** the continuity test (diode test) shows no continuity (no beep from multimeter and it shows 1)... the resistance test shows about 9.5 MegOhm **
Those seem to be to contradictory statements. NO continuity would be infinite resistance. ANY resistance would mean continuity.
If the ignitor has infinite resistance (aka no continuity), it is defective and needs to be replaced.
** I did also check the amperage as well and it reads 0 amp **
No current can flow through an open circuit. Someone just needs to isolate where that opening in the circuit is.
JFYI
Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com/parts/?ref411=GE+Range
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Thank you very much for your help.
I replaced the igniter and it works properly now.
as mentioned in my previous post the electrical resistance of the bad igniter was about 9.5 MegOhm which seems really high
and for the new igniter it's about 450 Ohm.
Cheers,
Jake
I replaced the igniter and it works properly now.
as mentioned in my previous post the electrical resistance of the bad igniter was about 9.5 MegOhm which seems really high
and for the new igniter it's about 450 Ohm.
Cheers,
Jake
** I replaced the igniter and it works properly now. **
Glad to hear it, thanks for the follow up.
Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com/parts/?ref411=GE+Range
The Appliance Information Site
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Glad to hear it, thanks for the follow up.
Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com/parts/?ref411=GE+Range
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~
I have a JGBP35WEV2WW GE oven and the oven ignitor is bad and I'm trying to replace it. The problem is the 2 screws that attach the igniter to the burner are on the under side of the burner. The angle and space are not enough for a wrench or socket.
It appears I need to remove the burner itself. Is this what I need to do? I can't access underneath from the broiler area because there are several panels that would have to come out and it looks like that would require remove of the burner as well.
There appears to be a large lock not holding the burner plate on.
Jeff M
It appears I need to remove the burner itself. Is this what I need to do? I can't access underneath from the broiler area because there are several panels that would have to come out and it looks like that would require remove of the burner as well.
There appears to be a large lock not holding the burner plate on.
Jeff M
** It appears I need to remove the burner itself. Is this what I need to do? **
That may be a possibility. I have no personal knowledge of your exact model to know how it was assembled. Sorry.
Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com/parts/?ref411=GE+Range
The Appliance Information Site
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That may be a possibility. I have no personal knowledge of your exact model to know how it was assembled. Sorry.
Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com/parts/?ref411=GE+Range
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~
I just pulled the oven igniter on my XL44 gas range. Here's how I did it:
1. Take off the oven door by just pulling up - this makes the project much easier.
2. Remove the oven floor - unscrew the two screws in the back and pull up at the back.
3. Remove the flame spreader over the burner - I believe it's just one screw in the front.
4. Loosen the burner bar by taking out one screw in the front. You can't remove it because of the bracket over it. I tried to remove the bracket by undoing the nut in the back of the bottom drawer, but it was too tight.
5. Here's the hard part: take off the igniter by unscrewing the two mounting screws. These are on the bottom, and it's not real easy. To do so, use a small 1/4 inch box/open-end wrench. Mine came from Sears. Start with the screw closest to you. use your fingers to hold the box part on the screw. You can only turn a few degrees at a time, but it will come. Now do the back screw. As soon as you get it a bit loose, you can rotate the igniter to improve access to the screw.
6. The connections are in the back of the bottom drawer, not hard to get to. My igniter was attached by two ceramic wire nuts - perhaps it had already been replaced.
7. When replacing the igniter(WB2X9154)
polarity is not important - it's just like a switch.
1. Take off the oven door by just pulling up - this makes the project much easier.
2. Remove the oven floor - unscrew the two screws in the back and pull up at the back.
3. Remove the flame spreader over the burner - I believe it's just one screw in the front.
4. Loosen the burner bar by taking out one screw in the front. You can't remove it because of the bracket over it. I tried to remove the bracket by undoing the nut in the back of the bottom drawer, but it was too tight.
5. Here's the hard part: take off the igniter by unscrewing the two mounting screws. These are on the bottom, and it's not real easy. To do so, use a small 1/4 inch box/open-end wrench. Mine came from Sears. Start with the screw closest to you. use your fingers to hold the box part on the screw. You can only turn a few degrees at a time, but it will come. Now do the back screw. As soon as you get it a bit loose, you can rotate the igniter to improve access to the screw.
6. The connections are in the back of the bottom drawer, not hard to get to. My igniter was attached by two ceramic wire nuts - perhaps it had already been replaced.
7. When replacing the igniter(WB2X9154)
polarity is not important - it's just like a switch.
I too have the same problem and the same observations. [And the same model numbers etc]
IF a person didnt use the broiler, since it uses the same ignitor, couldnt one remove the ignitor from the broiler and put it in the oven position instead. [seems like it is reasonable, if for no other reason than troubleshooting.]
Thanks to ALL. First time here, and it appears this is EXACTLY my problem.
IF a person didnt use the broiler, since it uses the same ignitor, couldnt one remove the ignitor from the broiler and put it in the oven position instead. [seems like it is reasonable, if for no other reason than troubleshooting.]
Thanks to ALL. First time here, and it appears this is EXACTLY my problem.
"IF a person didnt use the broiler, since it uses the same ignitor, couldnt one remove the ignitor from the broiler and put it in the oven position instead. [seems like it is reasonable, if for no other reason than troubleshooting.]"
yes they do it all the time.
yes they do it all the time.
** IF a person didn't use the broiler, since it uses the same ignitor **
Many models do not have separate bake and broil ignitors and on the oven models that do, those ignitors are not always the same.
Even their wiring plugs can be different requiring cutting and splicing of wires (NO *plastic* marettes to melt please).
They should be compared before attempting to swap them.
* The filaments of an ignitor are VERY brittle and could easily be damaged by rough handling. Be very careful handling them. *
JMO
Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com/parts/?ref411=GE+Range
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~
Many models do not have separate bake and broil ignitors and on the oven models that do, those ignitors are not always the same.
Even their wiring plugs can be different requiring cutting and splicing of wires (NO *plastic* marettes to melt please).
They should be compared before attempting to swap them.
* The filaments of an ignitor are VERY brittle and could easily be damaged by rough handling. Be very careful handling them. *
JMO
Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com/parts/?ref411=GE+Range
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~
