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warriors

05:58AM | 05/05/04
Member Since: 05/04/04
2 lifetime posts
Bvdecor
I have a concrete pad with no rebar sticking out to attach the mudsill for a garage. I keep getting different opinions for how to "tie down" the garage. One suggestion is to use a nailer that uses 22 cal. shots with 3 inch nails. Other people say that will crack my floor. Others say to get a concrete bid and drill holes and attach it that way. I am not a contruction person in anyway, but would like to do this myself in order to learn and save money. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

Piffin

01:15PM | 05/06/04
Member Since: 11/06/02
1281 lifetime posts
REbar is not used to attach mud sills. Normally, anchor bolts are placed when the slab is poured. Sounds like someboidy wasn't on the ball.

You can shoot the plate down when it is only partition walls but for structural walls you need it bolted.

That means that you need to place the plate with Hilti bolts or wedge bolts. A hammer drill with a 1/2" masonry bit will make the hole ( maybe you can rent one) every four feet, more or less. When you drop int the wedge bolt and tap the pin it expands in the hole. Then use a wrench to tighten. A four and a half inch by 1/2" wedge bolt should do the job.

Theat is for basic fastening. If you live in a seismic or high wind are like California or Florida, there arre very specific local codes to make sure buildings stay where you put them.

Excellence is its own reward!


homebild

04:16PM | 05/09/04
Member Since: 01/28/03
693 lifetime posts
New to the Simpson Strong-Tie wood to concrete fastening system is the "Titen" fastening bolt.

Much like a 'tapcon' screw, the Titen Bolt simply screws into a predrilled concrete foundation or slab for quick connection:

http://www.simpsonanchors.com/catalog/mechanical/titen-hd/index.html

warriors

11:09AM | 05/12/04
Member Since: 05/04/04
2 lifetime posts
Piffin and homebild. Thank you. I said I wasn't very construction savvy, hince the "rebar". I will be trying your suggestions.
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