1307 - Insulation, Shutters and Interior Walls
October 14-20, 2002 | April 14-20, 2003
HI, I'M BOB VILA.
WELCOME HOME AGAIN
TO OUR 21st CENTURY
CENTER-ENTRY COLONIAL,
AND, BOY,
I LIKE THAT PAINT JOB
WITH OUR NEW BOB VILA
SIGNATURE LINE.
TODAY WE'RE SPENDING
MOST OF OUR TIME INDOORS.
WE'RE INSTALLING
ALL THE FIBERGLASS INSULATION.
WE'LL ALSO
BE HANGING BLUE BOARD
AND SPENDING A FAIR AMOUNT
OF TIME PLASTERING THE PLACE.
AND RYLEY'S
ON THE OUTSIDE.
WE'RE GONNA BE PUTTING UP
SOME BEAUTIFUL
ANTIQUE-LOOKING
WOODEN SHUTTERS.
STICK AROUND. IT'S GOOD
TO HAVE YOU HOME AGAIN.
CAPTIONING MADE POSSIBLE BY
SEARS
NOW, WE'RE GONNA GET STARTED
IN THE GREAT ROOM
WHERE I'M GONNA INTERRUPT
RICH ROOMEY IN A MINUTE,
WHO'S HANGING
ALL THE BLUE BOARD,
BUT BASICALLY
IN THE CUSTOM END
OF HOUSE BUILDING TODAY,
NOBODY PUTS UP DRYWALL
WITH TAPED SEAMS.
EVERYBODY
PUTS UP BLUE BOARD.
THIS IS U.S. GYPSUM PRODUCT,
AND IT ALWAYS RECEIVES
A SKIM COAT OF PLASTER.
THAT'S THE HIGHER-END JOB.
RICH, CAN I
INTERRUPT YOU?
YEAH.
NOW...
THE DO-IT-YOURSELFER
TRYING TO DO THIS
IS GONNA
HAVE A HARD TIME
UNLESS
THERE'S A COUPLE
OF HELPERS, RIGHT?
OH, YEAH. YOU NEED
ONE PERSON AT LEAST,
MAYBE 2 FOR THE HIGH STUFF.
AND YOU'RE USING--
ARE YOU USING
4 X 10 SHEETS
FOR A BIG JOB
LIKE THIS?
NO, WE USE 4 X 12s,
AND WE CUT 'EM TO LENGTH.
THE LESS SEAMS
IS NATURALLY BETTER.
WHAT KIND OF FASTENERS
DO YOU USE?
WHAT KIND OF
SHEETROCK SCREWS?
WE USE 1 1/4 INCH.
JUST 1 1/4 INCH?
OK.
YEAH.
AND THE INSTALLATION
OF THEM,
IT'S NOT AT RANDOM.
YOU HAVE TO PUT THEM
IN A GRID KIND OF.
YEAH, 12 INCHES APART...
12 INCHES APART?
YEAH.
AND THEN IN THE CENTERS--
SAME DEAL?
YEAH, 12 INCHES
IN THE CENTER,
AND WHAT YOU LIKE
TO DO IS FASTEN
THE EDGES FIRST--
THE PERIMETER--
AND THEN WORK YOUR WAY
INTO THE MIDDLE.
IN TOWARDS THE MIDDLE,
RIGHT.
Vila: AND NOW, OF COURSE,
THIS IS THE FINAL, REALLY--
THE FINAL ROUGH JOB OF--
THE ROUGH PART OF THE JOB.
THE INSULATION
IS ALREADY IN PLACE.
WE DID A GREAT DEAL
OF INSTALLATION
OF PINK FIBERGLASS
INSULATION IN THIS HOUSE
AS WE ARE
IN THE NORTHEAST.
AND LET'S WATCH
HOW THAT WENT IN.
JOINING US NOW
IS BUDDY LOXLEY
FROM M.A.P. INSULATION.
THEY'RE THE CONTRACTORS
WHO ARE PUTTING IN
ALL THE FIBERGLASS
INSULATION,
AND ISN'T THAT COOL.
SO, LET'S TALK ABOUT
THE AREAS,
'CAUSE, OBVIOUSLY,
IT'S DIFFERENT--
WHAT YOU'RE DOING
IN THE SIDEWALL
IS DIFFERENT FROM WHAT
YOU'RE DOING UP IN THE ATTIC.
RIGHT NOW WE'RE LOOKING
AT THE SIDEWALL.
WHAT KIND OF INSULATION
IS THIS?
THE PRODUCT THAT
THEY'RE USING
IN THIS HOME
IS A 3 1/2 INCH
HIGH-DENSITY
R15 PRODUCT
MADE FOR 2 X 4
WALL CONSTRUCTION.
AND IT'S--COURSE--
IT'S FIBERGLASS.
CORRECT.
IT HAPPENS TO BE PINK,
SO THAT TELL US
WHO MAKES IT,
BUT IT'S NOTHING
OUT OF WHAT--
IT'S NOTHING NEW.
IT'S WHAT WE'VE
BEEN USING FOR YEARS
IN THE INDUSTRY.
THE ONLY DIFFERENCE
BETWEEN THE R15
AND THE STANDARD PRODUCT
IS THAT IT IS
A HIGH-DENSITY BLANKET.
THIS IS
A ENERGY-STAR HOME
AS OPPOSED TO PUTTING
IN AN R11 OR AN R13.
THIS IS
THE HIGHEST R-VALUE
THAT CAN BE ACHIEVED
WITH A FIBERGLASS BLANKET
IN A 2 X 4 WALL.
IN A 2 X 4 WALL,
YEAH.
AND WITHOUT GETTING
TOO DETAILED,
HOW DO THEY DO
THE EXTRA 4 Rs?
THERE IS MORE
FIBERGLASS PRODUCT
ACTUALLY PUT INTO
THE BLANKET ITSELF,
MAKING IT MORE DENSE
AND MORE RIGID
AS OPPOSED
TO THE R13 AND R11.
SO THE DENSITY OF IT
TRAPS MORE AIR PARTICLES,
AND THEREFORE YOU'VE
GOT A HIGHER FACTOR.
CORRECT.
NOW, ANY TIPS ON
WHAT THEY'RE DOING?
FOR EXAMPLE,
INSTALLING AROUND
AN ELECTRICAL BOX
AND STUFF?
CORRECT. WHEN
THEY'RE DOING AROUND--
THEY'RE TRYING
TO MAKE SURE
THAT THERE ISN'T
AS MUCH COMPRESSION--
AS LEAST AMOUNT OF
COMPRESSION AS POSSIBLE
BOTH AT THE BOTTOMS
OF THE WALL BATS,
AROUND
ELECTRICAL OUTLETS,
TRYING TO GET--
THAT'S PROBABLY
THE MOST IMPORTANT TIP
THAT YOU CAN GIVE
A HOMEOWNER
IS DO NOT COMPRESS
THE INSULATION.
DON'T SQUISH IT
IN THERE.
IT HAS TO BE FLUFFY,
IT HAS TO HAVE THE AIR
TRAPPED IN-BETWEEN
THE FIBERGLASS PARTICLES.
ANY COMPRESSION
OF THE BLANKET
WILL DROP THE ABILITY
OF THE BLANKET
TO TRAP HEAT
IN AN AREA.
MM-HMM.
NOW, THEY JUST CUT IT
RIGHT IN PLACE.
OF COURSE, THESE ARE
PROFESSIONAL INSTALLERS.
THEY DO THIS
ALL THE TIME.
BUT HE JUST
BASICALLY STOOD THAT
UP AGAINST THE EDGE
TO GET A DIMENSIONAL MARK
AND THEN JUST
CUTS IT RIGHT IN PLACE
AND STICKS IT RIGHT IN.
IT TAKES A LITTLE
TIME AND PRACTICE
TO DO IT THAT WAY,
BUT IT IS
A BETTER APPLICATION
THAN DROPPING
THE WALL BAT
ON THE FLOOR
AND STANDING
ON TOP OF IT.
I NOTICE AROUND
THE WINDOW OVER THERE
HE IS ACTUALLY
CHINKING IT IN
WITH HIS KNIFE.
CORRECT. THEY DO
THAT APPLICATION FOR--
THAT COMPRESSES IT,
THOUGH, DOESN'T IT?
IT DOES,
BUT THE BIGGEST REASON
WHY THEY'RE DOING THAT
IS TO PREDOMINANTLY
STOP COLD WIND
AND AIR PENETRATION
FROM OUTSIDE IN
AROUND THE DOOR AREA,
AS OPPOSED
TO SOME PEOPLE
WOULD LIKE TO SEE
THOSE AREAS FOAMED.
WE WOULD EITHER
FOAM IT OR STUFF IT
WITH FIBERGLASS.
IT'S PREDOMINANTLY
IN PLACE TO KNOCK
DOWN AIR PENETRATION
AROUND THE WINDOWS
AND DOORJAMBS.
I SEE.
NOW, THE JOB
OF THE INSULATION
IS TO KEEP THE WARM AIR
IN THE HEATED ENVELOPE
OF THE HOUSE
FROM ESCAPING,
RIGHT, BUDDY?
CORRECT.
NOW, WHY DO YOU PUT
A POLYETHYLENE
MOISTURE BARRIER IN PLACE?
OH, THE VAPOR BARRIER
IS INSTALLED
OVER THE INSULATION
TO INSURE THAT YOU
DON'T HAVE MOISTURE
AND CONDENSATION
PROBLEMS
DURING HOT TO COLD
AIR TRANSFERS.
AS YOU CAN SEE,
THERE IS A CRAFT FACING
ON THIS PRODUCT
IN THE WALL
AND IN
THE CEILING CAVITY.
YEAH.
IT HAS FLANGES ON IT
WHICH CAN BE INSERT
STAPLED INTO THE CAVITY.
ON A WALL APPLICATION,
WE USE THE POLYETHYLENE
VAPOR BARRIER
TO GIVE US A MORE
UNIFORM VAPOR BARRIER--
ONE SOLID VAPOR BARRIER
ACROSS THE WALL.
AND IT ALSO SEALS OFF
ANY AIR INFILTRATION
IN-BETWEEN STUDDING.
YEAH, OK,
BUT THE HOUSE WRAP
IS ON THE OUTSIDE
OF THE HOUSE,
AND THAT'S PUT THERE
TO KEEP ANY COLD AIR
FROM INFILTRATING
THROUGH THE WALL.
AND THE CONCERN THAT
A LOT OF PEOPLE HAVE
IS THAT YOU'RE TRAPPING
MOISTURE SOMEHOW
IN THE WALL CAVITIES,
THAT YOU'RE GONNA
GET WET PLYWOOD,
WET INSULATION.
OK. OUR THEORY ON THAT
IS THAT HEAT
AND MOISTURE RISES,
AND AS LONG AS
THE HEAT AND MOISTURE
IS DISSIPATING
OUTSIDE THE HOME
BY RISING THROUGH
THE CEILING AREAS
AND DISSIPATING OUT,
THAT IT SHOULDN'T
REALLY BE ABLE TO TRAP
INSIDE THE WALL CAVITY.
IT SHOULD NEVER
GET TO THAT POINT.
SO WHEN YOU GET
TO A PLACE LIKE THIS
WHERE YOU HAVE
AN EAVE, A ROOF,
AN ANGLED ROOFLINE,
YOU TRIM IT AWAY
AND YOU KEEP IT
JUST ON THE WALL SIDE.
CORRECT. APPLYING
THE POLYETHYLENE,
WE TRY TO BE AS FRIENDLY
TO THE PEOPLE
FOLLOWING US AS POSSIBLE
AS FAR AS
THE SHEETROCKERS
OR HANGING PEOPLE
THAT WE DON'T BUNCH
THE PLASTIC IN CORNERS
OR AREAS WHERE
THEY'D HAVE TROUBLE
GETTING A FLUSH LIE
WITH THEIR BOARD.
I'M SURE THAT'S
MUCH APPRECIATED.
YEAH.
AS YOU CAN SEE,
THEY'LL TRIM OFF
THE BOTTOM PIECE
OF POLYETHYLENE
OFF THE FLOOR
SO THAT THAT AREA
IS NOT BUNCHED UP
SO THAT THE SHEETROCKERS
OR BLUE-BOARDERS
DON'T HAVE A PROBLEM
WITH THAT OVERLAPPING.
AGAIN, IF THEY
WANT TO TRIM AROUND
THE WINDOWS AND DOORS,
IT'S FINE.
USUALLY OUR CUSTOMERS
LIKE TO SEE US JUST
LEAVE IT UP.
IT SAVES 'EM
TIME AND ENERGY
AFTER THE PROCESS
IS DONE.
GREAT. LOTS
OF GOOD TIPS THERE.
NOW, LET'S TALK
ABOUT ROOF INSULATION.
OK.
A STANDARD ATTIC
INSULATION'S AN R30,
AND WE'RE USING AN R38,
WHICH IS A FULL 12 INCHES
SO THAT WE GET
OUR ENERGY-STAR RATING.
ANY PROBLEMS INHERENT IN
THIS KIND OF INSTALLATION?
WELL, THE AREA THAT
THEY'RE INSULATING NOW
IS AN AREA
OF CRITICAL CONCERN
WHERE THE INSTALLER
IS ACTUALLY PUTTING IN
THE 12-INCH R38 BLANKET.
THE FIRST THING THAT
NEEDS TO BE INSTALLED
IS THE STYROFOAM
BAFFLE VENTS
THAT ARE BEING PUT
IN THE RAFTER SYSTEM.
YOU HAVE TO MAKE SURE
THAT THOSE RAFTER VENTS
GO AND EXCEED
THE ONE FOOT
OF INSULATION
THAT'S BEING PLACED
IN THE ATTIC
SO THAT THE VENT
ACTUALLY EXTENDS
UP ABOVE THAT ONE FOOT
OF INSULATION.
SO, HERE YOU WANT
THE INSTALLATION
IN THE ROOF
TO COVER BEYOND
THE SIDEWALL, RIGHT?
CORRECT.
AS YOU CAN SEE,
HE'S PULLING
THE BLANKET OUT
BEYOND THE WALL PLATE
SO THAT IT ACTUALLY--
THE FAR END OF THAT
INSULATION WOULD MEET
AT LEAST WHERE
THE SIDEWALL APPLICATION
COMES UP
AND DOESN'T STOP
AT THE TOP OF
THE WALL PLATE
WHERE THAT LAST PIECE
OF STRAPPING IS.
NOW, THE LAST THING
WE'RE DOING INVOLVES
SOUND ATTENUATION--
NOISE CONTROL--
WITH THIS PRODUCT,
WHICH IS CALLED
THE QUIETZONE.
WHAT IS IT?
QUIETZONE
IS A 3 1/2 INCH
BAT INSULATION
APPLIED TO ANY
INTERIOR 2 X 4 STUDDING
FOR SOUND DEADENING.
SO IT'S
REGULAR FIBERGLASS,
WHICH DOES
HAVE A GOOD ROLE
AS A SOUND ATTENUATOR.
AND, OBVIOUSLY,
BETWEEN A BATHROOM
AND OTHER ROOMS
IN THE HOUSE--
GREAT IDEA.
THANKS A LOT.
THANK YOU
VERY MUCH, BOB.
OK.
NEXT, WE'LL SHOW YOU
HOW THE PROS
MEASURE AND CUT BLUE BOARD
AT JUST THE RIGHT ANGLE.
STICK AROUND.
Vila: ALL RIGHT, THE LAST
OF THE CEILING PANELS
ARE BEING INSTALLED,
AND YOU GET
THE CEILING ON FIRST
BEFORE YOU FINISH UP
THE WALL SECTIONS
SO THAT YOU END UP
LETTING THE WALL BOARD
THAT'S ON THE VERTICAL
SUPPORT THE WALL BOARD
THAT'S ON THE HORIZONTAL.
YOU GET A TIGHTER JOINT
THAT WAY.
NOW, RICH,
THIS IS ALWAYS
THE DIFFICULT PART
WHEN YOU'RE WORKING
ON A CATHEDRAL CEILING
AND YOU'VE GOTTA
GET THAT ANGLE.
ANY TRICKS?
WELL, WHAT WE LIKE TO DO
IS WE GET
THE OVERALL LENGTH
AND THEN THE OVERALL
WIDTH OF OUR PIECE.
AND THEN AFTER WE
DISTINGUISH THAT,
WE TRY TO FIND A POINT
WHERE OUR ANGLE
BEGINS AND FINISHES.
AND, USUALLY, IF IT'S
OVER A 48-INCH PIECE,
YOU CAN TAKE A T-SQUARE...
YEAH.
AND REST IT ON THE BOARD
AND SLIDE IT OVER,
AND THAT WILL BE
YOUR 48-INCH PIECE
WHERE THE ANGLE STARTS.
BUT HERE IT'S LESS
THAN THAT.
HERE IT'S A LITTLE LESS.
IT'S LIKE A LITTLE
TRIANGLE OVER HERE.
RIGHT. WE TAKE
A PIECE OF SCRAP
THAT WE HAVE LEFT OVER,
AND WE CUT IT DOWN
TO OUR WIDTH.
SO WE MEASURE OUR WIDTH,
WHICH WAS 33 1/2--
SO YOU JUST PUT THAT
IN AS A GUIDE.
WE PUT OUR PIECE IN,
SLIDE IT OVER TO WHERE
OUR ANGLE STARTS,
AND THAT'S HOW WE GET
OUR MEASUREMENT.
THAT'S PRETTY BASIC,
YEAH.
AND ALL WE'RE DOING IS
GETTING THE DIMENSION
FOR THE BOTTOM
AND TELLING OUR CUTTER
DOWN BELOW WHAT WE NEED.
SO, NOW, JOE KNOWS
WE NEED A PIECE
OVERALL IN LENGTH THAT
WILL BE 109 1/2 INCHES.
'CAUSE YOU
WANT TO BREAK IT
ON THE MIDDLE OF A STUD.
WE LIKE TO BREAK IT
ON THE MIDDLE,
AND WE USE AS LESS SEAMS
AS POSSIBLE.
SO...
SO ON THE SHEET
DOWN BELOW,
HE'S MEASURING...
THE 109 1/2 INCHES THAT
WE GOT THE OVERALL LENGTH.
FROM RIGHT TO LEFT
HE'S GOT THE 109.
AND THEN HE'S GONNA GO
WITH THE OVERALL WIDTH,
WHICH WAS 33 1/2 INCHES.
SO, THAT GOES
ALL THE WAY ACROSS.
AND WHEN YOU'VE
HAD ENOUGH PRACTICE,
YOU CAN MAKE YOUR CUTS
LIKE THAT, ALSO.
THEN HE'LL COME BACK
49 3/8 OF AN INCH,
AND THAT WILL BE
OUR ANGLE.
AND WE KNOW
THAT'S THE POINT
THAT GOES DOWN
TO THE BOTTOM.
CHALK LINE.
I HOPE HE CAN SEE IT.
YEAH, HE CAN. HE'S...
Vila:
ALL RIGHT. AND, SO,
THIS SHOULD BE A PIECE
THAT FITS IN PERFECTLY
THE FIRST TIME.
I DON'T KNOW
ABOUT THAT, BUT...
HA HA!
IT WILL BE CLOSE.
WE'LL GUARANTEE THAT.
NOW, HE'S JUST
KIND OF RUN THE BLADE
ACROSS THE EDGES
TO GET KIND OF LIKE
A BACK CUT ON IT, RIGHT?
A SMOOTHER SURFACE
BECAUSE WHAT HAPPENS
IS YOU'LL GET BURRS
ON THE BOARD
FROM THE CUT,
DEPENDING UPON
HOW GOOD THE, YOU KNOW--
THIS STUFF IS GOOD
BECAUSE THIS IS
ONE OF THE BEST.
THAT LOOK PRETTY DARN
GOOD, DOESN'T IT?
UH, I'D SAY
THAT'S PERFECT.
ALL RIGHT, AND NOW
FOR THE EXCITING PART--
SPREADING THE PLASTER.
THE PLASTERING CREW IS MIXING
A BATCH OF VENEER PLASTER,
AND THEY'LL START WORKING
ON IT IN A MINUTE,
SO STICK AROUND.
NEXT TIME ON...
WORK CONTINUES
ON OUR CENTER-ENTRY COLONIAL.
WE'LL BE INSTALLING HIGH-DENSITY
FIBERGLASS INSULATION
TO INCREASE THE ENERGY
EFFICIENCY OF THIS HOME.
WE'LL BE HANGING BLUE BOARD,
AND WE'LL SHOW YOU HOW IT'S CUT
AT JUST THE RIGHT ANGLE.
THEN WE'LL SPEND SOME TIME
APPLYING A SKIM COAT
OF VENEER PLASTER.
ALSO, RYLEY WILL JOIN US
TO PUT UP SOME
ANTIQUE-STYLE
WOODEN SHUTTERS.
SO DON'T MISS IT.
THAT'S NEXT TIME
ON HOME AGAIN.
NEXT TIME ON...
WE'LL BE INSULATING,
HANGING BLUE BOARD,
AND APPLYING
A SKIM COAT OF PLASTER.
DON'T MISS IT.
Vila: ALL RIGHT, SO WE'RE UP
ON THE SECOND-FLOOR BEDROOM
WHERE SHORTY, ALSO KNOWN
AS MICHAEL HARRIS,
IS HAVING ALL THE FUN.
BEFORE WE START
INTERRUPTING HIM,
THIS IS WHAT'S
BEING USED HERE.
IT'S USG DIAMOND
VENEER PLASTER,
WHICH IS A MIXTURE
OF PLASTER OF PARIS AND LIME.
IT'S A TRADITIONAL MATERIAL,
AND, AGAIN, IT'S SOMETHING
THAT REQUIRES
A FAIR AMOUNT OF TALENT.
IT'S NOT NECESSARILY
A DO-IT-YOURSELF JOB.
SHORTY, I THOUGHT
MOST PLASTERERS
LIKED TO DO
THE CEILING FIRST
AND THEN THE WALLS.
YEAH, A LOT OF GUYS DO
WITH A BIG CREW,
BUT WITH THIS SMALL CREW,
WE LIKE TO DO THE WALLS FIRST.
MAKES IT EASIER FOR US.
DOES IT MAKE IT
EASIER FOR YOU?
YEAH, WITH
THE CUTTING-IN
ON THE ANGLES
AND RUNNING
THE ANGLE TOOL UP THERE,
YOU'LL SEE WHAT I MEAN
IN A FEW MINUTES.
OK, 'CAUSE YOU DO HAVE
A LOT OF ANGLES IN HERE.
YEAH, THERE'S
A LOT OF ANGLES
TO WORK WITH HERE, SO...
OK.
SO, YOU'VE ALREADY
PUT A COAT WHEREVER
YOU GOT A JOINT.
YES, WE RAN
SOME NYLON MESH
OVER EVERY ANGLE,
AND THEN WE RAN
A COAT OF MUD ON IT
TO MAKE SURE
IT'S NICE AND STRONG
FOR THE NEXT COAT.
AND DO YOU HAVE
TO WAIT A CERTAIN
AMOUNT OF TIME
FOR IT TO SET
BEFORE YOU PUT
THE NEXT COAT ON?
YOU SHOULD WAIT
A LITTLE WHILE
JUST TILL IT STARTS
SETTING UP,
AND THEN
YOU CAN GO WITH IT.
BUT YOU DON'T WANT
TO WAIT TOO LONG, EITHER.
YEAH, THE GRACE PERIOD,
AS IT WERE, IS LIKE AN HOUR.
YEAH, ABOUT AN HOUR,
AN HOUR AND 15,
HOUR AND 45,
ALL DEPENDING
ON WHAT KIND OF FINISH
YOU'RE DOING.
RIGHT, RIGHT.
Vila: HOW MUCH TIME
DO YOU ALLOW FOR A JOB
LIKE THIS?
IT ALL DEPENDS.
THIS IS A PRETTY BIG JOB,
ABOUT 400 BOARDS, SO...
400 BOARDS.
YEAH, ABOUT 380
OR SOMETHING LIKE THAT
IT TURNED OUT.
AND THAT'S GONNA
TAKE US ABOUT 7 DAYS--
ME AND SCOTT
AND HIS SON THERE.
3 OF YOU.
YUP.
WE'RE HARD WORKERS,
YOU KNOW?
Vila: NOW, SHORTY,
WHERE'D YOU LEARN
THE TRADE?
I LEARNED
AT THE SCHOOL
OF HARD KNOCKS.
OFF THE STREET,
YOUNG KID,
FOUND AN AD
IN THE PAPER.
WENT TO WORK
AND LIKED IT.
NOT TOO MANY PEOPLE
CAN DO IT,
SO IT'S KIND OF
A GOOD JOB.
IT PAYS PRETTY WELL.
YEAH.
Vila: SO IT'S PERFECTLY OK
TO JUST GO OVER THE SCREWS.
YOU DON'T HAVE TO DO
ANY KIND OF SPECIAL
PATCHING FIRST.
NO, NOT REALLY.
IT'S NOT LIKE A DRYWALL,
YOU KNOW.
WITH A DRYWALL,
THE MUD SHRINKS
A LITTLE BIT.
THIS MUD'S GONNA--
WHILE IT'S SHRINKING
AND WHILE WE'RE GONNA
BE WORKING IT.
WE'RE REALLY GONNA
BE MUSCLING IT IN,
YOU KNOW?
SO THE SCREWS'LL
BE FINE.
YOU JUST REALLY WANT
TO TOUGHEN UP THE TAPES,
'CAUSE IF THERE'S ANY
MOVEMENT IN THE HOUSE,
WITH A COAT OF MUD
ON THERE IT'LL MAKE IT
A LITTLE STRONGER.
RIGHT.
NOW, WHAT THICKNESS
ARE YOU TRYING
TO REACH HERE?
WELL, IT ALL DEPENDS
IF THE WALL'S LEVEL,
YOU KNOW?
IT ALL DEPENDS.
IT'S ABOUT 1/4 INCH
IN MOST PLACES.
I'D SAY NO THINNER
THAN THAT.
SO, AFTER
THE INITIAL COAT,
WE COME AROUND,
HIT ALL OUR ANGLES DOWN.
WE MUSCLE
IN THE MUD ABOUT--
GO AROUND THE ROOM
ABOUT 4 TIMES
WITH THIS MOP HERE.
AND, YOU KNOW,
IT COMES OUT
A REAL NICE FINISH.
NICE JOB, SHORTY.
COMING UP NEXT,
RYLEY JOINS US TO INSTALL
ANTIQUE-STYLE WOODEN SHUTTERS
ON THE EXTERIOR WINDOWS.
WELL, A TRUE COLONIAL
WOULD HAVE ALWAYS HAD
NICE SHUTTERS AT THE WINDOWS--
INDIAN SHUTTERS--
AND THEY WERE FOR PROTECTION
FROM THE WEATHER,
NOT TO MENTION ATTACKS.
BUT THE ONES
THAT WE HAVE HERE
ARE ABOUT AS AUTHENTIC
AS IT GETS.
THEY'RE MADE OUT
OF SOUTHERN YELLOW PINE,
WHICH IS KILN-DRIED
AND PRESSURE-TREATED.
AND THEY ARE BEAUTIFULLY
CRAFTED BY OUR FRIENDS
DOWN AT WITHERS INDUSTRIES
IN SOUTH CAROLINA.
WE'VE DONE LOTS
WITH THEIR PRODUCTS BEFORE.
BUT THESE
ARE BEING INSTALLED
TO GIVE THE HOUSE
A MORE AUTHENTIC FEEL.
VERY OFTEN YOU'LL LOOK
AT A CENTER-ENTRY COLONIAL
THAT'S BEEN PUT UP
IN A DEVELOPMENT,
AND WHEN YOU GET UP CLOSE,
THEY'RE PLASTIC,
AND THEY'VE BEEN SCREWED
INTO THE WALL.
THEY'RE NOT FUNCTIONAL.
THEY'RE NOT WOOD.
THEY DON'T LOOK
QUITE AS RIGHT.
SO, LET'S GET OVER HERE
WITH BOB RYLEY
WHO IS PUTTING THEM ON.
HI, RYLEY.
HI, BOB.
YOU'VE ALREADY GOT A COUPLE
OF YOUR PINTLES UP THERE.
LET'S TAKE
A CLOSER LOOK AT THOSE.
WHERE ARE THEY?
RIGHT IN MY POCKET HERE.
NOW, ALL OF THIS
IS HAND-FORGED HARDWARE...
WHICH IS GONNA LAST
FOR MANY, MANY DECADES
TO COME.
AND THIS IS CALLED
A PINTLE,
AND BASICALLY
IT'S LIKE A LAG BOLT
THAT GOES RIGHT IN.
RIGHT IN,
AND THE PIN IS--
THE STRAP
HANGS ON THE PIN.
YUP.
JUST WANT TO MAKE SURE
THAT WE'VE GOT SOLID
BLOCKING BACK HERE.
THAT'S PRETTY CRUCIAL.
OTHER THAN THAT,
IT'S JUST A MATTER
OF DRILLING A PILOT HOLE
AND SCREWING IT IN.
SO YOU'LL BE GOING
RIGHT THROUGH THE TRIM
AND INTO THE JACK STUD.
YOU CAN'T PUT
A RATCHET TO THAT,
SO IT'S HAND WORK.
REALLY.
OH, THAT'LL MAKE DO
AS A RATCHET.
NOW, THE HINGES
ARE BUILT OFFSET,
AREN'T THEY?
YES, THEY ARE. YUP.
[MUTTERS]
RIGHT THERE.
HOLDING IT OUT
ABOUT 5/8 OF AN INCH
FROM THE CASING.
OK, LET ME
GRAB THE LADDER
AND I'LL GET THE TOP.
I'LL LIFT THIS UP.
I'M ASSUMING
THIS IS THE BOTTOM.
YUP, THAT'S IT.
Vila: NOW,
THIS HAS BEEN PAINTED
WITH ONE OF OUR NEW COLORS
AT THE BOB VILA
SIGNATURE COLLECTION,
WHICH IS ACTUALLY CALLED
CHARLES GREEN.
AND IT READS
VERY, VERY BLACK,
WHICH I THINK
LOOKS VERY NICE
WITH THE BUFF COLOR
AND THE WHITE TRIM.
NOW, WHAT ABOUT
KEEPING THESE IN PLACE?
WE'RE PUTTING
IN A DOG, RIGHT?
YEAH, THEY CALL THEM DOGS,
AND THEY GO UP ABOUT A FOOT
FROM THE BOTTOM OR SO.
HERE, KEVIN'S GOT ONE
ALL READY TO GO.
WE'RE KEEPING 'EM 12 3/4
UP FROM THE BOTTOM OF THIS
AND AN INCH AND 3/4 OFF,
SO THAT WAY WHEN YOU
TURN IT, IT WILL CLOSE
AND HOLD THE SHUTTER
IN PLACE.
ALL RIGHT.
OK.
WE'LL GO TO THE BOTTOM
OF THIS CASING HERE--
THE BOTTOM OF THE CLAPBOARD.
INCH AND 3/4.
AND THAT'S THE SPOT.
THAT LOOKS
PRETTY AUTHENTIC.
WE COULD HAVE HELD THEM DOWN
A LITTLE BIT LOWER, BUT...
I THINK THEY'LL BE VERY
DISTINGUISHABLE THERE.
NICE JOB, RYLEY.
OK, AND WE'RE
RUNNING OUT OF TIME.
COME HOME AGAIN NEXT WEEK
WHEN WE'LL BE
INSTALLING
OUR GARAGE DOORS
AND VISITING
THE FEDERAL-STYLE
JACKSON HOMESTEAD
IN NEWTON, MASSACHUSETTS.
TILL THEN, I'M BOB VILA.
IT'S GOOD TO HAVE YOU
HOME AGAIN.
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