Could anyone explain how a modern computer operated saw mill could have such varying width tolerances? Was it a mistake buying the lumber at a home improvement warehouse?
Thanks.
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My deck project has been coming along slowly, but surely. I've purchased all the 2x6s (10 footers and 16 footers) needed for decking and started fastening things down. Well, about three 3 deck boards into my 34x16 foot deck I found that the width of my 2x6s is all over the place. I have some that are a bit less than 5 1/2 inches and some that are a bit more than 5 3/4 inches and lots in between. Now I understand that a 2x6 is not actually 2 inches by 6 inches, but the 1/4 inch+ variation in width that I have is causing me lots of problems when laying out 34 feet of lumber end to end.
It is fustrating isn't it... over the years I personally have found that buyinmg my stock from a lumber yard is best. I have several reasons for that..
One is I get a constant run, so the variation in the framing is tolerable. By constant run I mean mills are changing their blades & resharpening them, when I order from a lumber yard I know I get stock from the same "run" in a unit.
One is I get a constant run, so the variation in the framing is tolerable. By constant run I mean mills are changing their blades & resharpening them, when I order from a lumber yard I know I get stock from the same "run" in a unit.
I also don't like to order a delivery from a home improvement center as the stock has been picked over and you invariably end up with a lot you have to send back.
I have a few more professional reasons like grade, type of pressure treat, lumber yard storage locations, treatment depth (I order ground contact), getting exactly what I do order, and moisture content among them.
Here are 2 simple tricks to help you, (but it sounds as if you have the project completed by now)... I pick out the smallest depth for the house ledger & the deepest depth for the rim joist.
It is easiest to match the top of the ledger as you only need to level at the J-hanger base with a chisel. At the rim you match the top the two 16d cross nail through the joist into the beam will carry most small gaps up to a 1/16 or 1/8 for above that shim with PT usually the chips from the hangers would suffice, you can rip them from scrap.
...The real solution is to send the unit back and order from a pro yard.
[This message has been edited by Altereagle (edited November 07, 2003).]
Any framing lumber from any store/supplier is likely to have some 1/4" variability. Some is in the milling and some is simply because of moisture from rain or whatever.
