I have owned a Craftsman 10" table saw for almost 15 years. The motor is rated at 1.5 HP (sold as 3 Hp peak) 120volts 13amps. The problem is recently wehn i start the saw it takes A LONG time to get up to speed. It may take 15 seconds or more and sometimes even trip my circut breaker before it gets there. After the blade is up to speed I can make cuts but the power seems to be a little compromised. I disassembled the motor to find brushes of some sort that might need replacing but I have yet to find anything that looks very worn to me. There does apear to be a capacitor and another cylinder (maybe a second capacitor) attached to the outside of the motor houseing but I do not know if they can go bad or if they could be the problem. I find it hard to believe that a new motor (part #820030) is almost 250 dollars. Does anyone know what might be wrong with my motor and how to go about fixing it?
Thanks, Andrew
P.S. I have run to motor on and off the saw with the same problem. The Drivetrain to the saw is well lubricated and does not provide a lot of resistance to the motor.
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Just curious, it's not one of those cable-driven saws is it? It was a design they used to have that allowed the blade to be raised really high. I used to have one; it was ok for normal stuff, but definitely not a top-quality saw. It would sometimes take a while to come up to speed.
I have long since bought a belt-driven saw.
Regards,
-k2 in CO
Moderator, Miscellaneous Forum
http://www.bobvila.com/BBS/Miscellaneous
I have long since bought a belt-driven saw.
Regards,
-k2 in CO
Moderator, Miscellaneous Forum
http://www.bobvila.com/BBS/Miscellaneous
Thanks for the quick post,
It's a belt drive system. I'm sure that the motor is not preforming properly. I am able to turn on the motor (romoved from the saw) and keep the arbor from starting to spin just using the strength from my hand (and the leverage from the 2-2.5in pully).
Still puzzled,
Andrew
It's a belt drive system. I'm sure that the motor is not preforming properly. I am able to turn on the motor (romoved from the saw) and keep the arbor from starting to spin just using the strength from my hand (and the leverage from the 2-2.5in pully).
Still puzzled,
Andrew
NOTE NOTE ALWAYS UNPLUG THE MOTOR BEFORE MAKING ANY TESTS.
what is the model number of the motor and of the saw?? sounds like the start capacitor and or the run capacitor is/are bad the start capacitor is normally the one on otp in the rounded can. they can be checked with an analog multimeter. to check, remove one lead from the capacitor. put the multimeter on the highest ohms reading. connect the meter leads to the two capacitor leads. the meter should initially show an almost short, then gradually increase the resistance reading as the capacitor charges. reverse the meter leads. the needle will initally peg on the bottom of the scale and them show increasing resistance. this indicates a good capacitor. if the meter does not indicate resistance, or indicates a short, the capacitor is bad. CAUTION!! do NOT touch the meter leads, or the capacitor terminals when making the checks. the capacitor takes on a charge and can shock you.
JMHO
Carl
what is the model number of the motor and of the saw?? sounds like the start capacitor and or the run capacitor is/are bad the start capacitor is normally the one on otp in the rounded can. they can be checked with an analog multimeter. to check, remove one lead from the capacitor. put the multimeter on the highest ohms reading. connect the meter leads to the two capacitor leads. the meter should initially show an almost short, then gradually increase the resistance reading as the capacitor charges. reverse the meter leads. the needle will initally peg on the bottom of the scale and them show increasing resistance. this indicates a good capacitor. if the meter does not indicate resistance, or indicates a short, the capacitor is bad. CAUTION!! do NOT touch the meter leads, or the capacitor terminals when making the checks. the capacitor takes on a charge and can shock you.
JMHO
Carl
