NEED,this is how I did it;leave a space of between 1 and 3 inches between concrete and framing.Then install electrical,plumbing,media and HVAC.Next install your insulation. Follow that with a plastic vapor barrier attached to the framing.Complete the job with drywall.

I know you have mentioned that you had 1-3 inches between the wall and the framing. How about in between each 2X4's. Also, is their any trick or trade I need to know before starting the framing.

Thanks

If you put the plastic barrier on won't you be traping the moisture in the wall cavity? Creating a place for MOLD and ROT!!

usg,normal framing procedure calls for 2x4's to be 16" on center. also.use pressure treated wood on the bottom sill.

carl,granted it is a possibility if you have an older home that has existing water problems.

I have a new constuction custom home that has no water problems and don't forsee to ever have any problems.

I know that there are two sides to how it should be done but this is a tried and true method in this area and it can't be all wrong.

What does your house have for moisture barrier on the out side?

the big problem with basements is no water proofing on the outside, just the standard damp-proofing that can have built up water on the outside due to clay soils push it's way in.. if the foundation is dry ,then a vapor barrier does go up on the warm in winter side. during a normal heating season you can have over 20 quarts of water try to head into the wall space to condense. outlets should have the air barrier box on them too. studs could even be at 2 foot centers. one problem with the gap behind the wall is if it is not also filled with insulation is that any moisture in there can fall down and condense as the warm air rises.there is a new insulation made of volcanic rock or called "roxul plus" .

but with a dry foundation any moisture that gets into the space behind the wall will be absorbed by the dry foundation.

try this product to water proof a basement on the outside.

http://deltams.com/deltams/index.html