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DanO

08:46PM | 11/27/05
Member Since: 11/11/02
2271 lifetime posts
** how you went about replacing the igniter on the ge xl44? **

Depending on exactly which GE XL44 range model you have, it looks like the oven bottom panel is removable to access the oven burner and ignitor.

You can see an exploded part view of the range model that was posted above at the following link:

- G.E. JGBP28BEA3AD Exploded Parts View

LINK > http://www.appliance411.com/data.php?psm=JGBP28BEA3AD

JFYI

Dan O.

www.Appliance411.com/?ref411=GE+Range

The Appliance Information Site

=D~~~~~~

NotMechanicallyInclined

05:23PM | 04/06/06
Member Since: 04/05/06
1 lifetime posts
Hullo, I am having much the same problem as others here.

My symptoms include:

- Top burners work with no visible problems

- Oven was not heating 24 hours ago, but was turning on

- Oven is currently not lighting, and I don't smell any gas as I normally do on startup.

I checked the gas shut off valve as per the owners manual and found nothing wrong with it.

This is a GE XL44 Self-Cleaning Gas Range, model # as follows:

JGBP26WEA5WW

Any help on this would be very much appreciated.

Thanks,

NotMech

DanO

08:33PM | 04/06/06
Member Since: 11/11/02
2271 lifetime posts
** I checked the gas shut off valve and found nothing wrong with it.**

If it was turned off, no gas burners on the appliance would work *at all*. If any are working, that is not the problem.

** My symptoms... **

We need actual observations *of the ignition system's operation* in order to suggest possible causes. The system used on your range is a 'hot surface' ignition system whose operation is described at the following link:

Understanding Gas Oven Ignition Systems

LINK > http://www.appliance411.com/links/jump.cgi?ID=823

If the ignitor IS glowing when the oven is turned on but the oven is just not lighting, chances are ~75-85% that the oven ignitor itself is just defective. And yes, an ignitor can glow and still be defective.

- GE JGBP26WEA5WW Bake & Broil Ignitor

LINK > http://www.appliance411.com/data.php?rc=1990

If the ignitor is NOT glowing, someone would need to trace the electrical system to it to see where the power stops. An electrically open ignitor or oven valve could be the problem or a defective oven control.

JFYI

Dan O.

www.Appliance411.com/parts/?ref411=GE+Range

The Appliance Information Site

=D~~~~~~

celerystalk12

09:43AM | 12/16/06
Member Since: 12/15/06
1 lifetime posts
relacement igniter has no terminal ends.which wire goes where? Does it matter?

DanO

10:17AM | 12/16/06
Member Since: 11/11/02
2271 lifetime posts
** which wire goes where? Does it matter? **

No, there is no polarity on the ignitor circuit.

Dan O.

www.Appliance411.com/parts/?ref411=GE+Range

The Appliance Information Site

=D~~~~~~

jake12

03:41PM | 12/21/06
Member Since: 12/20/06
4 lifetime posts
I have a GE XL44 Self-Cleaning Oven (Model JGBP30BEW1WH ) and its oven stopped working, the oven igniter does NOT glow at all, however the burners and the broiler are just fine but only the oven stopped working.

I checked the voltage of the wires connected to the igniter and it's about 115V which seems to be correct.

I opened the Igniter and connected it directly to 120V power and it did NOT glow.

I hope it wasn't a bad idea :)

Do you think if the Igniter is bad

or some thing else I should check?

Thanks

Jake

DanO

10:06PM | 12/21/06
Member Since: 11/11/02
2271 lifetime posts
** the oven igniter does NOT glow at all, however the burners and the broiler are just fine **

Since the only thing in common with all those systems is the gas flow and not the ignition system, one operating and the other(s) not should have no bearing on each other.

** I opened the Igniter **

You "opened" the ignitor???

** connected it directly to 120V power and it did NOT glow. I hope it wasn't a bad idea **

It is not designed to be connected to power like that. It is designed to be connected in series with the oven valve.

** I checked the voltage of the wires connected to the igniter... Do you think the Igniter is bad or some thing else I should check? **

I would think that should mean the control system is functioning. Only continuity tests (see the following link) of the individual components and an amperage test of the circuit while in use will help to narrow the problem further.

- How do I test for continuity?
LINK > http://www.appliance411.com/links/jump.cgi?ID=817

You can read how the most common gas oven ignition systems are suppose to operate at the link I previously supplied titled "Understanding Gas Oven Ignition Systems". The system used on your model (and the other range models listed in this message thread) is the 'Hot Surface (glow ignitor) Ignition System'.

You can see the replacement ignitor for both the bake and broil burner for your model at this link:

- GE JGBP30BEW1WH Bake & Broil Ignitor
LINK > http://www.appliance411.com/data.php?rc=1990

JFYI

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com/parts/?ref411=GE+Range
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~

jake12

09:16AM | 12/22/06
Member Since: 12/20/06
4 lifetime posts
*** You "opened" the ignitor???

No, I meant I disconnected it from the oven.

Testing the continuity of the Igniter:

- the continuity test (diod test) shows no continuity (no beep from multimeter and it shows 1)

- the resistance test shows about 9.5 MegOhm

do you think the Igniter is bad?

*** It is not designed to be connected to power like that. It is designed to be connected in series with the oven valve.

since it has an impedance and it works with 120V AC, I thought if I connect it directly to the same voltage (120V AC) it should glow, but as you are saying it may not be true.

Thanks for your help

jake12

09:22AM | 12/22/06
Member Since: 12/20/06
4 lifetime posts
just to add to the previous post:

I did also check the amperage as well and it reads 0 amp (no current flows)

thanks again
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