Photo: jbroofingcompany.com

Re-roofing our 1908 American Foursquare-style house reminded me of a Frank Capra movie. For once, things actually went as planned.

35 years ago, I installed a new roof on a different house, a modest ranch with a low-pitched roof. But at that point, I had the support of two helpers, and the work was hard enough. Now I’m a lot older, and the Foursqure roof is steeper and higher. So doing the job myself was out of the question.

Related: Should You Replace or Repair Your Roof?

In other words, I needed to find a qualified roofing contractor. Impressed by the performance of some roofers I’d observed in my neighborhood—these guys were like a choreographed dance troupe—I searched around on the internet and before long, found the right company.

I called and talked to the owner. He said he’d get back to me with a proposal after sending his foreman over for a look. After making several additional calls, I had two other companies to consider.

Now the challenge was to choose the best one of the bunch. How did I do it? By following three golden rules of hiring contractors:

1. Look for longevity and professionalism
Surfing a contractor’s website, I like to see signs of professionalism, such as Better Business Bureau accreditation, trade magazine rankings, or industry awards. Likewise, elite or master certification from a leading manufacturer demonstrates a commitment to training. If you really want to avoid all surprises, then pay close attention to those companies whose work has been officially recognized by the institutions that matter in the construction field.

2. Get references (and check them)
Go with a well-established company that can support its claims to quality with checkable references. Online testimonials are nice, but they’re not as trustworthy as speaking directly to another human being. Positive reports on a site like Angie’s List should not be ignored; simply remember that not every contractor worth considering has been reviewed online. When possible, go out and visit roofing jobs completed by the companies on your short list.

GAF's Timberline HD Asphalt Shingles in Shakewood

3. All quotes are not created equal
A contractor must see the roof in question before he can submit a bid. Expect each candidate in the running for your business to offer insights on the work involved, including your best options and the estimated time required. Should you meet a contractor who is not willing to explain his estimate in depth, move on to the next candidate.

Here’s how the meeting went with the company that my wife and I ultimately chose to hire: The contractor showed us several samples of the shingle product we were interested in. Then he told us about his company, started by his father-in-law, and about the eight-man crew, which had been together for eight years. And he went through his typed proposal with us, line by line. The proposal included everything from ice-and-water shield to site cleanup and warranty details. I knew he was the right contractor for the job.

A week later, a crew and dumpster showed up at the house. In a few hours, the old roofing had been removed, and new plywood sheathing had gone up. By the end of that first day, in fact, half the installation was complete. Within another 24 hours, the job was completely done. And when I inspected under shrubs in the garden, I did not find a single nail.

As I looked up at the new roof, sunlight danced on the shingles, birds chirped, and the sky filled with music. Frank Capra came to mind, and I thought: It’s a Wonderful Roof!

For more on managing construction, consider:

Bob Vila Radio: Hire a Pro
What Your Contractor Won’t Tell You
Quick Tip: Hiring a General Contractor

In Quest of the Best Roofing Contractor Home Improvement, Home Remodeling & Home Repair - BobVila.com

A slotted shelf is ideal for holding assorted tools. Photo: JProvey

Since my wife and I recently downsized, I am making do with a much smaller basement workshop these days. Whereas I could fit as many as four workbenches into my old basement, I now only have a five-by-eight-foot area, that is just enough room for a worktable and some compact, well-organized workshop storage.

Related: DIY Workbenches: 5 You Can Build in a Weekend

Large stationary power tools may be out of the question, but there is undoubtedly sufficient room for me to fix things and build small projects like wooden toys and picture frames. Because I like being able to see the items I need, the design for my new workshop involves a great deal of shelving on which I plan to store everything from hand tools and portable power tools to drill bits and bottles of glue.

Bore holes in shelving to hold screwdrivers, pencils, punches, etc. Photo: JProvey

Everything is within arm’s reach. A narrow shelf positioned just above worktable height features bored holes of varying diameters that can hold pliers and screwdrivers. While pliers generally need ¾-inch holes, screwdrivers will fit in smaller openings. Figure out the best combination for you, then get to boring!

Related: 5 Basement Workshop Essentials

Plastic tubs (with insert trays for small items) organize job-specific tools and supplies that I don’t use frequently. These stow under my worktable. One tub is for electrical supplies, including spare receptacles, switches, and wire. A larger tub holds paint trays, stir sticks, roller frames, roller covers, brushes and the like. A third is devoted to miscellaneous plumbing supplies: propane torch, igniters, propane canisters, pipe cutters, flux, Teflon tape, solder and so on.

Stash safety equipment in a reusable grocery bag and hang from a hook. Photo: JProvey

The safety sack. Fill a reusable grocery bag with safety glasses, goggles, dust masks, respirator, gloves and earplugs. Hang the bag on a hook to grab and go when a job beckons.

Use bungee-cord hangers for suspended tool storage. Photo: JProvey

Bungee hangers. By stretching bungee hangers between the electrical cables between joists overhead, you can create a quick and handy place to hang lightweight items. This is a great approach to storing clamps or rolls of tape—anything with an opening through which you can string the cord.

A "helper shelf" doubles surface for storing small items. Photo: JProvey

Kitchen and office organizers. Borrow ideas from the kitchen or home office; if a storage method already works for you in another room, it may be equally useful in the workshop, as well. For example, I’m using a wire mesh “helper shelf”, designed for kitchen use, to accommodate nuts and bolts. Meanwhile, I’ve repurposed an old metal file holder as a way to organize sandpaper.

The trick to working successfully in a small workshop is always to keep the area clear of clutter and ready for action. I must admit, I haven’t yet reached that lofty goal, but these ideas have helped me get at least occasional glimpses of my work surface!

For more on workshops, consider:

The Ideal Workshop Layout
Keeping Your Workshop Clean
How To: Stock Your Workshop

Smart Storage for Small Workshops Home Improvement, Home Remodeling & Home Repair - BobVila.com

Photo: greathomepainting.com

Choosing a ceiling fan is enough to make any homeowner’s head hurt. With so many variables and options, what should you consider when choosing a ceiling fan? Here are my suggestions:

Get the Height Right
If  you’re planning the installation for a low-ceilinged room, insist on a flush-mount model (also called a “ceiling hugger”) to ensure adequate head clearance.

For average-height ceilings, using the manufacturer-supplied hanging rod should do the trick. For higher ceilings, an extension rod will lower the fan to optimal position within the room, about eight or nine feet off the floor.

Available in lengths from 12 to 72 inches, extension rods are for sale online and at home centers. To make sure its finish matches that of the fan, source the rod from the same company you buy the fan from.

Related: 10 “Really Cool” Cooling Fans

Photo: tcvillas.com

Size Your Fan to the Room 
Blade spans range from 24 to 80 inches. The American Lighting Association suggests the following guidelines:

Room Size                                              Fan Size

Up to 75 sq. ft.                                      36 inches or smaller

75 to 144 sq. ft.                                     36 to 42 inches

144 to 225 sq. ft.                                   44 to 50 inches

225 to 400 sq. ft.                                  50 to 54 inches

For very large rooms with high ceilings, fans with 60- to 80-inch blade spans are available. Large-sized fans are as much about scale as function in meeting the requirements of a large space.

Place Your Fan Properly
Ceiling fans don’t actually lower room temperatures; they cool by creating a breeze. Install them in places where you spend the most time. Good spots are over the bed or above family-room or kitchen seating.

Honeywell 40015 Combo Wall and Handheld Remote Ceiling Fan Control

Consider Control Options 
Do you want to control the fan from a wall switch, a remote, or a good old-fashioned pull chain? You may not have a choice. Mode of operation depends on the fan that you choose. Tastes vary, but there is certainly something to be said for the convenience of a remote that enables you to change fan speed (or ceiling-fan light fixture settings) effortlessly.

Note: It’s a good idea to keep the ceiling fan on a separate circuit from lighting. If both are on the same circuit, you won’t be able to run your fan when the lights are off (especially important in the bedroom).

Shop Online 
The universe of ceiling fans is amazingly big! Don’t settle for the limited selection to be found in brick-and-mortar stores, especially if you need a fan with small blades or a model suited for cathedral or vaulted ceilings.

My favorite Web site for ceiling fans is Hansen Wholesale. Think of it as a sort of Consumer Reports. For each product it sells, Hansen offers information on motor quality, CFM (air movement measured in cubic feet per minute) output, energy efficiency and other pertinent data.

The ratings graphs show the average rating in each category, so you know immediately how the fan you’re considering stacks up. Hansen also includes an excellent ceiling-fan size calculator.

For more on AC and cooling, consider:

Buying and Installing a Room Air Conditioner
Quick Tip: Alternatives to Air Conditioning
Cool Your House with Smart Landscaping

How To: Choose a Ceiling Fan Home Improvement, Home Remodeling & Home Repair - BobVila.com

Reclaimed Clay Tile Roofing. Photo: performanceroofingcompany.com

Tile roofs come in many styles, and each has its own preferred applications and intrinsic beauty. An exotic sense of romance is associated in particular with clay roof tiles, which commonly appear on Southwest-style and Mediterranean-inspired homes.

In addition to their beauty, tile roofs are extremely durable, lasting for centuries in some cases. Whether made of fired clay or concrete, individual tiles are often molded in a barrel shape, and reinforcing their strength is tile roofing’s interlocking mode of installation.

Related: Debunking 5 Metal Roof Myths

Although most tile roofs are found in warm climates, they can be used in cold regions, too. When installing a clay or concrete tile roof in a cold climate, however, ask for products designed to handle freeze-thaw cycles.

Be sure also to ask a structural engineer if your roof framing will support the weight of a tile roof. While a typical asphalt installation weighs about 230 pounds per square (a 10′ x 10′ area), a tile roof can range anywhere from 580 to nearly 1,100 pounds per square.

Spanish "S" Clay Roof Tiles. Photo: dighomedesign.com

Clay vs. Concrete
Compared to concrete, clay tiles are more colorfast. They are also more durable. An installation of clay roof tiles can be expected to last 100 years. (The average lifespan of concrete roof tiles is about 50 years.) Because they wear so well over time, clay roof tiles add significantly to a home’s resale value.

At $700 to $1,000 per square, clay costs twice as much as concrete. While both score top fire and impact ratings, they are more difficult to install and repair than more common roofing products like asphalt shingles (which usually run $150 to $300 per square).

MonierLifetile from Boral Roofing. Photo: Remodeling Magazine

De-polluting roof tiles
Boral, a clay and concrete roof tile maker, offers a smog-eating tile coating that neutralizes harmful nitrogen oxide, converting it to calcium nitrate, which washes off in the rain. The manufacturer claims that in one year, the average roof can remove a quantity of nitrogen oxide equivalent to that produced by driving a car 10,800 miles!

For more on roofing materials, consider:

Asphalt Shingles 101
Should You Repair or Replace Your Roof?
The Basics: Wood Shingles and Shakes

The Basics: Clay and Concrete Roofing Tiles Home Improvement, Home Remodeling & Home Repair - BobVila.com

Photo: shutterstock.com

It should be easy, right? Just measure the boards, cut the miters, and nail the trim in place. Well, not exactly.

If you’ve ever tried to install baseboard on your own, then you would probably agree that looks can be deceiving. All too often a DIY baseboard installation is compromised by gaps or ill-fitting joints, resulting from walls that aren’t flat, floors that aren’t level, or corners that aren’t square.

Inside corners can be especially tricky to pull off. For a tight fit, use a coped joint. A mitered corner might be ideal for an outside corner, but an inside corner joint will be better formed if you cope the profile of one baseboard to fit snugly against the contours of its mate.

COPING A CORNER JOINT

A coping saw is used to cut baseboard for a corner. Photo: diynetwork.com

1. Make a miter cut on one board, then clamp the piece to a worktable.

2. Using a utility knife, file, or sander, trim the pointed edges left by the miter cut to help prevent slips.

3. Turn the blade of your coping saw 90 degrees to the frame of the saw and back-cut along the lead edge of the miter cut.

4. Finish shaping contoured portions of the cut with a half-round rasp. (Use a flat rasp or file for square edges.)

5. Test the fit by butting a square-cut piece of molding against the coped edge of your baseboard, making any necessary adjustments with your saw or file.

FITTING AN OUTSIDE CORNER

Illustration: oldhouseweb.com

Whereas a coped joint is recommended for inside corners, a mitered joint is appropriate for outside corners. For a clean mitered corner, it’s a good idea to cut your baseboard about 1/16-inch longer than necessary. Doing so ensures a tight fit by enabling you to “spring” the next board into position.

As you install baseboard, or any trim for that matter, expect to do some re-cutting. It’s all part of the game. Be careful to not leave yourself too short, though.

MORE TIPS AND TRICKS

• Prior to installation, use a putty knife or paint scraper to clean excess material from the wall and floor.

• If you are working in a room that will have carpeting, make sure to install baseboard at least 1/2-inch off the floor. That way, the carpet installer will be able to tuck the carpet edges beneath your trim.

• To speed the work (and avoid unsightly hammer marks), buy or rent a finish nail gun in combination with a compressor, or use a cordless finish nailer.

• Standard 3/8-inch baseboard is a lot more flexible than 3/4 or 5/8. Greater flexibility means greater success when trying to fit baseboard snugly against an uneven wall. Construction adhesive helps, too.

• Do everything you can to make the trim fit tightly, but when you can’t, it’s okay to fill small gaps with caulk prior to priming and paint.

For more on trim and molding, consider:

Bob Vila Radio: Ceiling Medallions
Quick Tip: Installing Crown Molding
Hang Time: Making a Case for Picture Rails

How To: Install Baseboard Home Improvement, Home Remodeling & Home Repair - BobVila.com

Photo: peakperformanceroofing.com

There are two types of wood roofing—shingles and shakes. Neither boasts the practicality of a modern roofing material like asphalt shingles, but it’s difficult to deny traditional wood’s aesthetic appeal. In fact, many other roofing products try to simulate look of wood shingles and shakes. Made from cedar, spruce, or treated pine, wood roofing is especially appropriate for older homes and those based upon historical styles.

Related: Debunking 5 Metal Roof Myths

Western Red Cedar Roof Shingles. Photo: calfinder.com

Wood shingles are machine-cut and tapered for a trim, crisp appearance. By contrast, wood shakes look more rustic, as they are hand-split on one side. Each has its own specific installation requirements, but generally speaking, wood roofing is more difficult to install than some other common roof types. Though susceptible to discoloration, wood products last about as long as asphalt (up to 30 years), plus they’re biodegradable and derived from a renewable resource.

Detail of Cedar Shakes. Photo: capstonebros.com

Wood shingles costs between $400 and $700 per square installed, while a shake roof runs between $600 and $900—that’s three or six times the cost of an asphalt roof!

Maintenance is another consideration: Wood shingles and shakes require periodic treatments with preservatives and fungicides in order to keep from drying out, warping, cracking and being attacked by mildew and fungus.

For more on roofing, consider:

Asphalt Shingles 101
The Basics: Composite Roof Shingles
Hurricane-Resistant Roof Tiles (VIDEO)

The Basics: Wood Shingles and Shakes Home Improvement, Home Remodeling & Home Repair - BobVila.com

EcoStar's Midnight Majestic Composition Slate Roofing

Coming up with alternatives for traditional shingle materials has proved a steep and slippery slope for a surprising number of manufacturers. Class-action lawsuits have showered down as so-called “lifetime” roofing products with names like Hardishake, Maxishake, and Permatek have prematurely failed.

Related: Composite Roof Shingles: The Great Pretenders

“The impetus for the development of many of these products was the ban on the use of asbestos fibers,” says Rick Damato, a 38-year industry veteran and editorial director of Roofing Contractor magazine. “Manufacturers substituted other fibers and they just didn’t perform as well.”

EcoStar's Cedar Brown Seneca Composition Shake Roofing

Several companies have successfully developed composite formulations, most notably EcoStar. Unlike its competitors’ products, EcoStar’s slates and shakes boast a 20-year track record. They’re green, too—in fact, if you build with EcoStar roofing materials, it’s possible to score four extra LEED points.

Virtually indistinguishable from real slate and wood, EcoStar’s composites have earned approval for use in historic preservation projects. And their “Class A” fire rating and “Class 4″ impact-resistance position the company at the top of its class for both measures.

CertainTeed's Symphony Composite Slate Roofing

Another manufacturer, CertainTeed, offers a luxury line of composites under the brand name Symphony. Made of polypropylene and calcium carbonate, CertainTeed’s well-regarded product is a ‘dead ringer’ for slate. Arguably, the lightweight and fade-resistant Symphony shingles improve upon the genuine article. Aside from being cheaper to buy and less costly to install, they are backed by a 50-year warranty and boast Energy Star certification.

DaVinci Roofscapes' Bellaforte Tuscana Polymer Composite Shake Roof Tiles

A third company, DaVinci Roofscapes, LLC, offers perhaps the most comprehensive line of composite shake and slate-type products. Polymer-based, with top impact and fire ratings and a strong warranty, Davinci shingles come in multiple widths and colors, enabling homeowners to create blends with realistic textures and shade variations.

Related: Should You Repair or Replace Your Roof?

So what’s the downside to composite shingles? Cost. Any shake or slate-like roofs will run about $400 per square, at least four times as much as asphalt shingles. Moreover, in some regions you may find it difficult to locate a certified installer. “Although composite roofs are not as difficult to install as slate and cedar, the contractor will have to know what he’s doing for them to come out right,” says Damato.

For more on roofing, consider:

Bob Vila Radio: Roofing Options
Installing Manmade Slate Shingles (VIDEO)
How To: Choose a New Roof for Your House

The Basics: Composite Roof Shingles Home Improvement, Home Remodeling & Home Repair - BobVila.com

Acacia Natural Prefinished Floor. Photo: fantastic-floor.com

I’ve looked at flooring from both sides now… and it’s the horrors of applying polyurethane I recall.

Apologies to Joni Mitchell for that, but when it comes to installing solid or engineered wood flooring, prefinished is my choice. Some pros disagree, but these are my reasons:

You can walk on your new floor immediately. With flooring that is finished on-site using oil-based polyurethane, the homeowner must wait days, sometimes even weeks, before moving furniture back into the room. Even though the floor may be dry to the touch, it will be vulnerable to scraping until the waiting time has elapsed and the finish has fully cured. I once had to shuffle around in socks and remain furniture-less for four weeks after applying three coats of poly to a floor. (Waterborne polyurethane finishes dry to touch quickly but can have varying cure times—some quite long.)

No issues with VOCs and your family’s health. For days after applying an oil-based polyurethane, you will smell and breathe in vapors from polyurethane resins and solvents. VOCs have been shown to be carcinogenic, and some waterborne polyurethanes produce them too. Why not buy prefinished so that the curing takes place in a factory, not in your living room?

No worries about dust. Dust and errant hairs are the enemy of on-site floor finishing, but these annoyances won’t have any effect on your new prefinished flooring. You will, however, need to take measures to protect prefinished floors if you have contractors tromping around with tools and equipment en route to other jobs around the house.

Installation in one session. There’s no necessity of staying home to complete the various stages of  an on-site finishing job—sanding, sealing, staining, applying polyurethane and so on. A crew of two had our 300-square-foot solid wood floor installed, with underlayment, in only about two hours.

Prefinished flooring usually has bevels on board edges, but that's a small price to pay for its fast, easy, VOC-free installation and durable finish. Photo: Joe Provey

A better finish than what homeowners or contractors can apply on-site. Factory-applied finishes are incredibly durable and often come with a lifetime warranty. The Mullican red oak flooring, shown above, will stay new-looking for longer. It came with a PPG UV-cured resin and nanoparticle coating that is highly scratch- and abrasion-resistant. I can’t even scratch it with my fingernails.

Lower cost. Prefinished solid wood floors initially cost more than unfinished wood flooring—about $2 per square foot for a good grade of red oak. But once you factor in finishing costs, prefinished ends up being less expensive.

Related: Solid vs. Engineered: Selecting Wood Flooring

Unfinished Ash Select Hardwood Flooring. Photo: qualityfloorsdirect.com

Okay, you’ve heard my arguments. But some homeowners and many contractors disagree with me and prefer site-finishing wood floors. Here’s why:

New construction or large renovations. Many contractors prefer to wait until the end of the job to finish the floor. That way, a dropped tool or a mortar pebble under a work boot can’t mar the finished floor—and ruin customer relations.

Greater choice of finishes. There is no question that the site-finished route opens up a greater variety of choices with respect to color and shade. Prefinished products, however, come in more species and stains than ever before.

No bevels. Prefinished floorboards usually have micro-bevels on all edges. These bevels hide slight discrepancies between board depths and widths. Inevitably, some homeowners will prefer the flush look of site-sanded floors, as they feature no such grooves and can be finished to a mirror-like surface.

What’s your preference? Perhaps the hassles of site-finishing will be worth it to you—for one or all of the reasons above. But for homeowners like me, prefinished floors are the future.

For more on flooring, consider:

Rx for Hardwood Floors
How To: Make Your Own Wood Finish
Old Wood Flooring: Replace or Refinish?

Prefinished vs. Unfinished Wood Flooring Home Improvement, Home Remodeling & Home Repair - BobVila.com

Photo: sansoucystone.com

There’s a lot to recommend a bluestone walkway. The natural colors and textures look great in almost any setting. Maintenance is low. And unlike concrete pavers or brick, bluestone pavers do not require edge constraints.

Another pro: Shifting is rarely a problem. If root growth or a frost heave does shift a bluestone paver, repositioning it is relatively easy. Need to fix a broken water main or run an electric line? No problem. Just pry and temporarily lift the pavers out of the way.

Yet another benefit is that, in contrast to concrete, a bluestone walkway will not prevent water from reaching the roots of prized trees or shrubs.

Related: 12 Easy-to-Imitate Stone Walkways

Perhaps best of all is the fact that installing the stones is not difficult. You do need a strong back and a helper, but otherwise it’s a project in which you can expect professional results even if you’ve never before done masonry.

Before you begin, gather goggles, earplugs, a dust mask, work gloves and knee pads. You’ll also need a contractor’s wheelbarrow, a level, tape measure, spade, shovel, steel garden rake, a rubber mallet, a masonry wet saw and a hand or power tamper.

Step 1: Mark the area
Stake twine along the edges of your planned walkway. Adjust the twine height along one edge, so it’s at grade level. Then excavate the walkway area to a depth of six inches (always check for location of electric lines and irrigation pipes before proceeding). Run a plate compacter over the excavated path if the soil structure is loose.

Cut Bluestone Walkway with Slab Steps. Photo: perenniallandscaping.com

Step 2: Create a foundation
Fill the path area with stone dust and level with a garden rake. (There’s no need to worry about pitching the walk for drainage, as this will happen at the joints). Next, compact the crushed stone to a height about two inches below grade.

Compaction is important to ensure that your stones do not shift. A vibrating plate tamp compactor will speed the job. Because this tool is quite heavy, you’ll need a hand truck or a helper to move it to and from the site.

Make at least three passes over the entire base of stone dust or if you prefer, use a manual tamper. Choosing the latter adds hours to most jobs, but you’ll save the hefty tool-rental fee.

Note: Plate compactors often come with a reservoir for water that allows the tool operator to release a fine stream during operation. If the unit you rent does not have this feature, soak the stone dust thoroughly after compacting it. This will help remove any remaining air pockets. Allow the bed to drain thoroughly before compacting it once again.

Step 3: Laying the stone
Lay the first stone so that its edge aligns with the twine guideline. The first stone is critical; all other stones will be placed in reference to it. If laying stones in a pattern, begin with a full stone. And if you want a full stone at the beginning and end of your walkway, measure to ensure that your plan will allow them to be of equal size. If not, make the necessary cuts in the stones or adjust the spacing in your pattern. Don’t want to bother with the math? Temporarily lay the stones in place to determine if you’ll need to resize the full stones planned for both ends of the path.

Step 4: Cutting stones
Making straight cuts is not difficult. Rent a gasoline-powered masonry saw for this purpose. Don’t forget to hook up the saw to a hose; otherwise, you will raise clouds of stone dust and burn up your diamond-grit blade.

When all stones are laid, sweep stone dust, sand, or small pebbles into the joints. Keep some of the same material on hand to refilling the joints after a week or two, once they have settled.

For more on driveways and walkways, consider:

11 House Numbers to Count On for Curb Appeal
Designing a Driveway with Long-Lasting Appeal
10 Popular Driveway Materials to Welcome You Home

Laying a Walkway with Bluestone Home Improvement, Home Remodeling & Home Repair - BobVila.com

Photo: jacksonelectricinc.com

Under-cabinet lighting can vastly improve the workability and appearance of your kitchen.

For starters, under-cabinet lighting facilitates cooking tasks, such as chopping veggies or reading from a recipe book. Aesthetically, it helps balance the room’s ambient light, eliminating shadows in parts of the kitchen that would otherwise be dark.

An added convenience is that under-cabinet lighting can serve as a nightlight if equipped with a dimmer.

Installation
A plug-in fixture may be used for short runs of under-cabinet lighting, but for an entire kitchen, hardwired fixtures are the best option. For the latter, you’ll need a code-compliant source of electricity that is not already dedicated to the refrigerator or counter appliances. Avoid any circuit at risk of becoming overloaded.

You may be able to run the circuit from a junction box in the basement or an adjacent room, assuming you have the requisite knowledge and experience to work safely with electricity. Don’t know what you’re doing? Hire a licensed electrician to run a new line from the electrical panel.

The new junction box for your under-cabinet lighting can be located behind cabinetry or in a nearby wall. Cables for the fixtures will be run inside the wall; if run through your cabinets, the cables will be metal-clad.

When mounting any fixture under a cabinet, position it to the front. If there is a lens, face it toward the backsplash. The bottom-front rail of the cabinet should hide the fixture from your line of sight, whether you’re standing or seated. If it doesn’t, consider extending the rail with a narrow board or trim piece.

Photo: americanwoodworker.com

Selection
Operating on either low voltage or 120-V, under-cabinet fixtures may be classified by form (spot, bar, strip, tape, etc.) or by light source (incandescent, fluorescent, or LED). Spot and bar fixtures may be incandescent, fluorescent, or LED; strip and tape fixtures use LEDs.

Some things to keep in mind when choosing under-cabinet lighting fixtures:

• Spots, also known as puck lights, create pools of light that if spaced too far apart, may leave some areas in the dark. Bars, assuming you mount them end to end, will provide even light along the counter.

• Because they’re so narrow (less than an inch), LED fixtures are easy to hide. Their impressive length also appeals; while strips and bars are available in three-foot lengths, LED tapes are available in lengths up to 16 feet and can be cut to fit your installation.

• Incandescent under-cabinet lights are typically equipped with either halogen or xenon bulbs. Halogen bulbs are more expensive, emit more heat, and use more energy than other sources, but they produce a nice light and are dimmable. Xenon bulbs give off less heat and are more efficient, plus they last longer.

• Fluorescent under-cabinet lights are cool to the touch and efficient. Newer fluorescents neither hum nor flutter, and the light they produce is warmer than that of earlier incarnations. The bulbs are inexpensive to buy and use very little electricity, and when they burn out, it’s easy to replace them. Many fluorescent fixtures, however, cannot be put on a dimmer switch.

• LED lights last the longest—10 to 20 years or more—although their output fades over time. And when an LED bulb goes out (or breaks), the entire fixture must be replaced.

• If you opt for LED, choose a warm-light fixture, not a harsh, bright white one. Also, bear in mind that the number of lumens produced by LED fixtures tends to vary. Though LEDs have a higher purchase price than either incandescents or fluorescents, the technology’s energy efficiency keeps down long-term costs.

For more on lighting, consider:

Pendant Lighting 101
Bob Vila Radio: Types of Lighting
How To: Save Money and Electricity with Fluorescent Light

How To: Add Under-Cabinet Lighting Home Improvement, Home Remodeling & Home Repair - BobVila.com