Photo: motherearthnews.com

To safely and productively operate a chain saw, you must commit to maintaining it. Keep your chain saw in tip-top shape, not only to protect yourself but also to promote the tool’s longevity. Follow these guidelines:

• First things first, read the owner’s manual; it’s the only way to be certain you’re establishing the right maintenance routine. Though most are very similar, some important differences exist between machines. Learn the best practices recommended by the manufacturer of your specific make and model.

Photo: lowes.com

• Problems with chain saws are usually caused by a chain that has become either dull or improperly tensioned. If it seems like your chain saw is laboring, switch to a new chain. (Meanwhile, sharpen the old chain with a chain saw file or a rotary grinder; alternatively, hire a pro.) Before each use of your chain saw, check the tension on the chain. If it’s correctly adjusted, the chain will fit snugly against the bar—but not so tightly that a gloved hand would be unable to move it around.

• The chain should be clean and lubricated. Before each use, make sure the oil reservoir is full. And if wood chips and sawdust accumulate, stop and clean the chain before continuing.

• Before each use, check and tighten all screws, bolts, and nuts. These components have a tendency to loosen on account of the tool’s vibration.

• Inspect the chain brake mechanism for tightness and positioning in order to protect yourself from kickback during operation.

• Clean or replace the air filter whenever it becomes clogged. Likewise, optimal performance depends on the air intake and cooling fins being free of dirt and debris.

• Use the correct blend of oil and gas to power the engine. When fueling, make sure the fuel filler cap fits tightly and is neither cracked nor worn-down.

• Clean or replace the fuel filter and spark plugs regularly, and whenever the engine is running roughly or misfiring, clean and adjust the carburetor.

• If heavily worn, replace the hoses and/or the pull-start rope.

• Remove the clutch cover and clean the chain brake band.

• Check the idle speed and if necessary, make an adjustment. When a chain saw is idling, the chain should not move. If you notice it moving, turn down the idle speed so that the chain remains stationary.

• If you are not going to be using the chain saw for several months, drain all fuel from the tank and exhaust that which remains in the lines or carburetor by running the saw until it stops. Remove the chain and store it in oil within a tightly covered container.

A chain saw is a valuable investment that can withstand years of punishing service. Following a set of simple maintenance steps will ensure that your tool continues to work properly and most importantly, safely.

For more on outdoor tools, consider:

How To: Use a Leaf Blower
Should You Buy a Used Riding Mower?
Mower Maintenance: 5 Ways to Keep Your Machine Up and Running

Regular Maintenance Is Critical to Chain Saw Operation Home Improvement, Home Remodeling & Home Repair - BobVila.com

Photo: shutterstock.com

Let’s face it: Many homes today feature inadequate, poorly positioned, and sometimes plain-old ugly light fixtures. But you don’t have to live with anything you don’t love, especially when so many ceiling-mounted and hanging fixtures can be found on the market. Since new ceiling light fixtures come with mounting hardware, replacing an existing unit is easy—even for the novice do-it-yourselfer.

Step 1. Remove the old fixture
Turn off electricity to the room at the main circuit breaker panel. Double-check that power has been cut by locating and testing the light switch that controls your ceiling fixture. Next, carefully unscrew and remove the canopy of the old fixture. With the junction box visible, remove the wire nuts and separate the supply wiring from the old fixture. Carefully examine the wires for damage, and if none are frayed or broken, leave the wires exposed for the new fixture.

Step 2. Examine the junction box
Having confirmed that your existing junction box is securely fastened to the ceiling joist, make sure it will be sturdy enough to handle the weight of your replacement fixture. If the new fixture weighs substantially more than the old one, it may be necessary to install an accessory mounting strap or support rod. (Either can be installed next to the junction box so that, once installed, the fixture hides the hardware.)

Related: Trending Now: Pendant Lighting

Step 3. If installing a hanging fixture
Most hanging lights have a supporting chain or cable, through which (or next to) the wires should be threaded (or hung). I recommend using the paint tray of your stepladder to prop up the fixture, while you feed its wires up to the junction box. Carefully guide the fixture wires through the canopy, ceiling plate, and hanging bracket of your new fixture. Strip about a half-inch off of the fixture wires and about a half-inch off of the supply wires.

Photo: goodceilinglight.com

Step 4. Connecting the wires
Most new fixtures are color-coded with black and white wire. Twist together the stripped, bare end of the fixture’s black wire with the stripped, bare end of the supply line’s black wire. Secure the connection with a wire nut, then repeat the process with the white wire. Many fixtures also have a bare copper or green-sheathed ground wire, which should be twisted onto the mounting bracket’s copper or green grounding screw. Now carefully tuck the wires into the junction box, put a bulb in the fixture, and turn the circuit breaker on. If the light works, that means your wiring connections have been successful. Before continuing, turn the circuit breaker off again.

Related: 16 Spectacular Light Fixtures to Improve Your Space

Step 5. Securing the fixture
Screw the ceiling plate to the mounting strap or support rod, then put the mounting stem onto the ceiling plate. At this point, make sure that the installation is secure and that the fixture is hanging at the proper height. (If the chain is too long, you can remove links or loop the extra chain around the mounting stem.) Slide the canopy into place so that it covers the mounting hardware; tighten the locknut to hold the canopy in place. Finally, install the correct bulbs, turn the electricity back on, and admire the radiance of your new ceiling light fixture!

For more on lighting, consider:

How To: Devise a Lighting Plan
Bob Vila Radio: Types of Lighting
Choosing the Right Energy-Saving Bulb and Fixture

How To: Replace a Ceiling Light Fixture Home Improvement, Home Remodeling & Home Repair - BobVila.com

The Honeywell VisionPro Programmable Touchscreen Thermostat at PexSupply.com

Looking for a small home improvement that yields big results? A programmable thermostat, properly installed and configured, helps maintain a comfortable indoor temperate while reducing your home’s overall energy usage.

Several factors come into play when choosing a thermostat: how much flexibility you want in the programming, your voltage requirement, and the type of heating and cooling system you have. You must also decide on a user interface. Yet another consideration is what style of mounting system suits your installation.

The primary types of thermostats are:

Heat Only. This type works only with a single heating source. According to Daniel, tech specialist at online retailer PexSupply.com, ”A programmable thermostat is a good way to lower your energy bills when using a forced hot air or baseboard heating system.”

Cool Only. This works only with a single cooling source.

Single Stage Heat/Cool. This type of thermostat controls one heating source and one cooling source—for example, a baseboard heating system and a central air conditioning system.

Multi-Stage Heat/Cool. This type of thermostat is used to control multiple heating and cooling sources—for example, a heat pump with a supplementary forced hot air backup system, plus an air conditioning system.

Electric Heat/Line Voltage. This type is used to control electric heaters or electric baseboard systems.

Heat Pump. Heat pump applications require a specialized thermostat that can handle air-source heat pumps and ground-source heat pumps.

Fan Coil. This type works with fan coil units, such as unit ventilators.

Millivolt. This type is used to regulate systems that utilize a pilot light rather than an electrical circuit (e.g., a gas-fired heater or gas fireplace).

Programmable thermostats are a desirable alternative to non-programmable models, because they allow the user to heat and cool the home based on a specific schedule. Most programmable models have four “set points”. These allow the user to define different temperatures for morning, daytime, evening and overnight. Some thermostats offer 24-hour programmability.

You can also establish different programs for different days of the week. A “7 Day”-style programmable thermostat enables you to have a different program for every day of the week. With a ”5-1-1″ model, there is a five-day program for Monday through Friday, plus a program for Saturday and a different program for Sunday. A “5-2″-style thermostat gives you a five-day program for the work week, plus a two-day program for the weekend. Most programmable thermostats also feature a manual mode, allowing overrides to whatever program may have been established already.

All thermostats run on either line voltage or low voltage. Low-voltage thermostats are connected using very thin doorbell or speaker wire. Line voltage thermostats require a heavier wire. Also available are wireless thermostats. Indoor and outdoor remote sensors can be found easily, as well. Many new thermostats are able to be programmed via internet, smartphone, or tablet.

Some thermostats come with an auto-changeover switch, which shifts the unit between heating and cooling automatically, depending on the indoor temperature. Other styles must be manually changed from heat to cool and vice versa.

Non-programmable thermostats typically have a mechanical user interface—either a rotating dial or a sliding lever. Programmable thermostats come with either a digital button and digital screen interface, or a back-lit digital touchscreen interface.

Face plates and mount styles can be horizontal, vertical, or round.

Online retailer PexSupply.com sells a wide variety of programmable thermostats, including leading brands Honeywell, White Rodgers, Robertshaw, Lux, Wirsbo and Tekmar. It also offers accessories, such as wireless interface modules, trim plates, and temperature sensors. The company has produced some helpful videos on programmable thermostats, including the one below on how to choose the right one for you:

This post has been brought to you by PexSupply.com. Its facts and opinions are those of BobVila.com.

How To: Choose a Programmable Thermostat Home Improvement, Home Remodeling & Home Repair - BobVila.com

Photo: shutterstock.com

Ceiling fans are a wonderful addition to any room, offering a cool breeze and providing a pleasant decorative accent. However, like any appliance, ceiling fans collect dust and grime that can lead to noisy operation and, eventually, motor damage. A proactive approach to cleaning can help you keep your ceiling fan running quietly and smoothly. Here’s how:

Photo: woolshop.com

Cleaning Fan Blades

• The first step is to turn off your ceiling fan, making sure the blades have come to a complete stop. If the blades are still moving when you begin, even a soft duster can do damage.

• Fan blades should be dusted weekly. You can purchase a specialized pole duster that slides over fan blades, simultaneously cleaning both the top and bottom.

• For deeper cleaning, position a step ladder beneath the fan and carefully go over the blades with a water-moistened microfiber cloth or terry towel. Repeat with a dry cloth.

• Use a clean, dry cloth to go over the motor housing and wipe down any pull-chains.

• If you are feeling ambitious, spray the motor housing with compressed air to remove interior dust.

• Avoid bending, breaking, or warping the blades by being careful not to press down too hard.

• Never use abrasive cleaners or toxic chemicals, as these products can scratch or discolor the fan blades and motor housing.

• Do not use alcohol, baby wipes, or alkaline cleansers; these contain harsh compounds that can stain or destroy the finish on the blades.

• Once your blades are clean, use a commercial anti-static, dust-repelling spray to help them stay that way. Spray the product onto a clean microfiber cloth and wipe both sides of each blade. Make your own anti-static spray by mixing one part fabric softener to four parts water in a spray bottle.

Related: How To: Clean EVERYTHING

Photo: shutterstock.com

Cleaning Attached Light Fixtures

• Once again, make sure the fan is turned off. After removing the light bulbs, take off the glass shades by carefully turning the mounting screws counter-clockwise.

• Wash the glass shades in warm, soapy water and dry thoroughly.

• Inspect the rubberized gasket around the base of each shade. If it is worn or torn, either swap in a new gasket or use two or three heavy-duty rubber bands instead.

• Replace the glass shades, being certain that the mounting screws are finger-tight. That way, the glass will not rattle or shake when the fan is operating.

• Replace the light bulbs.

Sit back, relax, and sip a mint julep while your ceiling fan gently circulates the air!

For more on cleaning, consider:

How To: Clean Painted Walls
Top Tips for Cleaning Windows
How To: Clean Stainless Steel

Keep Ceiling Fans Clean to Ensure Smooth Operation Home Improvement, Home Remodeling & Home Repair - BobVila.com

Photo: shutterstock.com

There is nothing like a long, leisurely soak in a luxurious hot bath to soothe away the stresses of the day—that is, unless your dirty tub is one of the things that you’re stressed about!

Bathtubs seem to be magnets for soap scum, mildew, and grime, not to mention stubborn stains. We all know that a dirty or stained tub makes the whole bathroom feel grungy. Luckily, with just a few simple household ingredients and the following helpful hints, you can keep any tub sparkling clean:

• Diligence is the key. After bathing, rinse the tub with clean, warm water and wipe off excess moisture with a squeegee, microfiber cloth, or soft sponge.

• For a deeper clean, pull out the green-cleaning standby, white vinegar. Fill a spray bottle with a half-and-half solution of vinegar and warm water. Spray the tub surface, let stand for 15 minutes, then wipe with a microfiber cloth or sponge. Rinse with clean water and wipe again.

• For heavier dirt or mild stains, sprinkle the tub with baking soda and spray on the vinegar-and-water solution. Let the mixture bubble for several minutes, then scrub with a soft cloth or sponge until a paste forms. Let the paste sit for 15 minutes, then wipe and rinse. If you have hard water stains, dip paper towels in full-strength white vinegar and put the soaked paper towels on the stains. Let stand for one to two hours, then scrub with the baking soda and vinegar paste before rinsing clean.

Related: How To: Clean EVERYTHING

Photo: DIYgreen.com

• To remove tougher stains, make a paste of one part hydrogen peroxide to two parts baking soda (or cream of tartar). Rub the paste on the stain and let stand for 30 minutes to one hour, then wipe and rinse. If necessary, repeat until the stain is gone.

• Rust stains can be treated with a paste of borax powder and lemon juice. Sprinkle the stains with borax and use the cut half of a lemon to rub the stain until a paste forms. Let the paste stand for 15 to 30 minutes, then wipe and rinse.

There are a wide variety of commercial cleansers available to clean bathtubs. Some of the more popular ones include Scrubbing Bubbles, OxiClean, Clorox Clean-Up and Clorex OxiMagic. Commercial stain removers include Lime-A-Way and CLR Cleaner. Read and follow the manufacturer’s directions.

Some additional things to keep in mind:

• Avoid using steel wool or extremely abrasive brushes and scouring powders, as these products will scratch the surface.

• Never mix cleaning products! Certain combinations of chemicals—chlorine bleach and ammonia, for example—can create toxic fumes or burn your skin.

• When using chemicals, always make sure the area is well-ventilated. Protect your skin by wearing rubber gloves.

• Hydrogen peroxide and bleach will discolor fabrics, so be sure to wear old clothes when using any products containing these chemicals.

• Wipe and rinse away cleaning products to make sure that they do not leave any residue in the tub.

Again, taking a proactive approach—rinsing and wiping down the tub after bathing—is the best way to prevent dirt, grime, soap scum and stains from ruining your otherwise relaxing soak.

For more on cleaning, consider:

How To: Clean Grout
The Easiest Way to Clean Shower Doors
7 Surprising Pantry Items Naturally Clean and Freshen Your Home

Helpful Hints for Cleaning Bathtubs Home Improvement, Home Remodeling & Home Repair - BobVila.com

ViegaPEX Press Starter Kit from PexSupply.com

Polyethylene cross-linked tubing, better known as PEX, is a fine addition to the industrious do-it-yourself plumber’s arsenal. Inexpensive to buy and surprisingly versatile, PEX is also relatively easy to install. No complex soldering or messy gluing is required, and the tubing can be easily “fished” through walls and around corners—try that with copper or PVC pipe!

More than 20 different types of PEX are on the market, each suited to a specific plumbing or heating job, so knowing which PEX product to pick for your project is important.

Non-Oxygen Barrier PEX
Most plumbing applications, especially those involving potable water, call for the use of non-oxygen barrier PEX, offered in several grades. PEX-A, which has the most flexible tubing and best freeze- and kink resistance, is ideal for use with kitchen and bath fixtures. PEX-B is slightly less flexible and less freeze-resistant.

Both types of tubing come in three colors—red, white, and blue—in diameters ranging from 1/4-inch to 3 inches. While the tubing is the same regardless of color, it does make it easier to differentiate between hot and cold water lines by choosing red or blue tubing.  For indoor plumbing, the most common PEX tubing is one half-inch, which boasts a higher flow rate than copper pipe of the same size. For outdoor applications, “sleeved” versions of non-oxygen barrier PEX are readily available.

Oxygen Barrier PEX
Since oxygen can cause many heating system components to rust and corrode, baseboard or radiant heating applications require the use of oxygen barrier PEX, offered in grades of PEX-A and PEX-B. The 1/2-inch size is most commonly used; 3/8-, 5/8- and 3/4-inch sizes are also available.

Aluminum Barrier PEX
Also known as PEX-AL-PEX, aluminum barrier PEX is three-layer tubing that consists of a layer of PEX, a layer of aluminum, and another layer of PEX. Its primary benefit is that once bent, PEX-AL-PEX holds its shape and doesn’t need to be tied down every few feet.

The aluminum layer doubles as an oxygen barrier, which in concert with its lower expansion rate, makes PEX-AL-PEX suitable for use in outdoor, warmboard, or high-temperature heating systems.

Fittings and More
Once you’ve determined which type of PEX tubing you need, you will need to choose the fittings. The easiest to use are brass push-fit fittings, which simply “bite” into the tubing. Though they are more expensive, SharkBite fittings require no special tools, making them ideal for smaller jobs and repair projects. Other types of fittings used with PEX are crimp, clamp, press and compression, any of which are less expensive but require specialized tools.

Online retailer PexSupply.com sells a wide variety of PEX Tubing, fittings, and tools. The company has produced a helpful video that provides more information about choosing and using PEX tubing for your next project:

This post has been brought to you by PexSupply.com.  Its facts and opinions are those of BobVila.com.

Which PEX Is Best? The Right Tubing for Any Job Home Improvement, Home Remodeling & Home Repair - BobVila.com

Photo: orderwindowsonline.com

It’s spring, the season for cleaning. Washing windows is at the top of our list. Many commercial window-cleaning products are available, all of which promise to impart a “streak-free shine.” But we have found that a simple solution—one part white vinegar to two parts water—is perfect when mixed up in a spray bottle.

Here are a few tips and techniques to make the job of cleaning windows go a bit faster, and easier:

For cleaning inside windows:

• Fill a bucket or large pot with clean, cool water and add a few drops of liquid dish soap.

• Place a large bath towel beneath the window to catch any spills.

• Use a clean microfiber cloth or sponge to go over the surface of the window, starting at the top and working down to the bottom. Don’t forget to wipe down the frame as well, both inside and out.

• Spray the window thoroughly with the vinegar and water solution, or if you prefer, a commercial window cleaning product (Zep or Windex work well). Another option is mixing one capful of ammonia with two gallons of water.

• Using a clean, lint-free towel (or the black-and-white pages of a newspaper), dry the window completely using a Z-shaped motion. You also can use clean paper towels to dry the windows, if you prefer.

• If dirt or streaks remain, spray and dry again. (Dirty windows typically require two rounds of spraying and drying.)

• It is best to work on a cool, cloudy day so that the soapy water and window-cleaning solution do not dry on your windows.

Related: How To: Clean EVERYTHING

Photo: sparklingcleanwindowcleaning.com

For cleaning outside windows:

• Outside windows typically have more dirt and stains. Start by rinsing the windows with the hose, then fill a bucket with clean, cool water and add a few drops of liquid dish soap.

• Using a soft microfiber cloth, go over the surface of the window. For higher windows, use a sponge mop (or a soft cotton or microfiber mop) on a pole.

• Rinse thoroughly with the hose.

• Spray or mop with the vinegar and water solution or with a commercial cleanser.

• Wipe the window dry using a clean, rubber-bladed squeegee. Angle the squeegee towards the bottom of the window and work from top to bottom. Wipe the squeegee with a clean, dry towel at the bottom of each pass. Alternatively, you can use a clean, lint-free towel or newspaper pages to dry the windows.

• For stubborn dirt and stains, including bird droppings, saturate thoroughly with vinegar and water and let stand for several minutes before drying. You can also try rubbing with a soft “scrubbie” sponge, but do not use steel wool or harsh scrubbing cloths; these will scratch the window.

• Don’t neglect the window screens. Rinse with plain water, spray with a vinegar and water solution, then rinse again with plain water. Let dry thoroughly before replacing the screens on the windows.

Sometimes windows will be stained with mineral deposits, particularly in areas with hard water. There are several commercial cleansers that can be used on these stains, including CLR, which removes calcium, lime, and rust stains. Follow the manufacturer directions when using these products.

Although cleaning windows can be a “pain,” it is worth it to be able to enjoy unobstructed views… and let the sun shine in!

For more on cleaning, consider:

How To: Clean Concrete
How To: Clean Vinyl Siding
How To: Clean Painted Walls

Helpful Hints on Cleaning Windows Home Improvement, Home Remodeling & Home Repair - BobVila.com

Termites cause more than $5 billion in property damage every year, an expense not typically covered under homeowners’ insurance policies, according to The National Pest Management Association. Indeed, damage from termites is five times more likely than damage from fire. To heighten awareness of these pervasive pests, the association designated March 25 to 29 as “Termite Awareness Week.”

Diagram of Common Termite Entry points, from EcoChoice

Termites are active 24 hours a day, seven days a week, silently feeding on the cellulose found in structural wood. “Pest-proofing and home improvement projects are often designated to the spring season,” says Scott Fortson, president of Terminix Service, Inc., a South Carolina-based franchise of pest management firm Terminix International.

“Now is the perfect time of year to remind homeowners to take the necessary steps to protect their greatest investment from costly damage. Because termites aren’t often detected until it’s too late, we advise consumers to arrange for termite protection from a qualified pest professional.”

Subterranean Termites. Photo: backyardbio.dreamhosters.com

The first step in preventing termite infestation is recognizing the problem. Because termites work from the inside out, you may not see a sign of infestation until the damage has been done.

There are numerous species of termites in the U.S. Subterranean termites live underground or in moist, secluded areas aboveground, as many as two million to a colony. Each measuring up to one inch in length, these cream-colored termites travel along distinctive “mud tubes” through foundation cracks and expansion joints, along plumbing and electrical penetrations, behind veneer and anywhere wood meets the ground.

Dampwood Termite. Photo: floridapest.com

Dampwood termites infest wood with high moisture content. Conehead termites, also known as “tree termites,” are an invasive species native to the Caribbean. Drywood termites infest dry wood and do not require contact with the soil.

Termite Baits. Photo: nachi.org

Once a termite infestation is present, professional help is necessary, and treatment is determined by the severity of the problem. The two major methods of elimination are termite baits and liquid termite treatments.

Termite baits are placed around the home and gradually eliminate the population as workers carry the pesticides back to the colony. Liquid treatments are sprayed around the home to kill and repel any termites coming into contact with the chemicals.

Another treatment option is borate. Typically used in new construction, borate is applied directly to the wood of the house as a coating.

Some treatment options work on specific species in specific geographical areas. For instance, fumigation, electrocution, and liquid nitrogen have been effective in controlling drywood termites, common in Southern states. Heating and microwave treatments are used elsewhere.

Because termite damage can go undetected, the NPMA and Terminex also recommend an annual termite inspection by a licensed professional.

Terminex offers the following prevention tips:

• Carefully inspect the perimeter of the home for mud tubes and rotting wood.

• Make sure gutters and downspouts are unclogged and actively divert water away from your home’s foundation.

• Repair fascia, soffits, and rotted roof shingles.

• Keep basements, attics, and crawl spaces well-ventilated and dry.

• Maintain a one-inch gap between soil and wood portions of the home.

• Any wood in direct contact with the soil and your structure is vulnerable to termites. Store firewood at least 20 feet away from the house and before bringing it indoors, check the wood for pests.

For more on pests, consider:

Bob Vila Radio: House Pests
How To: Rodent-Proof Your Home
How To: Protect Your Home from Carpenter Ants

Termites! Now What? Home Improvement, Home Remodeling & Home Repair - BobVila.com

Andersen Contemporary Series Storm Door with True Scene Insect Screen

Installing a storm door may seem like a daunting, time-consuming task, but advances in manufacturing and design have made the process easy enough for the average homeowner to complete start-to-finish in a single afternoon.

The first step in installing a pre-hung storm door is getting the proper measurements. First, use a level to be certain that your door frame is square. If adjustments are necessary, you can use wood shims to improve the fit.

Next, measure the height and width of the frame from the inside of the exterior trim pieces. It is a good idea to measure the width at the top, middle, and bottom of the door. If there is any variation, use the narrowest width measurement.

Related: Enhance Your Entryway with Storm Doors

Diagram: larsondoors.com

Major home improvement chains and hardware stores offer pre-hung storm door kits in the most commonly used door sizes—30-, 32-, 34- and 36-inches. If your door frame is larger, you can either order a custom-sized door or purchase an extender kit to fill the extra space between door and frame.

Such kits are sold with installation and operating hardware, although handles and locksets are often sold separately. The storm door connects to the frame with hinges and has either a hydraulic or pneumatic door closer that pulls the door closed automatically.

A typical storm door installation project will take about four hours. However, industry leader Andersen Windows recently introduced a new system, the 45-Minute Rapid Install Storm Door. 

The doors come pre-hung in the factory with drip caps, sweep, and lock case already in place. A self-squaring clip system is also built in, along with pre-drilled closer bracket holes and a new closer jamb bracket design. The handle set twists and locks securely in place without the use of set screws or tools.

Available at select dealers and The Home Depot, Andersen’s Rapid Install system is available in multiple sizes, eight colors, three hardware finishes and a variety of clear or decorative glass options.

Andersen Contemporary Trim Series Storm Door with Single Vent Full Light

Today’s storm doors are much more stylish than the white, black, or brown styles of days past. A variety of fashionable colors and decorative effects are now offered, benefiting homeowners with personalized choices for enhanced curb appeal.

To learn more about Andersen’s 45-Minute Rapid Install Storm Door, click here for a video overview:

For more on doors and entryways, consider:

30 Inspiring Front Door Designs
10 Simple “Under $60″ Curb Appeal Updates
10 Design Inspirations for Mudrooms and Entryways

Quick and Easy Storm Door Installation Home Improvement, Home Remodeling & Home Repair - BobVila.com

Photo: thehouseofcolor.net

Vinyl siding is a durable, versatile, and resilient building material, but it does require some routine care and cleaning.

The growing popularity of vinyl siding is indisputable. Indeed, U.S. Census Bureau statistics indicate that vinyl siding has been the leading exterior cladding in the U.S. since 1995. Its popularity shows no sign of waning; in 2011, 33% of new single-family homes sold in the U.S. were sided in the material.

Because it is an exterior product, vinyl siding can accumulate a host of dirt, grime, and stains on account of things like pollen, bird and insect droppings, spider webs and rust. In shady, moist areas, mold and mildew can grow, and vinyl is also vulnerable to discoloring effects from insecticides, herbicides, and fertilizers. In addition, vinyl siding’s finish may be marred by a number of commonly used household maintenance products, including caulking, driveway sealant, tar, motor oil and paint.

Slideshow: How To: Clean EVERYTHING

Photo: variform.plygem.com

Luckily, vinyl siding is fairly easy to clean, and there are a wide variety of products to help remove typical stains. According to the Vinyl Siding Institute, the best way is to use a soft cloth or an ordinary long-handled, soft-bristle brush. To prevent streaking, start at the bottom and work up towards the top of the house. Thoroughly rinse any cleaning solution as you go.

Some good cleaning solutions include:

• 70% water, 30% white vinegar makes a great all-purpose cleanser that removes light mold and mildew stains.

• For a stronger solution, mix together one-third cup powdered laundry detergent, two-thirds cup powdered household cleaner, one quart liquid laundry bleach and one gallon of water.

• If you are concerned about landscaping, use a solution comprised of one gallon of water mixed with one cup oxygen bleach in a bucket. The oxygen bleach will clean the vinyl without damaging your landscaping.

• Simple Green offers an environmentally friendly cleaner that is specially formulated for use on vinyl and aluminum siding, stucco, terra cotta roof tiles and painted wood. The non-toxic biodegradable concentrate can be used manually or with pressure washers.

• General household cleansers (e.g., Fantastik, Murphy’s Oil Soap, Windex and Lysol) can be used on tough dirt and stains, including those created by top soil, grass, grease, oil, rust, crayon, ink and bubble gum. Rust stains may be removed using products designed for this purpose (e.g., Super Iron Out and Instant Rust Out).

Photo: enhancescape.com

Another effective way to clean vinyl siding is by using a pressure washer, although some manufacturers advise against it, and other manufacturers recommend a limited amount of pressure.

If using a pressure washer, be sure to keep the stream at eye level and pointed straight at the siding, not at an angle. That way, you won’t drive water in behind the siding. Use caution when using a pressure washer around openings like windows, doors, and plumbing connections.

Avoid using any cleaning products that contain organic solvents, undiluted chlorine bleach, liquid grease remover, nail polish remover, or furniture polish or cleaners. Any of these products might damage the vinyl siding’s surface. Also, avoid using highly-abrasive scrubbers or steel wool; these, too, can cause damage.

With just a little bit of time and effort, vinyl siding can be kept looking “like new” and will provide many years of trouble-free protection for your home.

For more on siding, consider:

Wood Siding Options
Brick Basics: Maintenance, Care, and Cleaning
Everything You Need to Know About Engineered Wood Siding

How To: Clean Vinyl Siding Home Improvement, Home Remodeling & Home Repair - BobVila.com