Is there any way you can exchange them for the 'IC class' (in contact) fixtures? There are two basic types, sealed and not sealed. The sealed ones should be used where they go through the living envelope (i.e., into the attic space) and the unsealed can be used within the living envelope (i.e., basement ceiling). They are not that expensive so may be best to change them out now. The 'box' idea may not satisfy your insurance folks in case of a fire.

If you want insulation on top of the fixture, you should do what the other guy said and change it out for a fixture that allows you to place insulation directly on the fixture. Perhaps I do not understand your question, but it just seems like you are playing with fire by gerry-rigging something to place insulation above the fixture that you know cannot have insulation along its sides.

The different ratings account for the materials used and how effectively they dissipate the heat from the lamp. The "IC" class fixtures to which he referred are made of materials that dissipate the heat more efficiently so as to not cause a fire, even if they are tightly insulated. The one you have needs that space to dissipate heat and not cause a fire hazard. These ratings are there for your safety, not just to make some pencil-necked regulator happy and useful.

[This message has been edited by Lawrence (edited September 14, 2002).]

Mine each have a thermal cutoff to prevent overheating. (They are the ones that require 6" space around them.)

We have constructed boxes made of 5/8" thick type "X" fire core drywall for this purpose on several commercial jobs. The 6" clearance should be maintained between the fixture and the drywall box. They passed all inspections here but before using this method I strongly recommend you get approval from the local fire marshal to be certain it does not violate the fire code/building code in your area.

Glenn

I would check out a product called "Insul-lite". Should be exactly what you are looking for.

www.insulationmaterials.com