Photo: prestigeflower.uk.com

One of the pleasures of spring is taking stock in your garden: Which perennials are ready to be doubled (or even tripled)? To address your spring bloomers, you must wait until fall. But now is the time to divide fall bloomers so that before summer arrives, they will have ample recovery time.

Dividing plants not only benefits your garden, it also gives older perennials a chance to rejuvenate and thrive once again. Doing this chore isn’t necessary every year; depending on the species, every two to five years is sufficient.

Related: 5 Spring Garden Favorites to Plant Right Now

In picking candidates for division, focus on perennial clumps that have been producing fewer flowers, or flowers with hollow, dead centers. Chrysanthemums, asters, cannas, ornamental grasses, coneflowers and astilbe will all appreciate the extra attention.

A few days before you divide them, give your plants extra water, and make sure to prepare the bed, so you can pop the new divisions into the ground right away. If possible, pick an overcast day for the task. Dig around the plant, giving it a four- to six-inch berth. Remove the root ball of the entire clump and separate out sections as gently as possible.

Dividing Perennials with a Knife. Photo: Lowes.com

To separate very tangled roots, greater force might be needed. Pry the roots apart with two garden forks placed back to back. Try to wriggle rather than tear. Use a kitchen knife judiciously to pull apart the toughest clumps. Finally, make sure you get your new divisions into the ground that day, and provide plenty of mulch and water to help them settle into their new location.

Dividing Perennials in the Spring Home Improvement, Home Remodeling & Home Repair - BobVila.com

Photo: motherearthnews.com

To safely and productively operate a chain saw, you must commit to maintaining it. Keep your chain saw in tip-top shape, not only to protect yourself but also to promote the tool’s longevity. Follow these guidelines:

• First things first, read the owner’s manual; it’s the only way to be certain you’re establishing the right maintenance routine. Though most are very similar, some important differences exist between machines. Learn the best practices recommended by the manufacturer of your specific make and model.

Photo: lowes.com

• Problems with chain saws are usually caused by a chain that has become either dull or improperly tensioned. If it seems like your chain saw is laboring, switch to a new chain. (Meanwhile, sharpen the old chain with a chain saw file or a rotary grinder; alternatively, hire a pro.) Before each use of your chain saw, check the tension on the chain. If it’s correctly adjusted, the chain will fit snugly against the bar—but not so tightly that a gloved hand would be unable to move it around.

• The chain should be clean and lubricated. Before each use, make sure the oil reservoir is full. And if wood chips and sawdust accumulate, stop and clean the chain before continuing.

• Before each use, check and tighten all screws, bolts, and nuts. These components have a tendency to loosen on account of the tool’s vibration.

• Inspect the chain brake mechanism for tightness and positioning in order to protect yourself from kickback during operation.

• Clean or replace the air filter whenever it becomes clogged. Likewise, optimal performance depends on the air intake and cooling fins being free of dirt and debris.

• Use the correct blend of oil and gas to power the engine. When fueling, make sure the fuel filler cap fits tightly and is neither cracked nor worn-down.

• Clean or replace the fuel filter and spark plugs regularly, and whenever the engine is running roughly or misfiring, clean and adjust the carburetor.

• If heavily worn, replace the hoses and/or the pull-start rope.

• Remove the clutch cover and clean the chain brake band.

• Check the idle speed and if necessary, make an adjustment. When a chain saw is idling, the chain should not move. If you notice it moving, turn down the idle speed so that the chain remains stationary.

• If you are not going to be using the chain saw for several months, drain all fuel from the tank and exhaust that which remains in the lines or carburetor by running the saw until it stops. Remove the chain and store it in oil within a tightly covered container.

A chain saw is a valuable investment that can withstand years of punishing service. Following a set of simple maintenance steps will ensure that your tool continues to work properly and most importantly, safely.

For more on outdoor tools, consider:

How To: Use a Leaf Blower
Should You Buy a Used Riding Mower?
Mower Maintenance: 5 Ways to Keep Your Machine Up and Running

Regular Maintenance Is Critical to Chain Saw Operation Home Improvement, Home Remodeling & Home Repair - BobVila.com

Photo: popularmechanics.com

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Listen to BOB VILA ON WATERING THE LAWN or read the text below:

One easy way to avoid waste is to make sure you’re not watering the sidewalk or pathways. Check the position of your sprinklers to be certain they’re targeting grass, not pavement. If you have sprinklers on a timer, make sure they don’t operate in the rain!

And don’t water every day. In most climates, a deep, thorough watering twice a week should be enough to keep your lawn happy. More frequent watering ends up wasted, as water simply runs off a lawn that can’t absorb any more moisture. Of course, in dry climates you may need to water more often.

You might also consider having a little less lawn to water in the first place. Giving over some of your lawn space to planting beds filled with drought-tolerant shrubs and ground cover is a smart and ecologically sound way to reduce your water consumption, without sacrificing a beautiful landscape.

Bob Vila Radio is a newly launched daily radio spot carried on more than 75 stations around the country (and growing). You can get your daily dose here, by listening to—or reading—Bob’s 60-second home improvement radio tip of the day.

For more on lawn care, consider:

Top Tips for Watering Your Lawn
How To: Choose a Lawn Mower
5 Common Lawn Care Problems— And How to Fix Them

Bob Vila Radio: Watering the Lawn Home Improvement, Home Remodeling & Home Repair - BobVila.com

Pennsylvania Backyard Fruit Growers Annual Tasting. Photo: veggiegardeningtips.com

Shopping at the grocery store, one can usually find only eight or ten varieties of apples. That selection represents an infinitesimal fraction of the estimated 15,000 varieties that have been grown in North America.

You’ve probably never heard of a Northern Spy, Sheepnose, or Virginia Beauty apple. At one time, these and many more types of apples were cultivated and enjoyed in their respective regions. But they gradually lost ground to more productive, visually appealing varieties that better withstood transport and storage.

Today, these so-called “heirloom” apples are staging a comeback, and our taste buds are reaping the benefits. Many heirlooms have rich, sweet, and complex flavors unmatched by varieties more commonly found.

Related: 8 Disease-Resistant Apple Tree Varieties

The Virginia Beauty is an heirloom apple in which I have a special interest. It was grown (among other places) on the banks of Virginia’s New River, where my great-grandmother lived on a property with an orchard.

My cousin actually grafted several new Virginia Beauty trees from that orchard, and she was kind enough to give one to me recently. I was equally thrilled and terrified by her gift. How exciting: a living piece of my family history! But oh, no, I’ve never grown an apple tree before!

My Family Heirloom Virginia Beauty Apple Tree

So I’ve been doing my research. Like all fruit trees, heirloom apple trees require soil enrichment, pest control, disease management, regular thinning and annual pruning—all subjects about which you can read volumes.

Most important in growing heirloom apples are researching and planning. Get your homework done before you make any purchases. For now, consider these factors:

1. Taste. The variety in taste and texture of heirloom apples is overwhelming. Some are delicious to eat out of hand; others are perfect for baking and cider. Many orchards offer tastings during the harvest season: Visit and you may encounter flavors you never imagined in an apple. Who knows? You could even be inspired to grow something you’ve never even heard or read about.

2. Climate. Fruit trees require a certain number of annual chill hours—hours when the temperature is between 32 and 45 degrees Fahrenheit. Each variety has a different requirement. Find out your geographic area’s chill hour averages, so you can choose the most suitable varieties for your yard.

3. Bloom Time and Pollination. Most apple varieties produce their best crops when there’s a different variety planted close by for pollination. To facilitate pollination, plant varieties that will either bloom at the same time or whose blooming will at least overlap.

4. Harvest. Every variety has a ripeness date. If you plan carefully, you can pick ripe fruit from trees all summer and fall.

About a month ago, I planted my little Virginia Beauty in a bed outside our bedroom window, and it is already flourishing. With luck (and the proper care), we’ll be harvesting apples in as few as three years—the same apples my mother picked off the trees and ate at her grandmother’s house.

It will be hard to wait. But I feel sure it’ll be worth it.

For more on gardening, consider:

How To: Plant an Apple Tree
10 New Perennials to Perk Up Your Garden
Flowering Climbers: 8 Cures for the Common Garden

Heirloom Apples: Growing a Slice of History Home Improvement, Home Remodeling & Home Repair - BobVila.com

Photo: hallsgarden.com

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Listen to BOB VILA ON PRUNING AZALEAS or read the text below:

Pruning while an azalea is in bloom gives you beautiful cuttings to bring inside, and prepares your plant for a better bloom next year.

To start, take a critical look at the azalea and identify dead or woody branches, branches that don’t get enough sun, and branches that stick out at odd angles from the main plant. Those should come off right away. Then trim branches to create a pleasing shape. Cutting long branches back to the base will force new growth next year from the bottom, ensuring that your plant continues to develop a lush, full shape.

Be sure your pruner is clean and sharp to avoid jagged cuts. And if you miss the spring pruning season, don’t be tempted to cut back the plant later in the summer. Cutting an azalea too late in the year makes it vulnerable to damage over the winter.

Bob Vila Radio is a newly launched daily radio spot carried on more than 75 stations around the country (and growing). You can get your daily dose here, by listening to—or reading—Bob’s 60-second home improvement radio tip of the day.

For more on gardening, consider:

Bob Vila Radio: Cleaning Plant Containers
Fresh Flowers: 10 New Annuals for 2013
We Heart Azaleas: Top Tips on Care

Bob Vila Radio: Pruning Azaleas Home Improvement, Home Remodeling & Home Repair - BobVila.com

Photo: shutterstock.com

With the sun shining, the birds chirping, the temperatures rising, and the days getting longer, this is the season to take stock of your landscape. Will you plant something new? Or will you decide to transplant a tree, shrub, or perennial that already exists in your garden?

The latter may seem daunting, but following a series of simple steps can help you ensure that your transplanted selection not only survives the spring, but thrives for many seasons to come.

Here are ten trusty transplanting tips from the garden tool experts at True Temper:

Enter Bob Vila’s Great Big Garden Give-Away with True Temper, and you could be the next winner of a garden tools set worth $250, plus $250 CASH!

1. Pick a spot! Choose your new location with care, taking into account the plant’s sun, soil, and space needs.

2. Use the right tools. The size of your plant will determine whether you should use a round-point shovel or a hand tool, such as the True Temper Ergo Gel Grip Hand Transplanter.

Photo: shutterstock.com

3. Prep the existing plant. Dig around the plant you’d like to transplant; keep a wide berth so as not to disturb the main root system.

4. Going under. After digging around the plant, you’ll be able to loosen the soil enough to dig underneath.

5. Say goodbye! Remove the plant, with the roots; place it on a tarp. Replant as soon as possible to encourage the plant’s survival. In the interim, wrap the roots with damp burlap to prevent moisture loss.

6. Ready the new home. Dig a new hole that is twice as wide as, but equal in depth to, the root system.

7. Moving in! When placing the plant into this new hole, make sure that it sits level to the ground.

8. Finishing touches. Infill with soil from the original location of the plant. Water as you add soil, coaxing it deep into the hole.

9. Wrap it up. Add mulch on all sides of the newly transplanted plant, but do not cover the few inches immediately surrounding its base.

10. A little TLC. Your plant will be a little sensitive in its new home, so water it often, especially right after it has been moved.

And voila! A new home for your favorite flora. Now that wasn’t so bad, was it?

For more gardening advice, visit True Temper on Facebook for daily tips and tricks.

And don’t forget: ENTER NOW to win in Bob Vila’s Great Big Garden Give-Away from True Temper!

For more on gardening, consider:

10 Fresh New Annuals for 2013
5 Common Lawn Care Problems—and How to Fix Them
Add a Little Spice to Your Life with a Culinary Herb Garden

How To: Transplant Trees, Shrubs, and Perennials Home Improvement, Home Remodeling & Home Repair - BobVila.com

A sod cutting machine, rentable by the day, makes quick work of transplanting. Photo: Flickr / jcelene

It’s been about 18 months since we moved into our house, but only recently have we begun to landscape beyond the basic builder’s package. A designer helped us formulate a plan that we intend to roll out in stages over the next several years. This spring, we initiated phase one: creating more strategically placed planting beds. That meant removing sod—a LOT of sod.

Sod is expensive to install and, surprisingly, expensive to remove. Even if you rent a sod cutting machine, the work is still labor-intensive and time-consuming. Not to mention that once you have the sod lifted, it must be hauled away and dumped somewhere—at a price, of course.

Related: Artificial Turf: 7 Reasons to Consider the New “Grass” Alternative

Our landscape designer suggested that we see if anyone nearby might want to re-use our sod. So I put the word out on our neighborhood Facebook page. Within 30 minutes, I had a taker: neighbors Pam and Ray, who had less than satisfactory success seeding their lawn upon moving into a home just blocks away.

I was beyond delighted. For one, the time and money we saved in not having to haul and dump the sod could instead go to cutting more planting beds. More than that, I absolutely hate to waste anything and was thrilled that someone could use the perfectly good grass.

Pam and Ray were ecstatic, too, when they saw an enormous pile of sod rolled up at the edge of our yard. It took several trips in Ray’s pickup truck, but our “old” sod is now enjoying a “new” home.

Our neighbor, Ray, prepped the area by roto-tilling and putting down lime. Photo: Flickr / jcelene

While this was a somewhat unconventional application—laying sod over existing grass—the method used by Pam and Ray ultimately worked for them. Here’s their advice:

1. Rough up the current ground cover. The roots from the sod need to make contact with dirt, so use a rototiller or similar tool to expose the soil beneath.

2. Add some lime. Lime promotes lawn health by providing nutrients and improving soil structure. Because lime is absorbed slowly, add it prior to the sod.

3. Fill in the gaps. After fitting the sod pieces closely together, cutting and trimming as needed, fill in the joints with a mixture of soil and grass seed.

4. Compact and water. Compact the sod using a roller—or by driving over the installation with a pickup truck! Water for 20 minutes in the early morning (before the sun gets too high) and 20 minutes in the evening (after the sun has set).

A month later, the sod we would have sent to some refuse center is living on and looking great.  Both we and our neighbors couldn’t be happier about that.

For more on lawns, consider:

Top 5 Tips for a Greener Lawn
Bob Vila Radio: Lawn Care Hell
Keep Off the Grass: 5 Traditional Lawn Alternatives

A Second Home for Sod: Top Tips for Transplanting Home Improvement, Home Remodeling & Home Repair - BobVila.com

Photo: Flickr / Simply Bike

People have been harvesting rainwater for thousands of years. In the last decade, the practice has emerged as a popular way to cut costs and help the environment. A variety of kits exists on the market, but if you have the luxury of a free afternoon, it’s easy to devise your own setup. You only need five ingredients, the bulk of which you probably own already. Follow the recipe below:

Ingredient #1: Roofing
First things first, you need a roof—any roof, in just about any size or shape. The pitch of your roof will partially determine the amount of rain available for collection. Two other important determining factors are the climate and average annual rainfall in the region where you live.

Slideshow: 12 Rain Barrels That Perform with Style

Photo: Flickr / slinz0

Ingredient #2: Gutters
Normally the downspouts of gutters empty onto the ground a few feet away from the foundation. A typical rainwater harvesting system links gutter discharge to a collection area. Because gutters are prone to collecting debris, plan to keep them clear with regular maintenance or by installing gutter guards.

Photo: shutterstock.com

Ingredient #3: Collection Area
If you intend to harvest rainwater for use in the garden, be prepared to purchase or make a rain barrel. Position the barrel on level ground, and as it fills up with water, remember that the barrel will become harder to move. As the season progresses, it may be necessary to adjust the connection between your downspout and barrel. Caution: Limit the top opening of your rain barrel to a narrow diameter so that neither thirsty animals nor curious children are at risk of falling in.

Alternatively, skip the rain barrel altogether and angle your downspouts towards those sections of the landscape in need of water. The velocity of water exiting the downspouts may create furrows in the earth; adjust their placement accordingly.

Ingredient #4: Distribution System
Don’t let the term “distribution system” intimidate you; it’s as simple as a garden hose or watering can. The ideal approach depends on the design of your rain barrel.

Ingredient #5: Filtering System (Optional)
Want to drink the rainwater that you’re collecting? Consider either floating filters or a sand filtration system. Homeowners harvesting water for personal use are advised to review relevant state regulations.

Great Expectations
There’s little need to worry about gathering too little rain to justify the effort. According to Water Wise at the University of Arizona, one inch of rain on a 1,000-square-foot roof results in up to 600 harvested gallons!

Further Resources
Rainwater harvesting may qualify you for a tax incentive. Visit these sites for more information on financial incentives and making the most of your collection system:

1. Rainwater Harvesting at North Carolina State University
2. The Texas Manual on Rainwater Harvesting
3. Urban Waterways/Rainwater Harvesting: Guidance for Homeowners

For more on outdoor structures, consider:

Compost Bins: 10 Smart Options
Wing It: 11 Approaches to a DIY Birdbath
Chick Magnets: 10 Irresistible DIY Chicken Coops

5 Simple Ingredients for Successful Rainwater Harvesting Home Improvement, Home Remodeling & Home Repair - BobVila.com

Photo: houseplantsguru.com

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Listen to BOB VILA ON WINDOW BOXES or read the text below:

First, the box should be about the same width as your window. Make sure it has drainage holes, and consider using a metal or plastic liner inside. That extends your box’s life and makes it easier to swap in a seasonal replacement.

Next, select plants appropriate for the amount of sun your window boxes will get. Aim for a mix of textures and heights and an overall symmetrical layout. Start with a tall central focus, like spiky dracaena or shoots of salvia; fill in with medium-height stunners like coleus or pansies; and finish with dramatic spillovers like ivy or trailing petunias. Play with arrangements of your plants at the garden store before you buy to be sure they work together.

Don’t use plants so tall that they’ll block your view, and don’t go plant crazy. For maximum impact, use just a few varieties in colors that suit your exterior. Then water frequently, and don’t forget to feed and deadhead, so those flowers flourish all summer long.

Bob Vila Radio is a newly launched daily radio spot carried on more than 75 stations around the country (and growing). You can get your daily dose here, by listening to—or reading—Bob’s 60-second home improvement radio tip of the day.

For more on gardening, consider:

How To: Make a Window Box
10 Simple “Under $60″ Curb Appeal Updates for Any Home
Give Your Facade a Facelift: Simple, Affordable Ways to Boost Curb Appeal

Bob Vila Radio: Window Boxes Home Improvement, Home Remodeling & Home Repair - BobVila.com

Photo: backyardswimmingpools.net

Ah, pools. Whether humble aboveground 15-footers or elaborately designed in-ground beauties, swimming pools are refreshing oases in backyards everywhere. They can be exercise-inducers, playgrounds, or simply soothing surfaces on which you can float and soak up vitamin D.

Pools are even nice just to look at—except when they’re not. Perhaps more than any other landscaping feature, a neglected pool radiates an air of sadness. If yours has gotten rundown, you probably want to avoid it rather than dive right in.

Related: 10 “Dream Worthy” Swimming Pools

Fortunately, it’s possible to rejuvenate a pool. A new lining might be the simple solution for an aboveground pool that’s lost its luster. If you want to perk up a tired fiberglass or concrete in-ground pool, consider resurfacing.

Fiberglass
Thanks to its flexibility and resistance to shifts in the ground, fiberglass is a popular choice for resurfacing. To begin, your contractor will make things as smooth as possible by filling in, reinforcing, and sanding any cracks or chips.

After that begins a multi-layer application process. Resin and fiberglass coats are applied and then sanded. Finally, up to three top coats—available in a variety of colors and textures—seal the job.

What are the advantages? For starters, fiberglass lasts longer than concrete or plaster. Also, fiberglass is smoother, so it absorbs fewer chemicals and less organic material. Fiberglass resists algae stains, too. When correctly done, you are left with a good-looking pool likely to last a good long time.

Plaster
If you want to resurface a concrete pool, your most economical choice is plaster. Certain products, such as Sider-Proof, actually make resurfacing in plaster easy enough for a do-it-yourselfer to tackle.

An experienced professional will either chip or sandblast the old plaster out, leaving the original concrete shell. Next, a bond coat is applied that is topped with one or two coats of new plaster tinted to your choice of color.

PebbleTec and PebbleSheen Pool Surfacing. Photo: tristatepoolrenovations.com

Unlike fiberglass, plaster will react with pool water over the course of its lifetime, so more chemicals may be necessary to maintain proper water chemistry. To counteract this issue, add a “filler” to your plaster mix.

Quartz and pebbles are common additives. Quartz is more stain-resistant than plaster; when the two are mixed together, you get an improved, durable surface that adds true sparkle to your pool water. QuartzScapes by NPT and DiamondBrite by SGM are popular quartz-plaster blends.

Pebble-plaster aggregates like Pebble Tec or Pebble Sheen are some of the most expensive options in this category, but they create a striking look as well as a smooth, river rock-like texture underfoot. Additionally, pebble blends are the most chemical- and stain-resistant of all plaster techniques.

Other Options
If your fiberglass or concrete pool is in decent shape, consider painting instead of resurfacing it. Water-blast the old paint off, then spray on a new coat of epoxy paint, such as Nu-Pool), which should last seven to 10 years. Rubber-based or acrylic paint may also be used, but neither is as durable as epoxy paint.

Still another option for bringing your pool back to life is retiling. Here, it’s the same as indoors: A scratch coat is applied, tiles are laid, and grout is put in between. Depending on the size of your pool, of course, tiling can be an extremely expensive and time-consuming process. But it will give you an elegant result.

For more on water features, consider:

12 Celebrity Pools to Envy
Swimming Pools: Pump Woes
Water, Water Everywhere: Installing a Small Backyard Pond

Perk Up Your Pool: Resurfacing in Fiberglass or Plaster Home Improvement, Home Remodeling & Home Repair - BobVila.com