Just installed one on a metal gate at our shop...sure beats getting out in the rain to unlock the gate.

One thing that you need to make sure of is that your measurements are dead on as there is very little adjustment in the swing arm.

A wooden gate of this size will be quite heavy...make sure that your hindge post is at least 8' tall so that you can cable the free end of the gate for support.

Thanks DH.

You didn't mention which gate opener you used on your metal gate. Could you let me know which one and why? (Granted, your application is different from mine, but maybe they have a "residental" model I could use.)

I'm currently looking at the GTO/PRO 1000 and I did see a European one, but the specifications for it weren't as clear to me as this one.

Thanks for your help, I really appreciate it.

Just a comment. A 10'6" x 5' wooden gate that's supported only on one end will take some serious design work to avoid sagging. You might want to consider metal.

Thanks rpxplx,

As I am planning to do the work myself, was thinking about the sagging issue if I go with an all-wood gate and the kind of hinge support I'd need to build. So I've come up with an alternative.

I'm not sure if this is going to work but I was planning to use a 8" diameter cylinder form sunk approx 4', with a chain link steel post into the center and fill the form with Quickrete. Then I'd use a steel chainlink gate frame and attach to that, 1x6x5 planks to get the look of wood on the outside, and the strength of steel in the gate frame. I'm thinking if I still get some sag, I could put some kind of caster on the gate end that would roll on the driveway.

What do you think? Folly or possible? Any feedback is GREATLY appreciated.

I belive the opener was a mighty mule? by GTO out of florida(?)
The wheel on the free end may create to much drag for the opener to work.
If your hindge post is at least 8' above the ground, install an eye bolt at the top and on the free end of the gate. Then use 1/8" cable and a turn buckle to support the free end.

Thanks DH,

I thought about the GTO Mighty Mule but was leaning to the GTO/PRO1000 because of the weight issue of an all-wood gate.

Thanks for the advice on the 8' hinge post. I'm on a residential street, and the Hinge post would probably be on my neighbor's side. I'm not sure if the 8' post will go over too well with them...I guess I'll need to run it by them. What's that saying.."Good fences make good neighbors"?

Thanks again for the advice.

We've used the GTO Mighty Mule on metal tube gates (farm type). Was a good unit and would use again at the current place if needed.

Bill

Wally.........For the gate installation at fancy homes drill the soil and install 8" diameter pipe as a gate post......As deep as the post is high........to support Metal gates that are much lighter than your 'beast'..............And your "chainlink gate frame" is bolted together as squeeze clamps and won't hold the load................

Before committing to this project.......why not check with a custom metal gate man / welding fabrication shop for the price and availability of a welded-steel gate frame to which you add your wood skin..........