I'm afraid that is not enough information to identify the appliance in question. What is needed is its exact model number ("XL44" isn't it). If you post it we can look it up to see what appliance design you're dealing with.
You can find tips for locating the model and serial number identification tag on your appliances at the following link:
- Model Number Tag Location Guide
LINK > www.appliance411.com/parts/tagsearch.cgi
** I replaced the ignitor and it still doesn't kick on **
What won't "kick on"? The oven burner or the ignitor??
More accurate details of what is or is not occurring is needed before anyone will be able to accurately suggest possible causes. You can read about how common gas oven ignition systems work and the observations and tests necessary to start diagnosing problems with them at the following link:
** I tested the leads that would connect to the ignitor and got nothing. **
You tested there for what exactly???
** I have been trying to find a diagram to know the location of the gas valve. **
Follow the tubing from the oven burner and it will lead to it. I don't know exactly where it is mounted but shouldn't usually be far from the burner. You can see what it looks like at the following link:
- General Electric JGBP35WEA6WW Oven Gas Valve
LINK > www.appliance411.com/data.php?ap=AP2022753
** Is there a web page that would have that information? **
Nothing with photos, no. You can however see exploded parts views for your range model at the following link. I don't know how much they'll help.
- GE JGBP35WEA6WW Exploded Parts Views
LINK > www.appliance411.com/data.php?apm=JGBP35WEA6WW
I tested the ignitor first for continuity. It passed. Then the two wires connecting to the ignitor, that failed. But my thought it that it is connected to more than one device, the gas valve and the electronic control thing. I found the gas valve and will check it for continuity.
** Then [I tested] the two wires connecting to the ignitor, that failed. **
You "tested" there for what? Continuity, voltage??
In either case I don't know what that would achieve.
** I found the gas valve and will check it for continuity. **
Good. If open it is definitely defective.
If both the ignitor and gas valve have continuity and the wiring between them and the control is also good, it may be that the control is just not powering the ignition circuit in which case the control itself may be the problem.
- General Electric JGBP35WEA6WW Electronic Control
LINK > www.appliance411.com/data.php?ap=AP2025075
As I sated, there shouldn't usually be any other components in that circuit which would prevent power from getting there if the control is supplying it.