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- DIY PVC Pipe Bathroom Storage
When Crafting in the Rain blogger, Steph, remodeled her bathroom, she said goodbye to an ugly old cabinet—but lost some prime storage space in the process. Since her new vanity left her with little counter space and her kids weren’t yet tall enough to reach the way-up-high shelves, she knew she’d have to get creative.
That’s where these DIY PVC pipe toothbrush holders came into the picture. With this cheap and easy material, Steph made space for everyone’s toothbrush right where the kids could reach them. And the best part is that you can make your own, too!
- 1-inch round PVC pipe
- PVC pipe end caps (one for each holder)
- command hooks
- vinyl or stickers
- PVC pipe cutter
- drill (or drill press)
Cut pipe into 4.25 inch sections.
Drill a hole about 1/2 inch from the end, making sure it’s on the “back side” where any printing is.
Wash the pipes. Cut vinyl initials (or use stickers) to label each holder. Add end caps; they don’t need to be glued on, and then you can disassemble them later and wash them out as needed.
Install command hooks on the inside of the cabinet door. Our vanity is small, so more may fit in your doors if you need them. Let them set for 1 hour before hanging holders and toothbrushes.
Hang your new toothbrush holders!
Thanks for sharing, Steph! For more inventive DIY projects, check out Crafting in the Rain!
- How To's & Quick Tips >
- DIY PVC Pipe Planter
Everyone’s got that their weak spot. For Melissa, it’s succulents. So when her gardening addiction found her running out of tiny containers for these low maintenance houseplants, she got creative. Inspiration struck in the unlikeliest of places—the plumbing aisle of the local hardware store. That’s where The Happier Homemaker blogger picked up all the materials she’d need to create these inventive PVC pipe planters. For about $5 and some paint she already had on hand, she elevated this humble plumbing staple to new heights. Take a look to see how she did it!
- PVC end caps (1.5-inch and 3-inch)
- painter’s tape
- plastic primer
- gold spray paint
I used painters tape to tape off the areas I wanted to stay white then I used the same Valspar Plastic Primer I used on my plastic playhouse makeover and gave them one quick coat.
I let that dry for an hour before giving them two light coats of my favorite spray paint-Krylon Quick Shots in Gold Leaf.
When the Gold Leaf was dry (I waited another hour) I carefully peeled off my tape-I love the way they turned out!
To plant my succulents I filled the bottom with gravel and then put the plants in potting mix on the top
- Historic Homes & More >
- In Texas, A Million-Dollar Home with a Trailer at Its Heart
In Texas, A Million-Dollar Home with a Trailer at Its Heart
See how architect Andrew Hinman embedded a mid-century trailer at the middle of a new structure in Texas Hill Country.
Flash floods are a reality in Texas, at least near the Nueces River, which runs through the 10,000-acre ranch owned by a global beauty products company founder. In 2012, he reached out to architect Andrew Hinman with a specific idea in mind: permanently situating a prized possession—his 1954 aluminum-clad house trailer—as close as possible to the family’s favorite spot on the river. The shelter would make the trailer more comfortable and functional as a launch pad for hunting, fishing, and swimming adventures. And of course, it needed to ensure that the trailer would not be swept away by the flood waters that return on a seasonal basis.
Hinman says the trailer was the “the raison d’être for the entire project.” One part of the job was to restore the trailer itself, and Hinman did so by paneling the interior in bamboo, while updating many of its outdated fixtures and fittings. The other part of the job was more dramatic and involved surrounding the trailer in decking, a section of which would be screened, a section of which would be open. From here, the client would be able to enjoy panoramic views of Texas Hill Country.
Hinman remembers that he initially “sketched up a big screen porch with a cradle to hold the trailer.” From there, the project took on complexity, particularly once the client’s wife had seen “the tiny little bathroom in the trailer.” It wouldn’t do. So Hinman designed a separate bath. Air conditioned, with a footprint of 150 square feet, the bathroom includes a stone tub that was handmade in Italy and cost $18,000. All told, Hinman estimates the entire project came out around $1 million.
The state of Texas figures largely in the story of the Locomotive Ranch Trailer Home. Hinman himself works out of Austin, and he called in a team of Austin-based artisans to make his design a reality. Among them was Mike Thevenet of Boothe General Contracting, who coordinated the work of electricians, carpenters, and welders (Paul’s Portable Welding is a family-owned business run by three generations of men, all named Paul). Even the trailer itself boasts Southwestern heritage, having been manufactured by the Spartan Aircraft Company. Though it’s now defunct, Spartan was born and operated for decades out of Tulsa, Oklahoma.
Construction began with sinking a dozen concrete piers, each 18 inches in diameter, deep into sedimentary river rock. “It’s firmly rooted,” Hinman sums up. On top of the piers is a steel carriage, securely welded and bolted to the poured concrete building that now anchors the architecture, both visually and structurally. “It’s like a blockhouse,” Hinman says. “It’s blast-proof. The walls are 12 inches thick.” In design, the tower echoes the profile of rainwater-collection structures that were preexisting on the property. At the top of the tower is a screened-in sleeping porch; here, the occupants would be safe even from a flood of Biblical proportions.
Thin and transparent, the new house appears to float above the river. That’s due in part to advances in technology. Instead of conventional screening material, Hinman chose innovative fiberglass mesh, which is impervious to the dings that would mar a metal screen, and which also lends the house a diaphanous look.
“People look at it and think it’s made of glass… but it’s not glass at all,” he says.
No. It’s more like a 1,200 square-foot screened porch, designed to shelter a 40-foot, mid-century modern trailer.
- How To's & Quick Tips >
- 5 Things to Do with… Magnets
5 Things to Do with… Magnets
Tackle some of your biggest home organization challenges with the help of the small-but-mighty magnet.
In most homes, the only magnets are the ones studding the refrigerator door. And while many of us would be lost without the conveniently located everyday reminders posted there, magnets are actually quite versatile and can be used in so many different ways, not only in the kitchen, but also elsewhere in the home. Scroll down to see five ingenious DIY uses of magnets. Copy your favorite project, or let others’ creativity inspire your own decorative yet functional design.
1. SPICE THINGS UP
As the home cook stocks up on spices, his collection can very quickly expand to the point where it takes him five minutes to find the cinnamon. If that sounds familiar, try this trick from A Beautiful Mess: Move spices into shallow, compact containers with magnet backings that let them live on the front of the fridge.
2. BOOKMARK THIS
From I’m Feelin’ Crafty, here’s a way to never lose your spot in a good read. Simply stitch small, circular magnets (available at your local craft store) between two strips of leftover fabric. Even if the book jostles around in your bag for hours, this customized, eye-catching, and magnetized bookmark isn’t very likely to budge.
3. GET IT TOGETHER
Is your desk littered with things like thumbtacks and paperclips? Magnets are perfect for corralling these metallic odds and ends, and you need not sacrifice style for better organization. Just look at what House of Earnest made by hot-gluing magnets inside leftover containers that she’d painted to complement her office decor.
4. STAY ORGANIZED
Simplify meal planning with this fit-for-the-fridge project from Onelmon. Here, handy labels made from magnetic tape (and decorated with washi tape) represent the family’s favorite foods, while the days of the week and important reminders can be handwritten on the magnetic board with markers in your favorite colors.
5. PROVIDE EASY ACCESS
In some parts of the home, such as the bathroom, there’s a finite set of things that you’re always reaching for. To keep these “usual suspects” easily accessible, follow the lead of Liz Marie Blog, who mounted a magnetic board (beautified with a frame), then glued a magnet to each personal item she wanted to keep close at hand.
- How To's & Quick Tips >
- Today’s Homeowners Rediscover the Benefits of a Root Cellar
Today’s Homeowners Rediscover the Benefits of a Root Cellar
Store fruits and vegetables appropriately—in a cool, dark, well-ventilated storage area—and the fall harvest can last you most or all the way through the winter.
Until fruits and vegetables were available year-round at the grocery store, the root cellar played a vital role in daily life. Today, backyard gardeners (and those who buy in bulk at peak season) are rediscovering the advantages of the root cellar—in essence, a pantry for long-term storage of produce like apples and potatoes. Though classic root cellars were dug into hillsides, there are plenty of more casual ways to achieve the same result. No matter your approach to making one, keep these considerations in mind as you work to ensure that your grown or purchased produce lasts as long as possible into the winter season.
When you set out to build a root cellar, temperature outweighs all other factors in importance. The reason why root cellars are so often underground is that below grade, temperatures are not only stable but cool. Anywhere between 32 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit is ideal. Keep a close eye on the temperature, at least when you start. For help here, it’s certainly worthwhile to invest in a quality thermometer; choose one that tracks minimum and maximum readings over a set period of time.
Indoors, store produce low to the ground and close to the walls. Here, produce will remain a few degrees cooler than it would on a high shelf near the middle of the space. If your basement doesn’t get down to 32 or 40 degrees, follow in the footsteps of others who have dug below the basement slab in order to access cooler temperatures. The easiest method—though it has drawbacks—is to simply bury a produce-filled plastic or metal trash can in the yard, covering it closed with straw.
For a successful root cellar, the ventilation system must be designed so that it exchanges air without simultaneously raising the temperature. That can be accomplished by leveraging simple science: Warm air rises and cool air falls, so locate the intake on the low side of the cellar, while positioning the outlet near the ceiling of the storage area. A fan can force air through the intake, and if you are building the root cellar in your basement, a window can serve as the outlet. If possible, store produce in elevated crates for better circulation.
Maintain a humidity level that’s high—about 90 to 95 percent relative humidity—but not so high that the root cellar becomes a dripping jungle. A dirt or gravel-covered floor may be moistened periodically with the addition of water. If humidity levels still fall short, try packing the produce in damp sawdust, sand, or moss. Along the way, track your progress with a hygrometer, a simple device that measures relative humidity.
Because light can cause some fruits and vegetables to spoil more rapidly, keep the root cellar as dark as possible. If the storage area is going to inhabit your basement, plan to fully cover over any windows.
A root cellar doesn’t need to be large. A five-by-eight space can hold up to 30 bushels—more than enough for most families. To maximize storage and to keep things organized, install slatted shelves along the walls.
Different types of produce have different storage requirements. If you’re serious about building a root cellar, research the recommendations for the specific fruits and vegetables you plan to keep there. With the general advice above, however, you should be well on your way to winter’s worth of healthy, fresh eating. Yum!
- Contests & Give-Aways >
- Bob Vila’s $5,000 Fall Flooring Give Away Official Rules
Bob Vila’s $5,000 Fall Flooring Give Away Official Rules
- Other Rooms >
- How To: Make Your Own Laundry Detergent
How To: Make Your Own Laundry Detergent
When you use homemade laundry detergent, you have complete control over the ingredients and save money with every single load.
Two primary advantages recommend homemade laundry detergent. First, mixing your own costs very little in comparison to purchasing a container at the pharmacy or grocery store. Second, homemade laundry detergent gives you complete control over the ingredients doing the dirty work. For some, particularly those with allergies or sensitive skin, the chemicals in commercial products make them a non-starter. But no matter why you want to create your own, the process is actually easier than you might have expected. In fact, only three ingredients are necessary (four, if you wish to make a scented batch). Read on to learn how it’s done.
What you’ll need:
- Pure borax
- Washing soda (otherwise known as sodium carbonate or soda ash)
- Unscented bar soap
- Essential oils like lavender or tea tree oil (optional)
How you combine these ingredients determines what form the detergent takes—powdered or liquid.
First, grate the unscented bar soap into flakes. (If you have sensitive skin, test the soap on your wrist first to see if it causes any irritation.) Next, mix one part grated soap with two parts sodium carbonate and two parts pure borax, the latter of which kills mold and mildew. For a fresh scent, add a few drops of essential oil to the powder. Any oil should be fine; choose the one whose scent you like the best. Finally, put the detergent into an airtight container, keeping it there until you need it next. When it comes time to do laundry, use about 1/8 cup of detergent (or 1/4 cup, if the clothes are very dirty) for each load.
Grate a full bar of unscented soap, then dump the shavings into a large saucepan along with two quarts of water. Heat on low and stir until the soap has dissolved into a smooth, thick liquid (do not bring to a boil). Meanwhile, add a box of borax and a box of washing soda into a bucket filled with four and a half gallons of warm water. Once the soap has dissolved in the saucepan, pour the solution into the bucket. Mix well. If you want, put in several drops of your favorite essential oil, then leave the detergent to settle overnight. When it’s time to do laundry, shake up the detergent before adding 1/2 or one cup to the washing machine.
Congratulations, you’ve done it! Now to extend the shelf life of the generous batch you’ve just made, remember to store the homemade laundry detergent in an airtight container. Keep it safely out of reach of children and pets, because although the ingredients are natural, they still may be harmful if swallowed.
- Lawn & Garden >
- Don’t Forget to Fertilize Your Lawn This Fall!
Don’t Forget to Fertilize Your Lawn This Fall!
Spring may be the season of growth and renewal, but if you're serious about cultivating healthy and beautiful grass, it's what you do in fall that makes or breaks next year's lawn.
Autumn is generally seen as the season of winding down before winter dormancy. But when it comes to lawn care, fall is a busy time. What you do now goes a long way toward safeguarding the health your grass, not only for the immediate future, but also for the next growing season. While on the surface your fall lawn may look a bit bedraggled, the roots below ground are still hard at work, storing up the reserves they’ll need to survive the winter and to thrive come springtime.
Though at other times of year there are reasons to choose a fast-acting liquid fertilizer, in autumn—about a week after you mow the lawn for the last time—it’s best to apply a slow-release granular fertilizer. While the liquid stuff delivers a sudden jolt of nutrients, the granular variety feeds grass slowly over time. In most parts of the country, that’s exactly what you want. In very cold regions, pick a fertilizer specially formulated for winter protection, one that’s high in nitrogen. If you’re lucky enough to live somewhere warm, you already know that fertilizing is a year-round affair. For you, fall isn’t so critical. (Boy, you’ve got it made!)
Theoretically, you could spread granular fertilizer over the lawn by hand. The reality is, however, that doing the job manually leaves too much room for error. While underfertilizing isn’t a catastrophe, overfertilizing is a real concern, and it’s easy to apply fertilizer too abundantly if you’re totally winging it.
Indeed, there’s a reason why professional landscapers use walk-behind spreaders. These outdoor tools include a flow-rate lever, which enables the user to set the precise amount of fertilizer to be dispersed per square foot of lawn area. If you’re serious about lawn care, a spreader is a tool worth buying.
You’ll notice that on your purchased package of fertilizer, the manufacturer lists the ideal number of granules to be applied per square foot. You can set the spreader to output precisely that amount, but here’s a superior method: Set the spreader to disperse half of the recommended volume, run the spreader over the lawn in one direction, then take it in the reverse direction, hitting the areas you initially missed. Because the effects of fertilizer are confined to the area immediately surrounding the spot where the granule hits the ground, the key to success is even dispersion. But when in doubt, underfertilize.
Once you’ve completed the work, clean the spreader before storing it away. Otherwise, the metal components might rust over the course of the off-season. If you’re left with a partially full bag of fertilizer, seal it airtight and keep it in a dry place. Exposed to the air, fertilizer hardens up and becomes unusable.
• Fill the spreader in the driveway, not the lawn, to avoid spilling and overfertilizing one particular area.
• For the spreader to operate correctly, both the tool and the fertilizer granules must be dry.
• Wearing gloves is a sensible precaution to take when you’re handling fertilizer granules.
- Flooring & Stairs >
- How To: Remove Vinyl Flooring
How To: Remove Vinyl Flooring
Have you had it with that dated, dirty, and dilapidated vinyl floor? Here's how to remove it, so you never have to look at it again.
Let’s be clear: It’s no fun to remove vinyl flooring. Peeling up the material itself is no picnic, but the real trial is to get rid of the glue that had been securing the vinyl to the subfloor. The only silver lining here is that while tedious and time-consuming, it’s certainly not complicated to remove vinyl flooring. No special tools or advanced skills are required. It’s really only a matter of elbow grease. Follow the steps below to get the job done with a minimum of frustration.
Next, locate a section of the floor with no glue underneath. Start here, using a utility knife to cut the vinyl flooring into 12-inch strips. Pull up each one gently. Where you encounter resistance from the glue, use a scraper tool (or even a kitchen spatula) to get the strip loose. In places where the glue is especially tenacious, you can use a hammer-and-chisel combination to chip at the hardened adhesive.
If you’re stuck with an area where the vinyl has been removed but the glue remains lodged on the subfloor, try this: Combine warm water and soap in a bucket, then apply it liberally to the glue, allowing time for the mixture to soak in. When you return, the glue will have softened and become easier to remove.
No dice? OK, it’s time to bring some heat into the equation. Buy or rent a heat gun—or in a pinch, use your hair dryer—and hold it directly over the stubborn adhesive long enough to soften the glue (but not long enough to cause any damage to the subfloor). Then go at the glue with your trusty scraper.
Finish with some cleanup: Use a broom or shop vac to pick up all the debris that now litters the room.
If the above seems like way too much work, there’s always the option of renting a power scraper from your local home center. There’s a cost attached to bringing in such a tool, but it will certainly make much quicker work of things. If you opt for the power scraper, be sure to test it first in an inconspicuous area; you will need to adjust its angle so that it removes only the vinyl-and-glue layer, not the underlying subfloor. Score the vinyl into 10-inch sections with the utility knife, then turn on the scraper and get busy.
Until the mid-1980s, asbestos often served as an ingredient in vinyl flooring products. If you know that the installation you’re dealing with has been around that long—or if you’re not certain how long the vinyl floor has been there—it’s only common sense to have the material tested before proceeding. I believe in hiring pros when it’s appropriate, and in the case of asbestos-laced vinyl flooring, it’s eminently appropriate to pay people who know what they are doing.
- Tools & Workshop >
- HGTV Opens the Door to a Beloved 90s Star
HGTV Opens the Door to a Beloved 90s Star
We're always eager to peek inside a celebrity's home, but to watch a beloved star sweat the design details and chip in on the work site—that's a real treat. Jennie Garth's new show on HGTV has us hooked.
Color us impressed: Best known for her role in the long-running series 90210, Jennie Garth has opened her large-scale home renovation to HGTV viewers in a new show, The Jennie Garth Project. In its debut episode last week, we were introduced us to the ’70s ranch in the Hollywood Hills that Garth plans to re-do in her own style. As it turns out, she has done serious work on several houses in the past. But this is the first time that she’s overseeing the design decisions—and the numbers.
The premiere focuses on the living room. Here, on the wall facing the garden, Garth is working with Harrison-Anderson General Contractors to replace windows with glass pocket doors. Also on the agenda: installing new hardwoods, repairing the crumbling fireplace, and refinishing the wood ceiling. Since Garth and her children are going to live in the house upon the work’s completion, the stakes are high. Choices matter, not for resale, but for the home’s livability. And mistakes made will be ones she has to live with.
Garth tackles some tough calls along the way, with budget constraints and limitations of space forcing compromise. At one point, she finds out that seven inches must be sacrificed either from the kitchen or the master bedroom closet. It’s the sort of lose-lose moment of impossible frustration that we can all relate to.
There are many more reasons to watch. Our favorite part? The simple tips we’re snagging from a beautiful blonde many idolized (or pined after) as teenagers. When evaluating how much a new fireplace would block the view to her yard, Garth snappily built a cardboard replica to help her visualize its effect. Smart.
Tune in for more tips from Garth and to watch her exciting project unfold; the next episode airs tomorrow at 9PM. For more viewing times and renovation photos, visit HGTV.