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cyberthink

06:51PM | 05/10/06
Member Since: 05/08/06
11 lifetime posts
Bvbasement
My basement has water leakage problem. The water is coming from cove (where floor meets wall). It's in the entire perimeter of the wall (all 4 walls) (about 100'). One can see dark water spots at the bottom cinder blocks. May be Mold in one of the area on few cinder blocks (towards bottom blocks). Efflorescence spots in lot of blocks. My basement wall height will be about 5-6 ft below ground. There are few vertical cracks, but I understand that are because of settlement. Water is not coming from cracks. It's not coming even anywhere from Floor (as no floor cracks), but it's coming mainly from Wall and floor joints (Cold joint). I already have Flaoting floor (1'' gap between and floor and wall) which leads to Sump pump. Sump pump is working and throwing water continuously.

I did called few Waterproofing companies which suggested me for Inside pressure release system to install. Some use PVC pipes with or without filter cloth surrounding it and some ADS pipe. I do not know which will be good pipe to use. Also most of them use Zoller 0.3 HP pump, but few suggested 0.5 HP Zoller or 0.3 HP Little giant. Can you please suggest whether my problem can be resolved with Internal system.

Someone suggested me to clean the gap (Flaoting floor) with power wash and make the sump pit more deeper and install new pump and power wash the walls to remove Efflorescence and mold and than apply dry lock on the cinder block wall. Also seal the cracks using Hydraulic cement inside and outside and as per him that will solve the problem. He also suggested to put one more sump pump if required on the other end of current pump.

Also please suggest me which is a good/honest company who can do the job right in Central NJ (Metuchen area) for internal drainage system and can resolve my problem.

Let me know if you have any other suggestions/comments.

Thanks for your help.

SM

LicensedWaterproofer

12:22AM | 05/11/06
Member Since: 03/05/04
301 lifetime posts


Many block walls get water into `n through the hollow-block from the OUTSIDE.

Yes, water gets into the block through cracks/other crevices from the outside, it then stays inside the cores/cells of the hollow-blocks and falls through to the BOTTOM blocks, yes....the cold-joint aka cove and comes onto the floor.

So, the fact that you/others see water coming ONTO the bsmt floor at the cold-joint/cove inside the basement, does not necessarily mean there is a problem under the floor. Again, most-not all reasons why water FIRST enters a block wall IS because of cracks `n other openings on the Outside of the block wall.

Many Block walls will NOT show a crack(s) on the Inside but have hairline to 2"++ wide crack(s) on the Outside. These will be vertical,step `n horizontal cracks and often are not visible from the inside of basement, its just the way block walls are/crack.

Water can also get INTO the cells/cores of block walls from 'above ground'...above the wall' openings incl`g openings around basement windows,open mortar joints,loose-cracked-porous bricks,openings around doors `n thresholds and so on. This water can enter hollow-block walls and sometimes show up inside at/near the cove/cold joint.

So the best thing to do is to FIRST define how `n where water is entering before spending one cent!

Anyone, incl`g many Inside Co`s who 'assume' that water entering onto the basement floor along the cove is always due to problem(s) under the floor does NOT know what their talking about and/or, doesn`t care and simply wants to SELL you/others their Inside systems.

Is it possible you have a blockage/problem under the bsmt floor? Sure,yes! Is it also possible you have a problem(s) with water entering the block wall from outside openings and it only comes out onto the floor at cove? Sure,yes!

And, is it possible you have 2 different problems that will require 2 different remedies? Sure,yes! Like i say, first define any/all problems, then you can choose the correct solution(s) and honest/experienced contractor.

Cyber, 'IF' water is entering your block walls from Outside cracks/openings then....any Inside drain tile or baseboard system w/sump will NOT stop/prevent this water from entering the block wall(s) and more mold/efflorescence will grow in-on hollow-block walls.

Radon gas and termites etc also can enter the basement THROUGH these unsealed cracks/openings on outside, again....Inside systems do NOT waterproof/seal these outside cracks etc. Inside systems also do not lessen/relieve lateral `n hydrostatic soil pressure and tree roots that is on the outside of walls and can cause cracks,leaks,bowing and in some cases, collapse of wall(s).

It`s also possible 'IF' your house was built on a spring/high water table area or below sea level that, you`ll need another sump pump to help 'control' the volume of water under the floor that comes w/heavy-long rains, and can accumulate and rise up through ANY floor opening.

IF....you have a storm trap you should first have a plumber try `n snake through it. 'Some homeowners' who get water UP through cracks/openings in FLOOR and along cove will ONLY need to snake under the floor `n free a blockage that is causing the water to accumulate `n rise up through floor cracks or up through crevices along cold joint/cove.

LicensedWaterproofer

12:54AM | 05/11/06
Member Since: 03/05/04
301 lifetime posts


some builders just do NOT care or get the fact that....

....the 1" gap along cove provides easy access for water to come UP onto floor 'IF-WHEN' there is a blockage UNDER the floor. The gap is an...opening, just like cracks are openings which loololol, allow water to enter. It also allow insects to enter and......

radon gas to enter!

How does radon enter a house?

a) cracks in concrete slabs

b) spaces behind brick veneer walls...

c) pores and cracks in concrete blocks

d) FLOOR-WALL joints...hello?

e) exposed soil, as in a sump

f) Weeping Drain tile, if drained to

open-sump

g) mortar joints

h) loose fitting pipe penetrations

i) open tops of block walls....etc etc

http://www.epa.gov/radon/pubs/physic.html#Character

"radon gas can enter a home from the soil through cracks in concrete floors and walls, floor drains, sump pumps, construction joints, and tiny cracks or pores in hollow-block walls"

and to get a handle on MOLD one needs to stop/prevent water entry, NOT allow it to continue to enter, and humidity control

http://extension.missouri.edu/nwregion/ExtNews/April%202006/hes.htm

http://www.missoulanews.com/News/News.asp?no=5625

Scroll down quite a ways to

--Wet Basements--

http://landmarksociety.org/section.html?id=1&uid=1&pageId=7

"be wary of waterproofing companies that recommend interior basement perimeter drains and a sump system.....you`ll still have open water in your basement, thus the possibility of a musty odor and excessive humidity"

...yeah, and mold


cyberthink

03:42AM | 05/11/06
Member Since: 05/08/06
11 lifetime posts
LWP,

can you suggest some good companies in NJ area who can help me with my problem. I just bought this home 2 mths back. This is 41 years old house. We did the radon check before buying the house and the result came normal. It has finished basement, but when I unfinished the basement I noticed this cracks. We also have termite treatment done on the house and it's under warantee.

Pl. let me know how you can help me to resolve this problem as I understand outside excavation / exterior method is very very expensive.

Thanks for your help in advance.

SM

LicensedWaterproofer

04:32AM | 05/11/06
Member Since: 03/05/04
301 lifetime posts


thats what some WANT you to believe YET, many-not all Inside Co`s will charge you as much if not MORE.

yup, happens all the time. Inside Co`s almost always charge $6,000-$15,000++ so, where in the world do anyone in their right mind come up with 'more expensive'? Ya know.

And, Inside systems are much less Labor intensive and Less costly to do, alot LESS in materials/hauling etc YET....they want as much if not more. It`s a crock

Try `n remember that most basement leak due to cracks/openings etc Outside, and so ya have to go outside to seal them correctly which will then stop/prevent water from entering these openings and stop/prevent mold/efflorescence and also stop radon gas and termites from entering as well. Lastly, it lessens/relieves lateral `n hydrostatic soil pressure & tree roots that are against the wall on the outside, cant do this on inside. These pressures can cause cracks,leaks,bowing etc.

I`m not saying they aren`t basements that won`t need sumps etc, there are! This whole selling/pushing of inside systems is just that, its waaaay overblown and made out to be this low-cost, all water-tight solution and its NOT!

Again, first one needs to DEFINE the Problem(s). Most people who have a home built on a spring or below sea level will likely need a sump(s) to control water level under floor but, this doesn`t stop/prevent many other problems with water entry,mold,efflorescence,pressure agst outside walls etc. Never has and never will.

Sorry, dont know any there, keep searching, sometimes the good one`s do NOT need to advertise and certainly don`t need 1/2 and whole page advertisements, who ya think is paying for those EXPENSIVE Yellow Pg, Tv `n radio ads? lool, thats right!


cyberthink

05:49AM | 05/11/06
Member Since: 05/08/06
11 lifetime posts
LWP,

I understand your point.

Can you please suggest how much the Exterior system will cost. My footing is about 5-6 ft below ground. Total linear feet for 3 walls will be about 85-90 feet. the 4th wall is inner wall - connected to Family room.

Also I got quote of about $4000 for internal systems (using PVC or ADS pipes). Which pipes you recommend (PVC or ADS) ?

I sprayed diluted bleach (10 parts water and 1 part Bleach) to kill the mold on the wall. Do you suggest that I should wire brush it out or power wash it out the mold over this week end and put Dehumidifier to control the moisture in my basement. What size/make of Dehumidifier you recommend. My basement area is 600 sq. ft.

You help will be appreciated.

SM


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