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countrydoctor

09:27AM | 08/22/10
Member Since: 08/21/10
5 lifetime posts
Bvelectrical
I have an old (15yr?)Type XL 44 GE self cleaning oven, Model: JGBS16GEP5AD.

3 years ago, the oven didn't fire up so I changed out the igniter and it worked.

Igniter broke again recently, and I replaced it HOWEVER... I did a dumb thing: I wired it wrong. When attaching the wires with the wire nuts, I accidentally attached the two leads from the ignitor together... and the two leads from the gas valve together. (all wires had white insulation...color coding would have been nice.. oh, well)

I turned on the oven knob, the interior light dimmed for a second, and I could hear/smell the gas. After 15 seconds, the filament was not doing anything, so I turned the knob back to OFF.

I then discovered the wiring mistake and corrected it. After that, turning the knob did not open the gas valve, nor did the igniter glow... and the interior bulb didn't dim, which is probably the telltale signal that I fried the valve...so...

Did I fry the valve?

If NOT, what are the possibilities, other than replace the igniter again and, IF SO, what are my 3 best choices for the next move. All internet searches on the topic lead to igniter replacement (80-90% of the time, that is the problem)

No "solution" I've found actually goes into changing out or testing the gas safety valve. My gut says this element is the problem.

ANY THEORIES OUT THERE???

DanO

09:41AM | 08/23/10
Member Since: 11/11/02
2274 lifetime posts
** I wired it wrong. I accidentally attached the two leads from the ignitor together and the two leads from the gas valve together. **

** Did I fry the valve? **

If you connected power directly to the gas valve without it being in series with the ignitor first, yes it is very possible the gas valve is now defective.

- GE JGBS16GEP5AD Oven Gas Valve

LINK > http://tinyurl.com/22rrxcx

** No "solution" I've found actually goes into changing out or testing the gas safety valve. **

In a case such as above, the gas valve would likely be electrically open from such a connection. A simple continuity test (see the following link) would reveal that.

- How do I test for continuity?

LINK > www.appliance411.com/links/jump.cgi?ID=817

** My gut says this element is the problem. **

You mean the ignitor?

- GE JGBS16GEP5AD Oven Ignitor

LINK > http://tinyurl.com/28wuarp

The ignitor would suffer the same fate from being connected directly to power. It would likely now be totally open if it was damaged in the process which should also be determined by a simple continuity test.

JMO

Dan O.

www.Appliance411.com/parts/?ref411=GE+Range

The Appliance Information Site

=D~~~~~~

countrydoctor

10:51AM | 08/23/10
Member Since: 08/21/10
5 lifetime posts
When the "wrong" wiring was in place, there was no power delivered to the igniter because it was attached to itself.

I will test both for continuity.

Stay tuned...thanks DanO

DanO

08:21AM | 08/24/10
Member Since: 11/11/02
2274 lifetime posts
** there was no power delivered to the igniter because it was attached to itself. **

Than there should be no reason it was defective if not physically damaged in the process.

JMO

Dan O.

www.Appliance411.com/parts/?ref411=GE+Range

The Appliance Information Site

=D~~~~~~

countrydoctor

01:08PM | 09/12/10
Member Since: 08/21/10
5 lifetime posts
I had to go and buy a multimeter to do this...what took me so long was that summer doesn't require an oven much, as long as the microwave and the Weber grill are working.

Now we are staring down the barrel of autumn so I gotta get rollin'

I'm about to do a few household fix chores today and the continuity test is one of them....wish me luck. I will report back ASAP.

countrydoctor

04:29PM | 09/12/10
Member Since: 08/21/10
5 lifetime posts
The conclusion is that the gas safety valve did not pass the continuity test.

The meter did not beep. I assume that this part must be replaced. Do you agree?

LarryG

02:59AM | 09/13/10
Member Since: 07/22/04
529 lifetime posts
you should get at least some kind of reading across that gas valve coil.

how about across the new igniter ?

DanO

09:28AM | 09/13/10
Member Since: 11/11/02
2274 lifetime posts
** The meter did not beep. I assume that this part must be replaced. Do you agree? **

Assuming, of course, the meter you're using is actually working and being used properly, yes, a failure to beep would usually mean OPEN (NO continuity).

I myself prefer just a simple analog VOM meter for most testing. That way you can see exactly what's going on. Rarely is any fancier meter required.

- How do I test for continuity?

LINK > www.appliance411.com/links/jump.cgi?ID=817

JMO

Dan O.

www.Appliance411.com/parts/?ref411=GE+Range

The Appliance Information Site

=D~~~~~~

countrydoctor

01:12PM | 09/16/10
Member Since: 08/21/10
5 lifetime posts
I know I'm using the meter properly, and tested it on other open and closed circuits to verify it works.

Now, I also tested the continuity for the igniter (the one I think I burned out, as described earlier). The meter did not beep for the igniter. However, I'm wondering if it should, if functioning. Does the circuitry of an igniter actually have a continuous path when not operating? Isn't there some heat related activity that closes the connection when power is applied?

LarryG

02:18PM | 09/16/10
Member Since: 07/22/04
529 lifetime posts
it should show some resistance not necessarily enough to make the beeper sound and not infinative.

but not zero ohms either.
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