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abfab04

12:32PM | 09/19/08
Member Since: 08/10/05
49 lifetime posts
Bvelectrical
I have a coin-op Inglis dryer (model TO-81001) which has a switch for permanent press, regular and delicate cycles. It came with the house and only the delicate cycle has ever worked. Lately I noticed that i had to do a load twice to dry the clothes properly.

I removed the switch and noticed it had years of thick dust/dirt build-up. After cleaning it all three cycles started to work, however during testing the temps were reversed - delicate was hotter than pp/reg. I thought maybe the front of the switch was backwards (the back piece indicates the top), so i flipped it over. However during the second test i had delicate heat but the pp/reg was only about 80F. I flipped it back but there was no change. Now my pp cycle is giving heat, but cool air when i try regular or delicate. Does this sound like its the switch that is defective or the thermostat?

thanks!

DanO

04:13PM | 09/19/08
Member Since: 11/11/02
2271 lifetime posts
** Inglis dryer model TO81001 **

I'm afraid I have no parts lists available to look up how that model dryer was designed.

** Lately I noticed that i had to do a load twice to dry the clothes properly. **

That is most often caused by a plugged, partially plugged or poorly installed (see the following link) dryer vent.

- How long can my dryer vent be?

LINK > www.appliance411.ca/links/jump.cgi?ID=778

On dryer models that used a dual element coil heater (rare), if one of those coils had failed it could also cause it as well. A shorted to ground heater coil could also cause reduced heat but on all settings.

** I removed the switch... during testing the temps were reversed - delicate was hotter than pp/reg. **

There is no chance the wires got mixed up during reinstallation?

** Now my pp cycle is giving heat, but cool air when i try regular or delicate. **

That might also indicated mixed up wiring.

** Does this sound like its the switch that is defective? **

It could be. Its switching functions would have to be tested against the dryer's wiring diagram.

** Does this sound like its the switch that is defective thermostat? **

If your dryer model uses individual thermostats for the different heat settings, that could be possible although it is unlikely for 2 to fail at the same time and also that one would stop working and another start just by tampering with the heat selector switch.

JMO

Dan O.

www.Appliance411.ca/parts/?ref411=Inglis+Dryer

The Appliance Information Site

=D~~~~~~

abfab04

05:01AM | 09/22/08
Member Since: 08/10/05
49 lifetime posts
Thank you for your reply!

While I had the back open i cleaned everything, including the vent, which had very little build-up.

It only has one coil. Since it was heating up on all three settings after the switch was cleaned I don't think its the cause.

I initially thought about the wires being mixed up, even though i wrote it down before disconnecting, but both the wires and the switch are marked and i verified that they match.

I think it has two thermostats. One for lower temp delicate cycle and one for pp/reg which use the same temp. Given that pp works but regular doesn't I find it odd that would be the thermostat.

I don't have a wire diagram as the machine is old and didn't come with any paperwork. However, while the cycles were running, i did test the voltage of the wires at the switch and also at the blower. I should have written it down, so i could explain it better, but i found the results inconsistent. One wire would show no power during one of the cycles, while another would show no power during a different cycle. After flipped the switch over and back again i didn't get the exact same results.

DanO

09:43AM | 09/22/08
Member Since: 11/11/02
2271 lifetime posts
You can not test for voltage at a switch with it still in the circuit. When testing for "voltage" you are actually measuring voltage *difference* and if the switch was closed the same voltage would be present on both sides of the switch contacts = no voltage *difference* detected.

The usual way to test switch contacts is by continuity testing and only once removed from the circuit (see the following link). Of course, you'd usually need to compare the readings received with how the wiring diagram says it should switch (unless you can deduce that for yourself).

- How do I test for continuity?

LINK > www.appliance411.ca/links/jump.cgi?ID=817

** I don't have a wire diagram as the machine is old and didn't come with any paperwork. **

You can try contacting Inglis/Whirlpool Canada to see if they can supply a replacement.

** While open i cleaned everything, including the vent **

The venting *all the way from the dryer to the outdoors* (and not just from the dryer to the wall)??

JMO

Dan O.

www.Appliance411.ca/parts/?ref411=Inglis+Dryer

The Appliance Information Site

=D~~~~~~
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