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sjdaud

04:29PM | 11/27/05
Member Since: 11/19/05
5 lifetime posts
Bvbasement
Hi I am not sure if I am clear on the drain tile system. Again, house built 51-52.

Q: I know there are drain tiles outside the house at the footer (at least I think that would have been done with the original build).

My question is: are there also separate and complete drain tiles inside underneath the floor around the perimeter? Did they do that back in the 1950's? I.e., two sets of perimeter tiles, one inside under the basement floor around the perimeter and another complete one outside around the perimeter. That is what the plumber who snaked the drain led me to believe.

BTW, I called Everdry of Toledo. I looked at their system and I do not believe that it will solve my problem. It seems that their system takes care of the top half of the basement walls but that is not where the problem is. i.e., I do NOT have water coming in at the top of the basement, it is at the bottom. They want to put a J=channel 36 inches down, run that out to a dry well and then also dig up the basement floor, put in a perimeter drain (which I believe I already have), run that to 2 or 3- sump pumps, pump it out of the house and down the hill. So, that is not the answer. the salesman was noncomittal when I asked him what could take care of the bottom 36 inches of the basement wall that would still get water.

However, if I have it dug out completely and redone, what is to say that the water does not just STAY underneath the basement floor and erode it or come up through cracks. All that water has to go somewhere and I have a very heavy clay soil with a poor drainage problem due to the fact that my neighbors are higher than me and I get a lot of their run off water from the neighbors on either side and the neighbor in back of me. (Which is why I rarely have to water the lawn and have a fairly green lawn while theirs is brown).

Thanks for your advice. I'm still looking for contractors. The Everdry system would cost $14,000. The complete dig out just for the outside perimeter would come to $25,000 ($185 per linear foot) plus the cost of taking out a tree. They refused to do a hand-dig but wanted to bring a backhoe for the entire digout. The inside system has a ONE year guarantee and the outside system has a 25 year guarantee.

Again, thanks for the advice.


LicensedWaterproofer

09:46PM | 11/27/05
Member Since: 03/05/04
301 lifetime posts
sj,

yes....there 'should' be drain tiles laid around the perimeter of house 'and' under the bsmt floor.

the city in which you live 'most- likely' has a diagram of how the drain tiles are laid under the floor.

ANY INSIDE-System does NOT STOP water-moisture from ENTERING through cracks and OTHER Outside openings.....which is How & Why MOST people GET water into their walls and ONTO the bsmt floor.CALL me if you like, i will explain THOROUGHLY!

SJ, Homeowners need to First, DEFINE how & why they are getting water in the basement....Then take appropriate steps to fix the problem(s). Like i`ve said, most people get water inside because of outside openings that allow water to enter, NOT ALL but Most.

Anytime a homeowner has water entering let`s say, from 1 area like a corner, then thats all they need to fix. Let`s say they see seepage along most of 1 wall, then fix that 1 wall! Sure, when a homeowner wants to finish the basement AND they arent cash-strapped,then maybe they may want to do all 4 walls.

We live in home built in early 50`s too, and had only 1 problem area, 1 crack in block wall which was how & why water got....into the cells of hollow-block `n onto floor. Thats all i waterproofed, thats all i had to waterproof! Sure...i could do all 4 walls but why? There is NO other seepage/leaky/problem area, know what i mean?

Of course,There will ALWAYS be some-amount of water under all bsmt floor, new homes & old, its a basement. The Only Other way water is going to get on the bsmt floor is.... 1) if there are crack(s) in the bsmt floor 2) there is a blockage under the floor which needs to be...freed. And it does NOT matter whether its a new or older home.

When a homeowner has NO water coming from wall area,but does have water coming up through floor crack(s)etc then they should First snake through the Storm Trap, thats is where many blockages are which cause water to accumulate & back up under the floor and rise up through ANY openings in the bsmt floor. When a plumber cant clear blockage for several reasons, then the homeowner will need a sump pump(s) to....control the water level under the bsmt floor, that is a sumps purpose. The bigger the home, the likelihood of needing more than 1 sump. This all has NO bearing on Most homeowners needing a drain tile/dewatering system Under the bsmt floor, thats just a way to soak More money outta the homeowner,it is 'rarely' needed imo.

IF you had any problem under the floor you should be posting that you have water coming up through floor cracks and not from wall area. You should be posting you see the floor being pushed up...heaving from clay/roots/thickness of bsmt floor too thin etc. Some companies use a variety of schemes to scare people into their inside method, i`m not saying any particular company, but think about it.

Any waterprf`g company charging $185 per linear ft in pretty dang high....in my honest opinion. UNLESS the depth of the footing-tiles is MORE than 7 1/2' deep, we charge approx. $80-110 per ft.

Looks like you have about 135', so depending about the depth to footing, we and quite a few others would charge $10,800 to 14,800 and thats hand dug to footing, hauling ALL clay/soil away, sealing any cracks-openings w/hydraulic cement,applying Thick Tar over walls w/6 mil viqueen over the tar and backfilling w/all peastone to within a few inches of grade,top soil rest.

1 year guarantee on Inside? lol, whatever!!


LicensedWaterproofer

10:14PM | 11/27/05
Member Since: 03/05/04
301 lifetime posts


if you or anyone wants to check out any company`s BBB complaints record, go to http://www.search.bbb.org/search.html you need either the company correct name listed at the BBB and/or the ph number. And some companies have 2+ different listings so ya may want to click EACH one as sometimes the BBB will list same company with no complaints on 1 listing and it`ll have a diffrent story on other listing.

and i`m NOT saying to HIRE or Not hire anyone based on BBB complaints But IMO, it sure makes ME wonder when a company has quite a few versus others who`ve been in business just as long-longer and have 0/1 complaint, know what i mean?

sure..a few people in this world will complain about Anything but imo ya cant compare most waterproofing co`s to lets say, Walmart/Sears/Home Depot etc, who service Tens of thousands More people every day compared to waterproofing co`s so they are much more likely to have a higher BBB complaint record,ya know? the BBB is not the be-all-police of business imo, mostly because the BBB gets money from all BBB members, i`m not shtting on `em but again it makes me/others wonder. like i said, call if ya like...i post cuz i care NOT because i`m purposely trying to screw any company, just looking out for the homeowner

sjdaud

05:02PM | 11/28/05
Member Since: 11/19/05
5 lifetime posts
Well, I have one section that is about 25 x 15 that will need to be done now or in the spring. I literally have no mortar in between some blocks along the bottom course and can see the river of water coming through it during a hard or long rain.

However, I also have seepage all along all the other walls as well as some beginning deterioration of the last 2-3 coarses of blocks. Some of the walls have no mortar but the mortar that is out is up higher than the water so I do not get seepage from that.

All in all, I will keep looking for a reputable one that will do what needs to be done and then over time redo the rest. I would like to refinish the basement but realistically that may never happen if I do not get the basement dry.

What I really learned from the last group of contractors is that WHEN a company has as many or more salespeople than actual workers, there is a real problem with timeliness, quality and service.

LicensedWaterproofer

11:42PM | 11/28/05
Member Since: 03/05/04
301 lifetime posts


if you are around the Toledo area, if you want i can come by and give you my honest opinion on your bsmt situation. It`s completely free, i always have my state lic,insurance and many references w/ph numbers when running estimates to show homeowner upon arrival.....up to you, just let me know asap cuz i`d rather Not drive there through a bunch of snow

LicensedWaterproofer

11:58AM | 12/02/05
Member Since: 03/05/04
301 lifetime posts


well sj,

was very nice meeting you, you have a nice place there, just some openings below and above ground. i just beat the snow on way back! stay in touch

LicensedWaterproofer

06:46PM | 12/03/05
Member Since: 03/05/04
301 lifetime posts


Basement Waterproofing Doctor Trevose,PA BBB lists 83 complaints last 36 mth, 19 complaints last 12 mth maybe their system is the best

sjdaud

03:13AM | 12/04/05
Member Since: 11/19/05
5 lifetime posts
I am unable to find you listed on the BBB, perhaps because I do not have your 313 telephone that is your company phone. Please call me or e-mail regarding your 313 telephone.


LicensedWaterproofer

08:27AM | 12/04/05
Member Since: 03/05/04
301 lifetime posts


i`m there kid,lol punch in 313-881-8035 ya gotta go to http://www.search.bbb.org/search.html

sjdaud

08:49AM | 12/04/05
Member Since: 11/19/05
5 lifetime posts
Hi, I finally found you on the BBB, Not one complaint in 36 months, which is all the ****her the BBB goes back.

Good. I looked online regarding plastic polyethylene pipe. It seems that schedule 40 is the minimum required. (everdry was going to use schedule 20). Is going to schedule 80 an overkill for the back wall?

In addition, I understand that tar can waterproof the walls, but there is some thread about gaseous water entering through the tar. Because of the drainage problem in the back (i.e. land slopes toward the house), I am wondering if I should use a membrane. Just asking. I doubt that it would be necessary because unless it rains hard, the basement humidity is low. I judge the humidity level by how long it takes wet pants to dry as I do not dry them in the dryer. Until just recently, they dried faster than I wanted them to - i.e., literally within 12 hours.

BTW, it is very unlikely that I will find anyone who will hand dig. Also, I like to dig at lot. I will be digging that dry well to hold the runoff from the house back at the far end. If time permits, might dig down part way around the house but not until the few days before the basement is scheduled to be done.

Most of all, please address this question as it perplexes me so.

The water drains through the pea stone down to the footing. But then where does it go after that? Just sit in the drain or go down further slowly? Or go under the basement floor?

It is the scientist in my that wants the answers. I like to know how things work.


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