Photo: CGardner

When you first start tackling home projects, it’s no problem to hit the hardware store for one of those sandpaper multipacks. But the more you get into building and repair—or any work involving wood or metal—the more sandpaper becomes an item that you’ll want to keep readily accessible and in plentiful supply.

If that sounds like a hassle or an expensive proposition, don’t worry; it’s neither. Buying sandpaper in bulk actually saves money in the long run. At my local home improvement center, a pack of five 100-grit 5″ sanding disks costs $8, while a pack of 50 costs only $18.99. You do the math!

Of course, if you’re stocking up on sandpaper, you need a place to store it in an organized way. Here are some inexpensive solutions that have worked for me and other DIYers:

Storing Sheets of Sandpaper

Photo: CGardner

I think the key to storing sandpaper is remembering that it’s paper. Basically, the goal should be to keep sandpaper sheets flat, crease free, and well organized.

In my own shop, I store sandpaper sheets in hanging file folders, different folders for different grits. It’s a perfect solution in my case, since the worktable housing my router and miter saw is built from two large filing cabinets, which I salvaged from a junior high school.

Filing cabinets may not work for everybody, but I love them. My benchtop drill press sits on one with casters, and I also have one dedicated to magazines, paper plans, and so on. Used filing cabinets are inexpensive and commonly available at thrift stores and on Craigslist.

An alternative idea: Use a hanging file box from the office supply store; add wheels to it, if you want. Other easy, customizable solutions include vertical file boxes or magazine holders with cardboard dividers.

Photo: hertzfurniture.com

If the office supply store doesn’t have what you’re looking for, try the places where scrapbookers shop. After all, these people are masters of organizing all kinds of paper. Follow their lead and seek out options like cube shelving or flexible poly envelopes. Artists, too, know their way around paper, so check out vendors of art supplies, whether in person or online.

Storing Sanding Disks and Belts

Photo: CGardner

Sandpaper doesn’t always come in sheets. It just as often appears in specialized cuts to fit powered sanders. When purchasing sandpaper of this type, don’t throw away the packaging in which it is sold. There’s no need to reinvent the wheel. Specifically designed to store sandpaper, these molded plastic containers work well for the task. Label each one clearly, and if there have holes punched in their plastic (for retail display), hang them up on a pegboard.

Photo: Wood Magazine

Prefer to make your own? The diagram above, from Wood magazine, illustrates how you can build dedicated storage for sandpaper disks. Here, simple dowels protrude through the large holes in five- or eight-hole disks. Note that this only works with specific disks; it would not fit the pattern of holes in the sandpaper shown in the photo I’ve included.

A parting note on sanding belts: Due to their shape, they can be hung on anything you please. Just make sure to keep the belts loose and non-compressed. That way, you won’t crease the paper and create a sharp edge that could cut the wood while the belt spins.

What are your favorite solutions for sandpaper storage? Post your ideas in the comments below.

For more on workshop storage, consider:

Tool Storage
How To: Keep Your Tools Accessible
Smart Storage for Small Workshops

Inexpensive Ideas and DIY Tips for Storing Sandpaper Home Improvement, Home Remodeling & Home Repair - BobVila.com

Photo: homeadditionplus.com

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Listen to BOB VILA ON NAIL SETS or read the text below:

A nail set is a small tool that looks a bit like a nail, but thicker, with a rounded point on one side and a flat end at the other. You can use it to tap a nail in that last quarter inch without whacking the finished surface with your hammer. Finish nails usually have little depression in their heads that allows you to position a nail set without having it slip out as you tap.

You can also use a nail set on woodworking projects that will be painted or stained. Use it to push a nail below the surface, then fill in the gap with wood filler.

Finally, you can use a nail set to fix a pesky nail pop, when an old nail rises from a stair tread or starts sticking out of woodwork. The nail set lets you fix the pop without leaving a hammer-shaped dent in the wood.

Bob Vila Radio is a newly launched daily radio spot carried on more than 75 stations around the country (and growing). You can get your daily dose here, by listening to—or reading—Bob’s 60-second home improvement radio tip of the day.

For more on tools, consider:

Nail Guide
Tool Tip: Nail Guns
7 Essential Measuring Tools for Any Job

Bob Vila Radio: Nail Sets Home Improvement, Home Remodeling & Home Repair - BobVila.com

A slotted shelf is ideal for holding assorted tools. Photo: JProvey

Since my wife and I recently downsized, I am making do with a much smaller basement workshop these days. Whereas I could fit as many as four workbenches into my old basement, I now only have a five-by-eight-foot area, that is just enough room for a worktable and some compact, well-organized workshop storage.

Related: DIY Workbenches: 5 You Can Build in a Weekend

Large stationary power tools may be out of the question, but there is undoubtedly sufficient room for me to fix things and build small projects like wooden toys and picture frames. Because I like being able to see the items I need, the design for my new workshop involves a great deal of shelving on which I plan to store everything from hand tools and portable power tools to drill bits and bottles of glue.

Bore holes in shelving to hold screwdrivers, pencils, punches, etc. Photo: JProvey

Everything is within arm’s reach. A narrow shelf positioned just above worktable height features bored holes of varying diameters that can hold pliers and screwdrivers. While pliers generally need ¾-inch holes, screwdrivers will fit in smaller openings. Figure out the best combination for you, then get to boring!

Related: 5 Basement Workshop Essentials

Plastic tubs (with insert trays for small items) organize job-specific tools and supplies that I don’t use frequently. These stow under my worktable. One tub is for electrical supplies, including spare receptacles, switches, and wire. A larger tub holds paint trays, stir sticks, roller frames, roller covers, brushes and the like. A third is devoted to miscellaneous plumbing supplies: propane torch, igniters, propane canisters, pipe cutters, flux, Teflon tape, solder and so on.

Stash safety equipment in a reusable grocery bag and hang from a hook. Photo: JProvey

The safety sack. Fill a reusable grocery bag with safety glasses, goggles, dust masks, respirator, gloves and earplugs. Hang the bag on a hook to grab and go when a job beckons.

Use bungee-cord hangers for suspended tool storage. Photo: JProvey

Bungee hangers. By stretching bungee hangers between the electrical cables between joists overhead, you can create a quick and handy place to hang lightweight items. This is a great approach to storing clamps or rolls of tape—anything with an opening through which you can string the cord.

A "helper shelf" doubles surface for storing small items. Photo: JProvey

Kitchen and office organizers. Borrow ideas from the kitchen or home office; if a storage method already works for you in another room, it may be equally useful in the workshop, as well. For example, I’m using a wire mesh “helper shelf”, designed for kitchen use, to accommodate nuts and bolts. Meanwhile, I’ve repurposed an old metal file holder as a way to organize sandpaper.

The trick to working successfully in a small workshop is always to keep the area clear of clutter and ready for action. I must admit, I haven’t yet reached that lofty goal, but these ideas have helped me get at least occasional glimpses of my work surface!

For more on workshops, consider:

The Ideal Workshop Layout
Keeping Your Workshop Clean
How To: Stock Your Workshop

Smart Storage for Small Workshops Home Improvement, Home Remodeling & Home Repair - BobVila.com

Photo: apartmenttherapy.com

If your file folders are bursting at the seams with to-do lists, contractor quotes, spec sheets and inspirational clippings from interior design magazines, it may be time to think about organizing your project with a renovation app on your mobile phone or tablet.

Remodeling work can be overwhelming at times, whether you’re tackling the entire house or one room only. Save time and money—and minimize your stress level—with a suite of well-chosen apps. Here are five of our favorites for compiling and managing all the information you need to make the most of your effort.

 
1. EVERNOTE

iTunes

Though not marketed expressly for remodelers, Evernote excels as a tool for collecting and collating notes, images, web addresses, video clips—you name it, you can save it. Just as important, you can easily find your stored data when you need it again in the future. While the free version is plenty powerful, consider opting for the paid version if you want to upload large files, work offline, or invite others to edit your plans.

For both iOS and Android (free/$5 a month for Premium)

2. HANDYMAN CALCULATOR

Google Play

A five-star renovation app available for Android devices, the Handyman Calculator offers a wide variety of customizable calculators to help you determine the quantity of materials required for whatever job you’re planning. In addition, you can use the app to create shopping lists and based on your input, measurements are converted from metric to imperial.

For Android (free/$4.99 for Pro)

3. COLOR CAPTURE

iTunes

Struggling to find a paint color resembling that of your favorite flower? Snap an image with your smartphone and run it through Color Capture, Benjamin Moore’s free paint-matching app. Available for both iPhone and Android, this tool gives users the power to identify which of Benjamin Moore’s 3,300 paints most closely corresponds to any one color in your supplied image.

For both iOS and Android (free)

4. D-PHOTO MEASURES

Photo: play.google.com

Looking for a fast and easy way to save and share things like room dimensions, door and window sizes, or cabinet lengths? Forget your notepad and pencil! Instead, use an app like D-Photo Measures for Android, which lets you mark up photos on your phone with measurements and notes. (It also calculates angles based on measurements). For iOS devices, an analogous app is Photo Measures.

For Android (free/$2.99 for Pro)

5. MARK ON CALL

iTunes

The Mark on Call iPhone and iPad app enables you to map out the floor plans of rooms based on their real-life dimensions. Further, you can enrich those layouts you create with such fine details as furniture, window and door placement, and flooring types. Doing so gives you the “big picture”—indeed, it’s a great way to compile all the information you’ve gathered in other apps into a single vision.

For iOS ($4.99)

For more on digital tools, consider:

Productivity Tools for Smartphone
Top 3 Apps to Help You Plan a Remodel
App Review: Houzz Interior Design Ideas

The 5 Apps You Won’t Want to Renovate Without Home Improvement, Home Remodeling & Home Repair - BobVila.com

Photo: Chris Gardner

Sanding is the unsung hero of any project with wood. It can take a long time, and the results are subtle: Sanding does not transform your workpiece in the way that cutting it to size does. Nor does sanding deliver the “wow factor” of a rich stain. But make no mistake, it is the key step to be taken when turning raw wood into an investment piece, one that adds value to your home or lifestyle.

What Is Sanding? Though sanding makes wood feel smoother, it’s really the process of abrading wood fibers so that they are rendered uniformly rough. We call it “sanding”—and the tools employed are sandpaper and sanders—but no sand whatsoever is involved. Rather, the abrasive performs as a cutting tool (not unlike a saw blade), which can be used to cut, shape, and finish raw wood either to completion or to the point where the material readily accepts a finish.

Sanding by Hand. Hand-sanding gives you the most control over shaping the wood surface. You can address corners and recesses that a machine would not be able to reach. Yes, I use powered sanders on nearly every woodworking or finishing project I complete, but I always do some sanding by hand.

Related: 5 Easy Woodworking Projects for Beginners

Photo: Chris Gardner

For flat surfaces and sharp edges, use a sanding block; buy one at the hardware store or cut your own from scrap wood. The sanding block enables you to apply even pressure, and it prevents your sandpaper from bunching up or slipping. If you’re sanding molding or trim with an intricate silhouette, opt for a specialty rubber or foam profile sander in order to pull off a sharp, professional look.

Photo: Chris Gardner

When sanding curves or forming a rounded edge, forgo the sanding block and use the softness of your hands to create a satisfying arc shape.

No matter what type of edge you’re going for, always maintain steady pressure and sand with, not against, the grain. Don’t employ sandpaper to remove things like pencil marks or dried glue, but do use it to smooth joints or filled nail holes.

Photo: Chris Gardner

Sanding with Power Tools. It’s  not strictly necessary for any job, but a powered sander can sure save you a lot of time and sweat. I highly recommend the random-orbit sander, if you don’t already own one. The perfect tool for so many tasks, it smoothes wood quickly and evenly, and it does so without leaving surface marks. Sanding disks of varying grits may be affixed, and especially when the tool is connected to a shop vac, sawdust is not an issue.

Photo: Chris Gardner

Sanding for Finishing. Sanding helps not only prior to finishing, but also during finishing. If you plan to stain or clear-coat your workpiece, first sand with 220-grit paper, then wipe down the surface with a wet rag or sponge. This raises the grain, making the wood more receptive to stain. Applying an oil finish? Sand the surface to 220, then apply Danish or teak oil (with the grain) using 320-grit paper. Continue until you get a light “slurry” of sawdust and oil.

Last but not least: If you intend to paint your workpiece, then sanding will be essential to your success. It “roughs up” the surface, giving the paint something to stick to. Plus, sanding between coats of paint smoothes out any bumps or raised areas that are produced, so you are left with a super smooth, factory-like finish.

For more on woodworking, consider:

How To: Make a Mortise-and-Tenon Joint
10 Ways to Use Your Cordless Drill/Driver
Bit of Knowledge: Choosing the Right Drill Bit for the Job

How To: Sand Wood Home Improvement, Home Remodeling & Home Repair - BobVila.com

Photo: artofmanliness.com

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Listen to BOB VILA ON WRENCHES or read the text below:

Wrench types include open-end, box-end, and combination. Open-end wrenches, with their U-shape, slide easily onto a nut or bolt. Box-end wrenches have closed ends with 6, 8, 12 or 16 points inside the head. Because the box end completely surrounds the fastener, it offers a firm grip. Combination wrenches have one open end and one closed end.

An adjustable wrench is an open-ended wrench with one fixed and one adjustable jaw. It gets points for flexibility, but it usually lacks the gripping strengh of a fixed wrench. And its bulky head isn’t ideal for tight spaces.

Wrenches are sized in inches or metric. If you can afford only one set and do mostly household repairs, go with inches. If you do a lot of auto work, you’ll need a metric set. Or you can go for a combination set, which is usually cheaper than buying wrenches individually.

Bob Vila Radio is a newly launched daily radio spot carried on more than 75 stations around the country (and growing). You can get your daily dose here, by listening to—or reading—Bob’s 60-second home improvement radio tip of the day.

For more on tools, consider:

Bob Vila Radio: Levels
Bob Vila Radio: Tool Tip — Sandpaper
Bob Vila Radio: Power Drills

Bob Vila Radio: Wrench Roundup Home Improvement, Home Remodeling & Home Repair - BobVila.com

Photo: wikimedia.org

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Listen to BOB VILA ON LEVELS or read the text below:

There are specialized levels for different jobs—mason’s levels, post levels, line levels—but they all work on the same principle. A slightly curved glass or plastic tube is filled almost completely with a liquid, usually a colored spirit or alcohol. This leaves an air bubble suspended in the tube. When the level is placed on a surface, you’ll know the surface is level if the bubble centers perfectly between sets of parallel lines printed on the tube.

Every workshop should have levels in several lengths. Most levels have more than one tube, with at least one mounted transversely so the tool can be used both vertically and horizontally. There is also sometimes a tube running at a 45-degree angle.

A quality level will have an air bubble that precisely touches the parallel lines and reacts quickly when the level is moved. Look for levels with smooth surfaces free of seams or end caps that could affect accuracy. Some levels have a magnetic strip down one side, leaving your hands free to make adjustments. That comes in handy when you’re working with a metal surface like an appliance that needs leveling.

Bob Vila Radio is a newly launched daily radio spot carried on more than 75 stations around the country (and growing). You can get your daily dose here, by listening to—or reading—Bob’s 60-second home improvement radio tip of the day.

For more on tools, consider:

Bob Vila Radio: Power Drill
Bob Vila Radio: Tool Tip — Ratchet Sets
Bob Vila Radio: Types of Paintbrushes

Bob Vila Radio: Levels Home Improvement, Home Remodeling & Home Repair - BobVila.com

1. WORK TABLE

Photo: EAA

Designed for building small aircraft, this work table is built from easy-to-find materials and features simple yet rigid construction. Though it’s able to withstand a banging, the table is still lightweight and compact enough to be portable. I use a similarly designed bench in every single one of my projects and I love it.

2. GARAGE OR BASEMENT BENCH

Photo: Family Handyman

This workbench from The Family Handyman perfectly suits those who work in a garage or basement (any space that is shared with other family activities). The setup includes a stable surface for hobby or repair projects, a built-in pegboard for storage, a shop light, plus a recessed shelf that allows for seating.

3. TOOL CABINET WORKBENCH

Photo: Woodsmith Magazine

If you are looking for a mobile or small-space solution—or you want a secondary work surface to complement an existing bench—consider this idea from Woodsmith: a rolling tool cabinet outfitted with a solid top. A small vise and a power strip are included here, along with magnetic and pegboard tool storage, not to mention the storage provided by the cabinet drawers.

4. DOOR-TOP BENCH

Photos: Woodgears

Planning on doing some serious work with hand tools? A solid-core door makes an excellent workbench top, as in this design from Woodgears. The base is made of affordable dimensional lumber, with joints that are both glued and bolted, meaning this bench is not only a thrifty option, but a sturdy one, indeed.

5. LAMINATED MDF WORKBENCH 

Photo: Fine Woodworking

My next bench will be inspired by this design from Fine Woodworking. Though intended for sophisticated woodworking, it won’t cost a lot to assemble. The top uses two sheets of laminated MDF, and the plan incorporates handy features like bench dog holes and a woodworking vise.

For more on woodworking, consider:

Blog Stars: In the Workshop
Manage Noise in Your Workshop
How To: Stock Your Woodworking Shop

DIY Workbenches: 5 You Can Build in a Weekend Home Improvement, Home Remodeling & Home Repair - BobVila.com

Photo: CGardner

A mitered corner is formed by joining two pieces of wood, each cut to a 45° angle. One of the easier joints to cut, a mitered corner does not require a lot of special tools or setup time, yet it’s useful in a variety of applications.

Choose your weapon. A hand saw, circular saw, or table saw may be used to make a mitered corner. If you’re interested in building basic picture frames or doing light work with trim and molding, consider purchasing an inexpensive miter box, a tool that helps woodworkers achieve accurate angles.

There are two types of miter joints—flat and edge. A flat miter, also known as a frame miter, joins two pieces that have been cut across the wood face. The best power tool option here is the compound miter saw, which is of course named for its ability to make these angled cuts.

A case miter joins two edges that have been “beveled,” or, cut at an angle across the end grain. The most versatile tool here is the table saw, whose blade can be tilted. If you opt instead for the circular saw, smooth out the rough cut it makes using a router and chamfer bit.

Table Saw Blade Tilted for Miter Joint. Photo: CGardner

Cut it out. Let’s say you’re cutting a basic frame miter. Set up your saw at precisely 45° (double-check the angle with a triangle), then cut the angle so that your workpiece reaches the desired length on its longest side. Repeat the process on the opposite end of the workpiece.

Related: 5 Easy Woodworking Projects for Beginners

If installing trim or molding, you can get away with nailing in one piece before butting the second, but stabilizing the joint by other means can be tricky. Freshly glued edges are so prone to slipping around, it’s tough to get precise alignment, though specialty clamps, such as the strap clamp, aid in the process.

Strap Clamp. Photo: rutlands.co.uk

The trouble with miters. They certainly look great, but there’s a problem with miter joints—they’re not very strong. As suggested above, glue tends to set in them poorly, and even if screws or nails are used, those fasteners may not hold when sunk into end grain.

Depending on the project, it may be possible to use dowels as reinforcement. Woodworkers also use biscuits, keys, and splines, any of which may serve as a decorative accent if created from a contrasting wood species. Still, a mitered joint on its own boasts a finished, professional look.

For more on woodworking, consider:

10 Ways to Use Your Drill/Driver
How To: Drill Straight 90° Holes (Without a Drill Press)
Bit of Knowledge: Choosing the Right Drill Bit for the Job

How To: Make a Mitered Corner Home Improvement, Home Remodeling & Home Repair - BobVila.com

Photo: diylife.com

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Listen to BOB VILA ON SANDPAPER or read the text below:

Sandpaper is typically made from the chemical compounds aluminum oxide or silicon carbide, or of the mineral garnet. Ground-up particles of these abrasive materials are glued to a backing that might be made of paper, cloth, or polyester film to create sandpaper, or what we now call “coated abrasives.”

Sandpaper’s coarseness is measured in grit size, or the number of particles per square inch of paper. The higher the number the finer the paper. Coarse sandpaper, in the 40 to 60 range, is best for rough shaping or removing old finishes. The next step up, medium grit—between 80 and 120—is for general sanding and final shaping work. Fine grit, in the 150 to 180 range, is for final sanding. Very fine sandpaper, 220 through 240, is used for sanding between coats of varnish. Extra-fine and super-fine grits, beyond 240, are also often used in sanding of final finishes.

Bob Vila Radio is a newly launched daily radio spot carried on more than 75 stations around the country (and growing). You can get your daily dose here, by listening to—or reading—Bob’s 60-second home improvement radio tip of the day.

For more on tools, consider:

Laser Levels
Ratchet Sets
Pliers

Bob Vila Radio: Tool Tip – Sandpaper Home Improvement, Home Remodeling & Home Repair - BobVila.com