04:04PM | 07/24/04
Member Since: 07/23/04
4 lifetime posts
I plan on putting up a split rail fence. I have looked for alternative materials but have found none in the split rail catagory. My question is when I put the cedar post in the ground how do I keep them from rotting and how do I keep insects away from them. If you know of another material that is visually attractive to use in the split rail fence please tell me.


05:19PM | 07/24/04
You can protect cedar posts by soaking the ends in a bucket filled with copper napthenate (Jasco, Copper Green Wood Preservative and others). It takes time for the chemical to fully penetrate, but a soaking treatment will deter pests and water rot for years. Be sure to do this where you will not stain concrete or kill plants. Copper napthalate stains, smells bad and is toxic. Observe appropriate precautions. You may want to search "copper napthenate MSDS" for more information on this pesticide / fungicide.


08:10PM | 07/25/04
Member Since: 06/19/04
23 lifetime posts
If you are using Red Cedar post they will last about 15 to 20 years (Western Red Cedar). A lot of the non-aromatic cedars are not very decay resistant. If you can smell the Cedar then it is aromatic and will resist decay. Western Red Cedar naturally resists rotting and insects, resulting in a durable, long-lasting fence system. All wood will rote eventually .To extend life of post using PT or Cedar make sure that you have about 2 inches of gravel at the bottom of the post hole. This allows for drainage. The hole should be about 3 feet deep depending on your frost line. Also I would not use concrete in the hole around the Cedar post. Concrete absorbs water, which will lead to a faster decay of the wood.



12:05PM | 10/19/14
Member Since: 10/19/14
6 lifetime posts
Actually the question is age old. As a fence contractor for over thirty years We daily run into this question from homeowners. " We just replaced the fence a few years ago and the fence boards are perfect, can't we just replace the posts and re-use the fence boards and rails?" No because when you take the fence apart the boards split and crack. Yes if you spent many hours you can but the time outweighs the cost of just building a new fence.

Now for years and years I have been seeing the same answers on dozens of forums that are totally incorrect and it baffles me. The same answers just reworded from writers that do not do good research.

Post Rot can not occur underground. Protecting the post at the base is what needs to be done. Two of the four elements which rot needs to live- proliferate and exist can not physically happen underground. One is oxygen and the other is fuel- microbes and fungus.

Rot starts at the base of the post where soil comes in contact with the wood. Moisture and fuel rot the wood at that place where the post exit the earth, as a homeowner think and you will see where the posts break and snap... Now we pull posts out daily and the bottom of the posts still often have the tags on them from the lumber yards.

Yes one thing is accurate. The concrete needs to be crowned (sloped) away from the post so water and soil do not touch the posts. But there is also a problem there. In time with wind and mostly because a contractor or homeowner doesnt seal the concrete properly, water will seep in the tiny gap between the post and concrete and sit in there like a pool. In the long run doing more damage- constant moisture and oxygen and fuel. So the posts rot even faster. The base of the post need to be protected. There is a new product on the market called The Post Collar that solves that problem. Or be certain when you crown the concrete that you actually float the concrete away and form a tight seal. There is only one product on the market that does this, The Post Collar. We are using them on all our fences now.

I am not taking the time to do this to advertise my company. Just taking the time on a Sunday morning to try and reeducate people and writers and to answer this age old question asked and respond to in this article.

Troy Emmett


09:51PM | 04/05/16
wrap your posts in blueskin from the concrete down. concrete is porous, and the posts will always be wet. keep the top of the concrete a few inches above grade, sloped away. seal the concrete-timber joint with thermoplast. this will add on some years, though I can't guarantee it as I'd have to wait twenty years to see if this has worked where I've done it.


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