Category: How To’s & Quick Tips

DIY Mason Jar Solar Lamp

Country style meets eco-smarts in this spectacularly simple DIY mason jar solar lantern.

Thumbs Up

When the words mason jar and solar lamp come together in the same sentence, I don’t care who you are—you get excited. Because this jar is awesome. And adorable. And did I mention you’re saving the planet too? So get excited, yo.

Mason Jar Solar Lamp - Banner

This is a great project for people with minimal crafty skills, (like me). Once you wrap wire around it and hang it in your yard, you don’t have to think about it ever again. Evening light + powered by the sun = awesome.

Mason Jar Solar Lamp - Complete


Let’s get to it, shall we?

- Quart size wide-mouth mason jar
- 16-gauge baling wire
- Solar-powered mason lid

Mason Jar Solar Lamp - Lid


Cut a piece of wire to 12.5 inches. Wrap around the lip of the mason jar and loop together— but leave it loose.

Mason Jar Solar Lamp - Wire


Cut another piece of wire to 14 inches and loop the ends around the first wire.

Mason Jar Solar Lamp - Wire 2


After you’ve tightened both sides of your handle, you can go back and tighten the front loops on the first ring of wire.

Mason Jar Solar Lamp - Wire 3


Now all you need to do is put a battery in your LED solar light lid and screw that puppy on!

I have found that the solar lights need at least 6 hours of full sun to light up well at night. So as long as you hang them in a place where they can get recharged for half of the day, you’ll always have light in the evenings! After your initial investment in the supplies, it really is the gift that keeps giving. I’m thinking of placing these all around my outside table—can’t you just picture the amazing summer evenings with these to light our conversations with family and friends?

Mason Jar Solar Lamp - Night Detail


Thanks, Weed ‘Em And Reap!

How To: Remove Sticker Residue

The next time your new purchase, be it glassware, a toy, or electronics, is marred by a stubborn sticker, try one of these household remedies for getting the glue off.

How to Remove Sticker Residue


These days, each and every time you buy something new, the product seems to come with a sticker on it. Usually, that sticker comes off easily enough, but the residue it leaves behind can be a real pain to remove. If you’re tired of wasting time trying to clean bits of glue off your recent purchases, try one of the following tricks. Each involves a common household staple you probably already have in your kitchen, and all are bound to be more effective than your fingernail alone.

Detail - Stickers


Cooking Oil
Reach for the cooking oil next time you want to remove sticker residue. Dab any oil—olive, canola, sunflower, or another type—onto a paper towel, then lay that towel over the gunk that refuses to budge. Wait a few minutes while the oil works to dissolve the stubborn glue. Finally, remove the towel and rub away the sticker residue with your fingers or a plastic scraper (it should come off rather easily). A degree of caution is necessary with this method, because many oils can stain absorbent materials. Concerned? Test a drop of your chosen oil on an inconspicuous part of the object. Proceed only if the oil leaves no trace.

Rubbing Alcohol
Rubbing alcohol is another option for removing sticker residue. (In a pinch, you could even use vodka!) The process is no different from the one you’d follow if you were using cooking oil. Simply dampen a paper towel with the alcohol, lay that towel over the sticky area, then wait a few minutes while the fluid dissolves the glue. Finish by rubbing away the remaining residue with your fingers or a plastic scraper.

When diluted with water, a mild acid like vinegar works well to remove sticker residue. Soak a dishrag in the solution, then wrap the cloth around the object, leaving the vinegar to perform its magic for a few minutes. Remove the cloth, and you should find that the glue has become considerably less sticky.

Some gurus of gunk attest that above all other methods applying mayonnaise ranks as the ultimate way to remove sticker residue. Given that mayonnaise combines two of the ingredients mentioned elsewhere in this discussion (oil and vinegar), it doesn’t seem so far-fetched that mayonnaise would prove effective. Its use, however, should be limited to nonporous surfaces, as it’s liable to stain materials that are absorbent.

Weekend Projects: 5 Beautifully Basic DIY Bookends

Display your favorite books—and your individuality—with a pair of custom-made bookends. Here are five designs you can make in a weekend.

If you have a few especially beloved books in your collection, why not use a pair of DIY bookends to set them apart as a reminder to yourself and a message to your guests? Though making DIY bookends entails some time and effort, the immensely rewarding results can last for years. Scroll down now to see five of our favorite bookends made by creative and stylish do-it-yourselfers. Then either mimic their ideas or let their designs inspire your own signature set.



DIY Bookends - Dioramas


You can stock up on hiking guides and trail maps, or you can invite nature onto your shelf another way: with wilderness-themed DIY bookends. In your local craft store, there’s a section devoted to the supplies needed to put together this diorama. Sand and stain a couple of wood blocks, then glue on the tiny scene of your choice.



DIY Bookends - Toys


Here’s a way to make some “ferociously” fun DIY bookends for a kid’s room. For each bookend, glue and nail two pieces of wood at right angles, forming an L-shaped base. Prime and spray-paint the two wood bases as well as your chosen figurines. Finally, hot-glue the toys to the painted wood. Voilà: one-of-a-kind decor!



DIY Bookends - Mason Jars


Do the wonders of spray paint ever cease? Choose a can of paint that features a bold, eye-catching color you love, and use it to transform a couple of canning jars into DIY bookends. (If you don’t have glass jars in the pantry, they can be purchased for a song). Once the paint has dried, fill the jars with pebbles or sand for added weight.



DIY Bookends - Vinyl Records


For years you’ve held on to a crate full of vinyl records. Choose two, remove them from their sleeves, and then—are you ready for this?—you can actually shape them into retro chic DIY bookends! Run the records under hot water until they’re pliable, then bend them into right angles. Just be careful not to ruin the labels!



DIY Bookends - Brick


For DIY bookends like these, you need only a couple of bricks, painter’s tape, and your choice of spray-paint colors. Use the tape to mark off a pleasing geometric design, then spray on a combination of contrasting or complementary colors. There may be no easier—or cheaper—way to control the chaos on your shelves.

How To: Remove Paint from Concrete

Removing paint from concrete is a time-consuming endeavor, but a determined DIYer is certainly up to the task. Here's how to get it done right.

How to Remove Paint from Concrete


Concrete is porous, which means that it readily absorbs liquids like paint. With this ease of penetration, paint can seep millimeters deep into a concrete surface. As a result, it can be a challenge to remove paint from concrete, but it can certainly be done. How long will it take? That depends on the size of the area you’re dealing with. But it’s safe to expect that you won’t be knocking this out before lunch. Think of removing paint from concrete as an ongoing process, not as an item for your weekend to-do list.

- Broom (or clean cotton rag)
- Trisodium phosphate (TSP)
- Long-handled brush
- Putty knife
- Chemical paint stripper
- Protective gear
- Pressure washer
- Clay powder or kitty litter (optional)

When you set out to remove paint from concrete, the first thing to do is clean the surface of the concrete thoroughly. Prepare a solution of soap and water, or better yet, diluted trisodium phosphate (TSP)—in which case, be sure to wear gloves. Meanwhile, sweep or wipe off the concrete, removing as much loose dust, dirt, and debris as possible. Now proceed to work the soapy water or TSP into the concrete by means of a long-handled brush. Rinse the area afterward, allowing one to three hours for the surface to dry.

How to Remove Paint from Concrete - Detail Concrete


If some of the paint has already begun to chip or peel, scrape it away with a putty knife. Having done so, get ready to apply the chemical paint stripper. You need to use one designed for the type of paint you’re trying to remove. In other words, use oil-based paint stripper on a surface coated by oil-based paint. Not sure which type of paint is on the concrete? If you’re uncertain, your best bet is to opt for an oil-based paint stripper.

Once you’ve covered the concrete with a generous layer of paint stripper, let it sit for six to eight hours. During that time, a chemical reaction will take place, the magical result of which is the removal of paint. Remember that if you’re working with paint stripper, it’s imperative that you wear the appropriate protective gear: a respirator (or at minimum, a dust mask), long sleeves, and good pair of rubber gloves.

For this stage of the job, so long as you’re working on a compact concrete patch, you can probably get by with a wire scrub brush or a paint scraper. On a larger surface, to make things much more manageable, it’s recommended that you rent a pressure washer from your local home center (or borrow one from a neighbor).

Having set the pressure washer at 3,000 psi, go ahead and blast away the paint stripper residue. Soon enough, you will see whether or not it will be necessary to repeat Step 2. It’s not unreasonable to anticipate having to apply and then wash away multiple applications of paint stripper.

Paint Spills
What if you spill a gallon of paint on the garage floor, or accidentally leave a thick splatter of bright orange paint on the driveway? To clean it up, you would follow the same basic steps outlined above, with one important exception. Instead of applying a layer of paint stripper alone to the concrete, you would apply a paste made from the stripper and a superabsorbent material, such as finely ground clay powder or pulverized kitty litter.

Nonchemical Solutions
There are alternatives to using a paint stripper, but they’re all more labor-intensive. For instance, on a concrete surface of modest size, you can opt to use an orbital sander. Likewise, a floor buffer can get the job done on a larger scale. But perhaps the most effective nontoxic option is a soda blaster, a tool very much like a sandblaster, except that instead of sand, it shoots out sodium bicarbonate (baking soda). You can most likely rent one—and buy the baking soda in bulk—at your local home center. Because all of the above options create fine particles, a dust mask or respirator is a must if you’re working indoors.

DIY Plumbing Pipe Bed Frame

We love how That's My Letter, inspired by designs from popular retailers, created an industrial chic bed frame that's undeniably her own.

DIY Pipe Fitting Bed

We combined wood boards with galvanized steel pipes to make this twin bed. It’s a match made in heaven, with a different type of build requiring very little tools except your hands to screw the pipes together. Inspired by both the Pottery Barn Owen Bed and RH Baby’s Industrial Steel Pipe Bed, we married the two designs for this DIY version.

Knock Off Decor Bed Frame

steel pipe $466
lumber $54

- (2) – 1x8x8 pine boards
- (1) – 1x8x6 pine board
- (2) – 2x4x8 studs
- (8) – 1x3x8 furring strips
- 2” wood screws
- 1 ½” wood screws

Galvanized Steel:
- (2) – 1” pipe @ 75”l
- (4) – 1” pipe @ 18”l
- (5) – ¾” pipe @ 36”l
- (14) – 1” nipple @ 8”l
- (4) – 1” close nipple
- (14) – 1” threaded tee
- (4) – 1” 90 degree elbow
- (4) – 1” x 1 ¼” coupling (feet)
- (2) – 1” threaded coupling
- (10) – 1” x ¾” bushing
- (20) – 1” split ring pipe hanger, cut to length and threaded at hardware store

- measuring tape
- square
- pencil

- (5) – 1×8 @ 37 ¾”l (wood slats)
- (2) – 2×4 @ 74”l (platform supports)
- (16) – 1×3 furring @ 41 ¼”l (mattress supports)

DIY Pipe Bed Front View

- No glue was used on any pipes or pipe-to-wood connections.
- Hand tighten pipe connections until you are confident of pipe placement, this allows you to unscrew if necessary – that’s the beauty of working with pipe.

1. The most difficult portion will be connecting the siderails to the footboard and headboard since the pipe screws together in the same direction on both ends (if you’re screwing in one end essentially you are unscrewing the other end simultaneously). Follow the step by step instructions carefully.

DIY Pipe Bed Materials

2. Start with one footboard leg:

DIY Pipe Bed How To Steps

3. Then begin the other leg, foot portion only and connect the siderails.

DIY Pipe Bed How to Step 4

4. Do the same for the headboard except opposite, completed headboard leg attaches to siderail with footboard foot portion only leg.  Completed footboard leg attaches to siderail with headboard foot portion only.  This allows you to screw siderail completely into tees by swinging the foot portions around and around.

5. Then begin connecting the horizontal pipe support section using 1″ close nipple.

DIY Pipe Bed How to Step 5

6. Prepare the wood slats, I stained my boards using Minwax weathered oak.

Attach the split ring clamp hangers:

DIY Pipe Bed How to Step 7

7. Then place wood slat on footboard and screw in 1″ x 8″ nipple:

DIY Pipe Bed Footboard

8. Add next horizontal pipe and tee section:

DIY Pipe Bed How to Step 9

9. Screw clamp into position centering board between horizontal pipes:

DIY Pipe Bed How to Step 10

10. At the top screw two 18″ pieces together using 1″ coupling:

DIY Pipe Bed Headboard

11. Build the mattress support:

DIY Pipe Bed How to Step 12

12. Add mattress and bedding!

DIY Pipe Bed Finished

Thanks, That’s My Letter!

DIY Plumbing Pipe Console Table

We think it's a match made in heaven: Metal pipe fittings and rough-hewn wood look spectacular together. Here, handmaidtales combines the two in a compact console table that's not only eye-catching, but also remarkably easy to make.

Finished DIY Pipe Table

One of the great perks of building your own furniture is that you can customize it to fit your needs. There are so many sizes and fittings of black pipe, you can basically create any shape you want. The barn wood we had was 62 inches long and about 14 inches wide and we bought pipe to fit it, but if you’re building your own, you may want to get different sizes based on the size wood you choose. Black pipe can be cut and threaded to any length you choose. We chose 3/4 diameter pipe because we liked how substantial it looks.

DIY Pipe Console Table Front View

- (4) 3/4 diameter 21″ nipples for the legs (We had 24″ lengths cut down and threaded.)
- (6) 3/4 T’s
- (1) 3/4 48 nipple” for the cross bar support
- (4) 3/4 5″ nipple for the legs above the joints
- (4) 3/4 3″ nipples for the horizontal support
- (8) 3/4 floor flanges to act as feet, and to connect the base to the table
- 1 can of Rustoleum High Performance enamel in flat black
- Wood screws (We used inch and a half long screws because our wood top is so thick.)

Our material cost was about $125 (black pipe isn’t cheap!) but that’s still a whole lot less than some of the other console table options I liked and we were able to customize the length. I also wanted to be able to fit our ottomans underneath so we could have a bit of extra seating when we need it.

Our process was pretty straight forward. Once we decided on 3/4 diameter pipe, we just played with the fittings at Home Depot until we got the look and stability we needed to support our heavy wooden slab.

Salvaged Wood Barn Door Table

We initially thought we wanted a shelf too, but once we spied this huge slab in our pile of salvaged wood, we knew that keeping it simple was a better idea. It’s got so much character; saw marks, wormholes, etc. We didn’t do anything to it except give a wipe down and a quick coat of teak oil to even out the color and bring out a little bit of depth.

Salvaged Wood Table

I initially thought we would cut down the board to be closer to 52 inches, but once we had everything put together, we decided to leave the edges as is. Once the base was assembled, I took it out to the backyard and seriously cleaned it. Black pipe always has a ton of cutting oil residue, so before I painted it I gave it a really thorough cleaning with a degreaser. I used Rust-Oleum High Performance Enamel spray paint in flat black. I only had to do one coat to even out the color over the whole base. Once it was dry we simply screwed it on out board upside down and voila! Gorgeous, rustic/industrial table.

DIY Pipe Table Final View

Thanks, handmaidtales!

DIY Plumbing Pipe Light Fixture

This pipe-fitting project proves that big style doesn't need to cost big bucks. The tall lamp, which resembles exposed plumbing pipes, was modeled after a more expensive store-bought model and strikes an interesting balance between rustic and contemporary design.

DIY Pipe Lamp

This DIY Anthropologie-inspired pipe lamp is time consuming, but when you compare price tags, it’s well worth the effort.

Anthropologie’s price: $2,800
DIY price: $86


- Different sizes and kinds of pipes in various textures. Have a sketch with you when you buy the materials in order to procure the right combinations.
- Copper or bronze spray paint
- Wood spindle pieces. You can find these by the stair railing parts.
- Rub ‘n Buff. I used the Patina and Gold.
- Wood stain in 2 shades
- Elbows. Be sure you get enough for each bend and that they are in the right size.
- Little black screws ground down so only the heads are left (or wood discs sprayed black)
- Tube straps to hold the lamp to the wall
- A base
- A light kit. Be sure the cord is over 10 feet in length
- Super strong adhesive

DIY Pipe Lamp Materials


 The most important element of this Anthropologie-style pipe lamp is the various textures and finishes of all of the pieces. Try to give each pipe its own look.

Use the spray paint and Rub ‘n Buff to achieve different looks. Mix and match. Sand, buff, repeat.

DIY Pipe Lamp Tutorial


Drill the wooden pieces.

Either you will need to cut the wood pieces to sizes small enough for a traditional drill bit and then glue them back together. Or . . . get a specialty drill bit. Then, find any way you can to add wood elements. Get creative!

Be sure that you drill the hole large enough for the cord to be ran through.

Stain and sand. Stain and sand. You need to fake worn edges and use.

DIY Pipe Lamp How to Step 2


Spray your PVC elbows with copper paint. Much cheaper then buying the real thing!


Drill holes through your base for the cord to run through.


Do a dry run. Lay your lamp out on the floor until you get the shape you want.

DIY Pipe Lamp How to Step 5


Run your cord through the pieces, being sure to leave plenty of cord at the top and bottom.


Glue the pieces together one at a time. Be very sure they are straight and true. Wait until one is dry, pull the cord tight, and move on to the next one.

DIY Pipe Lamp How to Step 7


Attach the screws with adhesive. I attached 3 at each end of the PVC elbows.

DIY Pipe Lamp How to Step 8


Wire the lamp kit. This is fairly simple to do; just follow the directions.


Attach the light to the wall with the tube straps and attach a shade. This shade was created by hot-gluing fabric to an old dirty one.

Voila! Your very own pipe lamp!

DIY Pipe Lamp in Use

Thank you, NellieBellie!

DIY Plumbing Pipe Curtain Rod

We think the size and shape of plumbing pipes make them a perfect stand-in for a curtain rod. Spray painted dark for a more industrial flair, this DIY project helps pull together DIY office decor.

DIY Pipe Curtain Rod

Pipe curtain rods are super popular right now and very easy to make!

I used the following supplies to make the ones seen in my office’s progress:

- (2) 3/4″ floor flanges
- (2) 3/4″ x 1 1/2″ nipples
- (2) 3/4″, 90-degree elbows
- (1) 72″ long pipe (or however long you want your rod to be) // Not shown

DIY Pipe Curtain Rod Materials

Note: If you need a really long curtain rod (say 8′ or longer), you’ll need two pieces of pipe (say 4′ each) and a tee pipe in the middle so nothing sags or rips out of your wall.

- Drill
- Tape measure
- Level
- Stud finder
- Ladder or tall step stool
- Pencil
- Heavy duty anchors + the screws that go with them (if you can’t find a stud)
- Screws (if you can find a stud)

- 1 can of oil-rubbed bronze spray paint (or your color of choice)
- Curtain rings (optional)
- Gloves (gardening, kitchen, etc.)
- An extra set of helping hands

Assemble two sets of the floor flanges, nipples, and 90-degree elbows into “arms” like so:

How to Make DIY Pipe Curtain Rod

Tip: wear your gloves (gardening, kitchen, etc.) when you’re screwing everything together so you don’t get little cuts from the pipe’s threading on your finger tips!

Your pipe is what’s being used as the curtain rod and it’ll run from elbow to elbow. Don’t screw it into the 90-degree elbows just yet. After you have your curtain rod “arms” assembled, spray paint everything (including the long pipe) the color of your choice.

Spray Paint DIY Pipe Curtain Rod

Spray Paint Pipe

Once the paint has dried and is no longer sticky (I waited 24 hours), measure out the placement of where you’d like the curtain rod to be on your wall. Remember: curtains look best when they’re hung high and wide!

Find studs if you can since the rod + curtains added to it can be a bit heavy and you probably don’t want everything crashing down at 2am! If you can’t find studs, use heavy duty anchors instead.

Unscrew one of your arm pieces so you can screw one of the floor flanges into place where you marked your measurements on your wall. Once that’s secure, screw the rest of the arm (the 1 1/2″ nipple + the 90-degree elbow) into the floor flange until your “arm” looks like this:

How to Install DIY Curtain Rod

Next, screw one end of the long pipe into the end of the 90-degree elbow that’s attached to the arm that you just screwed into the wall. This is where it’s nice to have an extra set of helping hands so one of you can screw the pipe into the elbow while the other holds the pipe up so it doesn’t fall on your head! After you’ve screwed one end of the pipe in, slide your curtain rings onto the pipe.

If you’re not using curtain rings and simply sliding the curtains onto the pipe, do that step now but know that everything is going to become extra heavy from the weight of the fabric hanging down from the pipe!

Once your rings/curtains are on the pipe, switch places with your partner and screw the other side of the long pipe into the 90-degree elbow that’s attached to the arm you haven’t screwed into the wall yet. Since this arm isn’t screwed into the wall yet, we’ll need to mark the placement of its screws.

Hold the floor flange tight against the wall while your partner grabs the level. Make sure the entire curtain rod is level before marking the screw’s placement!

Now this is the tricky part: if you didn’t find any studs, you’ll need to unscrew the long pipe from the arm that’s already attached to the wall so you can put your anchors into the exact location of the marks you just made on the wall without there being a pipe in the way. Then you’ll need to screw the arm back onto the long pipe so you can screw the floor flange into the wall. You won’t be able to put a screw into the hole behind the pipe (see below) because the pipe is in the way but that’s OK!

If you did find studs, leave all of the pieces screwed together and have you or your partner hold the pipe in place while the other person screws the floor flange into the wall. It’s a bit of a pain to do but it can be done!

After everything is all said and done and your pipe curtain rod is securely hung, take a step back and admire your work!

Installing DIY Pipe Curtain Rod

If you slid your curtains onto the rod sans rings, fluff them up and space them out how you see fit. If you added curtain rings, it’s time to start ringing your curtains up!

I like to do a faux pinch pleat treatment to my curtains. It sounds fancy but it’s really not! Basically you take a little bit of the curtains fabric and pinch it together in the back. Then you clip the curtain ring about 1/2″ to an 1″ below the top onto the pinched part like so:

DIY Pipe Curtain Rod and Curtain

Repeat as many more times as you have curtain rings.

Fluff everything up, hem the curtains if needed (on my to-do list!), and then marvel at your handiwork.

Home Office Decor

Thank you, Desert Domicile!

DIY Modern Candleholder

One of the incredible things about plumbing pipe fittings is their inherent versatility—and these DIY candelabras prove that point. We love that these candle holders can be rearranged like building blocks when you're ready for a new look.

This industrial chic candelabra can be created at home with nothing more than a handful of pipe fittings and some spare time. Get creative—the designs you can make with this material are endless.

DIY Pipe Fitting Candlabra

½” Iron Pipe Fittings

Tip: For a grand display with lots of curves, purchase more elbows.

Plan out your design before you purchase your parts so you have a good idea of which pieces you’ll need.

Assemble iron pipe fittings to make a rustic, modern candelabra. Once you have a collection of pipe fittings, you can assemble them into all sorts of different arrangements.

DIY Pipe Fitting Candle Holders

Paint your new candle holder with heat resistant paint or leave it unpainted for a more industrial look.

DIY Pipe Fitting Candle Holder

If you get bored of a particular piece, simply take it apart and make something else with it.

Industrial Chic Candelabra

Thanks, HomeMade Modern!

DIY Plumbing Pipe Vase

We love the artful juxtaposition of flowers displayed in an industrial-looking vase—like this sculptural beauty from Today's Nest.

If you are like me, you are probably ready for the beauty of spring. Flowers will soon be blooming everywhere and you may be looking for new and inventive ways to bring some of the outdoors inside.

DIY Pipe Vase

Here’s a simple vase project that will add some industrial flair to your tabletop. With just a few pieces from the local home improvement store we have created a vessel for a chic floral arrangement. Make it as directed or make a bigger one with more elbows and T’s to suit your needs.

How to Make DIY Pipe Vase


- (1) 1”x5” galvanized pipe
- (1) 1”x6” galvanized pipe
- (1) 1”x8” galvanized pipe
- (1) 1” galvanized T fitting
- (3) 1” 90˚ galvanized elbow fitting
- (3) 1”xCLOSE galvanized pipe
- (3) 1” galvanized connectors
- White plumbers tape
- Gloves
- Water
- Flowers

Flowers in DIY Pipe Vase

Thoroughly clean the galvanized pipes and fittings. Assemble the base first by attaching one of the 1”xCLOSE pipes to each open end of the T fitting. Before attaching, wrap the threaded end of each pipe tightly with white plumber’s tape. Attach an elbow to the open end of each of the 1”xCLOSE pipes. Tighten snugly by inserting a screwdriver into the opening of the elbow and spinning it around.

Attach the 6″ and 8″ pipes to the elbows on the long part of the T fitting. Attach the 3″ pipe to the elbow on the short part of the T fitting. Attach connectors to the top of each of the pipes.

Wearing a pair of gloves (I learned the hard way that the threads will cut your hands), tighten all connections at tightly as possible. Fill the vase with water at the lowest pipe. The other pipes will be filled to the same level. Add flowers.

Finished DIY Pipe Vase

Thanks, Today’s Nest!