The Dean of Home Renovation & Repair Advice

Category: Walls & Ceilings


Character Building: A Case for Moldings

I live in an old house that was virtually stripped of its moldings in the 1970s. It was an act of modernization, ever so popular back then when it was the style to simplify. My house, however, was built in 1867, when trims were considered the finishing touches to a room. It would have been considered bad taste not to have a fancy wooden or plaster molding crowning the upper walls.

On the parlor floor, where the public rooms of the house are located, crown molding survives only in the dining room and library. It offers a glimpse of the well-conceived decorative trim that once dressed the 12-foot walls. The adjacent room—which we plan to use as a small family sitting room—had some insignificant 2-inch trim that looked very out of place by comparison. Upstairs, it appears that moldings were never installed, making the 10-foot-high ceilings look naked.

Before I could find a suitable molding profile, I needed to educate myself on a variety of fronts and turned to the folks at Good Millwork to help me understand the four terms that are bandied about in millwork selection: height, width, thickness and projection.

Moldings

GoodMillwork.com

Next, I needed to learn some basic rules:

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What Do You Say to a Naked Ceiling? Remodel.

It started with a casual stare. Then I gave my kitchen ceiling a withering glance and declared it dreadful! The kitchen actually changes elevation over the cooktop from a flat to a peaked ceiling so the transition that should have been an eye-catcher, was actually an eye-sore. I knew a ceiling remodel was in order.

A fresh coat of paint would certainly be an easy solution to conceal the nasty, discolored wallboard. But, I wanted the ceiling to be more important. Perhaps even a different material… like the wood plank ceilings that I remember seeing in European homes. And that’s exactly what I decided to do.

I live in the land of pecky cypress (Georgia) and wanted to adorn the ceiling with a local wood that looked like it had always been part of the house. Finding rough sawn cypress was not a problem, though it was disappointing to discover that much of the knotty character would be lost when planed into tongue-and-groove planks.

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Wood Paneling: Before and After

Paneled Library New York City BrownstoneHere’s a before-and-after worth noting. The wood wall paneling inside an 1890s NYC brownstone was severely damaged nearly a century after its installation—by a guy with a sandblaster. What to do?

The apartment’s interior features a beautiful Jacobean ceiling, parquet oak floors, and floor-to-ceiling paneling of quarter-sawn oak. The paneled walls had probably been painted and left that way, until someone realized there was beautiful wood under the paint and chose to use a sandblaster. Sadly, that someone didn’t realize how much damage would result from using such a drastic method of paint removal. All the wood paneling now has a severely distressed grain which, even when stained and varnished, resembles fir plywood.

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How To: Install a Drywall Anchor

So you bought a new towel rack—or some shelving brackets, or a paper towel holder—and you want to attach it to the wall. And you want that rack, bracket, or holder to do its job. You want it not to rip down under the weight of a towel or another non-heavy item. There are a variety of options for securing a rack (or what have you) to the wall. One of the most popular ways is to use an easy-to-install drywall anchor.

Here’s a step-by-step guide to installing one:

How to Install a Drywall Anchor

Photo: Pete Fazio

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Three Ways to Find a Wall Stud (Without Fancy Equipment)

We’ve all been there, right? “Oh, I just need to find a stud to hang this picture” and fifteen holes later you’re convinced the wall is held up by pixie dust and a wish, because apparently there’s no wood behind it.

As anyone who knows me will tell you, I will jump at any opportunity to buy a new tool—like I need to hang a picture, I have a bee sting, or it’s Tuesday. Really, it doesn’t take much. But, I have a rule about only buying tools that really work and I happen to think of stud finders the same way I do ghost detectors… exciting for the five seconds that they are beeping and a total let down after that.

After months of framing the big addition to my current house, I now have a good enough understanding of the structure of a wall to help me find studs whenever I need to.

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How To: Finish Drywall Joints

How to Finish Drywall Joints

Photo: Kit Stansley

Most of the time finishing drywall joints isn’t one of those jobs that has people jumping up and down with excitement. Even with a decent amount of drywall experience under my belt, when faced with the 2000 square feet of unfinished drywall in my current house, all I could picture was a lot of sanding in my future. Like, for all of eternity. Luckily I had a great mentor to teach me some of the tricks of the trade, and in no time my joints required very little sanding for a perfectly smooth wall.

GETTING STARTED

Before you can finish drywall joints you need to have actual wallboard in place. You can learn how to install drywall here. The thing to keep in mind is that a sheet of drywall has slightly beveled ends which make finishing joints much easier. When hanging the boards it will be tempting to use small scraps to finish things off, but you’ll be hurting yourself in the long run.  Always try to use the factory edges to create your joints.

Now, let’s talk mud.

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