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1958house

06:46PM | 07/11/05
Member Since: 03/19/05
7 lifetime posts
Bvbasement
Hi

Any ideas on how I can fix my leaky basement? Water comes into the basement sometimes after heavy rain only along where the floor and wall of the foundation meet in several areas. Also some came in thru one window this last time. Half of basement is finished but water has loosened the floor tiles and caused some water damage on the paneling, especially where the gas meter and water main come into the house. (Suspect it has happened several times although prev owner "ignorant" of that. Said only happened once and then she got new gutters installed. Inspector didn't seem too concerned when we were buying the house.)

The foundation is cinder block. It has been painted on the unfinished side of the basement-looks like they painted over those bumpy--what are they effluvesence (sp??). Some old cracks in the floor have been repaired. Never get any water thru the cracks.

Have a deck on the back side of house--don't think it leaks there, also a crack running across that wall maybe all the way across to the window. Soil here is very sandy. yard grade is OK and have 3 feet downspouts on gutters. Suggestions??

LicensedWaterproofer

05:34AM | 07/12/05
Member Since: 03/05/04
301 lifetime posts


Sorry ta hear about your situation, I`ve heard this so often it drives me crazy.

First,from what you`ve posted, the Real Reason(s) water in entering is because 1)there are crack(s) in the Bsmt wall which is How `n Where water enters the 'cells' of the block wall 2) the window you described will probably need to be replaced 3)there may also be openings around where the gas line-pipe enters the house,water gets into the block where many lines enter a wall,just like through crack in a wall.

Something you may/may not know about block walls `n that is on all block walls not ALL cracks are visible from the inside of the basement. Meaning...just because you see some cracks does not mean there arent others of ANY size on the outside of the walls, where water-moisture enters. In otherwords, a home can have other hairline cracks and even 1-2" wide cracks on the outside which do not show from the inside in the basement.

And you mention the soil in your area is very sandy which tells me thats the ONLY reason you dont leak on less heavier rains. Because sand is the 2nd best backfill for drainage along basement walls..peastone/gravel is best.

When there are cracks in a basement wall the only way to stop water/moisture from entering through these carcks is from the outside,Not inside. The wall or part of the wall say,where a vertical crack is needs to be hand dig to footing/Dr. tile, haul all soil away, wire brush `n scrape wall of any excess dirt,seal all cracks & other openings(around a gas line etc)with hydraulic cement, then apply a Thick tar over entire area of wall `n then apply 6 mil+ visqueen over the tar and backfill with 100% peastone/gravel to within 3-6 inches of grade,fill remainder w/top soil....will continue.............


LicensedWaterproofer

06:12AM | 07/12/05
Member Since: 03/05/04
301 lifetime posts


....Geez...i have tried `n tried to continue this post(and answer others)...and keep getting booted/told that i have to log in when i`ve already logged in! lolollol...i go with shorter posts. Sry!

See...an Outside method done/backfilled correctly will 1) stop water from entering into the wall through cracks & other Direct openings like around a gas line etc 2)will Lessen lateral/hydrostatic pressure that is agst the outside of walls(peastone-sand backfill)3) since it stops water from entering it will stop-prevent mold,mildew,efflorescence,radon gas from entering/growing

An Inside water-diverting method(j-hammer,drain tile etc) will ONLY divert the water that is entering through unsealed/open cracks etc...under the bsmt floor,thats it. So since it does not stop water from entering the outside of the wall it will not stop-prevent mold,efflorescence,radon gas etc....and it also does Nothing to help lessne pressure that is on the outside of a wall,nothing.


LicensedWaterproofer

06:26AM | 07/12/05
Member Since: 03/05/04
301 lifetime posts
....the Seller was probably told by the Hm Inspector(happens all the time) and is Redundantly stated over `n over but NOT true that..'most,90%, basement leaks-seepage can be solved by raising grade/gutter extensions etc'...and this is just Not True! Yah, i know i know, its stated on every waterproofing website,Most Hi`s & builders will tell ya this,its printed all over the place and even on/in many Gov`t sources BUT it is simply Not correct.

If-When a homeowner has vertical/step/diagonal/horizontal cracks in the Bsmt walls and Other direct openings where water enters on the outside of the house(open mortar joints/caulking needs around doors-windows-where hose for a/c enters/chimney flashing etc)they need to seal/fix all of these openings on the Outside...these are the ways water/moisture is entering the house,is entering the wall and getting onto the floor,this is why mold,efflorescence is on the walls(plumbing fixtures `n humdity level can be a source too)..and that by adding dirt/grading/gutter extensions does Nothing to Seal these openings...Zero!


LicensedWaterproofer

06:38AM | 07/12/05
Member Since: 03/05/04
301 lifetime posts
...sure...these water diversion techniques will...divert SOME water several feet away from the foundation but on heavier rains `n spring thaws water is still going to go into the soil/ground around yer house,its going to accumulate,wick and spread underground.....in All directions underground including back towards the bsmt wall. Including under a driveway/patio...even if the driveway/patio is sloped away,even if you raise your grade,lets say 2' high, the water that will run off that 2' slope is going to go into the ground a few/several/10'/whatever distance away and its going to...accumulate underground and spread in all directions.There is No Underground Bias! There is No slope down there folks.

Hey, what i`m saying is go ahead and raise the grade all ya like,add on 50' downspout extensions and run them into your neighbor`s backyard,thats fine, But if your going to sell a house/Inspect a house and Not disclose leaks/seepage in basement,or as a HI recommend to seller that 90% of the time these water diversion mehtods will fix their problem then you should expect `n deserve to get sued by next homeowner because....you left them with a pre-existing to sale of home seeapge/leak problem that should have been fixed correctly by someone who is Lic/Ins and guarantees it.

LicensedWaterproofer

07:02AM | 07/12/05
Member Since: 03/05/04
301 lifetime posts
...3 ways water/moisture gets into a house and onto a bsmt floor...

1)Above ground level through Direct openings includ`g tuckpointing/caulking needs,around `n through windows/window screens-vents,chimney flashing etc etc....above ground!

2) Below ground level/ below grade through Direct openings in the Basement wall includ`g any cracks,seams and rod holes in poured walls,where any line enters through a wall(gas,electric,water,sprinkler etc)

3)Under the basment floor through & includ`g up through cracks in the bsmt floor...floor drains etc. And for anyone who Only has water coming up through floor cracks and Not from/at/near the Bsmt wall,then they First should find an Exp/Honest plumber who can try and run a snake through the main, both ways, to try `n free up any clog which may have been caused by hairline roots and other debris which then allows water to accumulate and rise up through cracks in the floor.

If a plumber cant solve the problem then you will most likely need a sump pump(S) to..control the water-level(pump out) under the bsmt floor on those heavier rains/spring thaws Before it can rise up through floor cracks etc.

Only other ways a homeowner may notice water in a certain area on their basement floor could be from leaky plumbing fixtures,interior fixtures that may drip onto floor or maybe even yer dog/cat pee`d on floor lolol.

100% of leaks-seepage problems are because of what the reasons just posted, NOT because the grade is pitched toward the house or because yer dog knocked off the downspout extension. Sure...having the grade pitched away will help Divert 'some' water away.Yes,having longer extensions will help Divert 'some' water away from the corner of the house..i`m not arguing that at all. But that isnt why `n how basements leak,that isnt the actual problem and should never be left for an unsuspecting buyer to have to reach into their bank account and pay for.

LicensedWaterproofer

07:22AM | 07/12/05
Member Since: 03/05/04
301 lifetime posts
..if i was you, if you havent been in the house that long, i`d go back on the seller And Hm Inspector. I would take many pictures of..all cracks in the wall(s),pics of any mold,mildew,efflorescence,discolorment of wall,certainly pics of water of the bsmt floor etc!

If the seller did Not put on disclosure statement(i`m NO Lawyer!) mention of any leaks/seepage/cracks in wall etc then i`d most certainly go back `n sue `em for leaving you with an'ongoing problem' that wasnt disclosed at time of sale, that YOU will now have to pay for to fix correctly. Last thing i think anyone in this situation wants is to get screwed/taken/lied to...and not have the money to get the work needed completed and then when you get ready to sell, have to either disclose it and take less for sale of house(cuz work still needs to be done)or...not disclose like what was done to you and take a big risk that next homeowner will notice the problem quicker and nail you with the bill(get sued).

I would get estimates from Lic/Ins honest Bsmt Waterproofing Contractors to what it`ll take to fix yer problem,get a lawyer if the cost is going to be a bit,or file in small claims if cost isnt that much.

I`d also get estimate for replacing/fixing any problem-leaky windows & if you have a brick house...any tuckpointing problems/costs you will incur. Then you will need to clean any mold/mildew/efflorescence AFTER work is done and prolly re-paint so..thats another cost as well. Anyone in your situation should NOT have to go through all this Shtt and Costs simply because a seller-hm inspector didnt take the time/or care to DEFINE what the problem(s) actually is and have it fixed! Screw them & SUE them! Ask for the cost of the inspection back!!!

LicensedWaterproofer

07:45AM | 07/12/05
Member Since: 03/05/04
301 lifetime posts
...water that gets INTO a block wall, into the cells of the wall through cracks & other outside direct openings will almost always stay...Inside the blocks and drop through each course of block until it nears/gets into the bottom course and then it comes out onto the bsmt floor where the floor and wall meet, the isolation joint.

When water/moisture enters the wall through these outside openings it can cause and you will usually(not always) see mold/efflorescence/discolorment/dampness etc on the face of the wall visible in the basement.

How does Radon get into your home???

http://www.epa.gov/radon/pubs/cityguide.html#how does

Got Mold???

http://www.epa.gov/iaq/molds/moldbasics.html


LicensedWaterproofer

07:55AM | 07/12/05
Member Since: 03/05/04
301 lifetime posts


Got Radon???

http://www.epa.gov/radon/pubs/citguide.html#how does

Got Efflorescence???

http://www.continentalcaststone.com/csi/33.html

mentony5

12:57PM | 08/07/05
Member Since: 10/08/04
12 lifetime posts


Having problems finding proper tar, someone recommended atco foundation coating (asphalt emulsion) can we use this?
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