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HandyBob

05:27PM | 01/31/05
Member Since: 01/30/05
24 lifetime posts
Bvelectrical
I have a Kenmore 80 Series Washer that I was given nearly new. I think it had light use and is only 5 or so years old. After the normal agitation cycle, instead of spinning something jams and the lights dim. This is an intermittent problem. Some times it does this sometimes no. The motor is direct coupled. I checked the coupling and it is o.k. I can't seem to figure out how these new washers work. The old ones shifted from agitation to spin with a wagger and a solenoid. Could someone explain how this one works? Is it a mechanical shift only or with electrical assist? Is something jamming in the gear case? The motor seems to agitate fine. It's just the spin cycle. Thanks!

appliguy

09:30AM | 02/01/05
Member Since: 07/23/04
491 lifetime posts
Hi,

**Kenmore 80 Series Washer**

Cute names, but not a model#

http://www.applianceaid.com/model.html

Some model# helps.

**After the normal agitation cycle, instead of spinning something jams and the lights dim. This is an intermittent problem**

Intermittant problems are the worst! You almost wish it would break and stay broken so you can check it properly.

**The motor is direct coupled. Could someone explain how this one works?**

Somewhat...

http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=153&N=188

Whirlpool, Kenmore Direct drive washer repair manual

The washer motor runs in one direction to agitate. The motor stops and runs in the other/opposite direction for drain outs and spinning.

*Most* ( but not all ) direct drive washers will predrain the water out and the motor stops/pauses for a few seconds to allow the tranmission/gearbox to set up for spin and the motor starts back up in the same direction and then drains and spins at the same time.

jeff.

Appliance Repair Aid

http://www.applianceaid.com/

HandyBob

02:11PM | 02/15/05
Member Since: 01/30/05
24 lifetime posts
I'd like to add to my original post for the sake of anyone else who is having this same problem. The washer would not pump out the water before spin, going immediately into spin and overloading the motor. Normal operation is... agitation/pause motor/reverse direction of motor/pump water(trans in neutral)/pause motor/mechanically engage spin gear/ spin. I correctly diagnosed the problem as within the gearcase. It seems there is something called a "neutral drain assembly" that is prone to failure. It can be purchased for less than $20 dollars but requires disassembling the gearcase. Also, most parts sites only show the entire gearcase for sale. ($150+) You have to enter part #388253 to purchase it. This is not a job for a novice. It requires snap ring removers and several hours time. I think someone with average mechanical aptitude can replace the gearcase, however. It helps a great deal to have the service manual. www.pcappliancerepair.com had the best price. ($125+) Good luck!

HandyBob

01:41PM | 02/23/05
Member Since: 01/30/05
24 lifetime posts
Oops! Looks like I didn't fix the machine after all. The intermittent nature of the problem fooled me again. Neither the gearcase, motor or motor switch is causing the spin defect. (I replaced them.) After agitation and drain cycle, the motor slows, drawing so much current as to heat the plug and line cord. There is almost no spin or pumping of water, accompanied by a clicking sound as the basket tries to pick up speed. The click, I think is caused by the centrifugal switch. It is not the clutch, as I cleaned and inspected it. It is not the drum brake as this also works perfectly. Nothing is impeding the basket which turns freely. The only things left, in my view, are the motor capacitor, something intermittently jamming the pump and thus the motor, or a problem with the electrical supply itself. If I ever solve this problem I promise to post yet again. Thanks to all who offered help!

DanO

05:09PM | 02/23/05
Member Since: 11/11/02
2271 lifetime posts
I don't know which machine you have but if it's a Whirlpool direct drive design, some of those have had problems with the speed selector switch or timer attempting to energize 2 motor speeds at the same time.

Dan O.

www.Appliance411.com/?ref411=Kenmore+Washer

The Appliance Information Site

=D~~~~~~

DanO

05:16PM | 02/23/05
Member Since: 11/11/02
2271 lifetime posts
Sorry, I didn't notice you posted the machine's model number 110.28802890 in one of your message titles.

That model doesn't look to have a separate speed selector switch so if the cause is multiple motor speeds being energized at the same time, the timer is likely responsible. :(

Kenmore Washer Timer # 3949210

LINK > http://tinyurl.com/4gyvf

JFYI

Dan O.

www.Appliance411.com/?ref411=Kenmore+Washer

The Appliance Information Site

=D~~~~~~

HandyBob

05:22PM | 02/23/05
Member Since: 01/30/05
24 lifetime posts
Yes, sounds as if that may be the cause. I didn't suspect the timer because the problem occurs no matter what cycle perm.pres/normal/heavy duty it's on. I figured that the contacts on ALL of them couldn't have worn. The new motor came with a main switch so it's doubful that is defective.

appliguy

02:36AM | 02/24/05
Member Since: 07/23/04
491 lifetime posts
Hi,

Many timers can have the outer cover removed to inspect inside to check for any blackened/burnt contacts...

http://www.applianceaid.com/direct.html#burnt_timer

...then you might see what Dan is talking about :)

jeff.

Appliance Repair Aid

http://www.applianceaid.com/

HandyBob

11:26AM | 02/24/05
Member Since: 01/30/05
24 lifetime posts
Thanks, Jeff. The dern thing is working now so I'll wait and see before doing anything else. The only problem is that I don't trust it to run unattended. I was planning on splicing some wires onto the motor and running a dynamic test. You really don't appreciate a washer until they need fixing!

HandyBob

04:08PM | 03/22/05
Member Since: 01/30/05
24 lifetime posts
As a follow up to this thread, the problem seems to have been fixed. I believe it was caused by the clutch becoming gummed up. This prevented the usual slip necessary for the motor to gain speed under load. I removed the clutch assembly and cleaned a built-up, rubbery, residue on the pads with 200 grit wet/dry sandpaper. I then sprayed disc brake cleaner on the entire assembly. I also greased and oiled all the moving parts on the brake. (Taking care not to contaminate the contact surface of the brake or clutch.) It took one cycle for all the parts to seat properly. I have not had a recurrence of the problem since, so I feel the clutch was the likely problem. (It is possible to buy the entire assembly instead of cleaning it.)
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