I have a GE XL44 oven, model number:JGBC20BEW2AD. The top burners work fine, but the oven/broiler does not work or works intermitently. Sometimes the heating element does not light at all, but other times it lights, the flame fires up and the oven works for a time but then eventually it shuts off. Does this indiacte that it is more likely a gas valve problem or a heating element problem, since the element does work sometimes. Is there a way to test the gas valve? I've already checked and the ignitor is getting a current and i'd rather not buy/replace the both items.
Thanks.
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Hi,
**Is there a way to test the gas valve?**
Not really, normally elminate/check other items until that is the only item left.
**Sometimes the heating element does not light at all, but other times it lights, the flame fires up and the oven works**
The ignitor does not always work or the flame does not always work?
The hot surface ignitor can glow red and still be bad!...an amp meter is used to test...
http://www.applianceaid.com/gas.html#glow
http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=153&N=2494
Oven igniter assembly.
If the hot surface ignitor is not comming on, things like a bad temperature control, loose wire, bad ignitor would be suspect.
jeff.
Appliance Repair Aid
http://www.applianceaid.com/
JRAppliance
http://www.jrappliance.ca
**Is there a way to test the gas valve?**
Not really, normally elminate/check other items until that is the only item left.
**Sometimes the heating element does not light at all, but other times it lights, the flame fires up and the oven works**
The ignitor does not always work or the flame does not always work?
The hot surface ignitor can glow red and still be bad!...an amp meter is used to test...
http://www.applianceaid.com/gas.html#glow
http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=153&N=2494
Oven igniter assembly.
If the hot surface ignitor is not comming on, things like a bad temperature control, loose wire, bad ignitor would be suspect.
jeff.
Appliance Repair Aid
http://www.applianceaid.com/
JRAppliance
http://www.jrappliance.ca
Hi,
The ignitor does not always light or heat up and then consequently there is no flame. So sometimes it sits there cold and does not get hot at all. However, sometimes the ignitor heats up, the flame ignites and the oven seems to be working normally, but then it will die after a period of time without reason...does this indicate any particular type of problem. I'm thinking of just replacing the ignitor, but don't want to replace it if it is really a valve problem...I have checked the ignitor for current and it was fine. so is it possible for the ignitor to be bad if it only works half the time?
The ignitor does not always light or heat up and then consequently there is no flame. So sometimes it sits there cold and does not get hot at all. However, sometimes the ignitor heats up, the flame ignites and the oven seems to be working normally, but then it will die after a period of time without reason...does this indicate any particular type of problem. I'm thinking of just replacing the ignitor, but don't want to replace it if it is really a valve problem...I have checked the ignitor for current and it was fine. so is it possible for the ignitor to be bad if it only works half the time?
**So sometimes it sits there cold and does not get hot at all**
That is when to test...power to the ignitor or no power to the ignitor...it should receive 110-120 volts AC.
**does this indicate any particular type of problem**
Nothing other than the problem is intermittant...which is hard to trace since you need to see/test when it quits or fails.
**I'm thinking of just replacing the ignitor, but don't want to replace it if it is really a valve problem**
Gas safety valve problems are rare.
**is it possible for the ignitor to be bad if it only works half the time?**
If the ignitor has a loose connection inside itself, yes.
The hardest part is being able to test when the ignitor will not come on...no power being supplied to the ignitor ( control, wire, valve ) or if power is supplied to the ignitor ( bad ignitor ).
jeff.
Appliance Repair Aid
http://www.applianceaid.com/
JRAppliance
http://www.jrappliance.ca
That is when to test...power to the ignitor or no power to the ignitor...it should receive 110-120 volts AC.
**does this indicate any particular type of problem**
Nothing other than the problem is intermittant...which is hard to trace since you need to see/test when it quits or fails.
**I'm thinking of just replacing the ignitor, but don't want to replace it if it is really a valve problem**
Gas safety valve problems are rare.
**is it possible for the ignitor to be bad if it only works half the time?**
If the ignitor has a loose connection inside itself, yes.
The hardest part is being able to test when the ignitor will not come on...no power being supplied to the ignitor ( control, wire, valve ) or if power is supplied to the ignitor ( bad ignitor ).
jeff.
Appliance Repair Aid
http://www.applianceaid.com/
JRAppliance
http://www.jrappliance.ca
