04:18PM | 02/04/00
Member Since: 02/03/00
2 lifetime posts
We are building a screened in porch off back of ranch. I want to put a deck style floor down with a frame underneath. We also want to put our hottub in there, (the area is 9 x 24).
The owners manual says the deck needs to be designed to hold 90 pounds per square foot. How do I figure what to use, 2x6, 2x8 etc.
Thanks in advance


02:41PM | 03/05/00
Member Since: 03/04/00
2 lifetime posts
Hey Greg If it eases your mind alittle, I just added a loft to my house using joust hangers and they worked like a charm. The loft is approximately 10'x15' and we have quite a bit of stuff in there, and no problems whatsoever!!


05:28AM | 07/07/00
Member Since: 07/06/00
6 lifetime posts
Your best bet is to go to a lumber dealer who has an engineering staff on site. This is definitely more costly, but you are dealing with a lot more than lots of stuff in an attic. The deflection of a joist or beam is dependent on the species of wood and the dead and live loads placed on it. Since you do get snow in your area, you have that as a problem. Hot tubs usually attract more company on your deck than usual also. So you have a larger live + dead load than the weight of the wood: the tub, the people, the snow (we love to go tubbing at 20 below). It now looks like wood weight+ 90+ maybe 8 people + 20 to 30 lbs of snow.
I have a book on architectural graphics standards that shows a 40 pound per square foot live load needs 2x10 on 12 inch centers supported by beam spans of 15'2". For 50 pound live load, it is 2x10,12"O.C. over 14'3" beam spans. For 60 pound live load, it is 2x10, 12"O.C. over 13'6" beam spans. These are for the worst case elasticity noted. If the equation is linear, that puts your deck in the 2x10,12"O.C. over 6 to 8 ft beam spans. I suspect however that the equation is not linear. That is why you need an engineer who knows the species he is selling. A better bet is to sink the tub onto the ground and surround it with deck.


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