We moved into a house 3 yrs ago and have had ice dams two of the last three winters when we had heavy snowstorms.No one has been able to diagnose our problem as of yet.We replaced the roof completely after the first incident.We will be adding cellulose insulation to the attic next week to insure we have proper insulation.Our ventilation is good there.We have been told by different people to put in heating cable,pull up the shingles and add ice and water barrier,or remove the gutters.We have no idea what the best course of action would be. Can anyone offer some sound advice on this? Thanks.
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If you get outside air coming into the attic so that the inside of the attic and the outside air are nearly the same. and the addition of insulation to prevent conditioned air from reaching the attic should prevent ice damns.
Great! Thank you. Looks like we are on the right track. The new insulation is in the attic now. We have alot of water damage and the person who put the insulation in said we may want to find someone who has a thermal imaging camera to find out how much water damage we have and where it was coming in. Have you ever heard of this?
It`ll kill your home,and you`ll hardly eva see it comming !!
If you live in snow country,...It is essential to protect (with ice and water barrier) the decking under asphalt roofing for the first three feet. I do six !! but three can do fine. Areas to cover are , flanges after the first course is under, all four or more sides of chimnies and skylights. entire lenght of eves, up all rakes, centered in ALL vallies, and if you CARE FOR YOUR HOME....up all joinning walls a minimum of two feet. Wall siding can suck water sideways along the angle cut as far back as the siding and painted butts allow, this can and will drain behind the stepflashing. NOT GOOD !! Exsisting siding will cost alot to ajust and or re-place, but the cost of sill or framming damage will hurt !!
Calculated ventilation, properly installed is the other, just as important half !!
The product was not available when older homes were built.
If you live in snow country,...It is essential to protect (with ice and water barrier) the decking under asphalt roofing for the first three feet. I do six !! but three can do fine. Areas to cover are , flanges after the first course is under, all four or more sides of chimnies and skylights. entire lenght of eves, up all rakes, centered in ALL vallies, and if you CARE FOR YOUR HOME....up all joinning walls a minimum of two feet. Wall siding can suck water sideways along the angle cut as far back as the siding and painted butts allow, this can and will drain behind the stepflashing. NOT GOOD !! Exsisting siding will cost alot to ajust and or re-place, but the cost of sill or framming damage will hurt !!
Calculated ventilation, properly installed is the other, just as important half !!
The product was not available when older homes were built.
