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simonyoung

11:20AM | 11/29/08
Member Since: 11/28/08
6 lifetime posts
Bvelectrical
A round igniter glows to bright orange within seconds of turning on the oven and I smell gas but oven will not light.

The orifice hood looks like in the correct position for nature gas. I open up the air shutter and I can light up a small flame inside with a match. However the burner will not light.

It is a build-in oven made by Gaffers & Sattler (a division of Magic Chef) in early 1980. The model # is EA91-5CLXM5P and serial # is 09357GA. Please advice and thank you.

DanO

03:05PM | 11/29/08
Member Since: 11/11/02
2271 lifetime posts
** igniter glows to bright orange and I smell gas but oven will not light. **

Either the oven ignitor is not getting hot enough to ignite the expelled gas or the ignitor resistance is just enough to barely open the gas valve or the gas valve is defective and just not opening fully.

Hopefully it is the ignitor that is the problem as the oven gas valve # 997-566 looks to have been discontinued.

- Replacement EA91-5CLXM5P Oven Ignitor

LINK > www.appliance411.com/data.php?ap=AP3537311

JFYI

Dan O.

www.Appliance411.com/parts/?ref411=Oven

The Appliance Information Site

=D~~~~~~

simonyoung

08:38PM | 11/29/08
Member Since: 11/28/08
6 lifetime posts
I will get a amperage meter to find if there is enough resistance to open the gas valve. I will let you know the results after I took the measurement. Thanks for the guidence.

DanO

08:47PM | 11/29/08
Member Since: 11/11/02
2271 lifetime posts
** I will get a amperage meter to find if there is enough resistance to open the gas valve **

You're looking to measure the amperage of the ignitor circuit. The round style ignitor should draw 2.5 to 3.0 amps.

** I will let you know the results **

Please do.

Dan O.

www.Appliance411.com/parts/?ref411=Gas+Oven

The Appliance Information Site

=D~~~~~~

simonyoung

12:38PM | 12/04/08
Member Since: 11/28/08
6 lifetime posts
Dear Dan,

Thank you for your kind reply.

I just took some measurements on the igniter (parts# GR-402) and bi-metal safety valve (parts# NC-1425-5A). The electric current is 2.59 ampere into valve and voltage across safety valve is 3.1v. The safety valve voltage spec calls for 3.3/4.0 VAC. My intuition tells me that bi-metal valve is bad. However, the lower voltage reading may be caused by defected igniter with a larger resistor. Larger resistor would lower the electric current and hence give a lower voltage across the 2 terminals of the valve.

Well, now I am confused. Which of the valve or igniter that I should replace? Is there possible that neither is defective and I should check on other component?

Simon

DanO

09:09PM | 12/04/08
Member Since: 11/11/02
2271 lifetime posts
** current is 2.59 ampere **

That is close to borderline of what is expected.

** Which of the valve or igniter that I should replace? **

Ignitors are by far the biggest cause of problems in such a system, in the area of 70-80%.

And since the valve looks to have been discontinued it doesn't leave a lot of options?

** Is there possible that neither is defective and I should check on other component? **

I don't know what other component could be responsible unless the burner is plugged and just not letting gas out nearest the ignitor.

JMO

Dan O.

www.Appliance411.com/parts/?ref411=Gas+Range

The Appliance Information Site

=D~~~~~~

simonyoung

06:08PM | 12/15/08
Member Since: 11/28/08
6 lifetime posts
Dan

Thanks for the advice. I will Replace igniter and if does not fix the problem I will then replace the valve. Thanks again.

Simon

DanO

11:05PM | 12/15/08
Member Since: 11/11/02
2271 lifetime posts
** I will Replace igniter **

Let us know how you make out.

** if does not fix the problem I will then replace the valve. **

You can *try* to find a replacement if needed. As I stated previously, the valve for your oven looks to have been discontinued by the manufacturer.

JFYI

Dan O.

www.Appliance411.com/parts/?ref411=Gas+Range

The Appliance Information Site

=D~~~~~~

simonyoung

01:27PM | 01/03/09
Member Since: 11/28/08
6 lifetime posts
Dear Dan

I installed a new igniter and took some measurement as follows;

When I turn on the oven, the amperage reading instant goes up to 3.4A then drop to 2.61 in 40 sec and further drop to steady reading of 2.61A in another 8 sec.

For comparison, I also took some measurement with the old igniter as follows;

when I turn on the oven, the current goes from 0 to 2.62A in 16 sec, and then drop to steady 2.56A in another 19sec.

Have I got a defect new igniter or I should consider replace gas regulator and/or gas valve (safety valve)? How can I check out if gas regulator and/or gas valve is defected?

Thanks in advance

Simon

DanO

04:23PM | 01/03/09
Member Since: 11/11/02
2271 lifetime posts
** Have I got a defect new igniter **

I wouldn't think so. If it were totally dead then maybe.

** How can I check if gas regulator and/or gas valve is defected? **

A regulator can only be checked by measuring gas flow pressure out of it using a manometer.

There is no direct test I know of for an oven valve. It is usually just assumed to be defective if everything else checks out.

JMO

Dan O.
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