FOR THE DECKING.
THE DECKING IS GOING TO
BE MADE OUT OF BEAUTIFUL
5/4 MAHOGANY STOCK.
WHERE DO YOU NAIL IT
FIRST, CHARLIE?
YOU TAKE ONE,
JUST BRING IT ABOUT
AN INCH IN FROM THE EDGE...
AT ONE END?
AT ONE END.
NAIL THAT GUY RIGHT IN.
THEN WE NAIL THE OTHER END.
AND BEFORE WE NAIL IT
TOTALLY, WE JUST
SIGHT IT, EYEBALL IT,
MAKE SURE IT'S
WHERE IT WANTS TO BE,
GET IT WHERE IT WANTS TO BE.
Bob: IS THAT GOOD?
THERE YOU GO.
THEN WE'LL JUST COME
ALONG EVERY 16 INCHES,
GET A NAIL IN.
WE'LL DRIVE THE
HEADS ALL THE WAY...
AND THEN SET THEM
WITH A NAIL SET.
THAT'S
OUR PERIMETER.
AND THEN THE FINAL PIECE...
IS THE END ONE.
WE'LL JUST
BRING THAT IN
AT THE MITER,
NAIL THAT IN THERE.
THIS MAHOGANY'S JUST
BEAUTIFUL TO WORK WITH.
AND YOU'RE GOING
TO LEAVE IT ALONE,
JUST LEAVE IT TO THE WEATHER.
IT'LL SILVER UP
VERY BEAUTIFULLY.
VERY NICE DECK MATERIAL.
Bob: NOW WE'LL START
PUTTING IN THE DECKING
MATERIAL AT THE OTHER END.
IF LEFT UNFINISHED,
ALL THIS MAHOGANY WILL TAKE
ON A BEAUTIFUL SILVER SHEEN.
THIS IS LIGHTNING BRAND
MAHOGANY.
IT'S FROM THE PHILIPPINES,
AND IT'S FROM RENEWABLE FORESTS.
BUT IT'S A PRODUCT THAT
I PARTICULARLY LIKE FOR DECKING
BECAUSE OF THE WEARABILITY
AND BECAUSE OF THE SILVERY
COLOR IT TAKES ON.
WHAT THEY'VE DROPPED
HERE FOR US IS ABOUT
1,400 LINEAL FEET.
IT COMES TOTALLY, RANDOMLY
PACKED TOGETHER IN A LIFT,
AND THE FELLOWS HAVE
ALREADY SORTED OUT
SOME OF IT BY LENGTH.
IT GOES EVERYWHERE, I THINK,
FROM 6 FEET TO 20 FEET.
THIS IS--YEAH, THIS IS
A 20-FOOT BUNDLE RIGHT HERE,
BUT I THINK WE'LL TAKE
SOME OF THE SMALLER ONES
TO BEGIN.
ALL RIGHT, SO NOW WE'VE GOT
AN ASSORTMENT OF LENGTHS
ON THE STRUCTURE HERE.
AND WHAT'S THE ADVANTAGE
OF HAVING ALL THESE
DIFFERENT LENGTHS?
IT'LL MAKE THE JOB GO
A LOT QUICKER, BOB.
I WOULD THINK SO, YEAH,
BECAUSE WE'VE GOT 20s
ALL THE WAY DOWN TO 6s.
NOW, IS THERE ANY
PARTICULAR PATTERN
THAT YOU'RE GOING TO
LAY THEM DOWN IN?
BASICALLY,
I LIKE TO KEEP IT
WHERE I SPACE MY JOINTS
AT LEAST 32 INCHES APART.
I'LL HAVE A JOINT SIMILAR
TO LIKE HERE, AND THEN
32 INCHES AWAY AT MINIMUM.
KEEP IT THERE AND THEN
JUST KEEP GOING ON LIKE THAT.
WE JUST KEEP STAGGERING.
Bob: STAGGERING THEM
AT LEAST TWO BAYS...
AT LEAST TWO BAYS
AWAY, CORRECT.
AND AS YOU'LL NOTICE
OVER HERE,
WE'VE GOT A BUNCH OF
16-PENNY SPIKES
THAT ARE TEMPORARILY PUT IN
POSITION TO CREATE A SPACER.
THAT'S THE SPACE THAT
WE'LL USE IN BETWEEN THE BOARDS
AS WELL AS IN BETWEEN
THE BUTT ENDS OF THE BOARDS
AND THE PICTURE FRAME
THAT WE'VE ALREADY LAID OUT.
OK. CAN WE START
NAILING SOME OF THESE?
THESE ARE GOING DOWN WITH
STAINLESS STEEL NAILS--
ANNULAR RING NAILS,
2 1/2-INCH DECK NAILS.
THAT'S THE BEST WAY
TO PUT THEM IN.
WE DON'T WANT TO SET THESE
NAILS HOME WITH A HAMMER.
Bob: NO. YOU WANT
TO LEAVE THEM JUST
ON THE SURFACE
AND THEN USE
YOUR NAIL SET TO
DRIVE THEM HOME.
COME RIGHT BACK
AND SET THEM AFTERWARDS.
THAT'S TO AVOID PUTTING
ANY KIND OF DIMPLES ONTO
THIS BEAUTIFUL MAHOGANY.
NOW SOMETIMES,
THE BEST THING TO DO
WITH A BUTT END
IS TO REDRILL
TO MAKE SURE
THAT YOU DON'T SPLIT
THE END OF THE WOOD
BY DRIVING A NAIL
THAT'S THAT CLOSE
TO THE END.
WHEN WE COME BACK,
WE'LL PUT DOWN TUMBLED CONCRETE
PAVERS FOR THE BACK ENTRY.
OK. WELL, WE'RE GOING TO BE
WORKING NOW
ON THE STREET SIDE
OF THE HOUSE,
WHERE THE BARN ENTRY IS
AND THE BACK SIDE AND
THE BREEZEWAY.
WE'LL TALK IN A MINUTE
WITH THE FELLOWS THAT ARE
INSTALLING ALL THIS PRODUCT,
BUT THIS IS A TUMBLED CONCRETE
PAVING MATERIAL.
AND RIGHT NOW,
LET'S GET TOGETHER WITH
BRIAN KALLMEYER
FROM UNILOCK.
HI. HOW ARE YOU, BRIAN?
TELL US ABOUT THIS
BECAUSE, I MEAN,
CONCRETE HAS BEEN
AROUND AS A PAVING
MATERIAL FOR AWHILE,
BUT I'D NEVER HEARD
OF IT BEING TUMBLED.
RIGHT. WELL, IT STARTS OUT
AS A CONCRETE PAVER,
WHICH IS A
HIGH-DENSITY CONCRETE.
WHAT DOES THAT MEAN--
HIGH-DENSITY CONCRETE?
THE SPECIFICATION FOR THIS
IS A MINIMUM PSI OF 8,500.
TYPICALLY, IF YOU POURED
WET CONCRETE ON THE GROUND,
YOU'D BE WORKING WITH
ABOUT A 3,500 PSI MIX.
POUNDS PER SQUARE INCH.
AND HOW DO YOU ATTAIN
THAT 8,500?
WELL, WE TAKE
A PRETTY DRY MIX,
AND WHAT WE DO IS,
WE PUT IT IN A 3-STORY
MACHINE THAT PRESSES IT,
AND WE GET A VERY HIGH
COMPACTION OUT OF IT
AND COMPRESSION OUT OF IT.
TYPICALLY, OUR TESTS WILL RUN
ABOUT 10,000-11,000 PSI.
WE'RE FORTUNATE IN THIS AREA
OF SOME VERY GOOD AGGREGATES,
SO WE CAN MAKE
A REAL DENSE PRODUCT.
SO IT HAS NOTHING
TO DO WITH THE AMOUNT
OF PORTLAND
THAT GOES INTO THE MIX?
THE PERCENTAGE OF
PORTLAND IS IMPORTANT.
WE USE A STANDARD PORTLAND,
AND IT'S NO MORE THAN
A WET CONCRETE.
BUT BETWEEN THE AGGREGATE MIX
AND THE PRESS THAT WE USE,
WE CAN GET THIS DENSITY
OUT OF IT.
YEAH, AND HERE IN
NEW ENGLAND, WE HAVE
A LOT OF GRANITE,
WHICH IS
AN EXTREMELY HARD...
IT'S A NICE PRODUCT
TO WORK WITH.
I LIKE THE LOOK OF IT
BECAUSE IT DOES LOOK
LIKE SOMETHING
THAT'S BEEN HERE FOR
A LONG, LONG TIME.
WELL, THAT'S WHAT HAPPENED
ABOUT 8 YEARS AGO.
WE HAVE A LOT OF TIES
IN EUROPE,
AND THEY'RE USING A LOT OF
THIS TUMBLE PRODUCT IN EUROPE.
AND WE CAME ACROSS IT,
AND WE STARTED THROWING
THIS STUFF INTO A CEMENT MIXER
TO TRY AND SEE WHAT
IT'D LOOK LIKE ANTIQUED.
SO THERE'S
NO GREAT MYSTERY.
YOU JUST TAKE THE
FINISHED PRODUCT THAT
LOOKS SHINY AND SQUARE,
YOU THROW IT INTO
A OLD CEMENT MIXER
AND ROLL IT AROUND.
THAT'S HOW IT STARTED.
NOW IT'S GOTTEN A LOT
MORE ELABORATE
BECAUSE THE DEMAND
HAS GOTTEN SO GREAT FOR THIS.
OK. NOW, IS IT
EASY TO WORK WITH?
HOW DO YOU CUT IT?
THE NICE THING ABOUT
THE STUFF IS, "A,"
IT IS EASY TO WORK WITH
BECAUSE IT'S SO DIMENSIONALLY
STABLE VERSUS THE NATURAL STONE
THAT WE'RE TRYING TO DUPLICATE
THAT'S VERY IRREGULAR.
THESE ARE MADE IN
A MOLD, SO THEY ARE
VERY DIMENSIONALLY STABLE.
NOW, WHAT IS THIS THING?
THIS IS, BASICALLY, A LEVER
ACTION ON A GUILLOTINE CUTTER.
ALL RIGHT,
I'M GOING TO TRY IT.
OK. GIVE IT
A GOOD LITTLE PUSH DOWN.
THERE YOU GO.
A GOOD LITTLE PUSH DOWN.
HA HA HA!
OK.
AND WHAT'S NICE ABOUT IT,
IT GIVES A PRETTY CLEAN CUT.
INDEED IT DOES.
PLUS YOU EXPOSE
ALL THE AGGREGATE,
SO THAT IF YOU'RE
USING IT IN CERTAIN
APPLICATIONS,
YOU COULD SHOW THAT
AS WELL, RIGHT?
THAT'S RIGHT.
ALL RIGHT.
WELL, LET'S TAKE
A LOOK OVER HERE AND
MEET NICK PASTORE,
WHO'S THE INSTALLER
ON THE JOB.
SO, NICK,
CAN WE INTERRUPT YOU
AND TALK
A LITTLE BIT ABOUT
THE INSTALLATION?
SURE CAN. HOW YOU DOING?
NOW, WHAT'S
A CERTIFIED INSTALLER?
DID YOU HAVE TO GO
TO A SPECIAL SCHOOL?
UNILOCK HOSTS CLASSES
AT THEIR FACILITY
IN UXBRIDGE
THAT ARE PUT ON
BY UNILOCK CORPORATE
THAT MYSELF AND
MY SUPERVISORS GO TO.
NOW, DOES THIS LAY DOWN
A LOT MORE EASILY
THAN A NATURAL STONE
LIKE A BELGIAN PAVER?
IT DOES BECAUSE
IT'S ALL UNIFORM.
SO IT'S REAL NICE
TO WORK WITH.
EVERYTHING'S PRETTY WELL
SMOOTH EDGES.
IT'S SQUARE, AND IT'S
ALWAYS THE SAME DIMENSIONS.
NOW, WHAT HAVE YOU DONE
TO PREPARE THE BED HERE?
WELL, FIRST WE PUT
A COMPACTED
GRAVEL BASE DOWN,
ABOUT 12 INCHES.
WHAT WE'RE LOOKING AT NOW
IS JUST THE SAND, RIGHT?
THIS IS A SAND BED
THAT'S ACTUALLY
LAID ON TOP OF
THE COMPACTED GRAVEL.
IS THIS THE STUFF?
NO. THAT'S THE SAND
FOR THE JOINTS.
OH, I SEE. THAT'S WHAT
YOU ADD IN LATER.
WE USE JUST
A REGULAR
WASHED SAND.
THESE ARE JUST
1 1/2-INCH ALUMINUM
ELECTRICAL CONDUIT.
WHAT'S THAT DOING FOR YOU?
THAT'S ON TOP OF
THE GRAVEL BASE,
AND THAT GIVES US
THE PROPER HEIGHT.
WE SET THESE,
MAKE THEM LEVEL.
IF WE NEED TO PUT ANY
PITCH IN, WE SET THE
CONDUIT TO THE PITCH--
AND THEN YOU CAN SCREED
WITH THE 2 X 4.
CORRECT. WE FILL IN
BETWEEN IT, RUN A
STRAIGHT PIECE OF 2 X 4
OR ANYTHING WITH
A STRAIGHT EDGE OVER IT
TO SET OUR SAND BASE.
WE'LL PULL THESE OUT,
FILL IT IN,
TROWEL IT OVER,
AND THEN SET
OUR PAVERS IN PLACE.
SO IT GOES PRETTY QUICKLY.
LET'S JUST WATCH.
OK.
MATT HERE
IS LAYING THEM IN.
JUST TAP
THEM INTO PLACE.
MAKE SURE THEY'RE
ALL JOINTED TOGETHER
PRETTY GOOD.
Bob: OK. SO THE CONDUIT
HAS DONE ITS JOB,
AND NOW YOU GOT TO ADD A LITTLE
BIT OF SAND THERE, RIGHT?
JUST GOING
TO TAKE THE TROWEL
AND FILL IN THE VOID
LEFT BY THE CONDUIT.
OK.
NOW, THERE IS GOING
TO BE A FAIR AMOUNT OF
SETTLEMENT HERE, THOUGH.
YOU'RE SAYING YOU'LL
TAMP EVERYTHING DOWN.
WE'LL USE A VIBRATORY
PLATE COMPACTOR.
AND PAVEMENT FAILURE ISN'T
JUST HAVING ONE CRACK ON YOU.
BUT ALSO IF IT SETTLES
ON YOU, YOU'LL END UP WITH
A LOT OF PUDDLES IN YOUR AREA.
Brian: THE PRODUCT IS
NOT GOING TO CRACK.
IT'S A MATTER
OF THE PAVEMENT
SETTLING UNDERNEATH.
SO THE BASE NICK
WAS TALKING ABOUT,
THEY PUT DOWN
12 INCHES OF BASE HERE.
WE HAD SOME PRETTY
HEAVY SOILS HERE,
SO THEY EXCAVATED OUT
AND PUT 12 INCHES
OF BASE DOWN,
AND COMPACTING THAT
IN LIFTS IS IMPORTANT.
WE CAN'T OVEREMPHASIZE
COMPACTION.
Bob: COMPACTED AND THEN ADD
ANOTHER 2 INCHES.
Nick: CORRECT.
THAT WAY YOU HAVE
COMPACTION THROUGHOUT.
Brian: IN TIGHT AREAS
LIKE THIS,
THERE'S A LOT
OF HANDWORK WITH
MALLETS AND STUFF.
BUT TYPICALLY IN
A LARGER AREA, THEY'LL
DO IT ALL BY MACHINE.
THEY'LL LAY THE PAVERS
OUT AND THEN PUT
THE EDGER SCREEN IN
AND RUN OVER IT WITH
A COMPACTOR TO GET THEM
ALL SETTLED DOWN.
Bob: OK.
NOW, NICK, HOW DO YOU DEAL
WITH THESE CURVES HERE?
WELL, BOB, WHAT WE DO
IS WE TAKE A FULL PAVER,
AND WE'RE GOING
TO HAVE TO MARK IT,
BECAUSE OBVIOUSLY A FULL
ONE WON'T FIT IN THERE.
WE MARK IT
ON EITHER END,
AND THEN
WE TAKE A WET SAW,
AND WE CUT IT.
IT'S A STRAIGHT CUT
ON A CURVE.
IT'LL FIT IN,
AND THE JOINING SAND
WILL FILL IT IN,
SO YOU WON'T
NOTICE ANYTHING.
ALL RIGHT,
LET'S SEE HOW IT FITS.
KIND OF DROP IT
IN THERE.
YEAH, DOING MASONRY
WORK WITH MACHINES MAKES
A DIFFERENCE, I GUESS.
IT DOES.
NOW SPEAKING OF WHICH,
WE WANT TO TAMP
ALL OF THIS DOWN.
CAN YOU SHOW US
HOW THAT WORKS, BRIAN?
Brian: SURE.
Bob: AND THIS IS THE
POLYMER SAND, WHICH JUST
GETS SPREAD OUT, RIGHT?
IT'S A POLYMERIC SAND, YES.
AND TYPICALLY WHAT WE'LL DO
IS WE'LL RUN OVER IT.
Bob: SO THAT HAS TO HAPPEN
ON THE ENTIRE THING,
AND THEN MAYBE
A LOT OF RAIN WOULD HELP.
ONE LAST QUESTION--
WHAT ABOUT THE EDGES
ON AN INSTALLATION LIKE THIS?
IT'S VERY IMPORTANT.
YOU KNOW, THE DYNAMICS
OF A MODULAR PAVEMENT
IS THAT THEY
WANT TO CREEP OUTWARDS,
ESPECIALLY WHEN
YOU PUT LOADS ON THEM.
SO IT'S MOST IMPORTANT
THAT WE PUT A GOOD COMPETENT
EDGE RESTRAINT HERE.
SO THIS IS THE RESTRAINT
RIGHT HERE?
IT'S MADE OUT OF...
IT'S PVC MATERIAL.
PVC. SO YOU SIMPLY
DRIVE THE SPIKE
INTO THE GROUND,
AND THAT HOLDS IT
IN PLACE.
THAT'S CORRECT.
THE NICE THING ABOUT
THIS TYPE OF RESTRAINT
IS THAT IT ONLY PICKS UP
THE BOTTOM HALF OF THE STONE
BECAUSE, AGAIN,
WE'RE ONLY TRYING TO
KEEP IT FROM WALKING OUT.
SO IT ALLOWS YOU TO BRING
YOUR LANDSCAPING
RIGHT UP TO THE PAVEMENT
AND MAKE A CONTIGUOUS--
EXCELLENT. WELL,
COME ON, BRIAN.
LET'S SEE HOW
HE'S MAKING OUT
WITH THAT LITTLE
TERRACE OVER THERE.
THIS LOOKS GREAT, NICK.
YOU GOT ALL THE CURVED
PIECES IN PLACE.
AND NOW THIS IS THE SAME
SORT OF SAND, BUT HERE
IT JUST GETS SWEPT IN?
CORRECT. WE'RE GONNA
SWEEP IT IN,
AND THEN WE'LL RUN
THAT COMPACTOR OVER IT
AGAIN ONE FINAL TIME.
AND, UH, WHEN WE'RE
ALL SAID AND DONE,
WE'LL JUST PUT A LITTLE
WATER ON IT AND RINSE IT
RIGHT OFF.
NICE JOB. THANKS A LOT.
THANKS, BOB.
THANKS, BRIAN.
THANKS, BOB.
Bob: COMING UP NEXT,
THE MASTER SUITE
GETS A COAT OF VENEER PLASTER.
STICK AROUND.
NEXT TIME ON
BOB VILA'S HOME AGAIN,
WE'LL BE WORKING ON THE EXTERIOR
AT OUR REMODELING PROJECT
IN MEDFORD, MASSACHUSETTS.
WE'LL BE INSTALLING A BEAUTIFUL
MAHOGANY DECK
ON THE BACK SIDE OF THE HOUSE.
ALSO, WE'LL BE PUTTING DOWN
TUMBLED CONCRETE PAVERS
ON THE TERRACED BACK ENTRY.
WE'LL BE REPLACING
THE OLD BARN DOORS
WITH AN OVERSIZED SET OF DOORS
COMPLETE WITH INSULATING GLASS.
AND INSIDE, WE'LL BE APPLYING
A VENEER COAT OF PLASTER
TO ALL THE NEW WALLS.
SO DON'T MISS IT.
THAT'S NEXT TIME
ON HOME AGAIN.
NEXT TIME ON
BOB VILA'S HOME AGAIN,
IT'S A MAHOGANY DECK,
TUMBLED CONCRETE PAVERS,
AND A NEW SET OF BARN DOORS.
DON'T MISS IT.
Bob: ALL RIGHT.
DOING A PLASTER JOB
IN AN OLD HOUSE
LIKE THIS ONE
OFTEN WILL INVOLVE
PATCHING AS WELL AS
NEW WORK,
AND CHRIS BOROVKA
IS HERE FROM USG
TO EXPLAIN
A LITTLE BIT
ABOUT THE PROCESS.
WHAT ARE WE DOING
IN THIS ROOM?
WE'VE TAKEN OUT
A DOOR, SO WE'VE
GOT A BIG PATCH.
WE'VE INSULATED,
SO WE'VE GOT
A LOT OF SMALL
HOLES THAT HAVE
BEEN PATCHED.
AND THEN WE'VE GOT
NEW WALLS LIKE THIS
THAT ARE JUST
NEW BLUE BOARD.
MM-HMM. SO ACTUALLY
WHAT WE DID WAS PUT SOME
IMPERIAL GYPSUM BASE
UP TO THE EXISTING
DOOR FRAME, FILLED THAT IN.
WHAT WE'VE DONE IS,
WE'VE PATCHED
THE EXISTING...
HOLE WITH DIAMOND
VENEER BASE COAT.
WE'VE PUT FIBER TAPE OVER--
IT'S A PRESSURE-SENSITIVE
P-TAPE--
OVER THE EXISTING,
AND WE'VE BONDED
THE ENTIRE EXISTING SURFACE.
Bob: SO WHAT IS THIS
PINK STUFF? IT'S A TYPE
OF BONDING AGENT?
USG PLASTER BONDER PINK.
WE MAKE PINK AND CLEAR.
YEAH.
WHAT HAPPENS IS THAT YOU
PUT THE BASE COAT OVER THAT,
IT RE-WETTENS,
RE-EMULSIFIES IT,
AND PLASTER HAS AN ADHESION
THAT GOES RIGHT ONTO IT.
Bob: OK. SO WHAT THEY'RE
READY TO START DOING
NOW INVOLVES THIS COAT?
ABSOLUTELY.
Bob: OK, NOW HOW
DO YOU DEAL WITH
WHERE THE WALL MEETS
THE CEILING UP HERE?
DON'T YOU HAVE TO
WORRY ABOUT CRACKS?
WELL, WHAT WE'RE GONNA DO IS,
WE'RE GONNA APPLY THE, UH,
PRESSURE-SENSITIVE TAPE.
SO IT'S THE SAME TAPE
THAT YOU USED TO PATCH?
EXACTLY. UP TO
THE EXISTING SURFACE
AND BUTT IT IN WHILE HE'S
APPLYING THE FIRST COAT
OF BASE COAT.
OK.
Chris: JAY,
WOULD YOU LIKE TO--
Jay: YEP.
I'LL TAKE
YOUR TOOLS.
WATCH IT.
IT'S SHARP.
Bob: ALL RIGHT.
SO, CHRIS, EXPLAIN JUST
WHAT'S HAPPENING HERE
BECAUSE WE'RE PUTTING
A SECOND COAT ON NOW,
RIGHT?
Chris: YES. BASICALLY,
WHAT THE FIRST COAT DOES IS,
YOU PUT A NICE SCRATCH COAT IN,
GET A NICE EVEN COAT.
SECOND COAT COME BACK OVER--
BUT YOU DON'T HAVE TO
WAIT FOR THE FIRST COAT
TO DRY?
NO. YOU DON'T WAIT
FOR THE FIRST ONE.
YOU WANT THE SECOND COAT--
FIRST COAT TO BE FULLY WET,
APPLYING A SECOND COAT
JUST TO TAKE OUT SOME
OF THE BAD DIPS, DIVES;
PUT IN, TAKE OUT
YOUR TROWEL MARKS.
Bob: MM-HMM.
YOU GET A NICE,
SMOOTH FINISH.
AND THEN
THAT'S IT FOR TODAY.
BUT THEN THE NEXT DAY?
THE NEXT DAY, YOU PUT
YOUR FINISH COAT OVER IT.
WHAT HAPPENS IS,
RIGHT BEFORE THIS SETS--
IT HAS ABOUT
AN HOUR SET TIME.
RIGHT BEFORE
IT SETS, BOB,
THEY'RE GONNA TAKE A BRUSH
AND PUT A NICE KEY IN IT
SO THE FINISH COAT
ADHERES TO IT
IN A STRUCTURALLY
SOUND MANNER.
OK. AND THEN
WHAT ABOUT SECTIONS
LIKE WHERE THE
INSULATORS DRILLED
ALL THEIR HOLES?
WHAT YOU DO IS, YOU USE
THE PLASTER BONDER PINK.
YOU PUT THE BONDER
AROUND THE INSIDE OF THE HOLE,
YOU FILL IT IN
WITH THE BASE COAT.
AND WHAT WE'VE DONE IS,
WE'VE MESHED OVER THE TOP
OF THAT FOR EXTRA SECURITY
AND THEN BOND OVER
THE WHOLE SURFACE.
THEN YOU BOND OVER
THE WHOLE SURFACE?
YES.
GREAT.
Bob: OK, NOW ON
THIS PARTITION,
THIS WALL,
WHERE IT'S ALL
NEW BLUE BOARD,
IT'S A DIFFERENT TYPE
OF INSTALLATION, RIGHT?
Chris: IT'S A ONE-COAT
APPLICATION WHAT THEY'RE
APPLYING ON THIS--
THIS PROCEDURE HERE.
BASICALLY WHAT SHREVE
IS DOING HERE IS,
HE'S APPLYING ONE COAT OVER
THE JOINTS TO REINFORCE THEM
AND, UH, FILL IN
THE UNDULATION THAT'S LEFT
FROM THE TWO END TAPES--
EXACTLY.
FROM THE BUTT JOINTS.
EXACTLY.
NOW, HOW LONG DOES
THIS HAVE TO SET UP
BEFORE YOU CAN ACTUALLY
PUT THE PLASTER COAT
ON THE WHOLE WALL?
THAT'LL SET UP
IN APPROXIMATELY AN HOUR,
AND THEN IT'S READY
FOR THE FINISH COAT
TO BE EMBEDDED
OVER THE TOP.
ALL RIGHT, SO YOU GOT TO
KEEP IT WET AT ALL TIMES,
BUT THIS IS THE END, RIGHT?
YEAH. ONCE IT STARTS TO GET
THE INITIAL BROWN OUT,
WE'RE GONNA GIVE IT
A LITTLE BIT OF WATER,
GIVE IT A NICE, POLISHED,
SMOOTH LOOK.
OK. IT'S GONNA BE BEAUTIFUL.
THANKS A LOT.
THANKS, BOB.
ALL RIGHT.
NEXT WE'LL INSTALL
A SET OF OVERSIZED DOORS
TO REPLACE
THE ORIGINAL BARN ENTRANCE.
OK, WELL,
THE LAST ACTIVITY OF THE DAY
INVOLVES AN OVERSIZED DOOR
THAT WE'VE RECEIVED
FROM KML INDUSTRIES IN CANADA.
AND THIS REPLACES THE OLD BARN
DOORS THAT WERE HERE, WHICH WERE
VERY INEFFICIENT.
THEY'RE MADE OUT OF PINE--
I THINK PROBABLY PONDEROSA--
THERMAL-INSULATING GLASS,
AND THEY'RE 9 x 10 FEET--
THE WHOLE SETUP IS.
SO HEAVY, BUT I BET YOU
IT'S NOT AS HEAVY
AS THE ONES THAT
WERE HERE, RIGHT, JIMMY?
NO. THESE ARE
REAL HEAVY.
PROBABLY 300 POUNDERS
OR THEREABOUT.
PROBABLY
CLOSE TO IT.
NOW, WHAT DID YOU HAVE TO DO
TO THE EXISTING FRAME HERE
BEFORE WE CAN PUT
THE DOORS IN PLACE?
WELL, THE EXISTING WALL
IS WAY OUT OF PLUMB,
SO WE PLUMBED IT
WITH THESE 2 x 4s.
PRESSURE TREATED.
YEP, AND WE'RE GONNA
KEEP THE DOOR FLUSH
WITH THE INSIDE
SO THAT WHEN
YOU SWING THE DOOR,
IT'LL SWING OPEN
ALL THE WAY AND
NOT HIT THE JAMB.
SO YOU'LL BE ABLE
TO OPEN IT 180 DEGREES
AND HAVE A DOUBLE OPENING
WORK REALLY WELL FOR YOU.
OK, ARE WE READY
TO BRING IT UP?
YEP.
I'D HELP, BUT THEN
I'D BE TRAPPED IN THERE.
1, 2, 3.
AND MATT IS OUT HERE
READY TO DRIVE HOME SOME...
SCREWS THAT ARE GONNA HOLD
IT IN PLACE AGAINST THE JAMB.
WHAT A BEAUTIFUL DOOR.
TWIN PANELS OF GLASS
AND THEN 4 RAISED
PANELS ON THE BOTTOM
AND GLASS SIDE LIGHTS.
Bob: READY?
GOOD. WE'RE RUNNING OUT OF TIME.
COME HOME AGAIN NEXT WEEK,
WHEN WE'LL BE INSTALLING
FLOOR SYSTEMS.
ONE GOES DOWN
WITHOUT USING ANY NAILS,
AND THE OTHER ONE
IS MADE OUT OF GLASS.
TILL THEN, I'M BOB VILA.
IT'S GOOD TO HAVE YOU
HOME AGAIN.
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