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JDawgIII

04:48PM | 02/06/04
Member Since: 02/05/04
1 lifetime posts
Bvbasement
Hey Ya'll...

I found this site by doing some searches and what not. Nice site Bob... Hopefully somebody here will be able to resolve my issue...

Here's my situation. I have a brick cape cod that was built in 1942. It's beautiful and my wife and I adore it, we'll be in here for a year at the end of this month. Well, I have water in my basement. Up until today it was just a little here and there. Of course when I bought the house the disclosure said a small amount of water gathers at the drain during a heavy rain. I had the home inspected as well, but they didn't find anything... Nice!!!

I read the posts on this topic for the last year and there were only 2 which suprised me. Of course it's the same thing I'm running into. 1 guy says to dig and 1 guy says to seal... Soooooo... What do I really do? Sealing is way cheaper then digging. If you read the waterproofing companies web sites they say sealing is bad because it allows water to soak into the cement and then not come out. They said this could cause cracking from the water freezing and expanding.

The sealer companies say that letting water in is bad because it washes soil away and why let water in at all? They also made 2 other good points. 1 with a whole in the ground for a sump pump you take the chance of letting radon gas in. 2 if you have a thunderstorm (heavy rain) and the power goes out what’s the pump going to do for power? This again could cause the basement to flood. I'd like to finish the basement, but I don't want to finish it as an indoor pool...

Now, for the details... Sorry this is so long, but details always help and hopefully lead to a solution... The house has pored concrete floors with paint over it. It looks like it was pored in 2 sections and most of the water comes up right at the crack between the 2 sections and runs to a drain. I'm pretty sure it's a French drain. Most of the water on the 1 side drains to this drain.

On the other side it's coming in at 1 or 2 spots at the wall and floor seem (where the wall meets the floor). It's also coming up through some cracks in the floor.

I know somebody is going to ask, so yes I do have rain gutters and downspouts and all that fun stuff. My 1 rain gutter looks like it might be sagging some, but it's on the opposite wall of the problem area. It works, I'm just concerned that water might not be running to the down spout like it should, but all other spouts and what not work fine, I'm 90% sure this one is OK too...

I'm don't have any water coming in through the walls, it looks like just the floor. If there is anything coming through the walls, it's very little and probably could be sealed. Well, maybe... I guess if I knew about water proofing a basement I wouldn't be here typing all this right now huh???

I live in PA about an hour north of Philadelphia... If any body knows of any contractors I could call or if you are a contractor that does this sort of thing please let me know. I'm sure I could handle the paint sealing and stuff, but if I have to dig the perimeter I'll probably let somebody else have that fun...

This is what I was thinking of doing myself. At the joint where the 2 floors meet I was thinking of digging that out. It's only about 6 feet long because it's right in line with a support all. Dig that down how ever far and put perforated pipe in there running to a sump pump. Then just seal the basement with a hydrostatic sealer or spray.

Please let me know your thoughts and experiences with anything I mentioned... I'm interested to find out about the sealers because of the cost factor...

Sorry if this is long winded, but I have about 1-2" of water in my basement right now and I'd rather it not be there and not be able to come in again...

Thanks in advance...

Jesse

P.S. I found this product when I did a google search http://www.radonseal.com/ If you do a google search for basement waterproofing, you get a ton of products like this...

plumber Tom

11:29AM | 02/07/04
Member Since: 05/10/03
801 lifetime posts
Jesse, call Bone-Dry Waterproofing and ask to speak to Nick or Bruce. They will give you free advice on the phone, and even will come out and give you a free estimate. I have worked for these guys personally and they are honest and reliable. The toll free # is : (800) 772-6030. They have almost 30 years experience. They can provide references for jobs that they have done in your areas , and you can call these people to chat with them personally. Tell them plumber Tom (Tom Rowland) recommended you. Good Luck Jesse. plumber Tom

devildog

06:58AM | 02/11/04
Member Since: 09/16/02
250 lifetime posts
I don't know about all of your problems, you ask about the pump working during a power outage. I just put an emergency back-up system in that runs off the city water pressure. As long as you have city water that keeps pressure during power outages you should be able to install one of these also. Some soldering and PVC work involved with mine. It was easy.

If you don't have city water they also sell battery back-up pumps. These will only work for so long, but they buy you some time until you figure out who has your generator.

Good luck with the other porblems,
Devildog

skootch

06:31AM | 06/28/07
Member Since: 06/07/07
5 lifetime posts
Jesse,

First the disclosures

1. I work for a waterproofing manufacturer www.appliedtechnologies.com . Having said that, none of the products we sell will work for you.

2. One of the products we sell is similar to the one you have listed.

We get calls everyday with people in the same situation as you. That is, you have water coming up from under your slab with no water coming through the wall. Or you have water coming through the "crack" at the floor and wall connection. This is not a crack. It is where the concrete for the floor slab shrunk as it cured. The footer for the foundation wall is directly under this.

These are the same problem. That is, the water level is rising below your slab and finally gets to a level ABOVE your floor. It's pretty easy to figure out where the water table level in the soil is when this happens, It's to the depth of the water on your floor.

Okay, so why won't the polyurethanes work for floor cracks?

1. They can run out of the crack and into the gravel below the slab due to simple gravity before they have reacted.

2. Even if it stays in the crack, you have now sealed off the "pressure relief" valve for the water to flow out. So now, the water level will still rise but not have anywhere to go. The water most likely find another spot to come out in. Or maybe crack the foundation further.

Your draintile is plugged, not functioning or the sump pump is too low of a capacity.

The fix is to get out the phone book and call a professional waterproofing contractor. There will be dozens in your area. Get 4 estimates. The pricing can vary widely. Don't be afraid of a low estimate. The cost is mostly labor as there is very little materials used.

They will come out, jackhammer around the basement perimeter and install a new drain tile and sump system.

Radon can be a problem, but you need this done. See if you can get a sealed sump pit and lid that won't let radon into the basement. They are available.

stadry

04:54PM | 08/19/14
Member Since: 08/19/14
17 lifetime posts
the only reason sealing doesn't work well is that water is still allowed to penetrate your bsmt walls & floor,,, when's the last time your basement got below 30f ? certainly we never did in upstate ny UNLESS someone left a cellar window open

somehow wtr is already being ' let in ' in a perfect world, it wouldn't happen but life's not perfect

IF you live your life in a bsmt & never breathe clean air, radon MIGHT affect you,,, of all the homes we radon-proofed, none were critical however all were owned by anal folks who had big wallets :-)

battery-back-up pumps are marginal at best impo & 1 is never enough,,, better you should install a water-power'd pump

IF you already have a french drain, you'll see 4" pipe leading to the sump even if you have to dig a bit,,, sometimes we use bedliner which will bridge cracks & holds against 2 atmospheres of wtr pressure when applied to a clean conc wall

are you as far north as scranton ? or harford ? great bend ? good luck !


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