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fixitmonkey

03:48PM | 12/30/05
Member Since: 12/29/05
5 lifetime posts
Bvelectrical
I took it apart and removed the motor to check the motor coupling. It has a crack in it, but all 3 teeth are ok and it still looks servicable.

I'll probably replace that already, as it is cracked, but is there anything else I should be checking? I don't know too much about the washers, unfortunately.

110 20712 991 kenmore direct drive (series 70, if that means anything)

-- any help would be appreciated ;)

thanks

fixitmonkey

03:50PM | 12/30/05
Member Since: 12/29/05
5 lifetime posts
Oh.. and it does fill/drain, just not spin. the pump seems fine, and the motor (it buzzes when I put it on spin, just doesn't move).

thanks

DanO

05:59PM | 12/30/05
Member Since: 11/11/02
2293 lifetime posts
** it does fill/drain, just not spin. ...the motor (it buzzes when I put it on spin, just doesn't move).**

Something doesn't sound right there. The pumping takes place when the motor is running. The pump turns at the the same time as the washer is suppose to be spinning so the motor MUST BE running if it is draining.

Please clarify the symptoms you are experiencing.

Dan O.

www.Appliance411.com/parts/?ref411=Kenmore+Washer

The Appliance Information Site

=D~~~~~~

fixitmonkey

09:17PM | 12/30/05
Member Since: 12/29/05
5 lifetime posts
must have been typing too fast to be clear :)

I think the motor and pump ARE working, as you said it does drain just fine. The buzzing is the motor, I'm pretty sure, it just doesn't spin the basket.

There are no other strange sounds or anything, just the buzzing (which is about the normal sound for the washer, just without the 'swishing' of the basket that is also usually there.

I also took off the top cover on the basket and looked for anything blocking it, etc - didn't find any problems there. I'm not sure what else would cause this issue.. any ideas?

thanks for looking :)

DanO

08:38AM | 12/31/05
Member Since: 11/11/02
2293 lifetime posts
** I think the motor and pump ARE working, as you said it does drain just fine. ... it just doesn't spin the basket. **

Your washer uses what is called a 'neutral drain' transmission. When first called for spin/drain, the transmission is in 'neutral' and the motor just turns the pump. After a short period (usually by the time most of the water has been drained from the tub) the timer pauses the motor for several seconds. When the timer starts the motor again, the transmission 'shifts into gear' at which time it spins the tub.

If the timer is not pausing when it should between drain and spin, the timer may be defective and need to be replaced. It is often possible to simulate the timer pause to see if the neutral drain system of the transmission is working or not. Once most of the water has drained from the washer, lifting the lid for several seconds and then closing it again should simulate the timing pause. If the washer starts to spin after that, it may be a sign that the timer is at fault.

- Kenmore 110.20712991 Timer

LINK > http://www.appliance411.com/data.php?rc=829648

If the timer IS pausing between drain and spin but the machine is still not spinning, there could be a problem inside the transmission.

- Kenmore 'Neutral Drain' Transmission

LINK > http://www.appliance411.com/data.php?rc=423

BTW. The pump will always be turning as it is attached directly onto the motor.

JFYI

Dan O.

www.Appliance411.com/parts/?ref411=Kenmore+Washer

The Appliance Information Site

=D~~~~~~

fixitmonkey

03:40PM | 01/02/06
Member Since: 12/29/05
5 lifetime posts
Ok, I tried both scenarios:

1) Bad Timer

I let it fill (small load) with water, and waited for it to pause the motor after draining - it didn't seem to. I can still hear the motor and the pump is just 'sucking air'.

2) Transmission

I let it drain, then hit the lid switch for 5 seconds to see if the spin would engage - it did not.

After I reassembled it, before doing the above tests, I noticed that the agitator seemed a bit weak and slow also (is this the crack in the couple?). (It had clothes in it last time, so I didn't really notice it all that much). Even with the tests above, I have not seen it spin the basket at all (not even a little jerk like it is trying to move it but can't or anything like that).

.. so I'm still a bit in the dark. Any help would be appreciated, and thanks for taking the time to assist as you have so far. :)

DanO

06:11PM | 01/02/06
Member Since: 11/11/02
2293 lifetime posts
** I noticed that the agitator seemed a bit weak and slow also is this the crack in the couple? **

If the coupler was broken, the washer wouldn't wash or spin. If the couple isn't broken, it should do both. Just "cracked" wouldn't normally partially affect anything. It's usually an all or nothing proposition.

** I let it drain, then hit the lid switch for 5 seconds to see if the spin would engage - it did not. **

Was the motor running again after closing the lid? If the motor was running but the transmission was still not turning, I would think either the transmission is defective or the tub is jammed up somehow. Can it be turned by hand?

JMO

Dan O.

www.Appliance411.com

The Appliance Information Site

=D~~~~~~

fixitmonkey

11:02AM | 01/19/06
Member Since: 12/29/05
5 lifetime posts
Haven't been around to look at this, but I got another chance last night. I had picked up a new couple as I figured I'd replace that anyway (didn't want the cracked one breaking in a couple months and have to re-open the machine again, you know).

The machine works perfect after replacing it. I'm still shocked that the crack would cause the problem, but that seems to be the case. Maybe I'll post a picture if I can get ahold of a digital camera - so that others can see just how small a problem with the couple can affect the washer in this way.

In any case, thanks for all your advice DanO, and at least I learned a lot about washers - which I'm sure will come in handy down the road (as my friends always ask me to fix stuff). :)

DanO

12:37PM | 01/19/06
Member Since: 11/11/02
2293 lifetime posts
Usually it is the 'fingers' of the couple that crack and eventually shear right off until there is no longer any connection between the motor and transmission. Until that time, the washer should usually still operate as expected (although possibly a bit noisier).

If the crack in the coupler was at such a location where it could allow slipping on the 'keyed' motor shaft or transmission shaft, that could possibly cause your symptoms. It is not the normal way they fail, glad to hear you figured it out!

Dan O.

www.Appliance411.com/parts/?ref411=Kenmore+Washer

The Appliance Information Site

=D~~~~~~

kevin5119

05:50AM | 11/10/08
Member Since: 11/09/08
1 lifetime posts
Hi. I have this same exact problem with my washer. Could someone please point me to a site and page that has this replacement part and possibly a how-to fix it?

Thanks.

kevin
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