What is the appropriate insulation type and installation prepration in this kind of situation? I've had a couple of people tell me that the issue isn't really insulating the exterior walls but the layer between the basement and the floor.
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I am about to begin planning a kitchen remodel (last one was probably in the '40's). We just spent our first winter in the house and the kitchen was very cold. The windows and perhaps a too-small radiator contributed to the problem (both will be replaced), but much of the problem seems to stem from the kitchen's placement. Half of the room is part of an addition. The basement is a walk-out basement and very drafty, especially in the addition/extension, and there is no insulation between the basement and the kitchen floor.
You probably have a group of problems (windows, radiator, floor, etc) all adding together.
I upgraded the insulation under a dining room over a crawlspace. I went from R-11 to R-30 (R-19 was all the unfaced, 15" the store had) and could tell the difference. I could walk across the carpet barefoot and tell where the HVAC ducts prevented adding insulation.
Because I already had faced insulation under my floor, I added unfaced fiberglass batts. If you don't have insulation now, add faced batts with the face up (against the heated floor). You will need wire supports about every 1 to 2 ft. These are about $5 for 100 wires.
Before adding insulation, examine floor closely from the basement. Seal any cracks and gaps to cut down on leaks. I used regular caulk for small cracks and a can of expanding foam (Great Stuff) for larger cracks.
Because heat loss is affected by the temperature difference between the two spaces, a warmer basement would mean a (slightly) warmer kitchen. I would do my best to seal up the basement. Then ground warmth would add a few degrees to the basement temperature. This would help in the kitchen.
I upgraded the insulation under a dining room over a crawlspace. I went from R-11 to R-30 (R-19 was all the unfaced, 15" the store had) and could tell the difference. I could walk across the carpet barefoot and tell where the HVAC ducts prevented adding insulation.
Because I already had faced insulation under my floor, I added unfaced fiberglass batts. If you don't have insulation now, add faced batts with the face up (against the heated floor). You will need wire supports about every 1 to 2 ft. These are about $5 for 100 wires.
Before adding insulation, examine floor closely from the basement. Seal any cracks and gaps to cut down on leaks. I used regular caulk for small cracks and a can of expanding foam (Great Stuff) for larger cracks.
Because heat loss is affected by the temperature difference between the two spaces, a warmer basement would mean a (slightly) warmer kitchen. I would do my best to seal up the basement. Then ground warmth would add a few degrees to the basement temperature. This would help in the kitchen.
