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calypsojim

08:22AM | 10/16/05
Member Since: 10/15/05
5 lifetime posts
Bvelectrical
I have a Kenmore Elite gas dryer 110.71066000 with an E1 problem too. I replaced the thermister, radiant sensor and the control board but the machine still has the problem. Sears guy came out a year ago and checked the ohms and told me everything was OK and he may have been right. It's designed not to work properly.

I wonder if I have too much restriction in the outflow? it turns a 90 just outside of the housing goes 12" and then turns a 90 into the wall. Once in the wall it turns another 90 down and finally one last 90 to a 14' run to the outside vent. No build up of lint in the vent. I checked from the machine all the way out.

Maybe too many 90's?

Calypsojim

calypsojim

09:56AM | 10/16/05
Member Since: 10/15/05
5 lifetime posts
I have tested the dryer by running the exhaust directly out the back with no venting and I still ge a shutdown and E1 after a few minutes.

This was the first year for these Calypso machines from sears and I have had it since September 2000 with this recurring problem for four of those years.

Not sure what to do next but I believe I will be buying a new machine. Which gas dryer has the best track record?

Thanks

Calypsojim

DanO

10:26AM | 10/16/05
Member Since: 11/11/02
2274 lifetime posts
** Kenmore Elite gas dryer 110.71066000 with an E1 problem... I replaced the thermister, radiant sensor and the control board but the machine still has the problem. **

The radiant sensor only controls operation of the burner. It has nothing to do with the dryer control or error codes it would display.

E1 is suppose to indicate an 'open' thermistor. Other than a failed thermistor, a failed thermistor circuit in the control or the wiring between the two, I can't see anything else causing such an error message. A failed thermistor is the usual cause.

- Kenmore 110.71066000 Thermistor

LINK > http://www.appliance411.com/data.php?rc=548392

Assuming the thermistor and control are *definitely* good (since they were just replaced), a problem in the wiring harness to the thermistor could possibly cause the control to think the thermistor was the problem.

** get a shutdown and E1 after a few minutes. **

Unfortunately, testing usually needs to be done *at time of failure* to determine a problem. Was the thermistor or its wiring harness tested right when the E1 message was present?

JMO

Dan O.

www.Appliance411.com/?ref411=Kenmore+Dryer

The Appliance Information Site

=D~~~~~~

calypsojim

04:11PM | 10/16/05
Member Since: 10/15/05
5 lifetime posts


Can I override the thermistor, perhaps shim it a little ****her out? I don't know how to check the wiring during an active failure but I would be willing to order another harness and install it.

Thanks,

Jim

calypsojim

04:12PM | 10/16/05
Member Since: 10/15/05
5 lifetime posts
****her out.

calypsojim

04:13PM | 10/16/05
Member Since: 10/15/05
5 lifetime posts
a distance slightly greater than the original distance.

DanO

05:56PM | 10/16/05
Member Since: 11/11/02
2274 lifetime posts
** Can I override the thermistor **

If its values are listed on the wiring diagram, it might be possible to simulate a good thermistor during testing using various resisters, etc. I'm afraid I do not know what the values would be (hot or cold) I'm afraid.

** perhaps shim it out? **

I doubt that would tell you anything useful.

You did replace the thermistor is an attempt to correct this *immediate* problem and not just at some time in the past??

** I don't know how to check the wiring during an active failure **

That could be very tricky to do and I've never heard it being necessary. As I stated, the thermistor itself is usually the cause of an E1 or E2 error message. Maybe make sure the connectors are tight on each end of its wiring.

JMO

Dan O.

www.Appliance411.com/?ref411=Kenmore+Dryer

The Appliance Information Site

=D~~~~~~
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