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aklutz

05:37AM | 05/14/08
Member Since: 05/13/08
4 lifetime posts
Bvwindows
I thought my entry door was metal- clad wood, but when I drilled a pilot hole to attach a shade bracket, the drill bit went right through the metal to an empty space. What do I use to attach the brackets to hold a pleated, bottom up/top down shade on the large window in the door? I was thinking of self tapping metal screws. Would they work? Thanks in advance for any help you can give.

doug seibert

06:12AM | 05/14/08
Member Since: 08/10/02
842 lifetime posts
Sheetmetal screws would hold for only a short time......

Check out a Blind Nut.....(looks like a pop-rivet....often called by the brand name NutSert).......

Ace hardware has them in the cardboard drawers.....the fastener expands and depends on an intimate contact around the entire hole for its strength......it remains in the door .....you supply a standard machine thread fastener

You Re-drill your hole......insert the Blind-Nut......and compress/crimp the INSIDE-the-door nut with a screw/tool

Remove the tool and reinstall the bracket ......

Here's an animation.....

http://www.enfasco.com/frame4.htm

"......measure Once.....cut Twice....

throw that one away and cut a new one...."

aklutz

01:07PM | 05/14/08
Member Since: 05/13/08
4 lifetime posts
Thank you so much. I have a couple more questions, please. Do I buy the piece that fits into my power drill at the hardware store also? Do they come in standard width screw sizes? I have #8 - 1+1/4" screws I was planning to use. Can I buy the pieces to fit that size? I guess you can tell I'm a real novice, I truly appreciate your assistance.

doug seibert

04:45PM | 05/14/08
Member Since: 08/10/02
842 lifetime posts
Of course you could buy a kit with all the tooling necessary.......

Here's a link to an #8-32 kit with setting tool......

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NUTSERTS-NUTSERT-RIVNUT-INSERTS-8-32-RIVNUTS-ADAPTER_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638Q2em118Q2el1247QQcategoryZ63702QQihZ007QQitemZ4528575119QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V

But like you noticed......a drill/driver equiped with a threaded stud and a tight fitting washer will expand the fitting....

Make a practice run or two on a tin can....

"......measure Once.....cut Twice....

throw that one away and cut a new one...."

aklutz

04:00AM | 05/15/08
Member Since: 05/13/08
4 lifetime posts
Thank you very much for your help and your patience. I will visit my local Ace Hardware ASAP. I don't understand your reference to a tight fitting washer, as I didn't see a washer in either the animation or the picture you sent of the kit, so I hope the guys at the hardware store can enlighten me. I'll also see what they recommend I buy to insure that I don't ruin my door. And I will practice on a tin can first - great suggestion. Thanx again.

doug seibert

04:16AM | 05/15/08
Member Since: 08/10/02
842 lifetime posts
If you look at the installation tool in the ebay link you'll see a flat surface at the end of the treads....

this is the working zone.....the contact area that "defines" the blind nut........a three jaw chuck may tend to crush the small edge on the blind nut.....

a smooth flat washer will separate the nut from the drill/driver..... allowing a smooth install without deforming the sheetmetal or the nut......

"......measure Once.....cut Twice....

throw that one away and cut a new one...."

JohnTaylor

08:10AM | 06/23/11
Member Since: 06/23/11
1 lifetime posts
I have the same metal door but has the foam or poly insulation core. Will using a rivnut displace the foam enough to work?
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