08:29PM | 10/23/06
Member Since: 10/23/06
1 lifetime posts
I'm going to attemp these dimensional shingles for the firts time. It says use a 5-5/8 reveal and the size of the shingle is an odd 13inch something? I'm used to 12x36. My question is what is the correct way to stagger these and where is the proper place to begin? I don't want to mess this up its my roof I'm working on this time.

Oh yeah another thing the roll out ventsure for the ridge vent comes in 20ft lengths. I need like 45ft. Do I buy three rolls or is ok to just do 40ft and would it look weird if so? Does it need to go the complete length regardless of how much I have cut open on the ridge. I have the roof pulled down and tomorrow I plan to paper it and drip edge it. That reminds me the paper from the last roof is pretty decent with only a few open spots that are open from me doing the pull off. Is it ok to go over top of the old paper and do I have to do the whole roof or just patch the open areas? or do all the holes from the last million shingles need to be covered? I'm green to this stuff so forgive me if they seem like stupid questions. I appreciate all the help you can lend me.


04:38PM | 11/07/06
Member Since: 11/06/06
5 lifetime posts
you should set your gun and stagger at 5 5-8. those are the new heritage shingles and it will work out for a perfect stair step. and in regards to you ridge vent. dont waste your money. buy 40 foot and bring it in two and a half foot on each end. it does not matter if you cut out your 3 inches already. hopefully this helps


04:41PM | 11/07/06
Member Since: 11/06/06
5 lifetime posts
also you need to lay all new felt down. i personally never use old felt. poses to much of a risk for leak if the shingles do ever leak. as for laying ove the old felt. as long as it is laying flat. go for it it will not pose a problem.


04:23PM | 01/01/07
Member Since: 11/10/06
138 lifetime posts
Since I don`t know you I`ll tell ya how I do it.

After stipping (never a go-over) apply a full with roll or rolls (lapping 4")of ice and water barrier along the entire length of the eves. ( if in a valley, ..up the valley no less than 24")

Apply eve dripedge (customers choice of color and material)

Apply full with of ice and water barrier up the rakes and in the vallies,useing the center of the ice and water barrier in the vally. Apply around all penatrations and along+up the walls if you can with (full with) ice and water barrier but you can skip the ridgeline row. ( you may have to remove sidding to go up walls,...Additional cost)

Roll out a full with of shingle uderlayment paper (not felt) the entire length of the eves between the ice and water barrier. (you should be able to tack it off up past the middle of the paper)

Apply the first piece of dripedge to the rake or rakes (always measure the rakes and divide the dripedge so not to be too close with the lapps or a shorty on the top)nail it up as high as you can but be careful not to pull it in too mcuh or let it hang out too far (play with it )and use nails spaced 5" up in a Z pattern were you can catch (useually the first crimp).....Just use alot !! If you don`t they warp when they heat up !! and forty five all corners.

Hook the eve dripedge with your tape and make a tick or mark at 12 and a half inches up the left rake, or wall...then the right rake,or wall, or up from the bottom of a valley

Chalk this line in one run if you can, use a center mark if you can`t.

Measure the distance down to the edge of the dripedge along the eves to make sure the with of the first row of shingles does not show the dripedge. ( If it`s more than thirteen inches to to edge, the dripedge will show in wich case ...move the line to an even 12" and foget the first line)

Apply starter course shingles, not roofing shingles to the edge of the eves even to the dripedge. (cut 5" off the length of the first piece to stagger the joints with the first row of roofing)

Apply the top of the first full shingle (correct nailing) and the second full shingle to the chaulk line at the bottom of left rake or wall stepflashing (never start the valley unless it`s two planes with a valley) or right rake if called for. (anyone nailing next to you does full shingles to the rake cut or up the valley 12" or to the wall stepflashing cut)Pipes too !!

Before doing the second row, make marks at 5 and a half inches from the top of the first shingle,as high as you can,on the left dripedge,...the center....and the right dripedge. Chaulk these lines and check with your tape to make sure the rows are 5 and a half inches appart.

Cut 5" off the right side of the first piece of the second row then apply a next full shingle.(on the chaulk lines)

Cut 10" off the first piece of the third row and a full shingle next.(on the chaulk lines)

Put in the first row of staging brackets being sure to hit the rafters. Do not put on the planks.

Cut 15" off the first piece of the fourth row and a full shingle next. (Always on the chaulk lines)

Put on the planks being sure they lap on a bracket and never butt them, ( rafters don`t land that way.)climb up on the stageing.

Cut 20" off the first piece of the fifth row and a full shingle next. (stay on the lines,and don`t panic if the rows dip, it will come back on the lines.

Put on another row of underlayment paper,and dripedge if needed.

Cut 25" off the first piece of the sixth row and a full shingle next. (stay on the lines)

Cut 30" off the first piece of the seventh row and a full shingle next.

Apply full shingles to the eigth row.

Start the nineth row with the cut off of the seventh row and a full shingle.

Start the tenth row with the cut off from the sixth row and a full shingle.

Continue this until you use the first rows cut off, then use full shingles on the next and start the process over again,all the way up the rake. Space your stageing so that you are comfortable with the reach.

Notes: Chaulk out the roof plane in 5 and a half inch rows to use the top line to measure down to go around dormers,chimneys,ect.ect.

Nail approx. 1" from the two ends of each shingle,and the next two approx.12" in from the ends and the fifth in the center of those,......with your 8oz. wooden handled, titanium roofing hatchett with the stainless steel blade and screws,...and you`ll never have nails near a joint. Never use nail guns. Pull nails with your claw hammer.

If you need help with flashings.....Give OddBall a shout !! Good luck.


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