We’ve all been there, right? “Oh, I just need to find a stud to hang this picture” and fifteen holes later you’re convinced the wall is held up by pixie dust and a wish, because apparently there’s no wood behind it.
As anyone who knows me will tell you, I will jump at any opportunity to buy a new tool—like I need to hang a picture, I have a bee sting, or it’s Tuesday. Really, it doesn’t take much. But, I have a rule about only buying tools that really work and I happen to think of stud finders the same way I do ghost detectors… exciting for the five seconds that they are beeping and a total let down after that.
Related: Get Hooked: 10 Favorite Wall Storage Ideas
After months of framing the big addition to my current house, I now have a good enough understanding of the structure of a wall to help me find studs whenever I need to.
Things You Should Know About Walls
• Studs exist to hold up drywall on interior walls and wood sheathing on exterior walls. This means you will always find a stud, header, or footer on the top, bottom, or corners of walls.
• Typical stud spacing is 16″ on center and even on older houses is rarely greater than 24″ on center.
• Most electrical boxes for switches or outlets are attached to a stud on one side.
• There are studs on either side of a window.
• Most trim (crown molding, base board, and shoe molding) is nailed on the stud.
• The actual lumber dimensions of 2×4 studs are 1.5″ by 3.5″.
Keeping these points in mind, here are the ways I’ve been most successful at finding studs:
1. Look at the Trim
Since the baseboard is attached to the studs, look to see if you can spot where it might have been nailed. These holes—dimples—are generally filled with caulk and painted, but you may be able to spot one to identify the whereabouts of a stud. If you find one, measure in 16″ increments to locate the additional studs.
Photo: Kit Stansley
2. Use the Switch
If I don’t have any luck checking out the trim I look for switches or outlets, knowing that at least one side of an electrical box will be mounted on a stud. Now, I’m not great at doing the “knock test” on the wall, but I can usually detect from tapping which side of the outlet bears the stud support. I then measure about 3/4″ away from the outlet on the stud side and use that as my starting point to determine the 16″ intervals.
3. Measure from the Corner
With studs generally 16″ on center, you can also do calculations by measuring from a corner of the room. Now, all rooms aren’t built in numbers divisible by 16″ so you are likely to have a stud that is less than 16″ from one corner. Try the “knock test” near the corner to see if you can determine where the shorter stud-spacing might have been added. This only really works if you’re measuring a corner off the exterior of the house, which is why it is my least favorite. But it’s worth a shot before you go crazy with the test holes.
Builder Tip: if you’re in the position of building your own house or have torn the drywall off some walls for a remodel, I strongly suggest taking pictures of the walls before closing everything up. I took interior shots of every wall in my house before the drywall went up and I reference them all the time when looking for studs.
If all else fails, consider . . .
Stanley Tools IntelliSensor Pro Stud Finder
For more on walls, consider:
Drywall 101
Bob Vila Radio: Metal Studs
5 Must-Remember Picture Hanging Tips
How To: Install a Dimmer Switch
Photo: Kit Stansley
I like mood lighting as much as anyone, particularly first thing in the morning when the full blast of light from a 100 watt bulb makes me scream like a vampire at high noon. Could be that I’m just not a morning person. Regardless, I like to be able to adjust the brightness in a room, and installing a dimmer switch is a pretty easy way to get control over your lighting.
GETTING STARTED
Before you go around ripping switches out of the wall, there are a couple of things you should know about wiring and dimmer switches:
- Not all dimmer switches are compatible with Compact Fluorescent Lights. If you have CFL bulbs you will need to go with one of the newer varieties, like those from Lutron.
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How To: Install a Light Fixture
Photo: Kit Stansley
Since my current residence is only half finished, there are a lot of fixture-less light boxes in the ceilings—which means I am tripping over tools in the middle of the night more often than I care to admit.
Electrical DIY projects are not a favorite of mine; probably a result of being shocked as a child by the current from a cut phone line (or perhaps the innate fear of sudden death by electrocution). But for simple electrical work around the house, a little knowledge and the right tools can make the work slightly less intimidating and—more importantly—less shocking.
GETTING STARTED
Here are a couple of things you should know about electricity and residential wiring before you get started.
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How To: Install a Sink Disposal
Photo: Kit Stansley
Depending on what part of the world you’re from you may have heard sink disposals referred to as “garbage disposals,” “food waste disposers,” or, if you’re really proper, a “sink waste disposal unit.” Whatever you call it, switching one out or installing a new one is a fairly simple task.
GETTING STARTED
There are essentially four connection points for a sink disposal:
- Where the disposal connects to the sink, under the drain
- Where the drain line connects to the disposal to remove water/waste
- Where the disposal connects to power
- Optionally, where the dishwasher connects to the disposal
The most important things to know are how the disposal gets power (either through a plug or direct connection) and whether or not you need a dishwasher line connected to the disposal.
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Photo: Kit Stansley
Changing or installing a new faucet is a fairly simple home improvement task, even if it does require contorting your body into a pretzel-like shape under the sink temporarily. If you can avoid needing to be hoisted out from under the cabinet and being put into traction (I recommend stretching first) this type of project should take less than an hour.
GETTING STARTED
All sinks consist of the same basic parts:
- Hot and cold water lines underneath the sink, usually with shut-off knobs located on each
- Drain pipe
- Sink basin (with anywhere from 1-4 holes–important to note when purchasing a new or replacement faucet)
- Faucet
If you have to remove an existing faucet, it’s always a good idea to assess the situation before you start. If the sink and faucet are old or rusted it may take more time and tools to remove it. (I always like to keep a sledgehammer nearby. You know, just in case!)
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How To: Finish Drywall Joints
Photo: Kit Stansley
Most of the time finishing drywall joints isn’t one of those jobs that has people jumping up and down with excitement. Even with a decent amount of drywall experience under my belt, when faced with the 2000 square feet of unfinished drywall in my current house, all I could picture was a lot of sanding in my future. Like, for all of eternity. Luckily I had a great mentor to teach me some of the tricks of the trade, and in no time my joints required very little sanding for a perfectly smooth wall.
GETTING STARTED
Before you can finish drywall joints you need to have actual wallboard in place. You can learn how to install drywall here. The thing to keep in mind is that a sheet of drywall has slightly beveled ends which make finishing joints much easier. When hanging the boards it will be tempting to use small scraps to finish things off, but you’ll be hurting yourself in the long run. Always try to use the factory edges to create your joints.
Now, let’s talk mud.
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How To: Install Door Hardware
Photo: Kit Stansley
As a person who has recently upgraded from living in a garage to living in a half-constructed house, the novelty of having multiple doors to open and close on a whim cannot be overstated. Over the last several weeks, I’ve gotten used to the convenience of hooking a finger through the empty hole to swing the door open and closed. On the plus side, there’s no knob to turn or lever to push, and you can always see when the bathroom is occupied by peering through the open hole. (Listen, when you spend a year living in 400 square feet with another human being and a cat, privacy becomes a moot point.)
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Maybe I’m the only person (at least over the age of three) who gets a kick out of making a mess, but I would still argue that grouting is the best part of a tiling job—and not just because you get to smear mud all over everything. Grouting is when everything starts to come together and your project stops looking like a collection of individual tiles and starts looking like a finished floor (or wall, or counter).
Related: Bathroom Floor Tile: 9 Top Options
GETTING STARTED
If you have an existing tile surface that needs re-grouting, you will need to remove the old grout compound. A grout saw or grout removal bit for a rotary tool like a Dremel are good options. If you’re tiling a new surface, make sure all tiles are fully set before grouting.
There are different types of grout for different applications. Traditionally grout comes in “sanded” and “non-sanded” varieties; the latter being best suited for tile spaces less than 1/8″ wide. For the purposes of this tutorial, we’re talking about the mix-it-yourself sanded grout.
What you will need:
- Two buckets (one for mixing grout, one filled with clean water)
- Grout sponge
- Grout float (specially designed grout-smoothing tool)
- Grout
- Water
- Putty knife, stirring stick, or mixer attachment for drill
INSTALLATION
Step 1. Mixing the Grout
When mixing grout, you’ll want to follow the manufacturer’s instructions, but here are a few additional tips. Pour about 3/4 of the recommended amount of water in the bucket and then add the grout. Once mixed, add the remaining water to achieve the desired consistency, which should look something like this. I find that working in smaller batches and hand mixing is best.
Photo: Kit Stansley
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