It's a model: JGSP31GEP4WG
I posted a while ago about this problem. I only recently had time to follow some of the suggestions. I took out one of the ignitors and tested its continuity. It's giving me 314 Ohms on the meter. The PDF you pointed me to said that it should be 50-150 but that the value didn't matter as long as it wasn't open or shorted. I don't know if 314 constitutes "open" or not.
The other thing I checked was that the wires that go to the ignitor get power. I hooked up the meter to the wires, closed the oven door switch and turned it to bake 350. The meter reads a tiny voltage for a second and then there's a click and it goes back to zero.
Any help appreciated. My original post is here:
http://www.bobvila.com/BBS/Appliances/2031/2031/tree-page1.html
- Bryan
COMMUNITY FORUM
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- GE Gas Range Ignitor trouble
** The PDF you pointed me to said that it should be 50-150 but that the value didn't matter as long as it wasn't open or shorted. I don't know if 314 constitutes "open" or not. **
"Open" is infinite resistance (ie. NO continuity at all).
If the oven ignitor is not even glowing and both the ignitor and oven gas valve have some continuity, the problem has got to be in the control system. You can read about how various gas oven ignition systems work at this link:
- Understanding Gas Oven Ignition Systems
LINK > http://www.appliance411.com/links/jump.cgi?ID=823
** I posted a while ago about this problem. **
If you had continued replying to that original message, all the discussions on this same topic would be kept together. I'll see if there's anything I can do to can get them 'stitched' back together so they can be followed easier.
Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com/?ref411=+GE+Range
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~
"Open" is infinite resistance (ie. NO continuity at all).
If the oven ignitor is not even glowing and both the ignitor and oven gas valve have some continuity, the problem has got to be in the control system. You can read about how various gas oven ignition systems work at this link:
- Understanding Gas Oven Ignition Systems
LINK > http://www.appliance411.com/links/jump.cgi?ID=823
** I posted a while ago about this problem. **
If you had continued replying to that original message, all the discussions on this same topic would be kept together. I'll see if there's anything I can do to can get them 'stitched' back together so they can be followed easier.
Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com/?ref411=+GE+Range
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~
** Do you have any docs on where to find it or how to test it? **
The electronic control is in the console panel, the control system's electrical circuit runs from there to the components in the oven.
Basically someone would need to use the appliance's wiring diagram to trace or test the oven ignition circuit to see where power stopped. You can see an example of such a circuit at the page I previously linked to.
If the whole circuit was good but the ignitor was not even glowing, the electronic control would usually be assumed to be defective and would then usually need to replaced to correct the condition.
- GE JGSP31GEP4WG Electronic Control
LINK > http://tinyurl.com/6trz7
Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com/?ref411=+GE+Stove
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~
The electronic control is in the console panel, the control system's electrical circuit runs from there to the components in the oven.
Basically someone would need to use the appliance's wiring diagram to trace or test the oven ignition circuit to see where power stopped. You can see an example of such a circuit at the page I previously linked to.
If the whole circuit was good but the ignitor was not even glowing, the electronic control would usually be assumed to be defective and would then usually need to replaced to correct the condition.
- GE JGSP31GEP4WG Electronic Control
LINK > http://tinyurl.com/6trz7
Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com/?ref411=+GE+Stove
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~
