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chelmows

07:39PM | 05/26/04
Member Since: 05/25/04
2 lifetime posts
Bvlawn
I have a large deck built out of Pressure treated lumber. It is about 4 years old. Last year the wood started splintering and the whole family received small but painful splinters in thier feet. This year I pressure washed the deck and it made it worse. My question is this. What options do I have to help with the splintering? Would a good thick coat of paint help?

Any Help appreciated.

tomh

07:07AM | 05/27/04
Member Since: 07/01/03
550 lifetime posts
It sounds like the deck was never protected with a product to prevent wood deterioration. Painting the deck surface is a high maintenance proposition. Even quality solid stains and floor and deck paints can peel if the deck gets wet, and it sounds like the wood is cracked. A thick coat of paint is very likely to peel.

I recommend you look into sanding the deck with a large belt sander, or rental floor sander. The choice of tool depend on how level the deck is across the boards and if the nails or screws are countersunk. The deck needs to be in good level condition to use a floor sander. Sanding will remove all the loose fibers and leave smooth boards behind. This will prevent most of the splinters. A penetrating oil stain can be used to protect the wood and prevent more splinters from being raised. The stain will need reapplied at least every 2-years, but it will not peel, and preparation should be easy in subsequent applications.

chelmows

07:12AM | 05/27/04
Member Since: 05/25/04
2 lifetime posts
I have used Thompsons water seal every year until last year. Is the stain a better Idea. The deck is level but the Nails are not countersunk so the floor sander would probably not work.

tomh

09:06AM | 05/27/04
Member Since: 07/01/03
550 lifetime posts
The belt sander would level out splinters and hold up to most nails. You could sink nails as you go to keep the heads from being sanded off. It would give you the smoothest possible surface. Use a 60 grit to start, and if you want to finish sand, move to a 120 grit. No splinters, and a very attractive surface.

Thompsons Water Seal is a waterproofer. I have no experience or opinion on the product. A solid deck stain would provide more of a surface wear layer and will protect the wood. I have had good results using penetrating semi-transparent oil stains, and my family doesn't have splinters in their feet. But the sanding is what you need to eliminate splinters. Although painting or staining may bind down smaller fibers, without sanding, you will just get painted splinters. Still painful. Use this project as an excuse to buy that 4 X 24 belt sander you always wanted...and use a dust mask to protect against the PT lumber dust.

retisin

08:08PM | 05/28/04
Member Since: 05/19/03
457 lifetime posts
A good solid decking stain will help,c abots makes a good one.Just amke sure it is a decking stain and not just a solid color stain,big difference.

Another thing is to just staple a indoor outdoor carpeting on it,I have seen many people use same stuff used around pools or what is used in boats.

Piffin

02:55PM | 05/30/04
Member Since: 11/06/02
1281 lifetime posts
You've just discovered why many of us refuse o use PT lumber for deck surfaces, only for the framing.

Be very certain to use a dust mask when sanding PT lumber, as it may release the toxic elements into your system and make you feel like you have the flu for awhile. vacumn and keep the kids away from the dust.

Thompson's is a thinned down wax based sealer that is only good for about six months depending on the amt of rain and UV rays it is subjected to. When you consider the total annual cost over fifteen or twenty years, it gets extremely expensive for what it does. Enjoy those TV ads, you paid for them.

Use a solid colour deck stain. It will do more to protect the deck and your feet than others, after you remove the splinters, pf course, and don't power wash wood, unless you really know what you are doing, or you can do more damage than good.

Excellence is its own reward!


lesjes

04:28AM | 04/04/05
Member Since: 04/03/05
1 lifetime posts
Piffin,

thanks for the info on this problem. I am facing the same challenge. What i am curious about is what you would use rather than pressure treated lumber for your deck.

I hope to salvage the splintery mess we inherited for the time being but want to know what you would replace the boards with when we have to do that.

Thanks

Altereagle

04:35PM | 04/07/05
Member Since: 12/27/02
545 lifetime posts
Piffin works out here in CA as well, we just don't use a rough framing material such as pressure treat as a finished product, decks just cost too much... all the other materials are comparable in price, ipe, Brazilian redwood, composites, redwood, cedar... have a look at decks-ca there are few examples there.. or search "decking" you'll see plenty of options.

http://www.altereagle.com/

http://decks-ca.com

http://kingofcrown.com

Alter Eagle Construction & Design

Piffin

04:55PM | 04/07/05
Member Since: 11/06/02
1281 lifetime posts
actually alter E, I am in Miane

I like Ipe lately. have used Trex and Correct deck synthetics, Canberra and Ipe` exotics, Port Orford cedar and CVG fir natural domestics, and Redwood too.

I would take any one of them over any PT on the market for a deck surface, with Ipe` being my current favorite.

Excellence is its own reward!


scout306

08:14PM | 05/22/05
Member Since: 05/22/05
1 lifetime posts
I built a (beautiful if I may say so) deck using port orford cedar and stained it with Bear (**********) Deck Stain (real light color). This did not apply very well even though I left the deck untreated for a few months; came out really splotchy. perhaps a poor application or the wood was still not ready? used deck wash solution to easily remove it late last summer and it has been weatherd 6+ months as only the Pacific Northwest can weather.

QUESTION: what should I put on the wood after I sand and wash? I would really appreciate specifics (brand names..) of penetrating oil finishes (?) - I would really like to NOT change the color.
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