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LicensedWaterproofer

09:53PM | 04/24/04
Member Since: 03/05/04
301 lifetime posts
Bvbasement
most people get water in their basements due to vertical,step,horizontal cracks and openings around gas lines & electric lines enter on the Outside of their walls and/or from direct openings above ground through open mortar joints,loose-cracked bricks,windows & doors,light fixtures etc.That is also how/why mold and efflorescence exists & grows because water/moisture is entering the home through these openings below & above ground.And at least 40% of existing homes have some structural damage(bowing,buckling of wall) due to hydrostatic pressure on the outside of a basement wall...the pressure is caused from dirt/clay/roots that is on the Outside of the wall...not from under the floor! So..duh, common sense should tell all that the CORRECT means to stop(waterproof)a crack(s)in the wall is to go outside,not inside.Thats how you stop the water/moisture from entering,and is also how a homeowner will stop mold/efflorescence from breeding and also the only way to take hydrostatic pressure off the outside of a wall.You CANNOT take any Hyd pressure that exists on the outside of a wall from an inside water diverting method...IMPOSSIBLE! I`ll yet again repeat that because it sounds"Vaguely" important! Hyd pressure is on the Outside of the wall...not inside...it is caused from dirt/clay/roots that pushes against the wall...O U T S I D E! Ya have to get rid of the dirt/clay/roots and backfill with all peastone/gravel to help take ANY pressure that exists on the outside of a wall.

LicensedWaterproofer

10:12PM | 04/24/04
Member Since: 03/05/04
301 lifetime posts
that you dont like the fact I post without a direct question! I post facts about waterproofing...any harm in that? I`m sorry some of you do not get the FACT that an Inside water-Diverting method does Not take ANY Hyd pressure which exists outside,off the wall,it cannot! An Inside method also cannot STOP(waterproof) water-moisture that enters MOST homes from direct openings that exist on the outside of the house.That sounds important too...hmm...an Inside method cannot stop water from entering cracks which exist on the outside of a wall and so it also cannot stop MOLD and efflorescence either! An Inside method ONLY" diverts" water that has already entered the wall..under the floor.Your not going to fool me with your crap method....like I`ve mentioned before,I have and will do an inside method (only when absolutely necessary which is less than 10% of all jobs)it is easy to install an inside method and it costs the contractor LESS,yet many of the companies who ONLY install the inside method charge as much if not more than the outside...why? There is alot less labor involved and alot less in materials so why do MANY of these companies rip off the homeowners and over-charge? And why do these same companies tell a homeowner who only has water coming in from 1 wall or from 1 corner that they need the entire(4 walls) basement done? They do not need 4 walls done when they merely have 1 wall where there is seepage...they are being scammed/taken for a ride. And I`ll repeat yet again that Most homeowners seepage problems are due to openings which exist on the outside of their home that allows water/moisture/dampness to enter! Too many people are being lied to and cheated outta their hard earned money from these inside companies and G Haege types who pump the public full of crap..repeatedly,on the radio and in news articles..Haege has nowhere near the hands-on experience needed to speak about waterproofing.

LicensedWaterproofer

10:32PM | 04/24/04
Member Since: 03/05/04
301 lifetime posts
ok Devildog..just where do you think the water goes that your trying to divert an extra 5-10' away from the house with an extended downspout? Huh? I`ll tell you where it goes...it winds up in the same soil against your house and elsewhere in the SAME area! You think by diverting some or all "surface water" 1-3' deep in the soil by means of longer extensions,raising the grade,french drains etc that these means are keeping all the water,deeper in the ground away from the entire wall? No..lol. Try and Think of how water moves through soil..deeper underground will ya.What I said Devil was that "you and others can play with your diverting techniques all you want but if there is a crack(s) in the wall below ground why not fix/seal the Problem? The problem,the reason the wall leaks is because there is a crack!" I speak with hundreds of homeowners week after week and thousands every year,I go to their homes and see what they`ve "tried" to do with ways of diverting water away from the house and 9 outta 10 continue to leak after they`ve tried ALL the diverting techniques.They continue to leak because they had direct openings on the outside of the house that are still open! Cracks in the walls,openings around gas line where it enters through a wall,underground,and they could not divert all the water away after years of trying.They needed the crack sealed correctly and in some cases would have prevented mold/efflorescence from ruining their drywall-paneling-carpet etc if they would have fixed the crack earlier.And some had more movement/bowing of their wall..why take THAT chance to further structural damage?

LicensedWaterproofer

03:25AM | 04/25/04
Member Since: 03/05/04
301 lifetime posts
...why do you think many of these Inside only companies "place a sheeting against the wall where it is leaking" ? Because after these inside guys install their method they know that they are Not stopping the water/moisture from entering AND are Not taking Hyd pressure off the outside of the wall and would rather HIDE the further deterioration of the wall and HIDE the further growth of mold-efflorescence that will get worse because the water/moisture is still entering the wall. Get that? Or is that rambling on? These are valid,very important points dont ya think? Even though most of these inside companies put certain points that they will Not guarantee in small print (and most homeowners do not read all of the small print)...these companies do not take the time to go into detail and fully explain what the inside method is NOT going to do for their basement,they like to "skip" over certain things.And we always hear from some homeowners who have had an inside method done state"Well,I don`t have any water on my floor anymore"....and thats prolly true,no water on the floor,but what they and some of you do NOT get is water-moisture is still entering the walls,creating the likelihood of mold,efflorescence and the same dirt/soil/clay/roots is STILL against the outside of the wall which can cause further cracks in the wall and further buckling-bowing-deterioration of their walls.40% of existing homes already HAVE a wall or 2 that has bowing-movement,so what is the best thing to do for those people..an Inside method? Lol,sure!

Anonymous

04:15AM | 04/25/04
Tom-Devil-Homie...1)Can hydrostatic pressure that constantly exists against the outside of a basement wall cause a wall to crack and bow-buckle? 2) Will having an Inside method installed (drain tile)under the basement floor take ANY hyd pressure off the outside of a basement wall? 3) Will having an Inside method installed stop-prevent mold and efflorescenece from growing on the inner face of a basement wall or inside the cells of a block wall when there are cracks on the outside of a wall? 4) Would it be wise for all homeowners to whenever possible,eliminate all sources of water-moisture in their basements to prevent mold? 5) Is indoor mold an unhealthy environment for all,especially the elderly,infants & children,people with asthma,people who suffer from a weakened immune system,and our pets? 6) How will ANY water-diverting technique including french drains,sloping grade,longer downspout extensions etc keep all water-moisture away from vertical crack(s) that exist 6-8' deep in walls or away from 20-30' long horizontal crack(s) that runs-exists the entire length of a basmenet wall precisely at "the top of the first course of block above the footing"? 7) Isnt it true that these diverting techniques will divert "surface water 1-3' deep" away from a wall but simply CANNOT divert water that exists and wicks in the soil deeper,underground away from the rest of a basement wall? 8) If there is a cracked footing under a basement wall,how will having an Inside method installed or sump-pump installed or ANY water-diverting technique help the footing support the wall in the near future,wont the wall continue to move and possibly even buckle? ...many more for ya,answer me those plz!

Linda1

03:12PM | 06/03/04
Member Since: 06/02/04
2 lifetime posts
Thank you for the information on leaks. I have had a quote on waterprofing from the inside. We were not sure if we should do this. Your posts have helped make the right decission. thank you

Now it comes down to the hard part getting the house dug up. I have a few crakes in basement. I haven't had pools of water but sigs of water dribbling down walls.how do you know if your basement structure is in realy bad shape?
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