COMMUNITY FORUM

LicensedWaterproofer

09:20PM | 11/01/04
Member Since: 03/05/04
301 lifetime posts
Bvbasement
If you have water coming from your basement wall(s) and/or coming from what is called the'isolation joint' which is where the bottom of bsmt wall meets the floor then you have an opening directly on the outside of the house where you are noticing water on the inside & the only way to stop the water from entering is to go...outside! Any inside method at best Only diverts the water that has already entered the wall.....under the floor. Thats what B Dry,Everdry etc do...they'divert' the water under the bsmt floor,they do not stop the water from entering your wall(s).Only way to do that is to hand dig to footing,haul dirt away,scrape & wire brush bsmt wall,fill any crack-openings with hydraulic cement,apply a thick tar & 6 mil visqueen on wall and backfill with 100% pea stone. This lessens the 'hydrostatic pressure' on the outside of the wall caused from tons of dirt which causes walls to crack,bow,buckle. And also removes any roots from trees and large bushes that also can crack a wall. It is the only way to stop water/moisture from entering your wall which causes mold and efflorescence.An inside method 1)does not stop water/moisture from entering 2)does not take any hydrostatic pressure off the outside walls 3)does not stop mold and efflorescence....again, it only diverts water that has already entered under your bsmt floor. The G Haege`s of the world like to turn that around...here is a guy who has never,ever done a basement waterproofing job and is not license to do such work yet pollutes and distorts the truths about basement waterproofing year after year. He likes to tell you that it costs $200-300 per linear foot to do the outside method...this just simply is not true,in fact on most homes costs approx. $70-90 a foot and you only need to fix or waterproof the part/section on the bsmt wall where you actually have a problem! Some of these inside only contractors like to try `n talk you into doing 3-4 walls when you are only leaking in 1 area of 1 wall. And the inside method is much less labor-intensive and needs much less in materials yet they want to charge you anywhere from 7,000-20,000..unbelieveable!

LicensedWaterproofer

09:41PM | 11/01/04
Member Since: 03/05/04
301 lifetime posts
look...the Reason any of us are getting water in the basement in either a)there is a crack or other direct opening on the outside of house which allows water to enter b)you live in an area with a high water table and you have water coming up through cracks in the bsmt floor or up through floor drain.....which is an entirely different problem than seepage from a wall and needs an entirely different remedy. If you have water coming up through cracks in the floor you will need a sump pump (s) to control the water level under your basement floor! If you have water coming up through floor drain you will need an honest plumber to snake the drain. But if you have water coming from the basement wall, then you need an honest waterproofing contractor to fix your problem from the outside. Some people like to think that by raising the grade on outside or extending the downspout 1/2 mile away from house will totally and forever 'fix' their problem. Hey...its fine to try and divert ground level water away from your house but do you really think thats why you are leaking in the first place? No..the reason your leaking ...again, is cuz there is a direct opening(s) either below ground and/or above ground which is allowing water to enter the house. It is Impossible to divert all water away from the entire basement wall..just cant do it.Raising the grade and extending the downspout diverts"some surface water" away....key word is surface! No one is going to keep all the water away from a 6`-8` basement wall...where do you think the water goes after you divert some of it away? Down into the ground...right? Which it thens will accumulate and 'wick' underground and spread out, think about it.

LicensedWaterproofer

10:01PM | 11/01/04
Member Since: 03/05/04
301 lifetime posts
knowing that you have a crack in the wall,say maybe behind paneling, but you extended your downspout and now you almost never get water in? Hmmm....would you want to buy a house where the owner did that to you? Why not fix the problem correctly? I see this year after year, some homeowners will try the "quick,spend $10 & hope and pray" fix...or actually try and hide the problem by painting the basement wall to hide mold `n efflorescence,hide cracks by putting paneling up. Leave it for the next guy routine...then they wonder why they get sued by new homeowner. Why should the new homeowner have to pay for a Pre-existing problem? Just isnt right. And by the way, for those of you who have poured bsmt walls and'only' leak through the rod holes...you can fix/seal those correctly from the inside! The reason rod holes often leak is because the state only requires a builder to place 1 cork in a hole that is approx 12 inches in thickness. Should have been completely plugged with numerous corks and/or hydraulic cement when the house was built. Why would it be so difficult for the builder to have these holes plugged correctly, we arent talking about much time or money to do this right..so whats the problem? And why cant builders haul away their garbage instead of backfilling it against new walls? I`m talking about bricks,blocks,wood,cans and bunch of other crap.

LicensedWaterproofer

10:29PM | 11/01/04
Member Since: 03/05/04
301 lifetime posts
...then, on a dry day get a hose and let it run full blast at ground level on the outside of where you see water on your bsmt floor inside. Do not let the water splash up against bricks or bsmt window. You are re-creating a heavy rain and if there is a probelm(crack) with/in your basment wall then you will begin to leak,prolly within 30 minutes or less.Depends on the size of the crack and if its a vertical,step or horizontal crack in nature. If you run the hose for an hour or more full blast and do not see any water on your floor...then turn it off for that day and check the basement floor later,see if there is any water by that time.If not, you prolly do not have a problem with your bsmt wall. Cuz if you did,you would have leaked by running that amount of water against it. Your problem(direct opening) then will be on the outside from ground level up. So next chance ya get,you will want to run the hose against bricks,bsmt windows,small cracks in bsmt window sill or door sill,around door where caulking may be needed,through windows with screens,vents etc... a small section at a time...you may have several things that need to be sealed....but you will begin to leak in bsmt when you find an opening.Now dont forget,if you have water coming up through cracks in your bsmt floor then that is an entirely different problem! Your going to need a sump pump(s) to control the water level under your floor so that the water does not rise up through the cracks and onto your floor. If you have mold or efflorescence on your basement walls then it is there because water/moisture is entering from the outside and you have to stop it from entering b4 you can rid it from your basement.

mentony5

10:08AM | 11/08/04
Member Since: 10/08/04
12 lifetime posts
I have a question ...

A) I'm going to follow your advice and do exactly what you said.

B) Can I apply the tar myself? Where do I get that from? If I apply it myself, do I apply that over the hydraulic cement? And what do I apply the tar with? What do I apply the hydraulic cement with? (paint brush, roller?)

C) Can I apply the visqueen myself? Where do I get that from? How do I apply it? And I do I apply that on top of the tar?

D) What does scrap and wire the wall mean?

Thanks for your help!

Andrea.

LicensedWaterproofer

11:55PM | 11/08/04
Member Since: 03/05/04
301 lifetime posts
hi...what kinda problem do you have,where are you noticing water/mold/efflorescence? Do you have a block/brick or poured bsmt wall? You are going to hand dig to footing? Yes,you can apply"thick grade tar" on the outside of wall After you seal any cracks w/hydraulic cement.You can apply tar by hand,get some rubber gloves.After you tar whatever section of the wall cut the visqueen to fit right over the tar you just applied.The Hydr.cement is applied same way w/rubber gloves,you mix up the amount you need & fill the cracks/openings,then allow it to set/dry.....shouldnt take long.Before you apply these products to wall,wire brush and scrape the walls of any dirt. These products you can get at a builders supply store or at H Depot...be sure to get thick tar! You do not want the liquid tar,its too thin.Thats what is used to damp-proof walls of new homes,its nowhere near enough. I hope you understand that this must be done on the...Outside of walls. Each 5 gallon can of tar costs around $17-20,Hyd cement is about $40 per 5 gal and a roll of visqueen 8`x 100` 6 mil is about $20. The labor of digging and backfilling w/pea-stone may take a toll on you and...be careful. Digging underground is very risky,cave-ins can occur!!! Be careful digging around gas line/electric line etc.

mentony5

09:28AM | 01/03/05
Member Since: 10/08/04
12 lifetime posts
LicensedWaterproofer;

Sorry, I never saw your reply. I don't know where exactly the water is coming from. It's leaking in from the bottom of my basement floor. Actually, I've seen the water coming in from where the wall meets the floor. My husband had originally dug a trench, but he didn't put tar, or the correct cement sealer as I advised him to do after reading your posts, so now, he's digging it back up and following your directions exactly. We are having a problem finding tar though. We wen't to Lowe's and they told us that they have an ashpalt (sp?) sealer that's used for driveways and there's one for the roof. Which should we get? We found hydraulic cement sealer and we found xypex sealer. Do you recommend either of those? Hope to hear from you soon.

Thanks again,

andrea.

BasementWaterproofer

09:31PM | 01/04/05
Member Since: 03/05/04
26 lifetime posts
you have a good hubby there! Now, did he or is he this time digging the trench all the way down to the footing/drain tiles?? This is a must! And he should be careful when working in the trench cuz the'bank' can/might collapse/cave in....ok? After digging/excavating the area he should use a scaper and wire brush to remove any dirt off wall and after he does that he should be able to SEE if there is a vertical,step and-or horizontal crack in the wall, or other direct openings in the wall such as where a gas line enters the wall or maybe under a basement window ledge or where the 1st crs of bricks(i cant R`member if you hv brick Hs) sits on the top of basement wall. Anywhere there is a crack or opening in the wall he wants to use hydraulic cement on those areas. It really should not be too hard to find TAR...Hmmm. Ya really gonna want to hunt the tar down, try H.Depot or a Builders Supply they should have it. And you DO NOT want the"liquid-roll on" tar. Get the Thicker tar, it should be approx. $17-20 a can and he should apply it with his hand with rubber gloves,then cut visqueen/plastic to'fit' directly over the tar...top to bottom of wall. It would be Best to backfill w/pea stone/gravel. There are a bunch of other CRAP products out there other people/companies tell ya to use....bllchtt! Use what works. The "roof" sealer ya mention at bottom of yer post sounds like one to use...it should say on the can'roofing cement'...it is a thick tar if its the correct one..."DeWitts"(sp) makes it..gl & plz let us know result.

BasementWaterproofer

09:47PM | 01/04/05
Member Since: 03/05/04
26 lifetime posts
hey..i dont post in other forums like electrical,roofing,flooring etc cuz i do not do that kinda work. I post and try to help people in waterproofing and foundation work cuz that IS what i do. When you need a roof you call a roofer, you want to talk to only roofers...people who do that work. You dont call a mason or a dentist for that and you certainly dont want advise from anyone other than a roofer, right? So i know most folks mean well but just cant help but wonder why people post on subjects they are not experienced in. This is how myths are carried on. Just something to keep in mind on folks

mentony5

09:06AM | 01/17/05
Member Since: 10/08/04
12 lifetime posts
We are having a hard time ... we live in seattle, so it has been snowing and raining continuously. We've been waiting for a dry spell, but no luck and our basement is wet again! We are trying to make light of it until the rain lets up, another two weeks we've heard. In the mean time, our wet/dry vac has been on for hours.

So, we have not found tar! We are beginning to think that we're really crazy.

I just wanted to know if xypex (concrete waterproofer) is a good one to use.

We don't have a brick house. I am definitely thinking that there's something wrong with our foundation. Can we tar the whole thing?

Thanks again,

andrea.
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