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wirespider01

04:32PM | 03/21/04
Member Since: 03/20/04
3 lifetime posts
Bvelectrical
Its model# ADE20N3V. (ADMIRAL)

The blower assembely is working fine and the duct work is clean (checked it from the inside of the door all the way outside). the thermal fuse has blowed 3 times now.

I have replaced the High limit switch along with Thermal Fuse (as it states to do in fuse pack) every time. Although im not sure there is anything wrong at all with the high limit switch but it claims it should open before the fuse blows.

Anyhow it has 2 thermostats down at the bottom of the dryer that sensers the inside of the blower housing.

It gets to got to touch first down around the outside of the bottom where the blower is located (which is working fine) then the top gets hot and *POP* goes the thermal fuse.

Im guessing that one of the 2 thermostats on the blower housing is the lower limit switch, not sure what the other one is.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thank You.

Wade.


Jim D

12:05AM | 03/22/04
Member Since: 01/06/01
345 lifetime posts
Wirespider01 - hi, I haven't looked up the schematics on your dryer. Hopefully, your unit has them on the rear side or inside the unit on the back cover. The second thermostat should be the one that controls the heater coil. It uses the switch setting you choose (e.g., permanent press, air dry, high heat, etc.) to control when the heater coil will be on.

I'd recommend checking the heater coil to ensure it's not covered with lint or shorting out against the housing it's contained in. That housing is probably connected to the blower moter assembly. If it checks out okay, then I'd suggest replacing the thermostat that controls the heating coil.

Thermostats can go into a "runaway" mode where they won't cut off when they reach their upper limit. It's possible the one controlling your heater coil is doing that, keeping the electricity going to the heater coil even though the upper limit switch is trying to shut it off. The thermal fuse saves your machine from further damage. (I learned about "runaway" thermostats while repairing a Jacuzzi in the house I'm renting...)

Dan O will probably have much better info that I've provided. He always posts his website in his replies - if you haven't checked his site out, you should. You may find some great troubleshooting advice as well as the schematic for your machine. Good luck! Jim D/Heathsville, VA

DanO

08:16AM | 03/22/04
Member Since: 11/11/02
2274 lifetime posts
** the duct work is clean (checked it from the inside of the door all the way outside). the thermal fuse has blowed 3 times now. **

Poor air flow is the most common cause of blown thermal fuses/protectors. Not only does the vent need to be absolutely clear but it can not exceed the manufacturer's recommended length for the type or material it is made from.

You can read about dryer venting at the following link:

LINK > http://www.appliance411.com/links/jump.cgi?ID=778

** The blower assembely is working fine **

The blower fan used on that model is known to wear around its center hub which can cause slipping on the motor shaft leading to poor air flow. Just because *some* air is blowing out of the dryer and vent, doesn't mean it's the proper amount.

** It gets [too hot] to touch first down around the outside of the bottom where the blower is located (which is working fine) **

That usually a sure sign of an air flow problem. It is isn't caused by a poorly installed vent or defective blower fan, the seals of the drum and the cycling thermostat(s) may need to be looked into.

JMO

Dan O.

http://www.Appliance411.com/?ref411=Admiral+dryer

The Appliance Information Site

=Ð~~~~~~


wirespider01

08:01PM | 03/22/04
Member Since: 03/20/04
3 lifetime posts
The blower was changed, then a clamp was put around it to help it from loosening again. These fans where made wrong in the first place. These models had half shafts on the motor and they use a universal split blower wheel. The first time the thermal fuse blew was definitely because of the blower wheel, but since I put the new one on I can hold the back of the motor, or the drum if the belt is on and try to spin it (the drum or motor) using the blower wheel and they wont budge. So I know it’s tight. The vent distance is only 2 feet to the outside with metal ductwork used. I have a vacuum that went inside the door, into the blower housing and out through the ductwork. The venting is 100% clean. I ran it the last time with the top up. The heating coils in the back remained ON and Red even know the air in the blower housing and drum was getting way to hot. I hope this little more information can help you narrow my problem down for me.

Thank you!


DanO

10:05AM | 03/23/04
Member Since: 11/11/02
2274 lifetime posts
** These fans where made wrong in the first place. ... blower was changed **

With the proper replacement for that model, the same width and diameter?

Installed on the proper place on the motor shaft? Too far forward or back can reduce its effectiveness.

** The vent distance is only 2 feet to the outside with metal ductwork used. **

Good.

** The heating coils in the back remained ON and Red even know the air in the blower housing and drum was getting way to hot. **

It still sounds like poor air flow to me.

Have you checked to make sure the drum is sealing properly and also that the dryer front panel is sealing to the internal ducting? Also that the lint filter is installed properly and not plugged and that the drum support roller/slides are not worn and allowing the drum to sit too low possibly causing the drum seals to be out of alignment?

If all those are definitely Ok, checking the temperature at the cycling thermostats might be required to determine if they are operating properly.

Dan O.

http://www.Appliance411.com/?ref411=Admiral+dryer

The Appliance Information Site

=Ð~~~~~~


Anonymous

04:35PM | 03/23/04
These 2 thermostats are located on the blower housing in the front but sensor the inside of the housing.

Dont know if this helps but with the front off the heating elements will turn on for just a couple of seconds then turn off and stay off (while motor and blower still runs). With the door on, the heating coils stay on.

the door hole for the venting seems to be seating good against the gasket located on the blower housing, its leaving a good indent in it.

I am a residential electrician but the only thing i know to do is to test all the thermostats and fuse for continuity and all of them passed. I know theres more that can be tested on them, just have never fooled around with a dryer that much, this is my mothers dryer.

Ya, the blower is up to specs i have already checked that against the maytag oem part fot this admiral the other day. Plus it is the the oem part from maytag for this admiral.

Also before i posted on this board i put my ball cap close to the blower and at about 2 inches away it sucked it in tight up against the blower housing.

With those 2 thermostats down on the blower housing, why wouldnt one of them shut the coils off when it gets to hot down there? Unless these are the cycling thermostats you speak of.

Thanks for your help by the way :-)

wirespider01

05:07PM | 03/23/04
Member Since: 03/20/04
3 lifetime posts
these 2 are located down on the blower housing and the sensor the inside of it.

Ya, did check the specs on blower the other day, they matched up against maytags oem part for this admiral, plus I replaced it with the oem part.

dont know if this will help out any but with the front off the heating coil will come on for a few seconds than go off and stay off while the drum and blower still run.

was wonderning what these 2 thermostats jobs are. i would think that one of these 2 is what is called the lower limit (not sure what that does) and no clue what the other one is.

I also would think that one of these 2 should shut the coils down when the blower housing gets to hot but then again what i think doesnt matter thats why im here ;-)

I am a residential electrician but the only thing i know to do is check for continuity and all of them pass (the high limit switch, the thermal fuse thats in there now, and the 2 thermostats in question on the blower housing) im sure there is more ways these can be tested but i have never fooled with a dryer. It is my mothers dryer and since she has bought the blower wheel, new drum belt and 3 thermo fuse packets at 24 bucks a pop shes pretty stubborn about keeping it.

The vent hole out of the door seems to be sealing good against the blower housing since it leves a good indent in the gasket on the blower housing.

Before i posted on this board I put my ball cap about 2 inches away from the blower and it sucked it in against the blower housing tight as i was curious also to a venting problem.

Thanks Bud, for all your help with this by the way. :-)

Shue

03:54PM | 04/04/04
Member Since: 05/18/02
30 lifetime posts
Have a few things here for ya. Thermal fuses blow for 1 reason. Heat being radiated out of heater box. If air is not passing thru heater to cool off element then heat radiates outward to trip thermal fuse. If vent is fine (test it by trying to dry loads with vent off). Possible the loads are too big. Clothes will block air outlet by lint screen blocking air flow. Other item that can cause problem is shorted heating element. If element coil is broken and laying on heater box it will allow electricity to pass thru heater to ground keeping heater on all the time.

BV004797

09:54AM | 06/25/14
Keeps Blowing Fuse 1/2 way during drying cycle? Any ideas?

Thanks a bunch, I have blown fuse after fuse and is getting very tiresome and I know soon to be a fire...

tim`
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