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Piffin

04:23PM | 10/17/04
Member Since: 11/06/02
1284 lifetime posts
I see by the date, I might be a little late.

The $20K price sounded out of sight to me too for a FD, but I believe that the diff comes from a difference in use of terms.

By going down below your cellar floor, you are putting in a perimeter drain, which some call a french drain.

But most places where I have worked, a french drain is more of a surface system to catch surface runoff, and guide it away from the house before it has time to seep and penetrate deeper into the soil where it can find a way to leak into the foundation.

What you are doing is the better way, giving a drain so water ahs a way to flow away from the house first. The best of dams will leak if you do not give the water another place to go.

The water has been getting into the block wall and slowly seeping thru to the interior, which is why some block sections werre filled with water until you provide ( by digging) a better place to go than inside.

So run that drainage to daylight or to a drywell, and the waterproof the foundation wall again and 99.99% should stay out.

Excellence is its own reward!


dadof5

05:37AM | 10/25/04
Member Since: 09/16/04
16 lifetime posts
'c' tom or piffin or any other expert. With all your help I dug and dug and dug and put in a foundation drain backfilled entirely with limestone and it drains downhill to daylight(following your instructions and advise from the past 18 replies. As stated in my hurry to beat a pending rainfall, I forgot to tar the block before I backfilled,

My latest question is, since I didnt tar the outside and I have to re-do the inside dry wall I want to waterproof the inside. I found a web site www.sanitred.com that sells

waterproofing product that have some fantastic claims. I was interested in the "permaflex" and "LRB". I just wanted to know If you guys ever heard of this stuff and what you think or if you havent could you take a look and tell me what you think.

Continued thanks for your help and advise

Bob

tk100gct

03:32PM | 11/01/04
Member Since: 10/31/04
3 lifetime posts
I am a newbee

Just found this forum on a search about footing/perimeter drains

I have had some similar trouble, except that my c-blocks turned to sand and collapsed.

i just finnished pouring a new wall

and i was searching for details on installing the drains.

anyway in reading the threads to this forum, i believe someone advised you to put the "holes" on the straight white perforated pipe "down".

i just wanted to correct them, and say that they should be "up" until the pipe decends at least 10 ft from the foundation.

Also, i am running mine to daylight too, but if someone isn't able to do that, there are some other great options like:

the infiltrator at www.infiltratorsystems.com

and

flow-well leaching systems at www.ndspro.com


tk100gct

03:40PM | 11/01/04
Member Since: 10/31/04
3 lifetime posts
oh yea

how could i forget

i found this stuff recently

i haven't used it yet

but i hear its great

i will probably install it in the spring, around my perimeter

www.americanwick.com

good luck!

cellarwater

07:33PM | 11/03/04
Member Since: 12/09/03
178 lifetime posts
Those holes drilled in that pipe want to be down with a minimum of 4 inches of crushed rock below the holes. There will be an extra 4 and 1/2 extra inches of water height in the ground with the holes turned up. C.

Glenn Good

03:18PM | 11/04/04
Member Since: 09/10/03
320 lifetime posts
cellarwater is correct. The holes in the pipe should always face DOWN. The water in the trench will have to fill up to a level with the holes before it can spill into them.

Water draining into the trench is not going to run directly into the holes in the pipe. The water only enters the pipe when the water level in the bottom of the trench reaches the elevation of the holes. If the holes are turned up the water level must build to a higher level before it can reach them.

The pipe carrying the water away from the foundation should not have holes at all. It should be soild.

Glenn

Moderator: Construction Systems, Foundations, and Masonry & Stone

For more information about me and/or my qualifications please visit my website at:

www.consultationdirect.com

dadof5

04:26PM | 11/04/04
Member Since: 09/16/04
16 lifetime posts
Thanks all for the input. Dont worry I put the holes down and so far seems to be working fine, though I need a good 2inch rain to be sure.Im still wondering if anyone has heard of the waterproofing products offered on www.sanitred.com. As stated, believe it or not I forgot to tar the outside block before backfilling, so for peace of mind I want to waterproof the inside of the wall before I replace the warped water damaged drywall and frame inside.Would appreciate any input on these products if you have heard of them or what you think of the claims on the website. It very expensive per gallon and would hate to waste the money, but would be worth it if it lives up to its claims.(And is safe) Many thanks again. Bob F.

cellarwater

04:49PM | 11/05/04
Member Since: 12/09/03
178 lifetime posts
I wish I had more info on Sanitred I don't. I hope the drain works well though! That was an [pardon the pun:)] UNDERtaking. I would favor sealing the wall from the outside. C.

dadof5

09:25AM | 11/10/04
Member Since: 09/16/04
16 lifetime posts
The job is complete inside and out. Many thanks to all who responded with helpful advise. On a rainy night, if you hear a loud cry coming from the Pittsburgh area, it will be me !!!! thanks again, bob f
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